I sent a Paysan in due to lock issues 3.5 years ago, and I finally received my replacement. This newly produced "CQI" model has the most sever lock stick I've seen on any knife (sometimes requires 2 hands to close).
Spyderco continues to fail at making frame locks. It's also disappointing they don't even bother to test a $920 MSRP knife before sending it to a customer (who's been waiting for their warranty replacement for over 3 years).
Moving forward, I'm not touching any of their "high end" knives. It is unacceptable for them to put out high dollar knives (Slysz Bowie, Drunken, Nirvana, Paysan) with a locking mechanism they're too incompetent, or care too little to get right.
Hi OCD. Just wondering if you have a 2 wk follow up? I’d be interested in your focused time braking in a knife.
On a side note, you reminded me of how much I like the R.I.L. so I got myself another SpydieChef.
Still sticks after 1k openings & closings. Better than when I got it; but still pretty sticky.
My intent is to send it in if the warranty department returns my calls / voicemails & sends me a label. Just left them another.
I sent a Paysan in due to lock issues 3.5 years ago, and I finally received my replacement. This newly produced "CQI" model has the most sever lock stick I've seen on any knife (sometimes requires 2 hands to close).
Spyderco continues to fail at making frame locks. It's also disappointing they don't even bother to test a $920 MSRP knife before sending it to a customer (who's been waiting for their warranty replacement for over 3 years).
Moving forward, I'm not touching any of their "high end" knives. It is unacceptable for them to put out high dollar knives (Slysz Bowie, Drunken, Nirvana, Paysan) with a locking mechanism they're too incompetent, or care too little to get right.
Hi OCD. Just wondering if you have a 2 wk follow up? I’d be interested in your focused time braking in a knife.
On a side note, you reminded me of how much I like the R.I.L. so I got myself another SpydieChef.
Still sticks after 1k openings & closings. Better than when I got it; but still pretty sticky.
My intent is to send it in if the warranty department returns my calls / voicemails & sends me a label. Just left them another.
Have you tried the strictly perpendicular opining with no backward pressure? There is a big difference in how or if it sticks based on my opening method. One handed opening bends the lock bar towards the back
Mule Team Army 001
MNOSD 008
Stable Mules; Z-Max, Z-Wear, Magna Cut, SRS13, Rex 76, Rex T15.
Got mine on Friday. I will say, I had figured reddit and threads like these were just anomalies. And they probably are, but unfortunately I am numbered amongst the anomalies. I am surprised by the degree of lock stick and the lack of lock bar access given the propensity for lock stick apparent in the model. A small cut out, either overall or a crescent like on the swayback would allow for lateral pressure and make overcoming the lock stick much easier. Still trying to decide what to do, as I am up north of the border and we have the sketchiest border restrictions on legal knives, I can't send it down for a look at the mother ship. Will play with it for a while, and hopefully it will get better.
I bought one of these https://usaknifemaker.com/carbidizer-tu ... dizer.html a bit over a decade ago (they were in the low $200s at the time). It's not the cheapest option, but I haven't had to worry about lock stick ever again. For anyone in the hobby the long term, I'd say it's worth making the investment.
When you use two hands and only use perpendicular pressure with no rearward pressure, is it better? Did you clean it ?
I did clean it. It is a little easier with two hands, still a definite "click" when it unlocks, which speaks to the issue at least in part. The design seems to need a lockbar access cutout or some other system to defeat the lockstick on the anecdotal cases of occurrence. Unfortunate, because I was really looking forward to the knife.
A knife like this should not need to be a two handed opener, even when new. Just unfortunate.
When you use two hands and only use perpendicular pressure with no rearward pressure, is it better? Did you clean it ?
I did clean it. It is a little easier with two hands, still a definite "click" when it unlocks, which speaks to the issue at least in part. The design seems to need a lockbar access cutout or some other system to defeat the lockstick on the anecdotal cases of occurrence. Unfortunate, because I was really looking forward to the knife.
A knife like this should not need to be a two handed opener, even when new. Just unfortunate.
Did you read the whole thread? I posted what I was experiencing with mine and you might find that helpful.
Mule Team Army 001
MNOSD 008
Stable Mules; Z-Max, Z-Wear, Magna Cut, SRS13, Rex 76, Rex T15.
The design seems to need a lockbar access cutout or some other system to defeat the lockstick on the anecdotal cases of occurrence
Keep in mind...the design is based on Peter Rassenti's Paysan. When Spyderco does a collaboration model like this they try to stay as close to the designer's enterpretation as possible. The original Spyderco Paysan didn't have a lock stick issue. At least mine doesn't and I've never heard of any other complaints. In fact I believe the reason they did the CQI change is because a few of the locks weren't holding well enough. So now they have the opposite problem. The locks are holding too well. I know it's a pain but I'd keep using it as is. It'll improve over time
Of all the things I've lost I miss my mind the most!
The design seems to need a lockbar access cutout or some other system to defeat the lockstick on the anecdotal cases of occurrence
Keep in mind...the design is based on Peter Rassenti's Paysan. When Spyderco does a collaboration model like this they try to stay as close to the designer's enterpretation as possible. The original Spyderco Paysan didn't have a lock stick issue. At least mine doesn't and I've never heard of any other complaints. In fact I believe the reason they did the CQI change is because a few of the locks weren't holding well enough. So now they have the opposite problem. The locks are holding too well. I know it's a pain but I'd keep using it as is. It'll improve over time
----I know it's a pain but I'd keep using it as is. It'll improve over time----
CODE FOR: KEEP USING IT FOR YEARS AND YEARS AND EVENTUALLY IT WILL WEAR DOWN !!!
The design seems to need a lockbar access cutout or some other system to defeat the lockstick on the anecdotal cases of occurrence
Keep in mind...the design is based on Peter Rassenti's Paysan. When Spyderco does a collaboration model like this they try to stay as close to the designer's enterpretation as possible. The original Spyderco Paysan didn't have a lock stick issue. At least mine doesn't and I've never heard of any other complaints. In fact I believe the reason they did the CQI change is because a few of the locks weren't holding well enough. So now they have the opposite problem. The locks are holding too well. I know it's a pain but I'd keep using it as is. It'll improve over time
With my example, the issue was not the traditional “Lock bar stick” but the lock bar insert barely catching on the edge of the lock bar face exasperated by the slightly off parallel lock bar insert to the lock bar face and rearward pressure thus bending the lock bar. Breaking in will take some time considering the S90V and whatever the lock bar insert is. I cycled mine a counted 1000 times with probably around 200 more that were not counted in my official count for the “1000 cycle challenge”. I would check to see where the lock bar insert and lock bar face are making contact and where you are getting a “Click”. Mine would release fine and then catch the edge. You can tell if you cycle it slowly.
Mule Team Army 001
MNOSD 008
Stable Mules; Z-Max, Z-Wear, Magna Cut, SRS13, Rex 76, Rex T15.
Mine is super smooth now! Just kept working the lock, probably well over 1000 times now. It’s now one of my most carried knives.
Thank you for your response,
I'll continue to try and work it. I tried some sharpie to see if i could alleviate it, but it just wears off on the one location the lock bar insert is making contact. I think the next step is to take the insert out and inspect for burrs and flatness.