Power Lock

[vivi]

I think a scaled down Szabo Folder could be an interesting candidate as well. The lock should be strong enough for the design and it would be a less complicated solution for implementing the self-close.

[Wartstein]

Power Lock Paramilitary2 with thinner blade stock maybe? :)

Not bad... both the lock and the thinner stock... :rolleyes:

[BobABQ]

I’d try a Millie, only because I want a BACKLOCK Military.

I am not an engineer. I have trouble wrapping my head around how having more parts does not create weak points that could fail. The backlock is simple in that regard.

It looks like the power lock doesn’t catch onto a notch in the blade. It appears to more or less wedges under the pivot pin for the intermediate rocker piece. It is sort of like the ball bearing lock but not really.

[TomAiello]

My first thought was Manix, but maybe a Manix XLPL (for power lock) would be best?

Manix XL was my first thought.

[Theldraskien]

C95 Manix. I missed out on that one and the pic Vivi posted recently of the green sprint looks great. With some of the modern CQI improvements to the platform and a power lock tossed in I think that would make for an amazing piece. SPY27 for the steel. Cobalt blue scales.

[vivi]

C95 Manix. I missed out on that one and the pic Vivi posted recently of the green sprint looks great. With some of the modern CQI improvements to the platform and a power lock tossed in I think that would make for an amazing piece. SPY27 for the steel. Cobalt blue scales.

I like the way you think :D

[Cambertree]

Can someone who has a knife with the Powerlock confirm if it is tightly locked up when open? Or does it have a little vertical play, like some of the Seki lockbacks?

The two that I had had zero (vertical) up and down play.

Great, thanks for the confirmation!

[ZrowsN1s]

I suggested another Tatanka for some of the reasons others mentioned. Like what's the point of a power lock on a blade that doesn't need a lock with that strength? Other than novelty (which I actually understand the desire for).
Other reason being I have a desire for a big ol' knife that I didn't have when the Tatanka was around.
It's also an existing design. And I think a good steel geared for hard use (like 4v or something else) and maybe something besides plain black G-10 would give the Tatanka an appeal the VG-10 Black G-10 version didn't have.

[nerdlock]

I’d try a Millie, only because I want a BACKLOCK Military.

I am not an engineer. I have trouble wrapping my head around how having more parts does not create weak points that could fail. The backlock is simple in that regard.

Hmmm, just a thought, but maybe it will help in eliminating blade play doc? I've had my Delica develop that and several others report that some Seki backlocks have an unfortunate tendency to develop play after some time...

[Mushroom]

What do you consider the ideal model?

sal

Shaman. Or that no choil Shaman you hinted at.

I was scrolling down to see if anyone else would suggest this. A really tough blade shape combined with a really tough lock. Cool combo.

"The Shaman Power Lock". It sounds good doesn't it?

The Power Lock can't be implemented into certain designs for the same reasons a Back lock can't. If I recall correctly, Sal has already confirmed that as is, a Back lock Shaman wouldn't be possible. I have doubts a Power lock would be possible in a Shaman without some noticeable redesigning.

I think a Manix XL would be a perfect candidate for a Power Lock.

[Doc Dan]

I’d try a Millie, only because I want a BACKLOCK Military.

I am not an engineer. I have trouble wrapping my head around how having more parts does not create weak points that could fail. The backlock is simple in that regard.

It looks like the power lock doesn’t catch onto a notch in the blade. It appears to more or less wedges under the pivot pin for the intermediate rocker piece. It is sort of like the ball bearing lock but not really.

It has two interacting rocker arms and One does contact the tang. That is what locks the blade. That piece is then jointed to the other. It is a very strong lock. It is just not simple.

Another issue is this...would dirt and crud get into those joints and prevent a solid lockup? I know of no one who’s tested this.

[Doc Dan]

I’d try a Millie, only because I want a BACKLOCK Military.

I am not an engineer. I have trouble wrapping my head around how having more parts does not create weak points that could fail. The backlock is simple in that regard.

Hmmm, just a thought, but maybe it will help in eliminating blade play doc? I've had my Delica develop that and several others report that some Seki backlocks have an unfortunate tendency to develop play after some time...

It certainly would stop up and down play.

[Evil D]

Another issue is this...would dirt and crud get into those joints and prevent a solid lockup? I know of no one who’s tested this.

I was looking at the Chinook and was surprised to see the big opening at the top of the handle behind the blade. I could see crud getting in there for sure. I've had pocket lint collect in the tang of a back lock and prevent it from locking, and not every lock is immune to this sort of thing but even just aesthetically I really don't like that big hole on the Power Lock. I suppose it could also be easy to rinse out though.

[Doc Dan]

Another issue is this...would dirt and crud get into those joints and prevent a solid lockup? I know of no one who’s tested this.

I was looking at the Chinook and was surprised to see the big opening at the top of the handle behind the blade. I could see crud getting in there for sure. I've had pocket lint collect in the tang of a back lock and prevent it from locking, and not every lock is immune to this sort of thing but even just aesthetically I really don't like that big hole on the Power Lock. I suppose it could also be easy to rinse out though.

Yeah, I had a hard time envisioning my using that lock for some of the things I used to do that got a knife really dirty. I could see all sorts of things getting in all of those crevasses and joints. I was looking at that lock and thinking, "surely, no one put this lock to the dirt test before calling it hard use." But, I do not know. I could be wrong.

[Cl1ff]

I joined this forum (long time lurker) just to comment on this topic.

My Vote: 7/8 or 3/4 sized Tatanka.

I love my Tatanka (I've purchased 3, mine, a spare, and a gift) and would like a slightly smaller version, still with the Power Lock. The Tantaka is a little too scary in public and a little big for small tasks, but I really do like the blade shape and overall ergonomics. It's currently my hiking/hunting/outdoor folder.

I love the design and use theory behind Spyderco’s Tatanka. It’s interested for me some time and I have been considering looking for one on the secondary market.
The name also has its own appeal to me.
I study paleontology at an enthusiast’s level and find that many aspects of knife functionality can be observed in the biomechanics of prehistoric animals.
For example, a dubious dinosaur taxon that may or may not be a juvenile of the more popular species, Triceratops, has been given the name “Tatankaceratops.” Now, Triceratops possessed the largest skull of any known land animal.
It was huge, heavy, and pointy to protect from other dinosaurs like Tyrannosaurus or even rival individuals of the same kind.
Much like the powerlock, which essentially enhances the regular back-lock’s ability to hold a longer and heavier blade, Triceratops and its relatives fused the first few bones in the neck to hold the weight of their massive skulls.
To bring this full circle, the aforementioned Tatankaceratops is, for all intents and purposes, a smaller version of Triceratops. In effect, it is to the proposed smaller Tatanka as Triceratops is to the original larger version.
This sort of parallel brings a smile to my face. Especially because there are so many more like it. Needless to say, I’m more than on board with both more powerlocks and more Tatankas, whether that be size or material variations.

[Evil D]

Another issue is this...would dirt and crud get into those joints and prevent a solid lockup? I know of no one who’s tested this.

I was looking at the Chinook and was surprised to see the big opening at the top of the handle behind the blade. I could see crud getting in there for sure. I've had pocket lint collect in the tang of a back lock and prevent it from locking, and not every lock is immune to this sort of thing but even just aesthetically I really don't like that big hole on the Power Lock. I suppose it could also be easy to rinse out though.

Yeah, I had a hard time envisioning my using that lock for some of the things I used to do that got a knife really dirty. I could see all sorts of things getting in all of those crevasses and joints. I was looking at that lock and thinking, "surely, no one put this lock to the dirt test before calling it hard use." But, I do not know. I could be wrong.

Yep, these are the sort of things I'd like to test out on a more affordable model than a Tatanka or Chinook.

[Menipo]

Hi ThrottleCable,

Welcome to our forum.

What size are you suggesting?

sal

I would love to add a new Tatanka (maybe in a high-end steel) to my collection but only if it is manufactured in the original size. A downsized Tatanka with a 4" blade (or so) would look to me much like a Police 4

From an user (not collector) point of view, if the Endura, the Millie or the Police 4 are already scaring enough for many people in urban places, opening a Tatanka in an office or a picnic in the park would immediately provoke screams of panic :D So I see it as a knife for demanding outdoor activities (hunting and the alike) where a Millie or Police 4 on steroids would be more efficient. The +/- 4" folding blade niche is already (and perfectly) covered IMHO with the Millie and the P4.

[tomcatt1]

What do you consider the ideal model?

sal

Shaman - still can't get used to the bump hitting my finger while using the compression lock.

[ThrottleCable]

Hi ThrottleCable,

Welcome to our forum.

What size are you suggesting?

sal

I would love to add a new Tatanka (maybe in a high-end steel) to my collection but only if it is manufactured in the original size. A downsized Tatanka with a 4" blade (or so) would look to me much like a Police 4

From an user (not collector) point of view, if the Endura, the Millie or the Police 4 are already scaring enough for many people in urban places, opening a Tatanka in an office or a picnic in the park would immediately provoke screams of panic :D So I see it as a knife for demanding outdoor activities (hunting and the alike) where a Millie or Police 4 on steroids would be more efficient. The +/- 4" folding blade niche is already (and perfectly) covered IMHO with the Millie and the P4.

I would say the strength of the Tatanka's blade tip is sufficiently greater than the others you list that I would always prefer the 4.25" Tatanka Calf to the Military or Police models when outdoors, or wanting a larger knife. As I said in an earlier post, we have plenty of delicately-tipped Spydercos now, not so many with heavy tips.

I find a folder much more convienent to deal with than a fixed blade, so my fixed blade ends up staying in my bag/pack and my folder gets used all the time. The Tatanka makes a good fixed blade replacement for me for most uses, but is pretty big for others. I think a smaller one, that's not been turned into one of the other, already extant, models with thin blades, high flat grinds and slicey tips would be my perfect hiking/hunting/outdoor knife.

[Menipo]

I would say the strength of the Tatanka's blade tip is sufficiently greater than the others you list that I would always prefer the 4.25" Tatanka Calf to the Military or Police models when outdoors, or wanting a larger knife. As I said in an earlier post, we have plenty of delicately-tipped Spydercos now, not so many with heavy tips.

I find a folder much more convienent to deal with than a fixed blade, so my fixed blade ends up staying in my bag/pack and my folder gets used all the time. The Tatanka makes a good fixed blade replacement for me for most uses, but is pretty big for others. I think a smaller one, that's not been turned into one of the other, already extant, models with thin blades, high flat grinds and slicey tips would be my perfect hiking/hunting/outdoor knife.

For those tasks that require a strong(er) tip (leveraging, percussing, drilling) I prefer the structural integrity of a fixed blade.