Cambertree wrote: ↑
Sun Apr 11, 2021 3:07 am
As to whether it works well for you it will depend on your uses and sharpening ability.
The exposed carbon steel edge area will rust if you don’t wipe it clean and dry it after use. The cladding is stainless.
You need to watch that the pivot area and action is kept dry too. The sandwiched carbon steel layer between the stainless cladding can rust there and inside the pivot if it’s used in wet conditions and not dried or oiled. You’ll see a cool patina stripe develop along the middle of the spine too, because of this.
It’ll sharpen well with all common types of abrasives. I’d say touch the edge up often to keep it at its best. It’ll take a screaming sharp edge with little effort.
Like all the carbon steels Spyderco use, the edge can be thinned out much more than the higher carbide volume steels and still retain stability.
My Superblue Stretch is at 9 degrees per side, and a few swipes on the Sharpmaker brown rods at 15 dps sees it back to extremely sharp.
The Stretch is a very comfortable knife. I haven’t tried the Stretch 2 yet.
I actually passed on the V-Toku 2 sprints as looking at the chemistry, I didn’t think it offered anything over Superblue. After seeing Larrin’s micrographs of V-Toku 2, I kinda wish I had picked one up, as it has a very fine carbide structure which seems a bit more evenly dispersed than Superblue.
I like O1, 52100, Superblue, 1095 etc. It sounds like you have some experience with the Mora carbon steel knives, which are probably in 20C, Sandvik’s 1095 equivalent.