What steel stays sharp longer?

[Mrj]

In construction I use many tools. Many companies make all kind of knife tools. Like insulation knives, razor knives, even putty knives lol. I always have a spyderco in my pocket and it seems to get used more than any other tool. The problem is I am constantly sharpening my s30v para 3 (beater knife). I’m looking for a steel that will hold the sharp edge longer. Sometimes I cut things on metal, block, and other hard surfaces. Any suggestions that will take more of a beating and sharp longer. Thanks.

[Giygas]

K390 is probably gonna be best for the type of use you describe.

[The Meat man]

I would advise CPM REX 45.

That, or try using your CPM S30V at a more obtuse angle, like 40 - 50 dps. It won't cut quite as nicely, but should improve the resilience of your edge.

Of course, even the very best steel will still probably sustain some damage if you're cutting against metal or concrete.

[vivi]

Cut against different materials and you can get superior edge retention from the same knife. Avoid cutting on steel backing, concrete, etc. Wood or plastic is much easier on knife edges.

[Deadboxhero]

In construction I use many tools. Many companies make all kind of knife tools. Like insulation knives, razor knives, even putty knives lol. I always have a spyderco in my pocket and it seems to get used more than any other tool. The problem is I am constantly sharpening my s30v para 3 (beater knife). I’m looking for a steel that will hold the sharp edge longer. Sometimes I cut things on metal, block, and other hard surfaces. Any suggestions that will take more of a beating and sharp longer. Thanks.

How it's sharpened is the most significant factor. Experiment with angles and finishes, make sure you're properly apexing and not coming up short or leaving a burr behind.

After that's been exhausted you can start adding different steels and be better set up to evaluate them anecdotally.

In theory the finer structured steel with sufficient hardness will hold a "sharp" edge longer.

[pantagana23]

Cut against different materials and you can get superior edge retention from the same knife. Avoid cutting on steel backing, concrete, etc. Wood or plastic is much easier on knife edges.

MagnaCut will solve this :D

[The Mastiff]

K390
Rex 45
CPM M4
CPM 4V
CPM Cruwear

They are (top) highest wear resistance down to highest toughness (bottom) in approximation ( meaning each steel can be slightly changed by the heat treatment received to give higher wear or alternately higher toughness so the list can vary a little) . Each one is an excellent knife steel with a slightly different balance of attributes. Note none are stainless.

A new steel coming out soon developed by metallurgist Larrin Thomas called Magnacut will slot in the above list but also add stainless level corrosion resistance.

Joe

[Donut]

What type of cutting do you do?

I imagine you could get a lot more cutting out of the Para 3 if you also carried a small utility blade for the tougher cutting stuff. That would save your Para 3 edge.

You might want to try CPM S110V. CPM S110V has higher wear resistance and is easily available if you have trouble finding something in K390.

[Mrj]

I use it for everything. I have been contemplating using my rex45 manix 2 or k390 para 3. I definitely use my s30v way harder then most. To the point my black pocket clip is now silver lol. I usually sharpen to 20-25 degrees. Magnacut sounds awesome tho. How would the knife joy 20cv para 3 LW hold up to these conditions?

[bearfacedkiller]

I don’t think any knife stays sharp cutting things against metal, block, and other hard surfaces. Cutting against brick and stone will kill an edge instantly. I would focus on something tough that is easy to sharpen and try to use a wood backer when cutting stuff.

[Mrj]

I watched a YouTube video of a guy stabbing cinder blocks with k390 pm2 and it still cut and tip never broke.

[Mrj]

What type of cutting do you do?

I imagine you could get a lot more cutting out of the Para 3 if you also carried a small utility blade for the tougher cutting stuff. That would save your Para 3 edge.

You might want to try CPM S110V. CPM S110V has higher wear resistance and is easily available if you have trouble finding something in K390.

I was thinking of the blurple para 3

[vivi]

I watched a YouTube video of a guy stabbing cinder blocks with k390 pm2 and it still cut and tip never broke.

Just because you can doesn't mean you should.

I could cut steaks with my Rex45 Chief on ceramic plates and need to sharpen the knife within a day or two. Or I could cut steaks on a cutting board and go a month without sharpening.

I could throw my chef knife in the dishwasher at work like the other cooks do with our house knives, and I'd be unable to slice a tomato after a single shift. Or I can hand wash it like I do and slice ripe tomato for multiple weeks on the same edge.

If you can avoid cutting on surfaces that damage a knife, that is your best route. S30V will hold an edge well under those conditions, especially with a coarser finish.

How you use a knife and how you sharpen it will play a bigger role in edge holding than the steel used in most cases, assuming you're comparing two quality steels with competent heat treats

[James Y]

I watched a YouTube video of a guy stabbing cinder blocks with k390 pm2 and it still cut and tip never broke.

Just because you can doesn't mean you should.

I could cut steaks with my Rex45 Chief on ceramic plates and need to sharpen the knife within a day or two. Or I could cut steaks on a cutting board and go a month without sharpening.

I could throw my chef knife in the dishwasher at work like the other cooks do with our house knives, and I'd be unable to slice a tomato after a single shift. Or I can hand wash it like I do and slice ripe tomato for multiple weeks on the same edge.

If you can avoid cutting on surfaces that damage a knife, that is your best route. S30V will hold an edge well under those conditions, especially with a coarser finish.

How you use a knife and how you sharpen it will play a bigger role in edge holding than the steel used in most cases, assuming you're comparing two quality steels with competent heat treats

What vivi said.

Jim

[Evil D]

A related question is, how much time and effort do you want to spend on fixing edge damage? Is ease of sharpening important to you? Sometimes it's easier to touch up an edge everyday than it is to repair chips in a very high wear resistant steel.

[Mrj]

I mostly cut plastic draw ties, plastic sheeting, cardboard and things like that. But occasionally cut insulation on metal duct or plastic wrap on metal surfaces. I try have a razor utility knife handy but I find myself reaching in my pocket more often than not lol. I’ve had my s30v para 3 for over two years of everyday use. Basically looking to upgrade my beater to a better steel. I sway from using a sprint or exclusive for this type of work. If not using it on metal surfaces it will stay sharp for around a week. Just looking for something that lasts longer with the occasional hard use in between.I don’t mind the sharpening just want it to last longer.

[Steeltoez83]

Have you considered using serrations instead of a plain edge? I currently carry around a small utility knife with a serrated blade as kind of like a sidekick to whatever folder I'm carrying.

[Mrj]

Have you considered using serrations instead of a plain edge? I currently carry around a small utility knife with a serrated blade as kind of like a sidekick to whatever folder I'm carrying.

That’s kinda got me thinking.

[Mrj]

K390? S110v? Serrated? These are all great choices I have to ponder now. Thanks everyone for valuable information. If there any other suggestions I’d be open to them. K390 seems like the best but as beater I’m not sure lol.

[The Meat man]

Maxamet wouldn't be a bad choice either, if you are willing to exercise a bit more care with it. I find it holds a good edge for a very long time, is tougher than most people give it credit for, and also sharpens nicely.