How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
Re: How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
Very pleased with both. Native might have an uneven sharpening grind and is a bit stiff. May break in and/or improve with cleaning. The Para 3 has a bumpy grind on the spine. Almost looks faceted as the light plays across it. Enjoying my first new Spyderco's since 1990.
Last edited by Tallastro on Mon Dec 14, 2020 3:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
Happy with mine! My Parata has the same lock cutout issue as others have reported. Difficult to find any problem at all with my UKPK. My wife pointed out that the plunge grind overlaps with the round hole on one side, but is tangential to it on the other side. Her powers of observation really impress me sometimes.
The funniest flaw to report is that someone failed to tap the show-side scale of my Efficient for left-hand carry. There are three faint circles instead of holes where the clip would attach.
I’m a righty, so it’s fine by me.
The funniest flaw to report is that someone failed to tap the show-side scale of my Efficient for left-hand carry. There are three faint circles instead of holes where the clip would attach.
I’m a righty, so it’s fine by me.
-Evan
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Re: How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
PS, warning to the other new Parata owners in here: don’t fling the blade shut with the lock disengaged. The edge can hit the spacers. I stupidly put a little chip in my edge doing this.
-Evan
Re: How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
Got my PM2 Maxamet today. Came with a nice sticker. Blade of center, but not too bad. Tried to re- center twice with little success.
Re: How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
I'm not able to get a photo yet, but here's a rundown.
Native 5: somewhat sloppy milling of the jimping on the spine of the lock bar. Otherwise, it's fine. It's actually in my pocket right now.
PM3--so far, I really can't tell. The area where the compression lock meets the blade seems to grind against the blade a tiny bit, but I'm wondering if that's more due to the DLC coating on the blade. It should break in and that no longer be an issue.
Byrd Robin 2 Stainless: I can tell there's a shadow of an engraving/pad print job of "PROCESS SAFETY FOCUS 2018". I suspect it's either an overrun for a safety award for a third party (that was polished off); or an error in the print/engraving. Oddly, the font used is awfully Spyderco-ish, so I'm curious if it may have been originally intended for an internal issue. But, from what I'm finding after a search, Perdue University held a big seminar on it in August of that year. That is all that is wrong--it is a perfect knife otherwise.
Native 5: somewhat sloppy milling of the jimping on the spine of the lock bar. Otherwise, it's fine. It's actually in my pocket right now.
PM3--so far, I really can't tell. The area where the compression lock meets the blade seems to grind against the blade a tiny bit, but I'm wondering if that's more due to the DLC coating on the blade. It should break in and that no longer be an issue.
Byrd Robin 2 Stainless: I can tell there's a shadow of an engraving/pad print job of "PROCESS SAFETY FOCUS 2018". I suspect it's either an overrun for a safety award for a third party (that was polished off); or an error in the print/engraving. Oddly, the font used is awfully Spyderco-ish, so I'm curious if it may have been originally intended for an internal issue. But, from what I'm finding after a search, Perdue University held a big seminar on it in August of that year. That is all that is wrong--it is a perfect knife otherwise.
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Re: How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
I just got my YoJumbo. It looks like it should except the grind is about a quarter inch higher on one side than the other. It's noticable. I don't have OCD, and it doesn't affect the function. I'm happy with it. I already like the design of this knife. I'm incredibly grateful that Spyderco gave me the opportunity to try this knife at this price.
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Re: How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
I watched Nick Shabazz disassembly video of the Parata. Ha had a production version but said he had a preproduction version earlier before getting the one he disassembled. He said there were changes but didnt say what.prog_knife wrote: PS, warning to the other new Parata owners in here: don’t fling the blade shut with the lock disengaged. The edge can hit the spacers. I stupidly put a little chip in my edge doing this.
Anyways, in his video the parata has an internal stop pin that should prevent this. I dont think mine has the internal stop pin. I cant be sure without taking it apart but I dont see it in there.
Im wondering if some of these seconds paratas dont have that stop pin.
I need to tear mine apart to see if that is actually the issue or not.
Edit:
I must have been tired when I watched it. Just went back to look at the video. The stop pin isnt internal, but it protrudes through the scale and is easy to see. Mine does not have the stop pin.
"Rome's greatest contribution to mathematics was the killing of Archimedes."
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Re: How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
Good detective work, VooDoo Child. Mine doesn't have the stop pin either.VooDooChild wrote: ↑Sat Dec 12, 2020 1:18 pmI watched Nick Shabazz disassembly video of the Parata. Ha had a production version but said he had a preproduction version earlier before getting the one he disassembled. He said there were changes but didnt say what.
Anyways, in his video the parata has an internal stop pin that should prevent this. I dont think mine has the internal stop pin. I cant be sure without taking it apart but I dont see it in there.
Im wondering if some of these seconds paratas dont have that stop pin.
I need to tear mine apart to see if that is actually the issue or not.
Edit:
I must have been tired when I watched it. Just went back to look at the video. The stop pin isnt internal, but it protrudes through the scale and is easy to see. Mine does not have the stop pin.
-Evan
Re: How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
Interesting about the Parata. I’ll have to check mine later today.
Re: How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
Well one of mine seems to be a dud.
I got a Manix XL with plans to put my green M4 Manix scales on once I get the micarta scales for the M4 knife.
The pivot was really tight, otherwise the knife appears flawless in every way.
Figured that was an easy enough fix. Nope. Broke my only two torx bits sized for the XL's pivot trying to loosen the pivot. Even heated it up the second time.
Since they're sold as is I may just cut my losses and sell it as is.
Shame, because I had some fun ideas for the knife. Green scales, grinding off the coarse handle jimping, straight spine mod, new hardware etc.
Still good luck overall. All the others from that shipment are great. Really excited about the Military...didn't realize how much I missed having one!
I got a Manix XL with plans to put my green M4 Manix scales on once I get the micarta scales for the M4 knife.
The pivot was really tight, otherwise the knife appears flawless in every way.
Figured that was an easy enough fix. Nope. Broke my only two torx bits sized for the XL's pivot trying to loosen the pivot. Even heated it up the second time.
Since they're sold as is I may just cut my losses and sell it as is.
Shame, because I had some fun ideas for the knife. Green scales, grinding off the coarse handle jimping, straight spine mod, new hardware etc.
Still good luck overall. All the others from that shipment are great. Really excited about the Military...didn't realize how much I missed having one!
Re: How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
Hey, Vivi, I have sometimes had good luck with this method to safely remove stuck/ tight/ thread-locked pivot screws:vivi wrote: ↑Sat Dec 12, 2020 3:42 pmWell one of mine seems to be a dud.
I got a Manix XL with plans to put my green M4 Manix scales on once I get the micarta scales for the M4 knife.
The pivot was really tight, otherwise the knife appears flawless in every way.
Figured that was an easy enough fix. Nope. Broke my only two torx bits sized for the XL's pivot trying to loosen the pivot. Even heated it up the second time.
Since they're sold as is I may just cut my losses and sell it as is.
Shame, because I had some fun ideas for the knife. Green scales, grinding off the coarse handle jimping, straight spine mod, new hardware etc.
Still good luck overall. All the others from that shipment are great. Really excited about the Military...didn't realize how much I missed having one!
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/ZnDyPxRB/20201211-131319-HDR.jpg
After placing my torx bit in the screw (with or preferably without the driver) and setting the knife on a secure and firm surface I take a tiny rubber mallet and lighly tap the bit. This has often loosened the stuck screw enough to then unscrew it without issue for me. Good luck.
I expect you maybe know this method, but only saw your mention of heating the screws but not the "tapping method."
Edited to add-- i usually do this from both sides before trying to unscrew either side.
Re: How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
Checked my Parata, it does not have the stop pin. When I first got it, it was very stiff opening. It is starting to wear in and is much improved on that front already.
Re: How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
I've got the blade centering near perfect on my PM2 after a little work and watching Youtube! Except for the little notch on the blade near the Spydie Hole,(ha ha), I feel I have a fantastic knife for a great price! I even had an extra Sandwashed Lynch Clip to put on it and it looks perfect. Thanks again Spyderco! Looking forward to next year's on-line SFO 2nds Sale.
Re: How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
Waterway looks good. I think the second status comes mostly in some rough finishing of the g10. My brother spotted the slightest inconsistency in the plunge grind but I never would have noticed without close examination. Way better than the plunge grind on my bark river bravo edc. It’s a very very nice knife. Wish I had the sheath but an old leather one will do until I end up getting Kydex later.
I also saw my brothers pm2 maxamet. He was one of the lucky ones. Slight off centering closed, does not appear to be warped, and some negligible damage to the g10 around the lanyard tube. Excellent for a second. Hope most others are so fortunate.
Thank you Spyderco.
I also saw my brothers pm2 maxamet. He was one of the lucky ones. Slight off centering closed, does not appear to be warped, and some negligible damage to the g10 around the lanyard tube. Excellent for a second. Hope most others are so fortunate.
Thank you Spyderco.
Current Spyderco: Native 5 LW s35vn; Delica zdp; Caly 3.5 zdp/CF; Chapparel FRN cts xhp; Southard 204p; Kapara s30v; Ikuchi s30v; Spydiechef lc200n, Waterway Lc200n; Manix 2 LW 20cv
Past Spyderco: Endura zdp; Manix 2 LW s110v; Paramilitary 2 s30v
Past Spyderco: Endura zdp; Manix 2 LW s110v; Paramilitary 2 s30v
Re: How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
Thanks for the tip. I'll try that once I get some more bits.Enactive wrote: ↑Sat Dec 12, 2020 3:53 pmHey, Vivi, I have sometimes had good luck with this method to safely remove stuck/ tight/ thread-locked pivot screws:vivi wrote: ↑Sat Dec 12, 2020 3:42 pmWell one of mine seems to be a dud.
I got a Manix XL with plans to put my green M4 Manix scales on once I get the micarta scales for the M4 knife.
The pivot was really tight, otherwise the knife appears flawless in every way.
Figured that was an easy enough fix. Nope. Broke my only two torx bits sized for the XL's pivot trying to loosen the pivot. Even heated it up the second time.
Since they're sold as is I may just cut my losses and sell it as is.
Shame, because I had some fun ideas for the knife. Green scales, grinding off the coarse handle jimping, straight spine mod, new hardware etc.
Still good luck overall. All the others from that shipment are great. Really excited about the Military...didn't realize how much I missed having one!
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/ZnDyPxRB/20201211-131319-HDR.jpg
After placing my torx bit in the screw (with or preferably without the driver) and setting the knife on a secure and firm surface I take a tiny rubber mallet and lighly tap the bit. This has often loosened the stuck screw enough to then unscrew it without issue for me. Good luck.
I expect you maybe know this method, but only saw your mention of heating the screws but not the "tapping method."
Edited to add-- i usually do this from both sides before trying to unscrew either side.
Re: How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
When I snatched my Native 5 and PM2 during the seconds sale my wife told me that the purchase would have to be part of our Christmas present budget which I was totally okay with. What I did not realize is that my wonderful wife (a Christmas and gift-giving fanatic) meant that I could not open the package until Christmas morning. So please send up a quick prayer that I won’t lose my entire mind knowing that there will be a box with two Spydies in it in my home for 11 days before I get to them. If I don’t update promptly on the 25th, assume that my eagerness got the best of me, my wife found out, and will soon be on TBI’s most wanted list for a double stabbing (two knives, not two people). :D
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Re: How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
Just got my K390 Endura and combo edge Efficient in. Honestly, I can't tell why the Endura was rejected. The blade has a slight straw/gold color to it, and there's a tiny little area that look like it may be pitting at the back of the jimping. Blade looks straight, and is well centered, and the edge grinds are nice and even and sharp. I don't get it, but I'm not gonna complain.
The Efficient just looks like it may have spent a bit too much time at the serration grinder, as the tips of the teeth are about an 1/8" higher than the plain edge portion of the blade. Still sharp as **** though.
Edited to add: It looks like the tip on the Efficient was unevenly ground too. Not a big deal at all, and it looks like something I can fix the first time I sharpen it.
The Efficient just looks like it may have spent a bit too much time at the serration grinder, as the tips of the teeth are about an 1/8" higher than the plain edge portion of the blade. Still sharp as **** though.
Edited to add: It looks like the tip on the Efficient was unevenly ground too. Not a big deal at all, and it looks like something I can fix the first time I sharpen it.
Chris
Haves: Lava, Delica 4 Sante Fe Stoneworks, Spy-DK x2,
Just say NO to lined FRN
Haves: Lava, Delica 4 Sante Fe Stoneworks, Spy-DK x2,
Just say NO to lined FRN
Re: How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
My Military finally came today! My overall assessment is that it's good to go, but there are some pretty noticeable flaws.
The action is quite stiff.. it is smooth, which is good, but definitely feels stiffer that the average Spyderco action. The detent is also very weak. Due to the stiff action and sloppy detent, this one is not easily flicked open.. which is fine by me, because I normally thumb-roll my knives open anyway! With the action being as tight as it is, and being tip-down carry, I'm not especially concerned about the weak detent causing any safety concerns with the blade opening up on me unintentionally. There are also a number of faint scratches on the pocket clip and some wonky machining on the forward jimping.
Centering is quite good compared with some of the seconds that I've seen. Other than the odd mark on the choil jimping, the blade looks pristine.. grinds are even and the knife is as sharp as any "first" that I've received. The liner-lock locks up securely, with no play. For the money, I'm really pleased with this knife!
The action is quite stiff.. it is smooth, which is good, but definitely feels stiffer that the average Spyderco action. The detent is also very weak. Due to the stiff action and sloppy detent, this one is not easily flicked open.. which is fine by me, because I normally thumb-roll my knives open anyway! With the action being as tight as it is, and being tip-down carry, I'm not especially concerned about the weak detent causing any safety concerns with the blade opening up on me unintentionally. There are also a number of faint scratches on the pocket clip and some wonky machining on the forward jimping.
Centering is quite good compared with some of the seconds that I've seen. Other than the odd mark on the choil jimping, the blade looks pristine.. grinds are even and the knife is as sharp as any "first" that I've received. The liner-lock locks up securely, with no play. For the money, I'm really pleased with this knife!
Rick H.
..well, that escalated quickly..
..well, that escalated quickly..
Re: How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
Update on my Manix XL. Soaked the knife in boiling water for a minute and that loosened up the thread locker enough to pop it open. Time to start grinding away at things, then when its all set it'll inherit the Manix M4's green dyed scales.
There was soooo much loc-tite on this thing. Even after soaking I had to use extra leverage on all the screws. I've never seen a knife with so much.
Either way I'm happy. The knife operated smoothly once it got loosened up. Inspecting everything I see nothing wrong with it now.
There was soooo much loc-tite on this thing. Even after soaking I had to use extra leverage on all the screws. I've never seen a knife with so much.
Either way I'm happy. The knife operated smoothly once it got loosened up. Inspecting everything I see nothing wrong with it now.
Re: How Do Your Factory Seconds Look?
Very cool! Welcome to the forum! :cool: :spyder:Tallastro wrote: ↑Sat Dec 12, 2020 11:31 amVery pleased with both. Native might have an uneven sharpening grind and is a bit stiff. May break in and/or improve with cleaning. The Para 3 has a bumpy grind on the spine. Almost looks faceted as the light plays across it. Enjoying my first new Spyderco's since 1990.