Eric had mentioned something about he's retooling the pinned Manix to have screws..
I like the pinned version fine, BUT have only wanted to purchase pinned knives in stainless steel blades. Screw construction would additionally get me interested in tool steel blades. Hope screws don't add to the Manix' already chunky size, but I doubt they would.
I never had any problems with the pinned construction, and I think on tool steel blades it should be enough to let some oil run down to the pivot area from time to time - due to the constant movement and friction from opening and closing probably the pivot area has some self cleaning function anyway - ?
That being said: I also see no cons with SCREW construction: If one wants the never-opening-function of pins, they could still bath the screws in red loctite and it´d be pretty much the same...
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
I never had any problems with the pinned construction, and I think on tool steel blades it should be enough to let some oil run down to the pivot area from time to time - due to the constant movement and friction from opening and closing probably the pivot area has some self cleaning function anyway - ?
That being said: I also see no cons with SCREW construction: If one wants the never-opening-function of pins, they could still bath the screws in red loctite and it´d be pretty much the same...
Agreed; however I use the Manix for food prep (does a good job!), so that constrains me to using mineral oil, which is not the most protectant oil (or even close). Vegetable oils would go rancid, so they're out. And in food prep you get a fair amount of water into the hinge. BUT your point of loctite'd screws is well taken.
To those who do not have problems with the pinned/riveted construction, you also have to consider the climate of where you live in; it maybe good where you live in, but here where I am located, tropical humidity is such that even when storing my GB2 M4 in my airtight hard case, without a layer of mineral oil or Froglube, it started developing micro-pits in a few day's time. My Seconds Police 4 rusted its liner within a week after landing here (see vivi's Police 4 internals thread). I had to Froglube my Para3 and PM2 Maxamets immediately after receiving it here for fear of immediately developing unwanted patina and rust on the internal pivot area (I wanted it to develop a patina on my own terms, not the environment's)
Imagine if it was the REX45 or Maxamet LW with its impossible to open scales. It would be a nightmare for maintenance.
Keep in mind that even molds made of tool steel wear from molding cycles. When a tool runs out of "shots" is a good time to redesign the mold because a new one will have to be machined anyway. That's been my experience working with plastics, at least.
In regards to the requests for screwed construction and and Eric's response in the context of the adjacent rising costs and prices discussion-- i think we can expect a price increase on the M2LW if/ when we see screw construction.
On another point, i like the blocky handle shape. I like my Shaman models too, but for me, not all models are improved by contouring the handles.
I'd pay extra for screwed construction, contoured handles AND better steel (not stock BD1N). I don't think anybody here expected a free lunch for such changes especially when those changes definitely add to the functional value of a knife.
On contours improving a knife: case in point - Para 3 LW. Contoured handles makes a world of difference in handling comfort between the G10 and LW versions.
To those who do not have problems with the pinned/riveted construction, you also have to consider the climate of where you live in; it maybe good where you live in, but here where I am located, tropical humidity is such that even when storing my GB2 M4 in my airtight hard case, without a layer of mineral oil or Froglube, it started developing micro-pits in a few day's time. My Seconds Police 4 rusted its liner within a week after landing here (see vivi's Police 4 internals thread). I had to Froglube my Para3 and PM2 Maxamets immediately after receiving it here for fear of immediately developing unwanted patina and rust on the internal pivot area (I wanted it to develop a patina on my own terms, not the environment's)
Imagine if it was the REX45 or Maxamet LW with its impossible to open scales. It would be a nightmare for maintenance.
i've been saying this forever. i can't believe they would even make non-stainless lw models. i guess there are traditional knives made with tool steel that you can't take apart either, but it just seems nuts for such an expensive knife.
i personally have zero issues with the manix ergos. i know people say it's blocky and some have compared the lw model to a lego in the past. for me, i guess the handle is tall enough that it fits my grip pretty perfectly. i don't perceive the hard edges at all and they don't bother me one bit. i'm not opposed to rounding them necessarily, but i worry about what the cost will be (in feel; not price). i personally don't like the shaman at all. i don't like the rounded handle and i don't like that it thins out at the pinky. the manix does this too, but not as much. rounding it off might take away some of the fullness of the handle when gripped. i'd hate to see the manix made less ergonomic in the name of making it more so.
i personally have zero issues with the manix ergos. i know people say it's blocky and some have compared the lw model to a lego in the past. for me, i guess the handle is tall enough that it fits my grip pretty perfectly. i don't perceive the hard edges at all and they don't bother me one bit. i'm not opposed to rounding them necessarily, but i worry about what the cost will be (in feel; not price). i personally don't like the shaman at all. i don't like the rounded handle and i don't like that it thins out at the pinky. the manix does this too, but not as much. rounding it off might take away some of the fullness of the handle when gripped. i'd hate to see the manix made less ergonomic in the name of making it more so.
Agree. If the Manix gets Shamanized, I fear it'll be huge, and it's already big in the pocket. If the Manix gets any thicker I guess I'll be shopping the used market for "old" Manix 2s. If I were designing a new Manix I'd be looking for ways of making the handle more slender, while retaining the blade size, but keeping the handle as it is + screws would suit me just fine.
i personally have zero issues with the manix ergos. i know people say it's blocky and some have compared the lw model to a lego in the past. for me, i guess the handle is tall enough that it fits my grip pretty perfectly. i don't perceive the hard edges at all and they don't bother me one bit. i'm not opposed to rounding them necessarily, but i worry about what the cost will be (in feel; not price). i personally don't like the shaman at all. i don't like the rounded handle and i don't like that it thins out at the pinky. the manix does this too, but not as much. rounding it off might take away some of the fullness of the handle when gripped. i'd hate to see the manix made less ergonomic in the name of making it more so.
Agree. If the Manix gets Shamanized, I fear it'll be huge, and it's already big in the pocket. If the Manix gets any thicker I guess I'll be shopping the used market for "old" Manix 2s. If I were designing a new Manix I'd be looking for ways of making the handle more slender, while retaining the blade size, but keeping the handle as it is + screws would suit me just fine.
to be fair, i don't think people are talking about making the handle wider. i think they're just referring to rounding the hard edges. that shouldn't change the size of the manix in the pocket, but it might significantly change the feel in your hand.
i do love the rounded edges on my pacific salt. it's wonderful in the waistband, especially compared to my native salt, which is very blocky and uncomfortable in the waistband, despite being much smaller. anyway, rounding the edges could make it better than ever. i'm just worried that it could make it worse.
...On contours improving a knife: case in point - Para 3 LW. Contoured handles makes a world of difference in handling comfort between the G10 and LW versions.
Once again that's totally subjective. While I can (obviously) feel the difference between the two P3 models it makes absolutely no difference to me. I never considered the G10 P3 uncomfortable to use. So I don't consider a little bit of extra radius on the outside of the P3 LW handles to be an improvement. Both feel fine to me
Of all the things I've lost I miss my mind the most!
...On contours improving a knife: case in point - Para 3 LW. Contoured handles makes a world of difference in handling comfort between the G10 and LW versions.
Once again that's totally subjective. While I can (obviously) feel the difference between the two P3 models it makes absolutely no difference to me. I never considered the G10 P3 uncomfortable to use. So I don't consider a little bit of extra radius on the outside of the P3 LW handles to be an improvement. Both feel fine to me
I don´t know about Para 3 vs Para 3 LW (don´rt have neither), but as I´ve mentioned somewhere else already:
In any normal use and in 95% of knife tasks the Manix 2 LW has absolutely great ergos (and that is probably true as well for the G10 version!). I think it is perfect for frequent use, when one does a whole lot of shorter to medium tasks during a day.
Where the not rounded scales CAN get uncomfortable: In both longer and "harder" use at the same time: Try to cut really thick, double wall cardboard (the kind that it is actually really hard to cut at all and takes a lot of force) for let´s say ten minutes without a break with the Manix LW and compare it to something like the Stretch: At least in my experience in that specific (and yes, very rare) scenario the Manix is a lot more likely to give you hotspots.
That being said: I absolutely love the Manix 2 LW as an EDC knife!
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
i wonder if we can get some kind of conversion kit to change a pinned manix over to screws. i would love screws on mine.
Someone did that here recently and has a thread on it if you do a search, might have been rustyiron. Probably not the easiest conversion.
i've also seen a lw conversion to g10, but was told it would probably cost me as much as just getting a g10 version. i'll probably just let the lw be what it is and get an a dlc g10 version when i can.
How would you round the corners of the handle substantially without running into the rivets (screws)? If I were to sand the (already somewhat rounded) corners of my LW Manix handle, I'd be hitting the heads of the rivets in short order.
If you make more room on the handle for a larger radiused corner, you'd need a bigger handle, which IMO is not what the Manix needs for pocket carry...it's already borderline for me.
If a pocket knife is causing hot spots in your hand because you're using it for long periods, I'd recommend getting a non-pocketable knife with a big comfy handle for that job.
