Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
I found a stretch with v-toku2 steel, never heard of it , is it decent steel for EDC ranch use
As I am kinda hard on knives, buy or pass @$130 ?
2. Same knife in vg10 same price
Help a old boy pick
As I am kinda hard on knives, buy or pass @$130 ?
2. Same knife in vg10 same price
Help a old boy pick
“”Think of an edge as a living thing that comes and goes, born, get's old, is reborn.””
SAL :spyder:
“ The best laid schemes o’ Mice an’ Men”
SAL :spyder:
“ The best laid schemes o’ Mice an’ Men”
Re: Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
Go ahead with the V-toku. It should be tougher than the VG-10 and hold a similar if not better edge.
Re: Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
They have a delica in S30v also but really like that stretch color
“”Think of an edge as a living thing that comes and goes, born, get's old, is reborn.””
SAL :spyder:
“ The best laid schemes o’ Mice an’ Men”
SAL :spyder:
“ The best laid schemes o’ Mice an’ Men”
- VooDooChild
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Re: Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
I really like vtoku.
Just like any carbon steel though, it will patina/rust.
Super tough, super easy to sharpen.
Just like any carbon steel though, it will patina/rust.
Super tough, super easy to sharpen.
"Rome's greatest contribution to mathematics was the killing of Archimedes."
Re: Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
The V-Toku2 Stretch 2 was a sprint run.. ran around $100 new, iirc. Depending on condition, $130 isn't unreasonable, imo, seeing as the knife will never be made in that configuration again. If you want it, I'd say go for it, because the chance to buy one may not always be there..
I'd pick V-Toku2 over VG10, but keep in mind that it may require more awareness with regard to corrosion resistance..
I'd pick V-Toku2 over VG10, but keep in mind that it may require more awareness with regard to corrosion resistance..
Rick H.
..well, that escalated quickly..
..well, that escalated quickly..
Re: Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
I guess I could force patina it like some of our moraknif truck knivesVooDooChild wrote: ↑Fri Apr 09, 2021 10:49 amI really like vtoku.
Just like any carbon steel though, it will patina/rust.
Super tough, super easy to sharpen.
“”Think of an edge as a living thing that comes and goes, born, get's old, is reborn.””
SAL :spyder:
“ The best laid schemes o’ Mice an’ Men”
SAL :spyder:
“ The best laid schemes o’ Mice an’ Men”
- VooDooChild
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- Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2018 1:29 am
Re: Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
Its about like 52100 in how quickly it stains. Cut up some pickles with it, let it sit for like 3 minutes. It will have a patina.S-3 ranch wrote:I guess I could force patina it like some of our moraknif truck knivesVooDooChild wrote: ↑Fri Apr 09, 2021 10:49 amI really like vtoku.
Just like any carbon steel though, it will patina/rust.
Super tough, super easy to sharpen.
"Rome's greatest contribution to mathematics was the killing of Archimedes."
Re: Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
Vtoku is a fun steel, I highly recommend.
I dont have any science backing... but it feels similar to 52100 from my experience.
Very easy to get scary sharp
I dont have any science backing... but it feels similar to 52100 from my experience.
Very easy to get scary sharp
-Spencer
Rotation:
Gayle Bradley 2 | Mantra 1 | Watu | Chaparral 1 | Dragonfly 2 Salt SE
Rotation:
Gayle Bradley 2 | Mantra 1 | Watu | Chaparral 1 | Dragonfly 2 Salt SE
Re: Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
It may be tough, but I've found it to dull very quickly...so I'm not sure how well it would fare on a ranch if you're cutting abrasive rope and materials like that. But yes, it does come back to screaming sharp very quickly and easily!
15 's in 10 different steels
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
-Rick
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
-Rick
Re: Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
Look for the HAP40 version...
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
- VooDooChild
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Re: Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
Vtoku was the stretch 2.Wartstein wrote: Look for the HAP40 version...
Thats a weird thing about it though. It seems to dull quickly, but the edge doesnt seem to deform at all.TkoK83Spy wrote: It may be tough, but I've found it to dull very quickly...so I'm not sure how well it would fare on a ranch if you're cutting abrasive rope and materials like that. But yes, it does come back to screaming sharp very quickly and easily!
I honestly think the steel is quick to feel dull, but will still cut and even slice paper when your fingers are telling you it wont.
"Rome's greatest contribution to mathematics was the killing of Archimedes."
Re: Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
VooDooChild wrote: ↑Fri Apr 09, 2021 12:03 pmVtoku was the stretch 2.Wartstein wrote: Look for the HAP40 version...
TkoK83Spy wrote:
Right!
Thanks for correcting that! :)
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
Re: Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
The seller found out it’s my 20th anniversary and said $110+ $8 in shipping
Dear lord I hope it’s a good knife !
Any advice on sharpening it , does it need diamond or is normal equipment good
Dear lord I hope it’s a good knife !
Any advice on sharpening it , does it need diamond or is normal equipment good
“”Think of an edge as a living thing that comes and goes, born, get's old, is reborn.””
SAL :spyder:
“ The best laid schemes o’ Mice an’ Men”
SAL :spyder:
“ The best laid schemes o’ Mice an’ Men”
- VooDooChild
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- Posts: 2622
- Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2018 1:29 am
Re: Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
Its basically carbon steel. Its very easy to sharpen. Normal equipment will work.S-3 ranch wrote: The seller found out it’s my 20th anniversary and said $110+ $8 in shipping
Dear lord I hope it’s a good knife !
Any advice on sharpening it , does it need diamond or is normal equipment good
"Rome's greatest contribution to mathematics was the killing of Archimedes."
Re: Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
Hmmm, that's pretty interesting! I only have it in a Dragonfly so I've never used it very hard. That tempts me to give it a bit more time before touching up the next time I throw it in the pocket.VooDooChild wrote: ↑Fri Apr 09, 2021 12:03 pmThats a weird thing about it though. It seems to dull quickly, but the edge doesnt seem to deform at all.
I honestly think the steel is quick to feel dull, but will still cut and even slice paper when your fingers are telling you it wont.
15 's in 10 different steels
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
-Rick
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
-Rick
- steelcity16
- Member
- Posts: 5353
- Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2017 11:34 am
Re: Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
Or skip the folder and get an LT Wright Ranch Hand. :D Folder wise, the Cruwear Straight Spine Stretch XL that Sal has mentioned being in the plans seems like a solid pick, but that could be months/year away. For current models its hard to beat the K390 Endura, or wait a few months for the K390 Straight Spine Stretch.
CRU-CARTA THE SEKI MODELS! AND BRING US THE DODO-FLY!
Re: Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
I'd like to just hold that monster ^^ Looks very comfortable, and fun!
15 's in 10 different steels
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
-Rick
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
-Rick
- VooDooChild
- Member
- Posts: 2622
- Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2018 1:29 am
Re: Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
Try it.TkoK83Spy wrote:Hmmm, that's pretty interesting! I only have it in a Dragonfly so I've never used it very hard. That tempts me to give it a bit more time before touching up the next time I throw it in the pocket.VooDooChild wrote: ↑Fri Apr 09, 2021 12:03 pmThats a weird thing about it though. It seems to dull quickly, but the edge doesnt seem to deform at all.
I honestly think the steel is quick to feel dull, but will still cut and even slice paper when your fingers are telling you it wont.
I read all the reviews on the steel I could find when I picked up an endura in it a few months ago.
Easy to sharpen quick to dull.
I did notice the steel would feel dull quickly, but I really couldnt see edge deformation.
Even when it felt (on my finger) dulled, it still sliced paper fine.
I think some steels are just more "grabby" than others.
"Rome's greatest contribution to mathematics was the killing of Archimedes."
- Cambertree
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- Posts: 1640
- Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2014 6:48 am
- Location: Victoria, Australia
Re: Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
Nice score.
As to whether it works well for you it will depend on your uses and sharpening ability.
The exposed carbon steel edge area will rust if you don’t wipe it clean and dry it after use. The cladding is stainless.
You need to watch that the pivot area and action is kept dry too. The sandwiched carbon steel layer between the stainless cladding can rust there and inside the pivot if it’s used in wet conditions and not dried or oiled. You’ll see a cool patina stripe develop along the middle of the spine too, because of this.
It’ll sharpen well with all common types of abrasives. I’d say touch the edge up often to keep it at its best. It’ll take a screaming sharp edge with little effort.
Like all the carbon steels Spyderco use, the edge can be thinned out much more than the higher carbide volume steels and still retain stability.
My Superblue Stretch is at 9 degrees per side, and a few swipes on the Sharpmaker brown rods at 15 dps sees it back to extremely sharp.
The Stretch is a very comfortable knife. I haven’t tried the Stretch 2 yet.
I actually passed on the V-Toku 2 sprints as looking at the chemistry, I didn’t think it offered anything over Superblue. After seeing Larrin’s micrographs of V-Toku 2, I kinda wish I had picked one up, as it has a very fine carbide structure which seems a bit more evenly dispersed than Superblue.
I like O1, 52100, Superblue, 1095 etc. It sounds like you have some experience with the Mora carbon steel knives, which are probably in 20C, Sandvik’s 1095 equivalent.
As to whether it works well for you it will depend on your uses and sharpening ability.
The exposed carbon steel edge area will rust if you don’t wipe it clean and dry it after use. The cladding is stainless.
You need to watch that the pivot area and action is kept dry too. The sandwiched carbon steel layer between the stainless cladding can rust there and inside the pivot if it’s used in wet conditions and not dried or oiled. You’ll see a cool patina stripe develop along the middle of the spine too, because of this.
It’ll sharpen well with all common types of abrasives. I’d say touch the edge up often to keep it at its best. It’ll take a screaming sharp edge with little effort.
Like all the carbon steels Spyderco use, the edge can be thinned out much more than the higher carbide volume steels and still retain stability.
My Superblue Stretch is at 9 degrees per side, and a few swipes on the Sharpmaker brown rods at 15 dps sees it back to extremely sharp.
The Stretch is a very comfortable knife. I haven’t tried the Stretch 2 yet.
I actually passed on the V-Toku 2 sprints as looking at the chemistry, I didn’t think it offered anything over Superblue. After seeing Larrin’s micrographs of V-Toku 2, I kinda wish I had picked one up, as it has a very fine carbide structure which seems a bit more evenly dispersed than Superblue.
I like O1, 52100, Superblue, 1095 etc. It sounds like you have some experience with the Mora carbon steel knives, which are probably in 20C, Sandvik’s 1095 equivalent.
Re: Stretch in a steel I never heard of v-toku2
I am planning on taking it to 17* profiled edge it’s NIB factory and when it’s time to sharpen someone said all my spyderco shows be taken to about 17* (chim in if you know better degree )Cambertree wrote: ↑Sun Apr 11, 2021 3:07 amNice score.
As to whether it works well for you it will depend on your uses and sharpening ability.
The exposed carbon steel edge area will rust if you don’t wipe it clean and dry it after use. The cladding is stainless.
You need to watch that the pivot area and action is kept dry too. The sandwiched carbon steel layer between the stainless cladding can rust there and inside the pivot if it’s used in wet conditions and not dried or oiled. You’ll see a cool patina stripe develop along the middle of the spine too, because of this.
It’ll sharpen well with all common types of abrasives. I’d say touch the edge up often to keep it at its best. It’ll take a screaming sharp edge with little effort.
Like all the carbon steels Spyderco use, the edge can be thinned out much more than the higher carbide volume steels and still retain stability.
My Superblue Stretch is at 9 degrees per side, and a few swipes on the Sharpmaker brown rods at 15 dps sees it back to extremely sharp.
The Stretch is a very comfortable knife. I haven’t tried the Stretch 2 yet.
I actually passed on the V-Toku 2 sprints as looking at the chemistry, I didn’t think it offered anything over Superblue. After seeing Larrin’s micrographs of V-Toku 2, I kinda wish I had picked one up, as it has a very fine carbide structure which seems a bit more evenly dispersed than Superblue.
I like O1, 52100, Superblue, 1095 etc. It sounds like you have some experience with the Mora carbon steel knives, which are probably in 20C, Sandvik’s 1095 equivalent.
“”Think of an edge as a living thing that comes and goes, born, get's old, is reborn.””
SAL :spyder:
“ The best laid schemes o’ Mice an’ Men”
SAL :spyder:
“ The best laid schemes o’ Mice an’ Men”