Tri-Angle Sharpmaker Novice

cockroachfarm · #1

Although I have started collecting knives on a serious level only recently, I have always been able to create a decent edge on a stone. A couple of days ago I purchased a Tri-Angle Sharpmaker (on recommendation of several senior BladeForums members, and because the simplicity of the "vertical hold" appeals to me). I decided to use a CRKT Lightfoor Urban Shark as my "practice" knife for mastering the Tri-Angle. Well, I must be missing something - not only can I NOT get that "hair-poppin'" sharpness that the oldtimers boast about, I can't get ANY kind of an edge! Before I grind the blade of this poor, defenseless knife down to a nub can anyone give me a hint what I might be missing? There's no way I will touch it with a Spyderco before I solve my problem. BTW, yes I read the manual and watched the video (very well done, IMO) and I'm a nitpicker and obsessive-compulsive to the nth degree and I can't figure out what the problem is? The Tri-Angle looks idiot-proof - but THIS idiot must have found an exception. Help!!! (before I become the proud owner of the world's first Lightfoot Urban Shark "Oyster Knife"!

Tigertooth · #2

Do you have the video?
If you do, watch it I think that can help you a lot it did for my.

Omar

Clay Kesting · #3

It sounds as though the original edge of the CRKT may have been ground with an included angle of greater that 40 degrees. If this is so, it can take an awfully long time to reprofile the edge with the grey stones (Where are those diamond stones <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle>). Sal's usual suggestion is to examine the edge with a magnifying glass or jeweller's loupe to see what is happening. Why don't you try sharpening a Spydie? They come with a bevel less than 40 degrees and usually don't need reprofiling.

Clay

Don't worry that the world might end tomorrow, in Australia it's tomorrow already.

Joe Talmadge · #4

I use a different sharpening technique on the Sharpmaker than Sal recommends. I would say my technique is better than Sal's, but, unfortunately for me, there are people who have reported they had better success with Sal's technique than mine. There are also plenty of people who have said they've had better success with my technique. Since you're not having any luck with Sal's so far, maybe you'd like to try another approach? If so, you can see my description at:

http://www.knifeforums.com/ubb/Forum10/HTML/000044.html

If you don't want to try my technique, I can still help you. Take a black magic marker, and mark the very edge of your Urban Shark. Now take a few strokes on the Sharpmaker. Is the magic marker ground off only at the very top? If so, that means the Urban Shark has an edge angle that's bigger than the Sharpmaker's angle. You won't see any positive results at all until you re-grind the Urban Shark's edge down to one of the Sharpmaker's preset angles. Since reprofiling can take a long time, you might just keep grinding it on the 20-degree slots this time, using the coarsest hones. Use the magic marker to see how close you're getting. Next time around, you can re-profile it all the way down to 15-degrees if you want really outrageous cutting performance.

Once the reprofiling is done, I assure you, future sharpenings will go quick and easy.

Joe

cockroachfarm · #5

Thanks for the advice everyone. I have a feeling it is the angle of the original edge that is creating the problem for me. I'll keep trying.

Mancer · #6

I just hope that sharpmaker is easy to use and does the job properly, Ive just ordered one for sharpening my 2 Gerbers (G/B and Mark II) which have a 30 degree edge (15 by 15), if any of you have strong feelings against this sharpening device please say so now before I destroy one of my babies and have to do serious bodily harm to spyderco with the other <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle>

seeya

MaNcEr

cockroachfarm · #7

MaNcEr, please don't let my experience dissuade you from buying the Sharpmaker. The thinking behind it makes ABSOLUTE sense. I certainly haven't given up on mine - I believe it is the original angle on the knife that is giving me a problem. And watch the video - it is superb! One of the best "instructional" videos I have ever seen (and I have written and produced several such videos).

Holger

Joe Talmadge · #8

The Sharpmaker is a fantastic device. The only issue is that the first time you sharpen, you might have to reprofile a bit. By using the magic marker trick that I described above, you'll be able to gauge your progress without getting impatient, hopefully. Many knives won't need reprofiling, but even the ones that do will sharpen like magic once you've done the initial job.

I went out and bought an x-coarse DMT hone specifically for the reprofiling, because I do get impatient. I lean the DMT hone up against the Spyderco stones, so it's at exactly the same angle. The x-coarse DMT cuts a lot of metal very fast, so use it only for reprofiling -- but it does reprofile probably a good 10x faster than Spyderco's coarse gray stones.

Also, let me put in another vote for the burr-method of sharpening, versus the Spyderco standard method. By all means try both! But give mine a try if you are at all unsatisfied with Spyderco's. And give Spyderco's a try if you're at all unsatisfied with mine. BTW, the burr method is the method used by most (actually, I'm pretty sure all) knifemakers.

Joe

mundele · #9

Joe,
I read your 'procedure' for using the sharpmaker and I have a question. Is the first step, where you use the 15 degree stones first, is that just rebeveling? Does that need to be done everytime you sharpen?

Thanks for the tip about removing the burr. that's something I've had trouble with...

--Matt

Joe Talmadge · #10

The 15-degree angle isn't just rebevelling. I call them "thinning bevels" (Spyderco calls them back-bevels). The 15-degree bevels just behind the working edge thin out the edge and considerably add to performance. Not only that, but because the edge is thinner, it's easier to sharpen as time goes by. As a result, I suggest re-grinding your 15-degree bevels every time you sharpen. That way performance and ease-of-sharpening remain consistent.

My suggestion is, if you sharpen your knife with the 15/20 edge I recommend, and you don't see any chipping or edge weakness, the next time you might consider taking the 15-degree bevels all the way to the burr.

Joe

cockroachfarm · #11

Thanks, Joe, for the tip about the DMT hone placed at the same angle as the Tri-Angle stones. I'm going to go out this afternoon to buy one!

#12

Hi Holger. Sorry you are having trouble. My suggeston (in addition to others mentioned) would be to ue the step 1 (corner of gray stone) on the CRKT model until it will easily cut paper. I believe you are having a problem with the original bevel on the edge of the CRKT pieces. In addition, the corner of the gray stone will wear slightly with use, which increaes the speed of metal removal considerably. Make sure you are holding the blade perpendicular to the table (about 18" back from the tool to get a better perspective).

sal

Mancer · #13

Ok Ive got it, Im used to it now and can do it with my eyes closed, the thing I was doing wrong is firstly, I was sitting, stand over it!!!, secondly start of very slow and check that the stones arnt hogged with metal, take it slow and speed up as you go along.
Also slice down as in twist your wrist vertically, and cut right until the tip(do it slowly if you have to, makes no difference.)
And lastly dont try and hack though the stones, it only needs moderate-light pressure to work.

Seeya

MaNcEr

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