S110V doesn't "feel" sharp

[Josh Crutchley]

I can get S110V shaving sharp but it just doesn't have that bite that other steels have. I don't experience this with lower carbide steels. Has anyone else noticed this or something similar?

[Zive]

What abrasives are you using?

[kobold]

How do you sharpen it? I am lately going from coarse or fine DMT diamond plates straight to a finishing stone (Spyderco UF) and a one micron strop (10x/side). I raise the burr on both sides with the plates, then raise the burr twice with the Spyderco UF on both sides too. Edge trailing the second time. Even after two weeks in the kitchen it is still cutting through dry, tough bacon rind like it is not there.

[Sharp Guy]

I've had the same basic experience when sharpening S110V on the Sharpmaker (or similar) even when using diamonds or CBN. I can get that sticky sharp feeling if I use my Hapstone V7. I suspect that S110V is just less forgiving of slightly varying angles than some of the other steels. That theory doesn't really make sense to me though. I can get everything else sticky sharp on a V style setup including Maxamet.

[The Meat man]

I agree with Sharp Guy. It seems the more precise and careful you can be the stickier the edge. Of course this is true of every steel but I think S110V is a lot more sensitive in this regard.

I know since getting my Wicked Edge system, I can get stickier edges on S110V (and others) than I could even with my Hapstone.

[JD Spydo]

I've had that some experience on a couple of high end blade steels myself. I came to the conclusion that it was all in either in the sharpening angle or that the edge might just need a slight re-aligning. I know a lot of guys here on the Forum feel that the old style butcher steels aka sharpening steels can be quite helpful. The newer German made F. Dick super hard and super polished smooth sharpening steels with the correct skewing angle can tune up a blade quickly. Also I've gotten a couple of super smooth ceramic sharpening rods/steels and I've had some interesting success with those tools as well.

An edge can be just ever so slightly out of alignment to where you can't see it with the naked eye. Which is why a smooth steel can be a great tool to have for a minor edge alignment. Also F. Dick makes a nice variety of steels with various types of ridges and grooves which I've also found to be helpful. The F. Dick "Multicut" is a most interesting tool to get your shaving sharp blade back into alignment again. The F. Dick Poliron is a great smooth steel.

[JRinFL]

Wish I could help, but now you know why some of use choose "lesser" steels based on their sharpening response. I may get a sharpening steel like JD mentions above if will help me on the super steels.

[Josh Crutchley]

What abrasives are you using?

I've tried various diamond abrasives and silicon carbide(400grit and lower). I have some Smiths and DMT plated diamond stones but I just can't get it that sharp with those but they work for any other steel even S90V. I'm currently using a set of Venev stones the lower grit is resin bonded and the higher grit is OCB. It's the S110V is very deceptive, sometimes it will feel dull but it still shaves.

I've had the same basic experience when sharpening S110V on the Sharpmaker (or similar) even when using diamonds or CBN. I can get that sticky sharp feeling if I use my Hapstone V7. I suspect that S110V is just less forgiving of slightly varying angles than some of the other steels. That theory doesn't really make sense to me though. I can get everything else sticky sharp on a V style setup including Maxamet.

I like the way Maxamet and S9OV sharpen.

[dlum1]

I was initially disappointed in S110V after its first sharpening. I sharpen free-hand on ceramics (but recently upgraded to some diamond stones). I could get it shaving sharp, but found the razor edge crumbled quickly to a working edge that lasted forever. I started adding a microbevel with S110V and found it kept its razor edge longer. I suspect the high carbide content couldn't support the initial angle. However, it could also have just been fatigued steel along the edge from the factory. Because I prefer a razor sharp edge over a working edge, I navigate towards tool steels for their toughness at the higher hardness (such as with M4).

[Josh Crutchley]

I agree with Sharp Guy. It seems the more precise and careful you can be the stickier the edge. Of course this is true of every steel but I think S110V is a lot more sensitive in this regard.

I know since getting my Wicked Edge system, I can get stickier edges on S110V (and others) than I could even with my Hapstone.

The Wicked Edge is a nice investment, I played around with lapping films some but I only have a diy fixed angle setup.

[Gtscotty]

Maybe it is an angle holding issue, S110V is of course very, very wear resistant, so probably more time and strokes on the stone, more opportunities for the angle to get slightly off if you're not using a guide.

In my experience, S110V will take an excellent edge, but I used angle guides when sharpening on plates, and now use a KME, so angles are pretty tightly controlled.

[u.w.]

After reading where you wrote twice, that it doesn't "feel sharp", but still shaves - that's got me wondering...

Is what "feels sharp" to you normally - actually a small burr?
And now,
Are you actually de-burring the S100V, so it may not "feel sharp" but it is, and de-burred, and easily shaves?

I've seen a lot of people feel a burr, and think they were feeling a sharp edge instead.

u.w.

[aaronkb]

I’m having a similar experience with s90v - I recently picked up the s90v para 3, and just can’t seem to get the edge on it that I want. I know s90v is supposed to be a joy to sharpen and keep a decent fine edge before giving way to the working edge, so I’m just confused. I have experience with a variety of other steels (k390, rex45 and m4 are my top 3).

[DougC-3]

This sounds like my experience with ZDP-189 vs. K390. The ZDP doesn't bite into the back of my thumbnail after sharpening like K390, but still shaves. I thought it was just the difference in steel composition.

[notfixingit]

I agree with Sharp Guy. It seems the more precise and careful you can be the stickier the edge. Of course this is true of every steel but I think S110V is a lot more sensitive in this regard.

I know since getting my Wicked Edge system, I can get stickier edges on S110V (and others) than I could even with my Hapstone.

What's your thoughts on the wicked edge? I've been thinking about picking up the V3 Pro, buy once, cry once kind of a thing.

[Evil D]

I've seen a lot of people feel a burr, and think they were feeling a sharp edge instead.

u.w.

This is all too common, and then after the first use the burr chips off and the edge goes dull and then all the complaints about brittle steal and poor heat treat start because it couldn't possibly be a person's sharpening habits.

Not saying that's the case in this thread, but when this sort of thing happens with one steel and not other, I always look at myself before anything else.

[bearfacedkiller]

Keep trying. It is unforgiving. Once you master S110V you will be able to sharpen anything.

[Evil D]

One thing I learned about steels like this and the Sharpmaker is, if you don't have it sharp coming off the medium rods, you're wasting your time moving up to fine and ultra fine and you're really just burnishing the edge.

[FK]

I agree with Evil D,,,, in addition, would add after finishing with any coarse or medium stone,,,, test for apex sharpness,,, then draw cut some wood at 90 degrees to grain and test again,, if you had a burr for edge, it will show very quick deterioration. I also use a 10x & 15x eye loop magnification to inspect the edge after finishing on coarse stone.

Regards,
FK

[S-3 ranch]

S110v , laughs @ a sharpmaker, it needs a diamond wheel or belt, or a Edge pro guided system
Or get sent away for a makeover if necessary after some neglect