So I just received my Ayoob and while the knife itself is great, the grind is about the worst I’ve ever seen.
I’ve never even considered sending a knife back for replacement because of a bad grind. But this one is so bad it has me questioning even being able to correct it.
So how bad can grind be before it isn’t worth fixing yourself? This one almost looks Ike a chisel grind at the tip. If I were to correct it, what would be the best way?
After looking it over again, I noticed the blade has spotting on it and a strange shape showing around the branding. It doesn’t wash off. Anyone ever seen those before? I know it’s cruwear, but I’ve not even been able to get cruwear to patina at all on my PM2.
I got one with the same issue. Same side too. There were also a few other weird grinds on it.
I don't think it'd be too hard to fix it on a stone. I'm probably going to sharpen mine to give it a more accute bevel anyway.
I got one with the same issue. Same side too. There were also a few other weird grinds on it.
I don't think it'd be too hard to fix it on a stone. I'm probably going to sharpen mine to give it a more accute bevel anyway.
ayoob3.jpg
Thank you for the reply. I was mostly worried about the amount of material I would have to remove to even things up. Especially with it being a saber grind, it seems like it will get thick pretty fast. Are you going to try to even up the tip section, or then entire edge?
If the pe is anything like the pe section on the se model, I understand your concern. I had to remove a lot of steel to get the pe section usable. If I had to guess, it had at least a high 20 degree angle and I took it down to 15.
I got one with the same issue. Same side too. There were also a few other weird grinds on it.
I don't think it'd be too hard to fix it on a stone. I'm probably going to sharpen mine to give it a more accute bevel anyway.
ayoob3.jpg
Thank you for the reply. I was mostly worried about the amount of material I would have to remove to even things up. Especially with it being a saber grind, it seems like it will get thick pretty fast. Are you going to try to even up the tip section, or then entire edge?
I'm going to reprofile the entire edge when I get around to sharpen it. The ayoob seems like it could handle a more accute bevel without being at risk of chipping. I'll have to grind some extra metal off the tip with how wonky that angle is. I'm not the best at reprofiling knife tips, so it'll be a learning experience when I get around to it.
If it bothers you, you should return or exchange it.
Personally, I would try to match the short bevel to the taller bevel and even it out some. Cruwear is one of the nicer steel options to work with.
The surface finish... I don't know if that comes out. My first SE Ayoob had a couple noticeable spots on the blade. I viewed them as "personality" and didn't attempt to remove them. They would have probably driven a true collector crazy though.
I had a very similar situation with the grinds on my Caly 3.5 at the tip from the same maker. It sharpened out just fine. If you are comfortable adjusting it, I would just do that. Otherwise, if it is going to drive you nuts, I would return it.
- Jeff May your feet be warm and dry and your throat warm with whiskey. A knife in hand or in the sock band.
MNOSD Member #0005
One of my Ayoobs had spots exactly like those in the photo above. They came out easily enough with some camellia oil, a cotton cloth and some elbow grease.
On second glance, mine wasn’t spotted up near as much as yours. But it came out with a little pressure applied and just the camellia.
That's a dodgy bevel! I would not be surprised if someone returned it before you got it, so fair enough if you do the same. The Ayoobs may be all sold out after the past weekend though...
If it was me, I would fix it myself. Living on the other side of the planet, it is generally not an option for me to return items, and most of my knives are users. A reprofile is recommended anyway to make it cut better and get rid of the weaker factory edge. Plus you’ll de-wonkify it in the process. Flitz should sort the discolouring out if it is related to corrosion.
Hans Favourite Spydies: Military, PM2, Shaman, UKPK Others: Victorinox Pioneer, CRK L Sebenza 31, CRK L Inkosi
Thank you all for your advice. After thinking on it and reading your responses I decided to keep it and it will be a good learning opportunity for me. I have never had to deal with this before, and feel it will be a valuable lesson in learning to sharpen better.
The spots on the blade do not bother me, I just thought it was strange. So that really isn’t an issue at all.
I appreciate each and every response and thank you all for your time to respond.
When I have time, I will be fixing this, probably using my KME. I’ll read up on the best way and best grits to use before starting, as I want to do this right.
My SE version has the snaggletooth grind which I was going to improve by lowering the angle on the leading PE portion of the blade. But, I decided to just live with it. I'll probably change my mind once I see what R_I has done with his.
"...it costs nothing to be polite." - Winston Churchill
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Thank you all for your advice. After thinking on it and reading your responses I decided to keep it and it will be a good learning opportunity for me. I have never had to deal with this before, and feel it will be a valuable lesson in learning to sharpen better.
The spots on the blade do not bother me, I just thought it was strange. So that really isn’t an issue at all.
I appreciate each and every response and thank you all for your time to respond.
When I have time, I will be fixing this, probably using my KME. I’ll read up on the best way and best grits to use before starting, as I want to do this right.
Awesome! My knives that have uneven bevels are a good time for learning. I use a Hapstone R2 for my sharpening sessions and definitely used it with my 2 Ayoobs.
I was going to recommend trying Barkeepers Friend, but Basko00's idea sounds safer.
I was sharpening my PE as the bevel is a little off on the clip side and saw there was still some spotting on the blade. More than I realized. The Camilla oil didn’t take it all off. A very application of Flitz did the job. I don’t know if Barkeeper’s friend is less abrasive or more.
If the primary grind is uneven though, making it even on the secondary bevel will offcenter the edge
What would be the options if that is the case? And what would be the best way to check for this?
You could have the primary grind reground.
There will always be a little difference on a production knife. At least that’s what I have found. Personally, I just reprofile the edge bevel to the angle I want and make sure I get a burr on both sides, then go through my stone progression. I don’t let the different size of the edge bevel bother me.
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