Lock rock

[jpm2]

Do you kmow someone who does this or going to diy?
Maybe it can be layered on.

Personally, I would probably opt to peen the lockbar. I've done this to a few liner locks that turned out good. A titanium framelock being much thicker and softer, should be easier.

[Danke]

I'd send a knife back if there was no appreciable detent.

On my Spidiechef I have to give is such a hard NYC shake if they saw me I'd be promoted directly to Chief Detective.

For the other guy probably pushing the lockbar all the way over had something to do with that call.

Yes observing a flaw in a mechanism always makes one the cause of the flaw.

Never said I pushed it over. Just that the gap there makes it clear it would be easy to do.

Weird

[JRinFL]

I'd send a knife back if there was no appreciable detent.

On my Spidiechef I have to give is such a hard NYC shake if they saw me I'd be promoted directly to Chief Detective.

For the other guy probably pushing the lockbar all the way over had something to do with that call.

Weak detents from the Taichung factory are nothing new on all of the models made there. Spyderco seems to feel they are within spec, I and others disagree.

I'm not going to blame the OP for his lock issues as mine is already over the 50% point after 2 days.

[Lucabrasi]

Mine was like this when I got it as far as the percentage goes. I don’t know for certain about the lock rock because I only noticed it this month. Suppose I need to inspect more closely. I suspect it came this way.

[Lucabrasi]

Do you kmow someone who does this or going to diy?
Maybe it can be layered on.

Personally, I would probably opt to peen the lockbar. I've done this to a few liner locks that turned out good. A titanium framelock being much thicker and softer, should be easier.

Must say I don’t know what peening in this context means.

Carbidizing I know from the Grimsmo videos and plan to buy a DC power supply, an engraver, and carbide bits and give it a try. My guess is there is literal room for error. Hopefully it turns out ok.

[aaronkb]

I really don’t see the point. I’m sure the knife is on its way back to me at this point or will be shortly.

I didn’t come on here to flame Spyderco. I came on here to see if anybody had any support for the idea of carbidizing to solve this. I was convinced that the warranty department would take care of it: they didn’t. So yes I’m annoyed, but I don’t feel any reason to try to tear down a company that I’ve been a huge fan of.

But hey, at least this thread has confirmed I’m not crazy. Thanks for that. And also has dismissed any fear of voiding the warranty by modifying.

Honestly I’d raise **** in this forum until Sal or Kristi notices. Maybe even make a new post addressed to them.

I love Spyderco too, and to be honest I don’t see I as tearing them down. I believe someone at W&R didn’t act in accordance with brand values (which is why we’re all so shocked) and the best way I can think of to get that addressed is to call attention to it from higher up. I’ve heard amazing stories about how they take care of people, and what you experienced strikes me as very out of character. And even brands, people and organizations we love need to be accountable. They should be pushed to take care of the issue and their customer, if that’s what it takes.

I admire that you’re ready to try to fix it yourself, but you shouldn’t have to.

[VooDooChild]

Well I went to check mine and immediately cut myself.

But anyways, mine is fine. 65% lockup, no gap, no lockrock.

I know my opinion doesnt matter but in my opinion your knife isnt within spec. How could it be? Any framelock that allows for lockrock, and has a gap between the lockbar and blade tang is completely worn out/ broken.

[jpm2]

Do you kmow someone who does this or going to diy?
Maybe it can be layered on.

Personally, I would probably opt to peen the lockbar. I've done this to a few liner locks that turned out good. A titanium framelock being much thicker and softer, should be easier.

Must say I don’t know what peening in this context means.

Carbidizing I know from the Grimsmo videos and plan to buy a DC power supply, an engraver, and carbide bits and give it a try. My guess is there is literal room for error. Hopefully it turns out ok.

Compressing the existing metal to flow in the direction it needs to fill the gap.

Don't know if it's helpful, but here's some diy discussion on carbiding.
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/car ... y.1645059/

[Lucabrasi]

Well I went to check mine and immediately cut myself.

But anyways, mine is fine. 65% lockup, no gap, no lockrock.

I know my opinion doesnt matter but in my opinion your knife isnt within spec. How could it be? Any framelock that allows for lockrock, and has a gap between the lockbar and blade tang is completely worn out/ broken.

Unfortunately two departments of Spyderco expressly disagree. Apparently the bar they need to clear is “won’t immediately injure the user.” Proper function is beyond the company’s expectation.

Appreciate the support folks.

[Lucabrasi]

[/quote]
Compressing the existing metal to flow in the direction it needs to fill the gap.

Don't know if it's helpful, but here's some diy discussion on carbiding.
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/car ... y.1645059/
[/quote]

How would this be done? Carefully use a hammer and try to push in the direction of the lock face from both sides of the lock bar? Or a vice or press of some type? I’m certainly open to trying as I have zero concern for maintaining the warranty.

[JRinFL]

Compressing the existing metal to flow in the direction it needs to fill the gap.

Don't know if it's helpful, but here's some diy discussion on carbiding.
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/car ... y.1645059/
[/quote]

How would this be done? Carefully use a hammer and try to push in the direction of the lock face from both sides of the lock bar? Or a vice or press of some type? I’m certainly open to trying as I have zero concern for maintaining the warranty.
[/quote]

Most use a punch and a hammer. Go slow, be careful, test often.

Edited to add, there are several good Youtube videos you can watch before trying it yourself.

[aaronkb]

I have a kitchen towel that won’t immediately injure me but it’s terrible as a knife…

[Lucabrasi]

I have a kitchen towel that won’t immediately injure me but it’s terrible as a knife…

Send it in.

[aaronkb]

I have a kitchen towel that won’t immediately injure me but it’s terrible as a knife…

Send it in.

They’d better at least give me a free sharpening

[phaust]

I used to carbidize all of my ti frame locks and can confirm it does add a bit to the length of the lock bar and always moved the lockup a bit earlier. I don't have a Chef to verify on that particular knife however

[Josh1973]

Well Dang. Hearing this is kind of disheartening.

[SpyderLine]

Do you kmow someone who does this or going to diy?
Maybe it can be layered on.

Personally, I would probably opt to peen the lockbar. I've done this to a few liner locks that turned out good. A titanium framelock being much thicker and softer, should be easier.

Must say I don’t know what peening in this context means.

Carbidizing I know from the Grimsmo videos and plan to buy a DC power supply, an engraver, and carbide bits and give it a try. My guess is there is literal room for error. Hopefully it turns out ok.

Did you ever try carbidizing or peening on your Chef? Did Spyderco end up contacting you anymore? Or did they just send your knife back?

[Lucabrasi]

Just sent the knife back, no further contact. I still have not acquired the setup to carbidize, and just have tried peening yet. For now I’m resigned to just not reaching for it often.