CPM 15V Sprint sharpening and performance thread

[kuxxxan]

Hey guys, have anyone used Sentry MTG Marine Tuf-Glide or similar products with the steels like K390 or 15V? (or especially spyderco k390/15v knives)

I have a k390 spydie which has developed an extremely small patina after a year of use, however, I have done nothing with it and, to be honest, I don't care that much on this patina on that particular knife.

However, I'm the one expecting to catch shaman in 15v since it seems to be a perfect K390 successor. The corrosion resistance for 15V from what I have understood so far is similar to the K390, although I find myself more and more thinking of what to do with a 15V blade if I'd go to a more extreme weather condition like humid or seashore places.

Although any ideas on whether the Shaman 15V stonewash will benefit the corrosion resistance? I mean it is still 15V, but from my experience with other steels and a stonewash on them, some of them were more prone to rust than a satin finish

Any suggestions? thanks and shout out from Germany!

[Strauss95]

If you are worried about corrosion, I'd look into a spray coating to protect the blade. A good rust inhibiting spray will work much better than a stonewash etc. Which spray you use will depend on if you need it to be food safe or not. Your best bet for food safe protection would be Frog Lube. I use the "Extreme" liquid version on my blades. If you don't need it to be food safe, the WD40 specialist corrosion inhibitor spray works VERY well.

[Wandering_About]

Hey guys, have anyone used Sentry MTG Marine Tuf-Glide or similar products with the steels like K390 or 15V? (or especially spyderco k390/15v knives)

I have a k390 spydie which has developed an extremely small patina after a year of use, however, I have done nothing with it and, to be honest, I don't care that much on this patina on that particular knife.

However, I'm the one expecting to catch shaman in 15v since it seems to be a perfect K390 successor. The corrosion resistance for 15V from what I have understood so far is similar to the K390, although I find myself more and more thinking of what to do with a 15V blade if I'd go to a more extreme weather condition like humid or seashore places.

Although any ideas on whether the Shaman 15V stonewash will benefit the corrosion resistance? I mean it is still 15V, but from my experience with other steels and a stonewash on them, some of them were more prone to rust than a satin finish

Any suggestions? thanks and shout out from Germany!

So far I've found that 15V and K390 are pretty similar for corrosion resistance. 15V might be slightly better. So if you treat 15V like K390, they should behave quite similarly. I try to avoid very wet/humid environments with my tool steels, but K390 and 15V are at least a bit more forgiving in my experience.

I don't recommend dunking a 15V knife in water, but I did drop mine in a stream once and after cleaning and oiling it when I got back home, it was fine.

[Sharp24/7]

I have both and K390 seems to be slightly more reactive. Got two tiny spots of rust on my Stretch 2 blade. No biggie, but haven’t had any on the 15V.

[electro-static]

I have both and K390 seems to be slightly more reactive. Got two tiny spots of rust on my Stretch 2 blade. No biggie, but haven’t had any on the 15V.

This has been my experience as well.

[vandelay]

I've tried K390, 15V and maxamet. The main difference between them is the blade finish. The 15V manix has a pretty fine polish, so it resists rust well. There are some spots on the manix after a couple months of use. Mostly from sweat, I'd imagine.

[kuxxxan]

Hey Strauss95,Wandering_About, Sharp24/7, electro-static, vandelay

thanks a lot for the sharing, appreciate your experience
Seems 15V will serve me as I thought previously, really can't wait to have a chance to grab my 15V Shaman somewhere in May

[Sharp24/7]

Hey Strauss95,Wandering_About, Sharp24/7, electro-static, vandelay

thanks a lot for the sharing, appreciate your experience
Seems 15V will serve me as I thought previously, really can't wait to have a chance to grab my 15V Shaman somewhere in May

Enjoy, it’s great stuff!

[Strauss95]

Hey Strauss95,Wandering_About, Sharp24/7, electro-static, vandelay

thanks a lot for the sharing, appreciate your experience
Seems 15V will serve me as I thought previously, really can't wait to have a chance to grab my 15V Shaman somewhere in May

Good luck on the hunt, that 15V Shaman is going to be a tough one to snag!!

[Guts]

Reprofiled my PM2 the other day to 15dps. Started off with a coarse diamond plate to remove most of the material and set my apex, then I moved to a full Venev diamond stone progression F240-F400-F800-F1200. Then 1m-0.25m-0.1m gunny juice on a leather strop I made. Could still be better and generally don't go for mirror bevels, but just wanting to keep improving at sharpening. Very pleased with 15V's edge retention. Haven't had to resharpen my Manix 15V yet since reprofiling, just stropping. It just keeps cutting.

[Enactive]

Reprofiled my PM2 the other day to 15dps. Started off with a coarse diamond plate to remove most of the material and set my apex, then I moved to a full Venev diamond stone progression F240-F400-F800-F1200. Then 1m-0.25m-0.1m gunny juice on a leather strop I made. Could still be better and generally don't go for mirror bevels, but just wanting to keep improving at sharpening. Very pleased with 15V's edge retention. Haven't had to resharpen my Manix 15V yet since reprofiling, just stropping. It just keeps cutting.


[img]https://i.imgur.com/nEzXDvT.jpg

Looks great. Nice work.

[sal]

Hi Kuxxan,

Welcome to our forum.

sal

[RustyIron]

Could still be better and generally don't go for mirror bevels, but just wanting to keep improving at sharpening.

No need to apologize, Guts. The edge looks great. The way I look at it, if you can't get a good reflection, then maybe you don't have all that much control over the sharpening process. The interesting thing about the 15V is that it will give a nice edge at low grit or high grit.

[kuxxxan]

Hi Kuxxan,

Welcome to our forum.

sal

Hi Sal, thanks for warm words and greetings from Germany!

[Guts]

Looks great. Nice work.

Thanks. Really starting to enjoy sharpening.

Could still be better and generally don't go for mirror bevels, but just wanting to keep improving at sharpening.

No need to apologize, Guts. The edge looks great. The way I look at it, if you can't get a good reflection, then maybe you don't have all that much control over the sharpening process. The interesting thing about the 15V is that it will give a nice edge at low grit or high grit.

Yeah you're totally right about control. In the past I could always get decently sharp edges and more recently wickedly sharp edges, but could never get a mirror polish on the whole bevel. Past few months been working on my technique and discovered I was definitely using too much pressure on the higher grits. But I still see room for improvement. Eventually I want to get good at freehand since I currently use full size benchstones with a fixed angle jig I made (too used to the Sharpmaker).

I'll have to try a coarse low grit edge on my 15V Manix or PM2 next time I sharpen them, see how I like that edge.

[Cnhensel]

A look at the spines in comparison of a PM2 15V (right) and PM2 S30V (left) behind the edge thickness. Impressive

[lpquick]

Thanks appreciate the photo

[electro-static]

If the 15V manix was a hot sprint, this one would be so hot it’s turned to plasma. I’m not getting too many posts in the alerts thread. I think they sell out before they can reach it.

I am really liking the thinner spine of the 15v pm2

[gunmike1]

I did my second full sharpening on my 15V Manix 2. I laid the angle back to 13 degrees, going down from the 15 degrees I used on my first sharpening. I used an Atoma 140 grit, followed by 400 and 600 grit Atomas. I finished with 5-6 passes per side on 1 micron lapping film at 14 degrees per side. The BESS score kind of shocked me as it was averaging in the mid 50s. I didn’t expect that at all, so that was a pleasant surprise. This time the burr wasn’t hard to get rid of, so it seems like I’m getting past any overheated steel that might have been there after the factory sharpening. Between sharpening I cut up a lot of cardboard with it, and a couple zip ties and some plastic here and there. It still was cutting good but no longer scrape shaving reliably so I decided to sharpen it up. I generally run around 10 degrees per side with a 15 degree microbevel, and assuming I don’t run into and edge damage problems I’ll probably drop it back to 11 degrees per side on the next sharpening. On the Atoma 140 it only takes a couple minutes to lower the angle by 2 degrees, so instead of trying to drop it straight to 10 degrees from the factory 17 degrees and taking a long time it is easy to just take it 2 degrees at a time. Since it is 15V and I’ve never used it before it also makes sense to only go a couple degrees at a time so I can see what angle it starts taking damage at with my use case.

[electro-static]

Update: So far I am finding that it’s a little harder for me to get 15V to be aggressively sharp than it is for Seki K390, it may be that I am only 2 edges into 15V though so it may just be that. I generally bring my edges to 800 grit then strop. I am running at about 16 dps for 15V.