Serrated Edge Retention

Discuss Spyderco's products and history.
JRinFL
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Re: Serrated Edge Retention

#21

Post by JRinFL »

RustyIron wrote:
Fri Apr 09, 2021 7:48 pm
No one ever mentions the difference in the angle between a plain edge and a serrated edge. I don't know the numbers, but I'm gonna bet it's a factor worthy of consideration.
I literally mentioned it in the 3rd post of this thread! Many others have mentioned it before as well. Someone on the forum, Vivi I think, mentions greatly thinning out plain edge H1 to increase performance.
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bearfacedkiller
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Re: Serrated Edge Retention

#22

Post by bearfacedkiller »

The reasons why a serrated edge cuts longer have been covered pretty well in this thread already. I might just add that because the teeth of a serrated edge make contact first the pressure (pounds per square inch) applied is initially focused on those points. That drastically increases the ease of initiating the cut.

Also, as a plain edge and a serrated edge both begin to dull the serrated edge will start to pull ahead due to the inherent cutting aggression that serrated edges produce. It isn’t so much that it is sharper at the apex, it is just able to more effortlessly separate matter at the same sharpness as a plain edge. This producing the illusion of being sharper.
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Re: Serrated Edge Retention

#23

Post by JD Spydo »

stanolszews wrote:
Thu Apr 08, 2021 7:48 pm
First of all, the Spyder Edge is as much of a "revolutionary concept" as the opening hole and the pocket clip. Specifically, the Spyder Edge Ladybugs are the real deal. If you don't have one, get one. Or get two. The H1 Ladybug with the hawk bill blade, probably my favorite, is essentially a weightless pocket chainsaw.

So what's the deal with serrated edge retention? H1 is good when it's serrated? Serrated H1 is better than serrated LC200N? What's it like on S30V? My serrated hawk bill H1 Ladybug seems pretty good; the serrations make it a solid cutting tool even when it's not freshly sharpened, but it's a true savage after touching it up. Steel obviously matters, but it seems like there is some nuance when you introduce serrations.
Probably the best of all the serrated Spyderco models I've ever owned and used are either the old 440V and AUS-8 both in full SE. As I've stated in the past I've found that blade steels that excel in Serrated Edge performance usually have completely different properties than blade steels that have done extremely well in plain edge. VG-10 is one of the very few blade steels that I've found to do really well in both edge types. And I would have to put ATS-55 a close second in that regard.

I'm hoping at some point that our Metallurgy guru "Larrin" will do some tests on blade steel performance in SE.
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