Lesson learned

[olywa]

I recently picked up an Endura 4 in S30V for a great price. I hedged about it a bit because those light teal scales didn't appeal to me at all. Since I had an orange Endura in VG-10 I thought I'd do a simple blade swap. I reviewed a couple of Youtube vids before starting and determined I'd follow Nick Shabazz's method. It was pretty straightforward until I tried holding the backspring in place and getting the lockbar pivot pin inserted. I was pretty frustrated until I grabbed a small clamp out of my shop to hold things in place. Bingo, worked like a champ.

Unfortunately, I ended up with a ton of vertical blade play, which was totally unacceptable. Where had I messed up? I had only swapped the blades and I should have swapped the blades and the lockbars together as a set. I thought a bit about whether to swap the lockbar spring as well but decided not to. End result is both knives have zero vertical or lateral play and I now have a beautiful orange S30V Endura 4 for myself, and a teal VG-10 Endura 4 that I can gift to a family member this Christmas. Worth noting that though the differences aren't striking, I believe that my 12+ year old orange Endura has a little better build quality and tolerances.

Anyway, just thought I'd give a brief description of my experience in case anyone can learn from my mistake.

[bearrowland]

Thanks for your post! I've never had the courage to disassemble any of mine. I have very poor luck when it comes to reassembly.

[Wartstein]

Thanks for your post! I've never had the courage to disassemble any of mine. I have very poor luck when it comes to reassembly.

I have always been using that "Nick Shabbaz method" Olywa talks about when reassembling Spyderco backlock knives.
Actually long before I ever saw a Nick Shabbaz vid and it is the only method I´ve ever tried (don´t know any other) - but it works very well for me, I don´t need a clamp for it like Olywa (though admittedly the last step - inserting the lockbar - is the trickiest one (or even the only step at all that is a bit tricky))

See Nicks vid at about minute 10. https://youtu.be/8dZqL41zqts&t=655s
This is how I always did and do it too.

[olywa]

Yeah, my hand dexterity just ain't what it used to be. I'm not shy about using every mechanical advantage available to me. I'm insanely jealous of those middle-finger spydie-flick show-offs. My attempts at that are beyond pathetic.

[bearrowland]

Thanks Wartstein

[Wartstein]

Yeah, my hand dexterity just ain't what it used to be. I'm not shy about using every mechanical advantage available to me. I'm insanely jealous of those middle-finger spydie-flick show-offs. My attempts at that are beyond pathetic.

Only wise to use everything that helps! As said: Inserting the lockbar at the end of the reassembly IS a bit tricky indeed, and takes me two or three attempts every time I do it too (having three instead of two hands would be nice then.. )

And I do probably have fingers that are a bit above average when it comes to both strength and dexterity (and yes, I do the "middle (and other) finger(s) spydie flick" with my lockback knives, but never as a show off. This would feel rather silly... )

/ ... I feel like I´ve said some stuff above that will me get "bloked", if Alex/Bloke happens to read this... )

[Wartstein]

Thanks Wartstein

I am not entirely sure if I should recommend that you try this method... As said, all steps are really, really easy, except inserting the lockbar in the end. It works well for me, but obviously not for everyone.
Perhaps Olywa could share how exactly he uses the clamp to make that step easier, and/or you try first with a knife you don´t carry all the time.

That said: I almost never find it actually necessary or mandatory to disassemble my Spyderco backlock knives. Did it the first time just to understand the mechanics and to be sure I could do it, IF necessary, but then just very few times for cleaning/oiling (though the knives would not actually have really needed that) and one time when my Endela had somewhat gritty action and I was searching for what was causing that.

[JSumm]

/ ... I feel like I´ve said some stuff above that will me get "bloked", if Alex/Bloke happens to read this... )

This had me laughing. He is always watching.

I have done both methods of reassembly on my lockbacks. I do prefer the lockbar last method. I feel like I always have to relearn it every time I attempt it. I try to rarely attempt it. The last time I attempted it was with my K390 Endela. I did not align the little plastic tip on the backspacer that goes into the liners right behind the spring. I guess it is used to align the backspacer with the liners. I had all kind of gaps around the backspacer. I had to take it all apart and start over. Previously, I had never noticed that part.

[olywa]

I am very pleased with how my blade swap turned out. I've disassembled other Spydies in the past but this was the first time on an FRN Endura. I think that the FRN backspacer is sort of the weak link in this design. Not really a problem unless you're an inveterate tinkerer like myself. My Grandpa once told me that I seemed to have a problem leaving well enough alone. I couldn't argue the point...

I see that there are metal, G10, and carbon fiber after-market backspacers available for the Delica but not so much for the Endura.

[Ramonade]

I found some carbon fiber backspacers for the Endura wandering online once. But yes, we see those less often than for the ever popular Delica.

[Superflex]

I found the lockbar last method to be a PITA, requiring three hands (or a clamp) to hold the lockbar with pressure on the spring and inserting the pin.
I assemble in the reverse order I disassemble. It's not rocket science.
Opinions on youtube are like a$$holes. Everyone has one and most stink.

[Wartstein]

I found the lockbar last method to be a PITA, requiring three hands (or a clamp) to hold the lockbar with pressure on the spring and inserting the pin.
I assemble in the reverse order I disassemble. It's not rocket science.
Opinions on youtube are like a$$holes. Everyone has one and most stink.

Probably depends on what one is used too.
I find the lockbar last method really not that hard, takes me just two or three tries (so about 5 seconds) to insert the pin.
JSumm said in his post he tried both methods and prefers the lockbar last.
(and I actually used this method long before I saw any video about re-assembly on youtube... )

[JSumm]

I found the lockbar last method to be a PITA, requiring three hands (or a clamp) to hold the lockbar with pressure on the spring and inserting the pin.
I assemble in the reverse order I disassemble. It's not rocket science.
Opinions on youtube are like a$$holes. Everyone has one and most stink.

Probably depends on what one is used too.
I find the lockbar last method really not that hard, takes me just two or three tries (so about 5 seconds) to insert the pin.
JSumm said in his post he tried both methods and prefers the lockbar last.
(and I actually used this method long before I saw any video about re-assembly on youtube... )

Assembling in reverse order is fine. I just had the spring shoot across the room on me a couple of times. Felt like I should be wearing safety glasses when doing it since I was hyper focused like I was disarming a bomb with my face right over it and my Dad over my shoulder saying "You are going to break it Jeff." So I tried the lockbar last method. No safety glasses required. There is definitely a touch to it where you do not need to clamp it. Although if you have 3 hands, it will be a little easier.

[JSumm]

I think what I typically do is reach around the back and have one finger at the top of the lockbar and one finger pressing down at the cutout. Have the screw insert ready with the other hand.

[JSumm]

So dissembled one of my Endelas today. Definitely prefer the lock bar last method. Couldn't take a video without 4 hands but the picture below shows how I held the knife flat on the table to insert the lock bar last. Flat on the table, press in the lock bar with the blade locked in or fully extended, then start to slide in the screw insert. Once started, you can take both hands and squeeze in the lock bar while pressing on the table to slide the insert in. Wasn't that bad this time. Just make sure both of those points on the backspacer are seated in the liners or you will be taking it back apart.

[tangent]

Admittedly, I have not read all the posts, but the short answer is yes, always swap blades and lock bars. I’ve had the best results when doing this.

[JSumm]

Here are some progression pics of inserting the lock bar last.




I then put one finger in the spydie hole after inserting the screw insert in the back. Thumb on the other side pushing into the knife. Table holding the screw insert on the back. I have found if the blade is straight/locked, it is easier to push the lock bar down into the handle. With the table as my third hand, a little pressure all around and it pops back into place.



If you blink 3 times and say "Lucky Charms," a Leprechaun may appear.

[Bloke]

Just wrap some string or use a small cable tie around scales and lock bar indent. That frees one hand and makes lining up the lock bar pivot pin easy to insert.

Just my AU$0.02c worth.

[VashHash]

Just wrap some string or use a small cable tie around scales and lock bar indent. That frees one hand and makes lining up the lock bar pivot pin easy to insert.

Just my AU$0.02c worth.

That's the method I use when taking apart back locks.

[Soanso McMasters]

I assume these disassemble and reassemble like the Delica. About the fourth or fifth time I did it I finally figured out where to push the lock bar in to have it centered after applying pressure, and then the pin goes in easily. The first few times I said a few choice words for sure…