H1 vs LC200N

Discuss Spyderco's products and history.

Which do you prefer, H1 or LC200N?

I prefer H1
10
12%
I prefer LC200N
48
58%
I like them both the same amount
22
27%
I don't like either of these steels
3
4%
 
Total votes: 83

vivi
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H1 vs LC200N

#1

Post by vivi »

How do you feel about H1 vs LC200N?

What experiences are you drawing on to come to your conclusions?

Would either steel work in an EDC capacity for you, or do you find they have limitations that make you avoid carrying them?

--------------------------------------------

I was excited when LC200N was new to the Spyderco line-up, as it sounded like a clear upgrade to H1. Having used both steels for years, I no longer feel that's the case.

I've used H1 since it was introduced into Spydercos line-up. I've used LC200N since the Siren, Waterway and Pacific Salts have come out in the steel. I've used PE and SE in both steels with factory edges and reprofiled to thinner angles.

Here's how I'd break them down:

Corrosion resistance - Both have been 100% corrosion proof for me so far, which is a feat for any steel. I can spot typical stainless steels like VG10 in a matter of hours in the summer.

Edge Holding - Not as much difference as I expected to be honest. I'd give LC a slight edge in PE, and H1 an edge in SE. LC seems harder at the apex in PE and deforms less doing things like chopping food on a hard plastic cutting board. H1 seems to be more stable at the very thing angles SE are ground at. Both steels will hold an edge much longer in PE with a coarse finish in the 100-400 grit range, but H1 in particular does a lot better with that finish. Neither will hold shaving sharpness for a long time for me given a high polish.

Price - H1 knives are a bit cheaper.

Toughness - Both steels are very tough. Based on the fracturing I saw with SE LC, I'd have to imagine H1 has the edge here. Both are tough enough to carve hardwoods and slice up dirty double wall cardboard with no edge damage after reprofiling the PE versions to about 10 degrees per side. I have snapped the very tip (1mm or less) of LC knives while I've only ever bent the very tips of H1 knives. While LC is very tough, H1 seems a step above it.

Sharpening response - H1 has always been one of the easiest steels to sharpen for me, in both PE and SE. I love the sharpening response I get from it. The only bad thing I could say is PE is a bit prone to forming a large bur if care isn't taken to use very light strokes.

LC has been more of a mixed bag. PE it takes a great edge usually, though like H1 the polished finish edge holding didn't impress me. I found it difficult getting a nice, sharp apex on my Siren until I reprofiled it. LC takes a shaving sharp apex about as easily as anything else. In SE I had fracturing issues when reprofiling my SE to 15 degrees, something I've never seen in H1, so I have to take marks for that. It takes a sharp edge in SE though.

--------------------------------------------

Both are great steels that are pretty much perfect as EDC knives for me, but I give H1 a slight edge.

How do they stack up in your eyes?
:unicorn
Ric
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Re: H1 vs LC200N

#2

Post by Ric »

Overall I prefer LC200N.

I hate H1 in PE - never again.
Dulls quick and impossible to resharpen on the sharpmaker.
In SE it’s very nice.
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ladybug93
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Re: H1 vs LC200N

#3

Post by ladybug93 »

this is a tough question to answer... i've tried multiple times here on the forum. for me, it's a little more complicated to answer than the choices available in the poll.

i prefer spyderedge when it comes to marine environments and for emergency uses. for me, that means i always prefer to have at least a spyderedge knife on me and i prefer it to be as maintenance free as possible. this is why i love the salt series.

i do like the ability to carry a plain edge salt knife as well, but i find it less necessary for my uses. i often carry a plain edge knife that is not a salt.

my experience with salt models:
pacific salt se h1 - this knife brought me back to spyderco when i moved to hawaii. i carry it iwb most days, even when working out or swimming. it is an excellent knife and i've had zero issues with it, aside from not making it into the calendar.
native salt pe lc200n - i bought this to have a pe salt to go along with my pac salt. i have had some minor rust show up on the edge of this one, but only tiny spots that haven't affected anything. initially, i was very impressed with the edge retention, but it's at least a little below s30v in my experience.
ladybug hawkbill se h1 - this was solely to keep in my wallet pouch as an always there se h1 blade with a hawkbill. i always have it paired with a victorinox rambler in my wallet, along with a mini bic and nitecore tini.
caribbean sheepsfoot se lc200n - i got this one because i love the compression lock and wanted to check out se lc200n, especially with the more shallow grind pattern. i wasn't sure this would replace my pac salt, but i was excited to try it. turns out, if i'm only going to carry one knife now, it's this one. the ffg and great serrations on the caribbean make for an excellent edc choice. i still like to carry two knives, but i'm perfectly content to only carry this one. i did experience some rolling on the teeth that i've never had with h1, but nothing too terrible.
spydiechef pe lc200n - newest acquisition... i haven't used it yet. my wife confiscated it for my stocking when it arrived. i'm anticipating it will be similar to my native salt, but hopefully slicier.

in my experience, se h1 just edges out se lc200n, but i like both. i don't have any pe h1 experience, but i'm fine with pe lc200n. given that i like to carry se for emergencies, i do prefer h1 because it is tougher and the hollow grind makes for a more robust blade all the way to the tip. clearly, i like both and haven't been put off of either though. i've landed on pe lc200n and se h1, even though i also carry se lc200n often. i guess i basically like them equally, but differently.
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current collection:
C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
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Re: H1 vs LC200N

#4

Post by The Meat man »

I prefer LC200N. In my experience it holds an edge longer than H-1. It also (for me) seems to deburr more easily in sharpening (although both steels are ridiculously easy to sharpen.) Plus, it can be full-flat ground.

I like H-1 a lot, it's just that I've never found it to have the magical edge retention that lots of other folks experience. Not sure what has been different for me but there it is. It's not terrible by any means, just about average. I have also found that H-1 damages more easily at thin angles than LC200N or VG-10.

But again, H-1 is a great steel that performs adequately for most of my uses, and my Pacific Salt SE has been and still is one of my favorite Spyderco knives. I'll also add that even though I prefer LC200N, I would be sorry to see H-1 disappear from the lineup.
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Evil D
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Re: H1 vs LC200N

#5

Post by Evil D »

For me it's a debate that just doesn't add up to any advantage that outweighs the available blade grind options. If H1 were available in FFG this would be a much hotter debate for me, otherwise the two are close enough in every other aspect that I'll go with LC200N if it's an option, but I certainly wouldn't not buy a knife because it only came in H1, and H1 is still one of my favorites.
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Re: H1 vs LC200N

#6

Post by SpyderLine »

I only have experience with these two steels in PE. With that being said I strongly prefer LC200N over H1. I find it holds an edge quite a bit longer than H1. I can also get LC200N sticky sharp on my Sharpmaker, where ad I can only get H1 fairly sharp. This could however be completely due to operator error.
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ladybug93
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Re: H1 vs LC200N

#7

Post by ladybug93 »

The Meat man wrote:
Sun Nov 28, 2021 4:55 pm
I'll also add that even though I prefer LC200N, I would be sorry to see H-1 disappear from the lineup.
this is an important point here. i really love my h1 knives and wouldn't like them as much in ffg lc200n. i'd hate to see h1 disappear.
keep your knife sharp and your focus sharper.
current collection:
C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
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Re: H1 vs LC200N

#8

Post by JRinFL »

Option 3 was the closest fit for me. LB93 is correct, once you think about it gets more complicated. Before vivi showed me the way of a thinned out PE H1 blade, LC200N would have been my far ahead top choice. Now, they’re pretty close to neck and neck.
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Re: H1 vs LC200N

#9

Post by Steeltoez83 »

I have no experience with either steel. However I have just purchased a pac salt 2 in H1 plain edge to see first hand what its capable of.
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Re: H1 vs LC200N

#10

Post by TheGiant80 »

Thanks for putting this thread together Vivi. I’ll be watching how it plays out!
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Re: H1 vs LC200N

#11

Post by James Y »

I like them both, but in different ways.

But between the two, for me, LC200N edges out H1, because of the way it “feels” to me in use. It’s difficult to put into words, but there’s a slightly “different” feel to H1. I also prefer FFG over short hollow saber grinds, although the latter can be great, too, especially on the H1 SE Pac Salt and the Tasman Salt. I also like the way LC200N looks more than H1, if that makes any sense.

I know that H1 is more “rustproof,” unless you’re planning on sealing your knife up with chlorine tablets; in which case, you can ruin any steel. For me, LC200N is “rustproof” enough. Anything that would rust it would most likely be even more damaging to my own body. And at this point in my life, I’m not likely to test the limits of either steel in terms of their imperviousness to corrosion.

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Re: H1 vs LC200N

#12

Post by Gtscotty »

LC200N for me. My samples are in PE, and in my experience there is a significant difference in edge retention, LC200N is ok, H1 is disappointing. Neither have rusted on me, but my usage is mostly fresh water.

H1 gets pumped a lot on this board, maybe mine is a lemon, or maybe it's because I'm missing the magic serrations, but I wouldn't buy another H1 blade, so LC200N was a welcome intro to the salt line for me. I definitely wouldn't turn up my nose at a line of knives with salt-like construction and S110V or, dare I say, MagnaCut blades.
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Christian Noble
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Re: H1 vs LC200N

#13

Post by Christian Noble »

So on the fence on this one.

I have Salt 2s in both steels and both blade shapes. I have Pacific Salts in both steels too. Although not sold or supported in North America, also have G. Sakai Sabi knives in H1 and their “mystery steel” which is LC200N even though not labeled on the blade. All of them plain edge, but not all of them below, more are scattered elsewhere…

Image

I really like H1 is slightly tougher and can attest to it being virtually impervious to corrosion. More recently I appreciate H1’s toothy edge retention with low grit sharpening (thanks again Vivi).

It sounds crazy, but I like and notice the LC200N Salt 2 is 0.2oz lighter than the H1 version. It’s crazy to think that an LC200N Ladybug may weigh just half an ounce. For woodcraft, LC200N holds a slight advantage here too with the Spydercos, but not so much the G. Sakai fixed blades

I like them both and voted such, but that may change if we get the Ladybug and DF in LC200N. And then change again with the Enuff XL.

Also, does LC200N become ‘less special’ with Magnacut’s high corrosion resistance? H1 will always be special.
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Evil D
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Re: H1 vs LC200N

#14

Post by Evil D »

Christian Noble wrote:
Mon Nov 29, 2021 2:36 pm

Also, does LC200N become ‘less special’ with Magnacut’s high corrosion resistance? H1 will always be special.


Is MagnaCut 99.9% rust proof like LC is? I hung a Caribbean from a tree outside for a month with all sorts of nasty stuff on the blade and the few tiny specs of that that formed wiped off.
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abbazaba
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Re: H1 vs LC200N

#15

Post by abbazaba »

Not quite the right options in the poll for me, but I selected "I don't like either" because it was the closest to how I feel with no real need for a rust proof steel and an addiction to M4 and K390.

LC200n wasn't as good as I hoped based on the praise on the forum, and I never clicked with H1 despite a few attempts. I likely had unreal expectations for both based on my own preferences.

As an experiment, my S110v Manix LW has been my swim shorts knife for years of yard work followed by soaking in the pool, and despite straight up abuse the blade looks great. I think this was the 4th year in a row it's lived in my swim shorts all summer, remaining wet for hours/days in the shorts pocket hung up after swimming. We own a pool and a hot tub so its fully submerged and left wet almost every day during the summer. The spring and ball are fine (btw), but the backspacer is covered in surface rust. I hope Magnacut will do as well or better because I don't really like S110v either, but its been better than LC200n and H1 in this specific situation for me. Still hoping for that Manix2 LW Salt!

Edited to add pics of this abuse, um "testing"... S110v after 4 years of swimming in the pool/hot tub, left in wet shorts after:

Image
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Image

After 30-60 seconds of fingernail/thumb rub:

Image
Image
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Inside was a little more difficult, so I used a flat head to get in there, again only 30-60 second attempt:

Image
Image
Last edited by abbazaba on Mon Nov 29, 2021 7:46 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: H1 vs LC200N

#16

Post by cabfrank »

I wish I was qualified to vote, but I haven't had LC200N. I currently have six, I think, H1 Spydercos, and have had more. I really love the steel in both edge configurations. It gets real sharp, real easily, and believe me, and am not anywhere near a great sharpener.
Last edited by cabfrank on Mon Nov 29, 2021 3:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Christian Noble
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Re: H1 vs LC200N

#17

Post by Christian Noble »

Evil D wrote:
Mon Nov 29, 2021 2:42 pm
Christian Noble wrote:
Mon Nov 29, 2021 2:36 pm

Also, does LC200N become ‘less special’ with Magnacut’s high corrosion resistance? H1 will always be special.


Is MagnaCut 99.9% rust proof like LC is? I hung a Caribbean from a tree outside for a month with all sorts of nasty stuff on the blade and the few tiny specs of that that formed wiped off.
No, and sincerely glad you pointed that out; using Larrin’s table, Magnacut is a 9.5/10 where LC200N is 10/10 for corrosion — while very good, that’s still a significant difference in a corrosive environment, especially for most in this thread/forum. I posed a general question where I should have expanded that my question’s context was directed for the larger (edc) crowd favoring Magnacut over LC200N as an edc steel and what that does to the Salt line, as relatively speaking to all stainless steels, MC has got great corrosion resistance. For my use I am sticking with Salts (except for woodcraft).
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Evil D
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Re: H1 vs LC200N

#18

Post by Evil D »

Christian Noble wrote:
Mon Nov 29, 2021 3:31 pm
Evil D wrote:
Mon Nov 29, 2021 2:42 pm
Christian Noble wrote:
Mon Nov 29, 2021 2:36 pm

Also, does LC200N become ‘less special’ with Magnacut’s high corrosion resistance? H1 will always be special.


Is MagnaCut 99.9% rust proof like LC is? I hung a Caribbean from a tree outside for a month with all sorts of nasty stuff on the blade and the few tiny specs of that that formed wiped off.
No, and sincerely glad you pointed that out; using Larrin’s table, Magnacut is a 9.5/10 where LC200N is 10/10 for corrosion — while very good, that’s still a significant difference in a corrosive environment, especially for most in this thread/forum. I posed a general question where I should have expanded that my question’s context was directed for the larger (edc) crowd favoring Magnacut over LC200N as an edc steel and what that does to the Salt line, as relatively speaking to all stainless steels, MC has got great corrosion resistance. For my use I am sticking with Salts (except for woodcraft).



I do get your point though, H1 is still the reigning King of corrosion resistance at least among Spyderco offerings.


As for MagnaCut, I sincerely believe it's going to obsolete most other steels for me, as it's going to be corrosion resistant enough and do well enough in other categories that I think it'll be my ideal all around steel. The only question will be what models can I get MagnaCut in? Even now with H1/LC there are models I wish I could get them in that I probably never will, and I'm sure there will be models that I wish I could get in MagnaCut that I never will.
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Re: H1 vs LC200N

#19

Post by ladybug93 »

i think i prefer unique models more than i care about steels.

i prefer se h1 for my salts, but i'll likely never get rid of my se sheepsfoot caribbean and i carry it often because it's a great knife and very pleasing to use.

magnacut is more than stainless enough for my pe needs, since i've been more than happy with xhp for edc. it basically obsoletes lc200n in pe for me, but i just got a chef that i'm sure to keep carrying, even if i were to get a g10/magnacut manix.
keep your knife sharp and your focus sharper.
current collection:
C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
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Re: H1 vs LC200N

#20

Post by R100 »

My experiences mirror Vivi's fairly closely. I have used H1 a lot in both SE and plain but I only have lc200n knives in SE.

If I could only have one knife (instead of 70 or 80 :winking-tongue ) my PE Pac Salt 1 that I reground to a scandi then but a microbevel on would be the one. I use a Vivi style coarse edge and it is very tough and outslices many of my ffg Spydercos because it is so thin behind the edge. The edge retention is a quantum leap ahead of the factory set-up and it requires a trivial effort with whatever is at hand to restore treetopping sharpness.

My SE Pac Salt 1and lc200n Pac Salt 2 have both been reprofiled to 15 degrees and I find the H1 version much more robust and the edge much tougher. The lc200n version is a little bit slicier but there is not much in it and I regularly damage the edge so I clearly prefer the H1 here.

In smaller knives I find the ffg really comes to the fore and I greatly prefer my Salt 2 lc200n to my Salt 1 H1, both in SE. On the smaller blade the hollow grind seems just too shallow.

Overall, in my use which is much more rural/outdoors based than many forumites and primarily focussed on cutting natural materials, H1 is still king. I do like lc200n and value having it available. What I would really like though is to retain H1 and replace the lc200n option with Vanax superclean.

Dan
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