Seki City models disappointing

[Joshuaroyce]

Here to say my experience with seki city spydercos has been very disappointing. I was wondering if anyone else experienced the same. I sent my police 4 k390 into warranty because the back lock was not sitting flush with the blade during open position. This was off enough for me to not feel safe using the knife and send to warranty. I’m talking 1-2 mm crooked. I also notice this with other back lock seki city models like the delica and endura. I received a dragonfly 2 S30V version that came literally drowning in oil with extremely sticky action. So I loosen the pivot to smooth it out but the screw practically is falling out for it to have a a smooth 1 handed opening. So I have to tighten the pivot down to the point it becomes a 2 handed opening back lock. Is there anyone checking to see if seki city is up to certain standards? This is a bummer and Makes me only want to buy the Taichung models

[Skar]

Haven't had this experience.
I've had two off center that I was able to repair myself.

Did you purchase from a a reputable source ?

[steelcity16]

I have 50+ Seki models and have probably owned 100+ at one point or another. I have only had one that I returned, and that was for an uneven grind. I have never had any other issues. Seki is my favorite maker and it has to be some special (the Dodo, Micarta models, etc) for me to buy any other makers these days.

[z1r]

I have over 60 Spydercos. I've only sent one in for warranty repair, a Byrd Hawkbill that had side to side blade play as well as lock rock. Got it back in the same condition I sent it in with. To be fair, it was slightly improved. It's a $30 knife and compares to some other $30 knives in terms of function, like say, a Ka-Bar Dozier folding hunter. Both have lock rock.

The vast majority of my Spyderco's are Seki models including my favorite K390 Endela. No issues with the back lock, blade play, or lock rock. That's not to say it won't or can't happen but that's a pretty good track record IMO.

[phaust]

Not sure if it's related but to add a data point, only my newer Seki models have lock bars that don't travel on the lock tang evenly through the action. It's clear from where it displaces lube that at least one of the tang and lock bar isn't flat. The lock bar leaves a squiggle back and forth as it moves along the tang.

In contrast, my older Seki productions have the full face of the lock bar in contact with the tang through the entire movement.

Edit: These purchases were through 2021 and up to a couple months ago. Nothing before that has the issue.

[James Y]

I own more Spyderco Seki models than from any other maker of Spyderco knives. Not one of my knives has had any of the issues in the OP.

I'm not saying these things don't happen, just that I own dozens of Seki knives and haven't experienced any of that myself.

I have read about issues some people were having with their new LC200N Pacific Salts, though, which made me decide not to buy one.

Jim

[ZrowsN1s]

I own 31 Seki models from 2016 to present. Bought my last one 2 weeks ago and number 32 is in the mail.

I've definitely got a few that were super oily, but never any issues like yours. No pivot, screw, or lock issues. The oil is so they don't rust in shipping. When I get a new knife I clean it with 99% isopropyl alcohol blow out the pivot and lock area with compressed air, clean all the nooks and crannies with a Flattened Qtip, microfiber swab, or folded paper towel, then oil the pivot with KPL and the lock track with KPL heavy. Usually smooths out any gritty or stiff action.

Conversely you could just wipe it off with a rag or paper towels and just start using it and it would break in after a week or two.

[JSumm]

I have more Seki lightweights then anything else. I have experienced very loose pivots. Loose enough to where your fingernail can turn them. I just removed, added loctite, tighten just beyond where I like it, let it sit for 24 hours and it has solved that issue everytime for me.

I just recently bought a Pac Salt LC200N green monster. It has displaced all my other Sekis, and I don't see getting anything else in the near future. The action and lockup are that good.

[Wandering_About]

I have personally moved away from Seki City models lately... too many issues. Most small, but I'm tired of super loose screws, inconsistent locks, and general fit and finish that I'd also call inconsistent. It would be nice if they could actually fix the lock rock that we just put up with on the Seki back lock models for ever increasing prices.

Fortunately, for a small working FRN knife the Native is there for me.

[Giygas]

I don't know if I've been explicitly disappointed by seki city models, but I've come to accept they just aren't as good f&f wise as the ones made in other places.

I'm not sure if I actively avoid them, or just aren't very interested in what is made there. My k390 p4lw has a pretty severe uneven grind, but it's forgiveable since it has a fantastic HT. The only knife I've ever returned was a G10 dallara 3 because each g10 slab was a different thickness and the hole for the bbl was about 20% larger on one side than the other. My Q-ball is basically perfect, though.

This isnt meant to bash Spydercos, far from it. They consistently have the best f&f out of any maker at any price. I just don't buy many of their japanese models, so I guess it just makes the issues I've experienced with them stand out more.

[Ramonade]

I didn't own any Seki Spydercos at first. Only Golden and Taïchung.
Then I bought the Endura 4 in ZDP-189. Excellent blade and all, but the lock rock was a thing I had never encountered on a Spyderco mid backlock, since I only owned N5s and a Chap' before that. Lock rock exists on every backlocks, cause It wouldn't be able to lock otherwise, but being used to imperceptible lock rock can produce high expectations.

Then you learn that these knives (N5, Chief, Chap...) are special, and that the type of lock isn't all that important compared to how it was designed. I now have many Seki-made Spydercos, and I am happy I did buy more ! None of the next ones had significant lock rock.

As far as lockbars sticking out, I've seen it on my N5 S90V in carbon fiber. From my experience, it has always been less or equal to 1mm maximum. "Worst" I own is also the most recent, a Manbug. Only one I find it problematic on since it cuts my finger when using. I'll certainly try to reshape the top of the lockbar and it'll be ok. 30€ for a new (at a dealer) Manbug was a really good price, and I'm pleased with everything else (no lock rock xD). I spine-wacked it for good mesure, since the lockbar only needs minimal pressure to unlock the blade. Seems to hold well enough to use without fear.

[TkoK83Spy]

Compared to Taichung and Golden, Seki is definitely a distant 3rd in quality. I never over analyze my knives, but flaws are much easier to detect in a Seki compared to the others in my own experiences.

[MournfulCongregant]

I have ten Japanese Spydercos: two Enduras and an Endura trainer, two Matriarch 2s, a Lil Matriarch, an older Civilian and Snap-It, a Cricket, and a Dragonfly, and I have no cause for complaint on any of them, they are all wonderful. My oldest Spydie backlock, a G-2 Stainless Snap-It, happens to also be the strongest-feeling backlock I have by them - I am sure they CQI'd since then, but man, I am telling you, it feels so good and strong when I pop it open. The snap it makes is authoritative.

How do I put this, then? The Seki City knives are A-OK, but the American and Taiwanese knives are just on another level. There is absolutely nothing WRONG with any of the Japanese knives, the US/Thai ones are just even nicer in terms of fit, finish, all of that. I feel the fact that 90% of my Japanese knives are backlock and the others are comp lock, etc, has something to do with that. They just have a more premium feel to them than an FRN backlock, but I've had no problems in the blade grind, fit and finish, screws, of my Japanese Spydercos. No blade play, nothing.

My Endura trainer is made just like an Endura, and I beat it up, drop it on the floor, it gets thrown across the room, hit on stuff, all of that. When it developed a little blade play, it fixed instantaneously with a twist of a Torx. Also, easiest to disassemble and re-assemble, very easy compared to a comp lock. No disrespect to those who do have issues with their Seki knife, just wanted to give my experience too, in case prospective buyers are reading. Japanese knives do seem like the most of a tossup compared to the big three places of manufacture, USA, Taiwan and Japan.

[cabfrank]

Sekis are the majority of what I own. There will be more. I don't find them disappointing in any way. That said, I do understand that a little better fit/finish/QC is something to be desired, based on what I have read about the newer Pac Salt LC200N and Stretch XL, for example.

[VooDooChild]

I didn't own any Seki Spydercos at first. Only Golden and Taïchung.
Then I bought the Endura 4 in ZDP-189. Excellent blade and all, but the lock rock was a thing I had never encountered on a Spyderco mid backlock, since I only owned N5s and a Chap' before that. Lock rock exists on every backlocks, cause It wouldn't be able to lock otherwise, but being used to imperceptible lock rock can produce high expectations.

Then you learn that these knives (N5, Chief, Chap...) are special, and that the type of lock isn't all that important compared to how it was designed. I now have many Seki-made Spydercos, and I am happy I did buy more ! None of the next ones had significant lock rock.

As far as lockbars sticking out, I've seen it on my N5 S90V in carbon fiber. From my experience, it has always been less or equal to 1mm maximum. "Worst" I own is also the most recent, a Manbug. Only one I find it problematic on since it cuts my finger when using. I'll certainly try to reshape the top of the lockbar and it'll be ok. 30€ for a new (at a dealer) Manbug was a really good price, and I'm pleased with everything else (no lock rock xD). I spine-wacked it for good mesure, since the lockbar only needs minimal pressure to unlock the blade. Seems to hold well enough to use without fear.

I had a manbug where the lock wouldnt fully engage and it would slip out of the locked position if I pushed on the thumb ramp hard enough. And it still didnt look as bad as the pics of yours.

A quick disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly fixed it.

[spydergoat]

You've gotta think bad knives from Seki are the very rare exception, otherwise they wouldn't have the incredible longevity and popularity for decades. I am carrying a 11 year old Endura today and it never had a single issue. Maybe it's more disappointing now on the occasional issue coming up, if you paid a premium for a K390 or an exclusive. But where else are you getting a huge blade of supersteel with great design/ geometry for that price with an amazing warranty. No freaking where. You can get 2 of 3 maybe from some brands.

[Ramonade]

I didn't own any Seki Spydercos at first. Only Golden and Taïchung.
Then I bought the Endura 4 in ZDP-189. Excellent blade and all, but the lock rock was a thing I had never encountered on a Spyderco mid backlock, since I only owned N5s and a Chap' before that. Lock rock exists on every backlocks, cause It wouldn't be able to lock otherwise, but being used to imperceptible lock rock can produce high expectations.

Then you learn that these knives (N5, Chief, Chap...) are special, and that the type of lock isn't all that important compared to how it was designed. I now have many Seki-made Spydercos, and I am happy I did buy more ! None of the next ones had significant lock rock.

As far as lockbars sticking out, I've seen it on my N5 S90V in carbon fiber. From my experience, it has always been less or equal to 1mm maximum. "Worst" I own is also the most recent, a Manbug. Only one I find it problematic on since it cuts my finger when using. I'll certainly try to reshape the top of the lockbar and it'll be ok. 30€ for a new (at a dealer) Manbug was a really good price, and I'm pleased with everything else (no lock rock xD). I spine-wacked it for good mesure, since the lockbar only needs minimal pressure to unlock the blade. Seems to hold well enough to use without fear.

I had a manbug where the lock wouldnt fully engage and it would slip out of the locked position if I pushed on the thumb ramp hard enough. And it still didnt look as bad as the pics of yours.

A quick disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly fixed it.

Oh, that's kind scary for the 4 other fingers. I've already disassembled it and it didn't change anything. The lock interface in the blade tang seemed a bit weird to me, I think the slot isn't deep enough. But I never owned any Manbug so it is hard to compare ^^

[WRB]

The fit and finish of the few Seki knives I've purchased recently has been noticeably worse than any of my Golden or Taichung models. It's enough that I plan to only buy from Golden and Taichung going forward (unless something changes). If the prices are gonna keep going up I expect the quality to match.

[Soanso McMasters]

Between my wife, son, and I, we are pushing 40 Spydercos. There is a noticeable difference between Seki quality/consistency and that of Golden and Taichung. I still buy Seki knives if they offer something I can’t get otherwise and I just keep my expectations a bit lower.

That’s fine for FRN knives I’m going to beat on, but I was pretty disappointed in my Caly 3.5. That’s a lot of money for a knife to have fit and finish issues, and it’s supposed to be “premium” so I sent it back. Which is a shame because the ergos, blade shape, and overall design are awesome on it.

[James Y]

I've heard that, generally speaking, the younger generation in Japan have little to no interest in continuing the business of making/manufacturing knives. Maybe that has something to do with the slip in Seki quality.

I will say, however, that I've personally had no such problems on my Seki knives.

Jim