Finally got my hidden lanyard hole mule scale files uploaded to Thingiverse, included files for smooth texture, solid hex texture and hex outline texture.
Finally got my hidden lanyard hole mule scale files uploaded to Thingiverse, included files for smooth texture, solid hex texture and hex outline texture.
No prob! I'd like to see a pic of how they turned out if you wind up printing some.
I tried loading the files into Cura but the three STLs import incredibly small.
Do you think you could try re-uploading the STLs? I think there is an issue with the files.
Also would it be possible for you to separate the files into each handle side?
No prob! I'd like to see a pic of how they turned out if you wind up printing some.
I tried loading the files into Cura but the three STLs import incredibly small.
Do you think you could try re-uploading the STLs? I think there is an issue with the files.
Also would it be possible for you to separate the files into each handle side?
The files were designed in inch, the current version of PrusaSlicer will recognize that and adjust, Cura is assuming they are mm scale. You'll need to scale the .... scales to 2,540%, that should fix your issue (that's an imperial comma, not a decimal).
As for splitting them, that's also something you can do in PrusaSlicer and I assume Cura, you can split them into separate objects, delete one or the other, etc. If you can't do it in Cura, give PrusaSlicer a try, it's free, has built in profiles for some of the other machines like the Enders and has lots of great features.
No prob! I'd like to see a pic of how they turned out if you wind up printing some.
I tried loading the files into Cura but the three STLs import incredibly small.
Do you think you could try re-uploading the STLs? I think there is an issue with the files.
Also would it be possible for you to separate the files into each handle side?
The files were designed in inch, the current version of PrusaSlicer will recognize that and adjust, Cura is assuming they are mm scale. You'll need to scale the .... scales to 2,540%, that should fix your issue (that's an imperial comma, not a decimal).
As for splitting them, that's also something you can do in PrusaSlicer and I assume Cura, you can split them into separate objects, delete one or the other, etc. If you can't do it in Cura, give PrusaSlicer a try, it's free, has built in profiles for some of the other machines like the Enders and has lots of great features.
When I export my CAD files to STL I always make sure the units are set to mm. That way I don't have to scale anything if I use Cura to slice. 3D printing is all metric anyway. So it only makes sense
Of all the things I've lost I miss my mind the most!
No prob! I'd like to see a pic of how they turned out if you wind up printing some.
I tried loading the files into Cura but the three STLs import incredibly small.
Do you think you could try re-uploading the STLs? I think there is an issue with the files.
Also would it be possible for you to separate the files into each handle side?
The files were designed in inch, the current version of PrusaSlicer will recognize that and adjust, Cura is assuming they are mm scale. You'll need to scale the .... scales to 2,540%, that should fix your issue (that's an imperial comma, not a decimal).
As for splitting them, that's also something you can do in PrusaSlicer and I assume Cura, you can split them into separate objects, delete one or the other, etc. If you can't do it in Cura, give PrusaSlicer a try, it's free, has built in profiles for some of the other machines like the Enders and has lots of great features.
When I export my CAD files to STL I always make sure the units are set to mm. That way I don't have to scale anything if I use Cura to slice. 3D printing is all metric anyway. So it only makes sense
The .stls are actually dimensionless, that's why Cura has to make an assumption. At work I deal in both systems depending on what I'm working on, but still prefer to draw in imperial. Regardless, it's a very simple tweak in your slicer, and if you haven't tried PrusaSlicer, and use a supported printer, i'd definitely recommend giving it a try.
Do you have Fusion360 set to export your inch drawings in metric? If so, where is the selection for that?
I use Prusa Slicer too. I like how it does supports. So sometimes I'll use that if I'm struggling with how Cura's generating supports. There's a couple other things I like about PS but also some things I don't like about it. I've been using Cura for a few years and I have my profiles tweaked so I get really good results with my machines. So at this point I haven't upgraded Cura since version 4.2 and I'm not real willing to change slicers. No need and I don't think Prusa Slicer's any better. I get nice results with both.
As far as I know there is no specific setting in Fusion 360 to change the units of your exports. The global unit setting is what it's based on. I generally prefer to work in Imperial units too but it doesn't really matter to me. I worked for a German company for many years. So I'm perfectly comfortable working in metric units. Most CAD software I've used will allow you to enter in whatever units you want as long as you call it out when inputting (3" or 3mm) regardless of what unit the global units are set to. I don't remember if Fusion 360 allows for this or not. I'm pretty sure it does. I know Revit does
Of all the things I've lost I miss my mind the most!
The files were designed in inch, the current version of PrusaSlicer will recognize that and adjust, Cura is assuming they are mm scale. You'll need to scale the .... scales to 2,540%, that should fix your issue (that's an imperial comma, not a decimal).
As for splitting them, that's also something you can do in PrusaSlicer and I assume Cura, you can split them into separate objects, delete one or the other, etc. If you can't do it in Cura, give PrusaSlicer a try, it's free, has built in profiles for some of the other machines like the Enders and has lots of great features.
Oh I didn't know, thank you. Can't wait to print them this weekend :)
I love PS, but had to move back to Cura. PS does some wacky random things when working with Ender 6 right now, like slamming the Y access forward banging it on the front rail over and over till I stop the print and forgetting to raise the bed at the start of the print. It doest always happen with PS, but it's never happened with Cura
---------------------------------------------------- Spyderco and Tops enthusiast
Obsessed with DLC Cruwear for some reason
Knives, Guns, and Watches, yes please
Some time ago I got into the habit of holding my thumb on the top of my Sharpmaker rods while reprofiling to hold them steady. With diamond and CBN rods this starts to get a little uncomfortable after a while. I also have a bad habit when I don't have my thumb there or sometimes coming straight down on top of the rod and banging my edge up.
So a couple weeks ago I reached out to Sharp Guy/Pat and told him what I had in mind and he nailed it with these little caps that stick over the ends of the rods. They give me a more comfortable thumb rest and will be a lot more gentle if I hit them with my edge.
They also work pretty well as a 90 degree reference if you align them right.
These work so much better than the 4 layers of duct tape I was using before
Some time ago I got into the habit of holding my thumb on the top of my Sharpmaker rods while reprofiling to hold them steady. With diamond and CBN rods this starts to get a little uncomfortable after a while. I also have a bad habit when I don't have my thumb there or sometimes coming straight down on top of the rod and banging my edge up.
So a couple weeks ago I reached out to Sharp Guy/Pat and told him what I had in mind and he nailed it with these little caps that stick over the ends of the rods. They give me a more comfortable thumb rest and will be a lot more gentle if I hit them with my edge.
They also work pretty well as a 90 degree reference if you align them right.
These work so much better than the 4 layers of duct tape I was using before
I don't really have a need to use them as David intended but I do keep a Sharpmaker set up on my workbench and I always have a extra set of rods (either medium or fine depending on what's in the base) on the bench. I also have some non-Spyderco triangle stones loose in a drawer because they didn't come in tubes. I'm always leery of the ends getting broken from being dropped or knocking against each other. The angled sides and corner prevent them from being able to touch the ground. Problem solved!
The inside has a slight taper to the friction fit any of my stones
Of all the things I've lost I miss my mind the most!
Some time ago I got into the habit of holding my thumb on the top of my Sharpmaker rods while reprofiling to hold them steady. With diamond and CBN rods this starts to get a little uncomfortable after a while. I also have a bad habit when I don't have my thumb there or sometimes coming straight down on top of the rod and banging my edge up.
So a couple weeks ago I reached out to Sharp Guy/Pat and told him what I had in mind and he nailed it with these little caps that stick over the ends of the rods. They give me a more comfortable thumb rest and will be a lot more gentle if I hit them with my edge.
They also work pretty well as a 90 degree reference if you align them right.
These work so much better than the 4 layers of duct tape I was using before
Awesome! Every time I use my sharp maker. I thought about making a set of these!
