Repair a SE

[T.J.]

I chipped my Native 5 SE today. Any advice on how to repair? I’ve never sharpened a SE before.

[sal]

Hi T.J.

It will sharpen out in with time on a Sharpmaker.

sal

[T.J.]

Hi T.J.

It will sharpen out in with time on a Sharpmaker.

sal

Thanks for the quick reply, Sal. Do I run the knife down the Sharpmaker the same way I would with a PE?

[sal]

Slowly on the corners. Did you watch the instruction video?

sal

[T.J.]

Slowly on the corners. Did you watch the instruction video?

sal

I honestly glanced over it. I’ll go back and check out the part on SE’s. Thanks again!

[vivi]

Slowly on the corners. Did you watch the instruction video?

sal

I honestly glanced over it. I’ll go back and check out the part on SE’s. Thanks again!

This thread may assist you

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=84544

[Joshua J.]

I wouldn't worry about the chip too much, maybe use a thin diamond rod to grind out the chip into a new mini scallop ("Personally" I would use a diamond bit Dremel tool), but in general I'd bet you could get away with mostly ignoring it if you give the blade a good sharpening on a benchstone, using the same method as seen here: https://youtube.com/watch?v=5vDhmzpQAkw

Sharpening scallops individually is excessively time consuming, and you will generally get better results using a benchstone.

With this method you can do the majority of your sharpening on a fast working coarse stone and you always keep the shape of the factory serrations, plus if you do it right and grind nearly flat with the primary grind you'll reduce the overall blade thickness behind the edge as time goes on so the knife will cut better the more you sharpen it.

[Evil D]

It's really no more complicated than fixing edge damage on plain edge, just sharpen until it's gone or let it sharpen out over time. I've damaged the edges worse than this on H1 and LC200N and easily reprofiled them on diamond and CBN rods, but you can do the same with the brown rods and a little more time.

[Wartstein]

I wouldn't worry about the chip too much, maybe use a thin diamond rod to grind out the chip into a new mini scallop ("Personally" I would use a diamond bit Dremel tool), but in general I'd bet you could get away with mostly ignoring it if you give the blade a good sharpening on a benchstone, using the same method as seen here: https://youtube.com/watch?v=5vDhmzpQAkw

Sharpening scallops individually is excessively time consuming, and you will generally get better results using a benchstone.

...

Just had a quick glance into the vid (no time right now), but still: You will produce a V-edge instead of the original chisel grind with this method, right?
Nothing I´d personally want on an SE knife. But rather keep the steeper chisel grind angle.

[Evil D]

I wouldn't worry about the chip too much, maybe use a thin diamond rod to grind out the chip into a new mini scallop ("Personally" I would use a diamond bit Dremel tool), but in general I'd bet you could get away with mostly ignoring it if you give the blade a good sharpening on a benchstone, using the same method as seen here: https://youtube.com/watch?v=5vDhmzpQAkw

Sharpening scallops individually is excessively time consuming, and you will generally get better results using a benchstone.

...

Just had a quick glance into the vid (no time right now), but still: You will produce a V-edge instead of the original chisel grind with this method, right?
Nothing I´d personally want on an SE knife. But rather keep the steeper chisel grind angle.

If you use a Sharpmaker and sharpen the back side at 90 degrees like any other knife, you'll eventually end up with a V edge anyway, and technically SE aren't TRUE chisel grinds anyway because the back side isn't ground at 90 degrees, it has at least 5 degrees or so of blade grind so the edge is technically a V anyway. I sharpen most of mine by holding the blade down as close to flat against the rods as I can on the back just to try to keep the V as thin as I can. If a person does sharpen normally by holding the blade straight up and down on the back side, it will make for a tougher edge so if edge damage happens a lot it may not be a terrible idea but it will shorten the serration bevel over time and thicken up the edge a lot.

[Wartstein]

Just had a quick glance into the vid (no time right now), but still: You will produce a V-edge instead of the original chisel grind with this method, right?
Nothing I´d personally want on an SE knife. But rather keep the steeper chisel grind angle.

If you use a Sharpmaker and sharpen the back side at 90 degrees like any other knife, you'll eventually end up with a V edge anyway, and technically SE aren't TRUE chisel grinds anyway because the back side isn't ground at 90 degrees, it has at least 5 degrees or so of blade grind so the edge is technically a V anyway. I sharpen most of mine by holding the blade down as close to flat against the rods as I can on the back just to try to keep the V as thin as I can. If a person does sharpen normally by holding the blade straight up and down on the back side, it will make for a tougher edge so if edge damage happens a lot it may not be a terrible idea but it will shorten the serration bevel over time and thicken up the edge a lot.

Thanks, David, and I know that!

But the guy in the vid is ONLY sharpening the side where the scallops are NOT - and so does NOT sharpen the actual scallops at all!
The way I (and you) do it on a Sharpmaker is: Primarily sharpen the scalloped side, and the flat side more or less only to remove the burr - so with the least amount of actual angle at all ("zero" not possible, right, so Spydercos SE will never be a true chisel grind).
Even if one chooses to give the non scalloped side lets say a 15 degree angle on the sharpmaker, they will at least alternate on BOTH side of the blade with the SM in the 30 incl. setting...

[Evil D]

Just had a quick glance into the vid (no time right now), but still: You will produce a V-edge instead of the original chisel grind with this method, right?
Nothing I´d personally want on an SE knife. But rather keep the steeper chisel grind angle.

If you use a Sharpmaker and sharpen the back side at 90 degrees like any other knife, you'll eventually end up with a V edge anyway, and technically SE aren't TRUE chisel grinds anyway because the back side isn't ground at 90 degrees, it has at least 5 degrees or so of blade grind so the edge is technically a V anyway. I sharpen most of mine by holding the blade down as close to flat against the rods as I can on the back just to try to keep the V as thin as I can. If a person does sharpen normally by holding the blade straight up and down on the back side, it will make for a tougher edge so if edge damage happens a lot it may not be a terrible idea but it will shorten the serration bevel over time and thicken up the edge a lot.

Thanks, David, and I know that!

But the guy in the vid is ONLY sharpening the side where the scallops are NOT - and so does NOT sharpen the actual scallops at all!
The way I (and you) do it on a Sharpmaker is: Primarily sharpen the scalloped side, and the flat side more or less only to remove the burr - so with the least amount of actual angle at all ("zero" not possible, right, so Spydercos SE will never be a true chisel grind).
Even if one chooses to give the non scalloped side lets say a 15 degree angle on the sharpmaker, they will at least alternate on BOTH side of the blade with the SM in the 30 incl. setting...

Yeah I wouldn't do that either. I was mostly commenting for the sake of the OP not you

Sharpening serrations is so over complicated by most people. You can get the job done on the corner of a bench stone of that's all you had. Vivi has mentioned using a piece of sandpaper folded around a sharp corner like a table.

[Joshua J.]

I wouldn't worry about the chip too much, maybe use a thin diamond rod to grind out the chip into a new mini scallop ("Personally" I would use a diamond bit Dremel tool), but in general I'd bet you could get away with mostly ignoring it if you give the blade a good sharpening on a benchstone, using the same method as seen here: https://youtube.com/watch?v=5vDhmzpQAkw

Sharpening scallops individually is excessively time consuming, and you will generally get better results using a benchstone.

...

Just had a quick glance into the vid (no time right now), but still: You will produce a V-edge instead of the original chisel grind with this method, right?
Nothing I´d personally want on an SE knife. But rather keep the steeper chisel grind angle.

No.
You're grinding almost flat with the Primary Grind, or if you don't mind ruining the finish across the entire surface you could sharpen totally flat on the Primary Grind (the Sabre grind on the Endura is particularly well suited to sharpening totally flat).
A person could nitpick and say that a 3-4 degree bevel is still "A Bevel" and technically creating a V edge, but practically these SE blades already come with a small bevel on the flat side of the blade anyway so you're really not deviating from factory spec there either (and if you do go shallow enough you're improving on factory spec).

[Joshua J.]

Learning how to sharpen the Serrated Edge with a Bench Stone revolutionized SE blades for me, I went from practically ignoring that they exist to happily EDC'ing several Full SE knives that were always kept shaving sharp.

[Evil D]

I don't have pics on my phone but I did start out sharpening my Stretch on a bench stone (well, freehand on my Edge Pro stones) by laying the blade all the way flat on the back side and then I was using a tapered diamond rod for the serrations side. It did work and it did make the back of the blade kinda ugly. I would only do this with a FFG blade though because you'll get a significantly steeper angle doing this with any saber grind.

[T.J.]

Lots of good info here. Thanks everyone!