Manix 2 LW CPM SPY27 now shipping to dealers!

[sal]

I've been carrying one for a few days now. Frankly, I could care less about the color, but I really like the design (of course I'm partial) and it's a bigger chunk of the steel than my Para 3 and I really like the steel. Of course I'm partial there as well.

sal

[Surfingringo]

I really want to try this steel and see what it’s all about. I was going to get a para 3 LW but I think the Manix LW might be a better platform for me. I was never a huge fan of the g10 Manix and then I got the Manix LW in Maxamet. The LW version of the Manix is like a completely different design. I don’t know what it is about that knife but it finds its way into my pocket more than almost any knife I own (well...except for one )

[SteveMidwest]

I like the new color, but don't think I'll get another Manix 2 LW until I work out the process for drilling out the rivets and replacing them with screws.

The best 'trick' I have found, Tom. Is to use a very small carbide burr in a Dremel. Slowly grinding a little bit of the head of the rivet off at a time. I grind some on one, and then move on to another. Never letting the rivet get hot. Rotating from one to another, until the top is so thin, it just pops off. Concentrating on the center, because of course that's the only place that it makes a connection. Then, I just push the stem through. No heat = no melt. No drill = no rotating! :D

[SteveMidwest]

I've been carrying one for a few days now. Frankly, I could care less about the color, but I really like the design (of course I'm partial) and it's a bigger chunk of the steel than my Para 3 and I really like the steel. Of course I'm partial there as well.

sal

Thank you Sal. It is exciting for me to finally get my hands on this steel, and give it a workout. I've been waiting on this particular knife model, to do just that. :)

Can you tell us please, what the target range hardness is for this new SPY27?

[Enactive]

I've been carrying one for a few days now. Frankly, I could care less about the color, but I really like the design (of course I'm partial) and it's a bigger chunk of the steel than my Para 3 and I really like the steel. Of course I'm partial there as well.

sal

Thank you Sal. It is exciting for me to finally get my hands on this steel, and give it a workout. I've been waiting on this particular knife model, to do just that. :)

Can you tell us please, what the target range hardness is for this new SPY27?

IIRC BBB tested it around 62.

[Pokey]

If you're near the SFO, I saw one in the display case, today.

[Tucson Tom]

I like the new color, but don't think I'll get another Manix 2 LW until I work out the process for drilling out the rivets and replacing them with screws.

The best 'trick' I have found, Tom. Is to use a very small carbide burr in a Dremel. Slowly grinding a little bit of the head of the rivet off at a time. I grind some on one, and then move on to another. Never letting the rivet get hot. Rotating from one to another, until the top is so thin, it just pops off. Concentrating on the center, because of course that's the only place that it makes a connection. Then, I just push the stem through. No heat = no melt. No drill = no rotating! :D

Thanks!!

I was thinking of using a carbide end-mill (in my mill) or carbide burr in my Dremel. I just need to track down the screws I need to use. Once I get those, I'll have at it! I'm doing my Rex-45 LW first, then I'll get me one of these. What you say about not rotating makes sense and points to using the Dremel.

If I can just track down those screws.

[attila]

I like the new color, but don't think I'll get another Manix 2 LW until I work out the process for drilling out the rivets and replacing them with screws.

The best 'trick' I have found, Tom. Is to use a very small carbide burr in a Dremel. Slowly grinding a little bit of the head of the rivet off at a time. I grind some on one, and then move on to another. Never letting the rivet get hot. Rotating from one to another, until the top is so thin, it just pops off. Concentrating on the center, because of course that's the only place that it makes a connection. Then, I just push the stem through. No heat = no melt. No drill = no rotating! :D

Thanks!!

I was thinking of using a carbide end-mill (in my mill) or carbide burr in my Dremel. I just need to track down the screws I need to use. Once I get those, I'll have at it! I'm doing my Rex-45 LW first, then I'll get me one of these. What you say about not rotating makes sense and points to using the Dremel.

If I can just track down those screws.

I believe these are the best option for this job, as they should be just the right length. Unfortunately, they’re out of stock at the moment.
https://usaknifemaker.com/pivot-barrel- ... bh-ss.html

These other two options are a bit longer and I think require trimming, but at least they are in stock.
https://usaknifemaker.com/pivot-barrel- ... bh-ss.html
https://usaknifemaker.com/pivot-barrel- ... bh-ss.html

[Tucson Tom]

I like the new color, but don't think I'll get another Manix 2 LW until I work out the process for drilling out the rivets and replacing them with screws.

.....
If I can just track down those screws.

I believe these are the best option for this job, as they should be just the right length. Unfortunately, they’re out of stock at the moment.
https://usaknifemaker.com/pivot-barrel- ... bh-ss.html

These other two options are a bit longer and I think require trimming, but at least they are in stock.
https://usaknifemaker.com/pivot-barrel- ... bh-ss.html
https://usaknifemaker.com/pivot-barrel- ... bh-ss.html

This is wonderful. Thank you Atilla!

I can easily trim these to length on my lathe, so this is absolutely perfect. I'll place an order shortly.

[Buddafucco]

Cutlery Shoppe... https://cutleryshoppe.com/spyderco-c101 ... cp-handle/

[elena86]

Call me colour blind but it looks green to me not ... “mineral blue”...

[SteveMidwest]

Knife Joy dot com! :spyder:

https://knifejoy.com/spyderco-c101pcbl2 ... tocknotify

[Bolster]

Is there a thread discussing advantages of drilling rivets and replacing w screws? At this point i dont understand why youd do that.

[Sharp Guy]

Is there a thread discussing advantages of drilling rivets and replacing w screws? At this point i dont understand why youd do that.

So they can take it apart when the want. I haven't needed to take one apart yet but it is a nice option to have if you need it

[Tucson Tom]

Is there a thread discussing advantages of drilling rivets and replacing w screws? At this point i dont understand why youd do that.

My current Manix 2 LW has a sticky lock. Not bad enough where I feel like bugging Spyderco about it, but enough to irritate me. On top of that it is the Rex45 sprint, so I don't expect there is much chance of getting it replaced with one that works smoothly.

I have several G10 Manix 2 that are smooth as silk and it just bugs me that this one is the way it is, so I want to take it apart and find out what the problem is. I have already tried all the usual things (lube, letting it break in, etc.).

If it worked as nicely as my G10 Manix 2 knives, I wouldn't mess with it -- but there is Murphy's law for you. As soon as you buy something with rivets, you will need to take it apart.

[gpo1956]

I’ve watched a couple of videos where this mod is done, but for the life of me, I can’t remember why you have to remove and replace the factory pivot instead of just re-using it. Can someone remind me?

[Bolster]

If it worked as nicely as my G10 Manix 2 knives, I wouldn't mess with it -- but there is Murphy's law for you. As soon as you buy something with rivets, you will need to take it apart.

LOL, great response. OK, I get it, makes sense. Thanks!

[nerdlock]

Is there a thread discussing advantages of drilling rivets and replacing w screws? At this point i dont understand why youd do that.

This mod is a must with non-stainless tool steels like REX 45 and Maxamet where rust can develop at the pivot area of the blade. Only way to properly maintain that area in the Manix 2 LW series is to completely dismantle the knife and clean/put mineral oil/your choice CLP/rust protectant in there. Since it is riveted, though...

[JuPaul]

In stock at REC:
https://riversedgecutlery.com/products/ ... spy27.html

[Bolster]

Is there a thread discussing advantages of drilling rivets and replacing w screws? At this point i dont understand why youd do that.

This mod is a must with non-stainless tool steels like REX 45 and Maxamet where rust can develop at the pivot area of the blade. Only way to properly maintain that area in the Manix 2 LW series is to completely dismantle the knife and clean/put mineral oil/your choice CLP/rust protectant in there. Since it is riveted, though...

Aha ... gotcha. Smart thinkin'.