I'm going to EDC PE H1 until August

[Donut]

Looking at your sharpness testing after cutting cardboard, it looks like you cut more cardboard with the edge closest to your hand (which I think is normal). You can't cut paper with that section of the edge, but you can cut paper with most of the rest of the edge.

I tested a Dragonfly Salt on cardboard and I think I made it through about 50 feet and it wasn't completely dull.

[vivi]

Looking at your sharpness testing after cutting cardboard, it looks like you cut more cardboard with the edge closest to your hand (which I think is normal). You can't cut paper with that section of the edge, but you can cut paper with most of the rest of the edge.

I'm not trying to sound rude or argumentative here, but I think you and a few others should re-watch the paper cutting:

https://youtube.com/watch?v=s4igtwiBK1o&5m30s

I make four cuts.

First one is perfectly smooth, using the full blade.

Second one is perfectly smooth even turning the blade mid-cut.

Third one snagged a bit, then cut smooth when I reset.

Fourth one was perfectly smooth using the full blade.

I think the snagging in the third was due to technique or that part of the paper being wet from sweat off my hand.

80% of the cuts were perfectly smooth, the snag was the anomaly.

Furthermore, regardless of the paper results, the cardboard cuts were just as smooth and clean at the end of the test as the beginning, a point that I feel is worth re-iterating.

Again, this isn't to say I'm right and you're wrong, I'm just describing what I see and what I felt while performing the test.

I brought a back-up Pacific Salt with me that day. I had a 10 hour shift after the test. The test Pacific Salt was sharp enough I continued carrying it and left the back-up in my backpack.

This knife exceeded my expectations that day.

[vivi]

Are y'all watching the same video as me where the blade had obvious dead spots after cutting all the cardboard?

Not sure what you mean by dead spots? I think I tried four slices on the thin paper after cutting cardboard, and it sliced through every time.

One of the cuts snagged for a bit, but I think that was more due to my technique than the edge being dead. The last paper cut I made sure to use the full cutting edge, and no part of it hung up.

I thought the video showed that even though the edge lost shaving ability, it was no where close to losing general cutting ability. What did you think?

When you were cutting the tracing paper at the end there were several instances where your slow, deliberate slices got held up on the belly of the blade, which seemed to me to be where you were doing most of the cardboard cutting, and you also started the slices either with the tip or the heel of the blade, the areas of the blade that were relatively unworn by cardboard. I just am not convinced by this test that doing a course edge actually helps H1 edge retention, I *am* convinced that a 10 DPS primary bevel angle will keep a knife cutting cardboard forever though.

As stated above, there was one cut out of five that showed any snagging, and I'm not 100% convinced it was due to the edge being dulled. Though it's certainly possible that was the cause. Four out of five cuts were smooth, with most of them using the majority of the cutting edge.

https://youtu.be/s4igtwiBK1o&5m30s - That takes you right back to that section for an easy re-watch.

Geometry certainly makes the cuts easier, but I guarantee you once you reach a certain level of dullness with PE, SE, polished or toothy edges, there is snagging while slicing cardboard. Even a box cutter will eventually start to snag.



Everyone here has seen cuts like this I'm sure. But none of the cuts in my video produced this result.

[vivi]

Thanks for this Vivi! You’ve definitely helped give plain H1 some respect. I know I always avoided it just from what I’d read online, but setup and sharpened the way you’ve done I see it would easily do everything I could need. Side note, (since you’re kinda the pac salt dude around these parts) have the PAC Salt 2s that you’ve purchased felt as solid as the older models? I read some posts about excessive play and lock rock.

The LC200N Pacific Salt 2's I've handled, you can have smooth opening or zero play, one or the other. Mine are impossible to tighten down to zero side to side play while retaining the ability to open them one handed.

My H1 Pacific Salt 2's are better in this regard. They show less play than my LC's, but still a touch more than my Pacific Salt 1's.

Not sure what the issue is, but I've learned to live with it. I've come to prefer the 2 regardless of the blade play.

I've never had any Pacific Salt fail to lock and unlock when I wanted it to either way, and I've used them across three decades now.

[cabfrank]

Stupid question maybe, but what is the quick and dirty procedure for thinning the angle before the coarse edge? Same hone?

[cabfrank]

Also, what is in the chapstick tube, and what is the strop? I have the hone, and it looks doable.

[vivi]

Stupid question maybe, but what is the quick and dirty procedure for thinning the angle before the coarse edge? Same hone?

Yep, I use that 200 grit stone to reprofile and to sharpen.

It took around 25-30 minutes to put the initial edge on the Pacific Salt.

strop - https://www.gritomatic.com/products/cow ... 793e&_ss=r (they also have different sizes, kangaroo leather and balsa FYI)

compound - https://www.gritomatic.com/products/ven ... 6630759533 (I strop with 40 micron)


Last time I looked they didn't carry 125 micron. I might have to order some today to try out!

[cabfrank]

Thanks. All good prices too.

[vivi]

I have two identical Pacific Salts now, with another satin finished PE arriving tomorrow.



Any suggestions on comparisons to run between the three before I reprofile the new ones?

Maybe reprofiled @ 200 grit, factory edge @ 200 grit, and factory edge @ 8,000 grit?

I bought a few materials for some further testing, and I can get all the cardboard I need.

[Wartstein]

Vivi, how do you feel about the pretty much non existing tapering in the H1 vs the LC 200N ffg Pac Salts, where a lot of tapering is going on?

For me this is perhaps the biggest disadvantage (or lets say difference) from the H1 to the LC model. Has nothing to do with the steel of course, but the front part of the blade is where one mostly cuts on a surface / board and THROUGH stuff. Here the tapering and by that the in the front really thin blade of the LC models does a much better job than the H1 variants imho - the difference in tapering has more impact than sabre hollow vs ffg.

Sure, the big PRO of the non-tapering: Very strong blade and tip...

[Zive]

I have two identical Pacific Salts now, with another satin finished PE arriving tomorrow.



Any suggestions on comparisons to run between the three before I reprofile the new ones?

Maybe reprofiled @ 200 grit, factory edge @ 200 grit, and factory edge @ 8,000 grit?

I bought a few materials for some further testing, and I can get all the cardboard I need.

Have you tried the dual-grit technique yet? Might be interesting to see what performance you get with a 200 grit finish on one side of the blade and much higher (though not necessarily 8,000 grit) finish on the other side.

[u.w.]

I have two identical Pacific Salts now, with another satin finished PE arriving tomorrow.



Any suggestions on comparisons to run between the three before I reprofile the new ones?

Maybe reprofiled @ 200 grit, factory edge @ 200 grit, and factory edge @ 8,000 grit?

I bought a few materials for some further testing, and I can get all the cardboard I need.

Nice stack of PacSalts!

Very interesting ideas on the testing too. The different edge finishes (200 grit vs 8,000 grit) on factory profile edge bevels / edge angles, would/could show some differences.
And,
We both know how much better these knives cut when the edge has been dropped down/re-profiled. Therein lies the "geometry cuts" conversation.
So,
I think it would be pretty interesting to see the 200 grit vs 8,000 grit factory edge bevel test done,
And Then,
drop that edge bevel down to what we like on the two separate knives, run them again, and see how those numbers stack up.

So you'd potentially be showing the advantage/disadvantage (differences) of edge finishes in regards to grit, AND also edge finish(s) in regards to edge angle/BTE thickness WITH the low and high grit finishes again. Or two knives with The Same grit finish on the edge, but with different geometries / BTE thickness - i.e. one factory & one dropped down.
Then we could potentially see what difference just the geometry makes. Do it once with a 8,000 grit edge, and once with a 200 grit edge?

And the "lowly H1 steel" is a fantastic way to not only show H1's performance, but the differences.

I realize I'm sitting here typing all comfy and relaxed, and what I'm typing about is quite a bit of effort and time...

I'm sure you've had all these thoughts already too though, so whatever you decide and do will be informative, educational, and definitely very appreciated.

I found it most interesting your comparing SAK stainless & H1 in the "in yer pocket" thread, as I have thought the two steel very similar too, for many, many years now. Although with a hefty price difference in the knives sold with said steels...


u.w.

[u.w.]

Question, what is the quick and dirty procedure for thinning the angle before the coarse edge? Same hone?

Yes, that's exactly how I do it

u.w.

[tonijedi]

Please test them with the factory angle before you reprofile!

[JD Spydo]

For at least the past 7 to 8 years plus I've been EDCing both a plain edge and a fully serrated folder both on a daily basis. I've done well by carrying two premium Spyderco folders in both edge types. For at least 4 years plus my main EDC PE carry was my M390 Military ( lately was replace with the G-10 Ayoob PE model) and for my full SE option I've mostly carried my oldie but goodie Spyderco Stainless RESCUE model for my full SE carry. Those two are an awesome duo

IF they ever do one of the bigger Dyad models in a premium blade steel I could be content to EDC just that one folder.

I would come closer to trying EVIL D's regimen of only carrying an SE only before I would opt for a PE only. Because in a typical day I encounter at least 2 to 3 minor cutting jobs that can be done very quickly in full SE.

But do keep us posted as to how "PE Only" works out. As sharp as you keep your blades it might even work well for you.

[40mm]

Well after carrying nothing but a SE dragonfly for the last 9 months , this thread had me purchase a lightly used pac salt 1 in plain edge. I still like the old style and bolt clip and this is my first plain edge H1 knife. Not sure how much I’ll carry it, but it’ll be fun to mess around with dif sharpening.

[40mm]

Just remembered this old video which was one of the first more positive reviews I had seen on H1. Before I saw this everything I had heard was about the poor performance of the steel in plain edge.

https://youtu.be/vI3PTj20rgs

[vivi]

Thought I should share this here too:

I've been EDCing nothing but H1 the past few weeks and it really makes me question some of my purchases. The Pacific Salt is as perfect of an EDC knife as I've found.

Last time I went to the beach I accidently carried my S30V Military into the ocean - viewtopic.php?t=89798

Today I had my Pacific Salt clipped to my swim shorts while I swam in the Atlantic:



Didn't get rinsed out until 4 hours later, and it stayed clipped to my shorts soaked in salt water that entire time.

The result?

The pivot felt a little gritty and I spent about 20 seconds rinsing it out.

That's it.



Compare that to a half hour detailing on the Military.

When I consider how long rust maintenance can take VS a simple touch-up, prioritizing edge holding over corrosion resistance is simply illogical for me.

It is so much faster, easier and requires less tools to touch-up an edge compared to breaking down a knife and sanding rust out. I keep one of these $3 diamond stones in my EDC bag and I can restore an H1 edge to a shaving sharp ~300 grit toothy edge in 20-30 seconds.

H1 is the best steel overall I have tried in a pocket knife. Other steels do individual things better....generally just edge holding....but none can compare to the total package H1 offers.

It's rust proof, tougher than most any stainless I've tried, is one of the easiest steels to sharpen, and holds an edge well with a thin coarse apex.

I'm not carrying this knife because I said I'd carry it all month. I'm carrying it because it works better than anything else would for me this time of year.

[u.w.]

So I answered in the "what's in yer pocket" thread yesterday that my low grit edge was doing fine two weeks in, but that it wouldn't shave arm hair...
I had my PacSalt PE H1 on my today of course, while out doing "hedges, edges, and mowing" my yard work (106° F "real feel").
I cut various vines and branches, no big deal, pretty normal. I did that also on my nocturnal woods trail w/headlamp "test" run, last night too.

When I got to work this afternoon (I'm at work now), I wiped off the blade with a shop towel and some hand sanitizer. I started telling a co-worker about this thread and the steel, etc...
I mentioned that the edge while wearing, was still doing all I needed,

and then I put it to my left forearm to show it wouldn't shave though...

and...

My edge does indeed still shave my arm hair.
So, I was incorrect yesterday/last night vivi, when I said it wouldn't shave.

Just wanted to share that, and this thread seemed the more appropriate place to do that.

u.w.

[vivi]

So I answered in the "what's in yer pocket" thread yesterday that my low grit edge was doing fine two weeks in, but that it wouldn't shave arm hair...
I had my PacSalt PE H1 on my today of course, while out doing "hedges, edges, and mowing" my yard work (106° F "real feel").
I cut various vines and branches, no big deal, pretty normal. I did that also on my nocturnal woods trail w/headlamp "test" run, last night too.

When I got to work this afternoon (I'm at work now), I wiped off the blade with a shop towel and some hand sanitizer. I started telling a co-worker about this thread and the steel, etc...
I mentioned that the edge while wearing, was still doing all I needed,

and then I put it to my left forearm to show it wouldn't shave though...

and...

My edge does indeed still shave my arm hair.
So, I was incorrect yesterday/last night vivi, when I said it wouldn't shave.

Just wanted to share that, and this thread seemed the more appropriate place to do that.

u.w.

thanks! I'll be keeping an eye on your pacific salts progress.