Sharpmaker Questions

[FaithfulPastor]

I do not think I do a very good job of sharpening a knife using the flat side of the Sharpmaker's triangle rods, so I use only the points.

What am I missing out on by using this method? Am I damaging the blade or the rod by doing this?

Second, before I sharpen a knife, I run my rods across an art eraser to do a light leaning of the rod. Every now and then I scrub the rod with barkeepers friend and the scrubber side of a combination sponge/scrubber normally used for pots and pans. Is this a good practice or am I just fooling myself?

Thanks!
Michael

[blues]

Your cleaning techniques are just fine and mimic my own. They should work well for most any buildup on the rods.

Using the corners (only) is a method used by some, the main concern would be moderating the force exerted, and being extra careful to maintain the bevel angle since you have such a small contact point versus the flat side of the triangle, and it would be easy to make an error.

It might also be useful to give a few licks on the flat side once you're satisfied with the edge provided by the corners...to smooth out the bevel and provide a bit more consistency.

[vivi]

your cleaning methods are fine.

i would advise practicing more with the flat sides. They spread out the pressure you're applying across a wider area, while the corner focus that pressure into a very small area. Its easier to get a clean edge with wider stones for that reason.

[Wartstein]

Cleaning the rods with barkeepers friend from time to time is a very good idea! It removes the metal dust the rods get clogged with and they'll cut better.
The corners get of course clogged up faster than the flats.

Using only the corners:
1. They wear down faster than the flats
2. They cut more aggressively

Any idea why sharpening on the flats does not work for you?
One advice: Make sure that the very heel of the blade really makes full contact with the flats of the rod

[FaithfulPastor]

Wartstein,
Thank you for your question.

Getting the blade vertical is not the problem. Getting it perfectly flat, and keep it flat, during the stroke is hard. I seem to pivot the blade. Pretend, for a moment, the stone is 3 inches wide. It's really easy to know when the blade has tilted and is not in full contact with the stone. But as the stone narrows, it's easier and easier to not know if the blade is in full contact with the narrow rod. My most effective technique is to hold the knife with my right hand and use my finger from the left hand to keep the knife in full contact with the rod. And yes, I have cut that finger more than once doing that. :)

[ChrisinHove]

I do recall Cliff Stamp posting here that the stresses on the blade edge from the rod corners could be considerable. I have found that clean rods, light pressure and practice are key.

[Danvp]

I have the same issue with sharpening on the flats. Tend to pivot the blade a bit on every stroke. I am aware it is due to my bad technique. However, using the pointy side of the triangle rods is also fine I experienced. I have sharpened dozens of knives this way. Spyderco’s and other brands. Works for me.

Vivi is right about the flat side of the stone spreads out the pressure more. So I try to be very careful with applying to much pressure and let the rod do the work for you. Maybe my edges would be a lot cleaner after the flats and don’t need much stropping. Time to get out of my (sharpening) comfortzone and practice with the flats ones more.

[JD Spydo]

I do not think I do a very good job of sharpening a knife using the flat side of the Sharpmaker's triangle rods, so I use only the points.

What am I missing out on by using this method? Am I damaging the blade or the rod by doing this?

Second, before I sharpen a knife, I run my rods across an art eraser to do a light leaning of the rod. Every now and then I scrub the rod with barkeepers friend and the scrubber side of a combination sponge/scrubber normally used for pots and pans. Is this a good practice or am I just fooling myself?

Thanks!
Michael

One thing I tell everyone who gets a Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker is to take the video that comes with it and watch it at least 2 to 3 times with no interruptions. And before you try sharpening a high end Spyderco or any other top quality knife>> you want to start out with some cheap kitchen knives or any other average grade folding knife you have. If you make mistakes on those it's no big deal. And I would get good at sharpening the cheap knives before I ever put my skills to the test with a really good knife.

Also buy all the extra stones you can buy that didn't come with the Sharpmaker. You can buy the Diamond Rods, The Ultra-Fine stones, The CBN stones extra and it makes it a really complete kit. Because if you want to get proficient at sharpening you've got to have really decent set of tools to do it with. But do watch that video over and over until you get all the points that Mr. Glesser tries to teach on that film. Oh one other hint: Get some Bar Keeper's Friend cleanser from the grocery store or any local hardware store and keep those stones as clean as you can. I don't sharpen more than two knives before I give my stones a thorough cleaning.

[Wartstein]

Wartstein,
Thank you for your question.

Getting the blade vertical is not the problem. Getting it perfectly flat, and keep it flat, during the stroke is hard. I seem to pivot the blade. Pretend, for a moment, the stone is 3 inches wide. It's really easy to know when the blade has tilted and is not in full contact with the stone. But as the stone narrows, it's easier and easier to not know if the blade is in full contact with the narrow rod. My most effective technique is to hold the knife with my right hand and use my finger from the left hand to keep the knife in full contact with the rod. And yes, I have cut that finger more than once doing that. :)

Yes, that´s what I was trying to say... I had that problem when I first got the sharpmaker, but only at the very handle end / heel of the blade.
Perhaps it helps if you position yourself so that you can both look from "behind" and "above" at the sharpmaker? So that you can see if you keep the blade vertical AND in full contact?