Might as well jump: RockJumper first impressions

[zuludelta]

If Spyderco's “Reveal 5” marketing event earlier this year had a theme, it might have very well been “Wharncliffes”. The Reveal 5 online catalogue, which contained previews of sprint runs and production models slated for release in the summer of 2020, prominently featured new Wharncliffe-bladed models.

Sal Glesser's Swick 5 and Swick 6, Marcin Slysz's Swayback, and Michael D. Janich's Yojumbo were long-teased models from established, fan-favourite designers and the Canis had all the hype of being counter-terrorism expert Kelly McCann's first Spyderco collaboration behind it—facts reflected by the exuberant online reception of the news of their impending release. And then there was Sal Glesser's RockJumper: the confirmation of the knife's upcoming retail debut was also greeted positively (as one would expect from any new Glesser design), but it did not escape my notice that it seemed to have generated the least amount of anticipation among the new Wharncliffe models, at least from the online Spyderco community.

I will admit to initially feeling a bit unenthused with the RockJumper's reveal. I had been using a plain-edged Delica 4 Wharncliffe—another Sal Glesser design—for a few years as part of my work knife rotation to that point (I work at a warehouse and a knife is my primary hand tool), and at first blush, it was not immediately apparent to me that the RockJumper offered anything significantly different from that model. The marketing copy touted the RockJumper's “full-length” 7.8 centimetre (3.1 inch) cutting edge and minimal ricasso, but these features addressed non-issues to me. In practice, I find that the Delica 4 Wharncliffe's 6.4 centimetres (2.5 inches) of cutting edge is sufficient for most warehouse knife tasks, and its prominent ricasso has never really been a problem in my work context.

But then I noticed the RockJumper's handle design, and my interest was piqued.

Those of you who are familiar with my prior posts will recall that I am big fan of the handle designs of Sal Glesser's Alcyone, Polestar, and Li'l Temperance 3. Hand-filling yet compact, the handle designs for those knives represent what I think is an ergonomic evolution from Glesser's previous work on the Delica and Endura family of folding knives. A closer inspection of the pictures in the Reveal 5 catalogue showed that the RockJumper had a handle similar to those newer models, and so after some consideration, I signed up for an e-mail “in-stock” notification for the RockJumper from Blades Canada, a.k.a. Warriors and Wonders.

The Spyderco RockJumper (Plain Edge variant)

After a little mix-up with Canada Post, I finally received my plain edge RockJumper two days ago. And I have to say, I'm very glad that I pulled the trigger on the purchase (you can stop reading now if this is all you wanted to hear, everything else that follows will just be details).

With an overall length of 19 centimetres (7.5 inches), a total blade length of 7.9 centimetres (3.1 inches), a cutting edge of 7.1 centimetres (2.8 inches), a blade stock of 0.3 centimetres (0.12 inches), and a weight of 85 grams (3 ounces), the RockJumper is a bit larger and heavier than the Delica 4 Wharncliffe (with its 18.1 cm total length, 7.3 cm blade length, 6.4 cm cutting edge length, 0.25 cm blade stock, and 68g weight).

The RockJumper (3rd from top) compared to the Dragonfly 2 Wharncliffe (top), Delica 4 Wharncliffe (2nd from top), and Endura 4 Wharncliffe (bottom)

But while the gross differences in dimensions between the two models do not seem so significant on paper, they are much more noticeable in the actual handling. The RockJumper's handle unquestionably feels more “hand-filling” than the Delica 4 Wharncliffe's due to its height and general shape.

A cursory examination of the RockJumper will readily invite comparisons to the Wharncliffe variants of the Dragonfly 2, Delica 4, and Endura 4 due to the shared blade shape, VG-10 steel construction, and FRN handle scales but I think a more appropriate juxtaposition, particularly with the ergonomics, is with the lesser-known and vastly underrated Polestar and Alcyone.

The RockJumper (middle) compared to the Alcyone (top) and Polestar (bottom)

The relatively neutral forward scallops and gentle palm swell of the RockJumper's handle especially mirror those of the Polestar's: The former's silhouette and “cockpit”—the operating arc defined by the Trademark Opening Hole and its relation to the pivot—correspond to that of the latter's on an almost one-to-one basis, with the only major difference being a more abrupt “hook” at the end of the RockJumper's grip (a feature shared with the Li'l Temperance 3, another recent Sal Glesser design that handles similarly).

The RockJumper (bottom) compared to the Li'l Temperance 3 (top)

I have yet to use the RockJumper at work—it arrived in my mailbox on my day off and have only carried it on a short hike—but given how useful I've found Spyderco's Wharncliffe blades to be at my warehouse job and my positive prior experiences with the Polestar and Alcyone, I fully expect it to be a reliable addition to my work knife rotation.

The RockJumper (middle) compared to the Q Ball (top) and Yojimbo 2 (bottom)

I plan on using the RockJumper as one of my work knives for the remainder of the year, and will probably post a full long-term review sometime in 2021. Stay tuned.

[Doc Dan]

How does it feel in hand compared to your Delica?

[sal]

Hi Zuludelta,

Thanx for the time and short review. I am impressed and appreciate your understanding of design, and your kind words.

sal

[zuludelta]

How does it feel in hand compared to your Delica?

It feels more comfortable due to the more rounded contours and just generally larger dimensions. However, I think the differences will only become truly pronounced during extended cutting sessions.

I use my knife a lot at work (maybe a few hundred times per shift), but the actual instances of cutting only take up a few seconds at a time: a typical sequence for me would be (1) position box for cutting, (2) deploy knife, (3) cut display window in box, (4) close knife, (5) transfer box to shelf or another pallet, (6) repeat sequence several hundred times LOL.

Because of the nature of my most common work cutting tasks, I find that ease of deployment and gross handling (particularly while wearing work gloves) to be more important than, say, the finer points of ergonomics. Your priorities may vary.

[zuludelta]

Hi Zuludelta,

Thanx for the time and short review. I am impressed and appreciate your understanding of design, and your kind words.

sal

Thanks Sal! As someone who uses knives for his livelihood, I just want to say that I genuinely appreciate your work. Purpose-driven design makes a difference in the real-world!

[zuludelta]

Impression updates after one week of work use & carry:

So I used the RockJumper all week as my sole work knife. For those unfamiliar with my work context, I work in a warehouse setting and my job sees me use a knife hundreds of times a day to cut cardboard, polyester & polypropylene pallet straps, and clear plastic pallet wrap. This is NOT sustained cutting, however (that is, I am not in a fixed station for hours doing nothing but cutting). Rather, the cutting is integrated into various dynamic tasks, requiring that I repeatedly deploy, use, and pocket the knife in the course of accomplishing said tasks (I think this is an important contextual note with regards to ergonomics & size/portability).

This cutting is done primarily while wearing latex-coated, insulated work gloves (in S/M sizing), sometimes in temperatures as low as –25°C (–13°F).

I also occasionally have to use a knife in very cramped, confined spaces with poor lighting, or while maintaining the ever-important "three points of contact" on a ladder.

With all that preamble out of the way, how did the RockJumper perform?

It performed quite well. The Wharncliffe blade is ground thin enough to make going through cardboard a breeze, but it still has enough thickness to inspire confidence when cutting through heavy-duty polypropylene pallet straps. Cutting these straps sometimes requires levering/torquing the blade spine against a relatively fixed surface—a motion that can damage an edge or even outright break thinner blades. After a week of heavy work use, the RockJumper's blade still slices through a held sheet of office paper with only a hint of drag.

In terms of handling & portability, the RockJumper feels roughly similar to the Yojimbo 2 and the Li'l Temperance 3, two mainstays in my work knife rotation. That is to say, the handle has enough height, width & texturing so that I don't feel like I have to really pinch it to have a secure grip. At the same time, it isn't so bulky when folded in pocket that it gets in the way. Compared to my trusty Delica 4 Wharncliffe (another work knife rotation regular), the RockJumper is slightly more bulky in pocket, but is also slightly more comfortable to use. It's a fair trade-off for me, but I know others may have differing opinions and priorities.

The combination of the handle shape, handle texture, Wharncliffe blade shape, the blade's thumb ramp, and the knife's size makes it very easy to get a feel for where the RockJumper's tip and edge are in space and in relation to one's body at all times. Having readily-interpretable tactile cues built into a knife is very, very important to me in terms of efficiency and safety since I use one in a very fast-paced work environment, oftentimes in close proximity to other people and heavy machinery.

Anyway, that's it for my first impressions update. I think the RockJumper makes for an excellent warehouse work knife, a fine alternative to the Delica 4 Wharncliffe, and just about equivalent to the Yojimbo 2 (read my review here) and Li'l Temperance 3 as far as pure utility, at least for my purposes.

[DSH007]

Hey Zulu, thanks for sharing your thoughts on the Rockjumper.. my first impressions, like yours, have been immensely favorable. One of the key selling points for me was the similarity in handle shape with the Lil Temp 3, which is also a favorite of mine. Those more neutral handle shapes really do it for me.. on models with finger grooves, my fingers sometimes just don't like to do as they're told..

I typically prefer PE, but I went with the SE model Rockjumper.. mostly because I have so little experience with it vs PE.. and also because of the large number of vocal members here on the forum that sing it's praises. I have to say, I've been quite impressed so far with how versatile the performance of the serrated edge has been. I don't know that it will ever outright replace PE for me, but having carried the SE Rockjumper quite a bit these past weeks, I have to admit that I like it a lot more than I was expecting to. I notice your pictures feature all PE knives.. have you used, or given any consideration to using, an SE blade? Seems to me like it would excel in your work environment, especially with regard to quickly cutting through pallet straps. Idk, I don't work in a warehouse, so I may be way off-base. I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on PE vs. SE as they perform in a warehouse environment.. the Rockjumper seems like it would be a great platform for a side-by-side comparison/review of the two edge types if you were ever to pick up a SE version later on down the road..

Anyways.. thanks again for sharing your initial thoughts.. looking forward to your long-term use review! :)

[dj moonbat]

As I mentioned in another thread, a week or so of pocket time has vaulted the Rockjumper to Numero Uno on my list of favorite Spydies. It just feels *right* no matter what I’m doing.

[sal]

As demonstrated by EvilD, a Spydereco serrated edge performs better when sharpened with a Sharpmaker.

sal

[zuludelta]

.I notice your pictures feature all PE knives.. have you used, or given any consideration to using, an SE blade? Seems to me like it would excel in your work environment, especially with regard to quickly cutting through pallet straps. Idk, I don't work in a warehouse, so I may be way off-base. I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on PE vs. SE as they perform in a warehouse environment.. the Rockjumper seems like it would be a great platform for a side-by-side comparison/review of the two edge types if you were ever to pick up a SE version later on down the road..

I actually used to be an "all-serrated, all the time" guy :) For years, my main work knife was a Native in combo edge, and I still use one at work at least a couple of days a month (that old Native was one of my very first Spydercos, so I have a sentimental attachment to the design).

I actually still carry a serrated blade as my back-up knife at work—a serrated Manbug lives on the keychain attached to my forklift keys and most work days, I also carry a fully serrated Tasman Salt 2 in my back pocket to supplement whatever primary knife I have in my right front pocket—the Tasman Salt 2 is my designated heavy-duty polypropylene strap cutter. Nothing beats a serrated hawkbill for cutting straps, netting, rope, and cordage, in my experience.

For this informal test of the RockJumper, however, I wanted to use it as my sole work knife. I wanted to see if it could handle everything I normally use a knife for at work. And it did!

And your assumption is right, properly-ground serrated blades (particularly Spyderco's SpyderEdge models) can work very well for warehouse-type work tasks. But it depends on the material one is cutting.

What had me switching from "all-SE, all the time" to using mostly PE wharncliffes at my job was a change with my work situation. I used to work in a department where the primary materials I cut were pallet straps, plastic pallet wrap, rope & netting—materials for which SE is preeminently suited (the strap-to-cardboard cutting ratio was probably something like 90% straps to 10% cardboard).

Late last year, however, I switched to a different department, where the strap-to-cardboard cutting ratio is reversed (90% cardboard to 10% straps). And this isn't regular cardboard, either. This is thick, multilayer industrial cardboard that is frequently very damp and very prone to bunching up into dense little crenulations when I put my SE blades to them.

What was happening was perhaps similar to Michael Janich's observation when using SE blades when he was conducting his legendary "Porkman" tests: the points on the SE knives were holding onto and displacing the top layer of material (loose clothing in the case of the Porkman, the first couple of layers of wet cardboard in my case) instead of going through the rest of the material (which makes sense from a physics standpoint, less resistance, etc.).

Additionally (and perhaps more significantly), a lot of gunk and residue was sticking to the scallops in my SE blade—significantly more than what sticks to a PE blade—which would then find their way to the inside of the handle when I closed the knife. On at least one occasion, this accumulated gunk & residue prevented my knife from properly locking open.

Given the very fast-paced nature of my job, I'd rather not spend any extra time picking gunk out of my work knife—at least with a PE blade, I can get rid of most of the gunk on the blade with a quick wipe on my work pants. I'm not exaggerating when I say that a few seconds saved here and there can make the difference between finishing on time & doing overtime.

Don't take any of this to mean that I think PE is "superior" to SE, of course. For one thing, I find myself needing to sharpen my work knives very slightly more often (given the same steel and equivalent geometry, an SE blade will almost always hold a working edge longer than its PE counterpart). All this just reinforces my belief in the "use the right tool for the job" approach: SE blades worked better for what I used to do, but PE blades work better for what I currently do. If I ever go back to my old department, the SE Tasman Salt 2 will likely once again be my primary work knife and the PE wharncliffe will become the back-up.

[zuludelta]

As I mentioned in another thread, a week or so of pocket time has vaulted the Rockjumper to Numero Uno on my list of favorite Spydies. It just feels *right* no matter what I’m doing.

Yup, it handles great for sure.

I can see it becoming one of the more popular Seki City models alongside the Delica, Endura, and Dragonfly, especially once the planned leaf-blade variant is released. I would love a blacked-out version of the standard Wharncliffe myself, and a Salt version in LC200N would probably find a place in the market.

[James Y]

I always enjoy your posts and sharing of your experiences, zuludelta.

Jim

[dj moonbat]

As demonstrated by EvilD, a Spydereco serrated edge performs better when sharpened with a Sharpmaker.

sal

My RJ is my first SE knife, and it took me a while to overcome the idea that I would have to spend a bunch of time learning to sharpen something new. (I have already spent significant time and aggravation learning to sharpen plane blades, chisels, saws, and of course PE knives.)

But the Sharpmaker and SE blades go together like peanut butter and jelly. Maybe not on knives with finer serrations, but on the Spyderco serrations, it’s easier to sharpen SE than PE on the Sharpmaker for sure. It’s easier than PE on stones, too. I’m getting radically sharp edges with no practice.

I have no idea how well one can sharpen serrations with slip stones or round files. Maybe I could do better if I really learned how to work that system. But as I mentioned at the top, learning a new sharpening method was the obstacle to me getting a SE knife in the first place. And honestly, I have no reason to believe that I could improve on these results.

[DSH007]

Thank you for the very detailed response zuludelta, I appreciate the insight! Personally, I have little occasion to, or need really, to cut large quantities of cardboard, so having the ability to do so as efficiently as possible has always been a secondary concern for me. Given the scenarios you describe above though, it definitely seems like PE is the way to go for heavy-duty cardboard tasks!

I hear what you're saying about material getting caught up in the serrations. For years and years, I refused to carry serrated knives for this reason because my only experience with them were with, shall we say.. less refined.. designs *cough Kershaw Leek #shinyfootprints cough*.. I like the idea of "serrated" in theory, but I never found chiseling a miniature saw into section of blade to be very practical and sure enough, it just plain didn't seem to be able to cut anything.. and if it did, it would snag up and collect material like nobody's business..

Spyderco's Spyderedge has really changed my mind on how useful serrated blades can be. From what limited overall experience I have with them, I think Spyderco does serrated better than most.. Seems to me the shallower the serrations are, the better the performance and Spyderco's less aggressive/shallower serrations lend themselves to cutting so much better than other makers' serrated knives. I have a BM 940 combo edge also.. I actually really like the serrations on that, again because they are shallow, they seem to cut better. I'll probably always be a PE guy.. though I'm coming around to what serrations can be when they're done right.

But I definitely understand your point regarding snagging and heavy-duty cardboard cutting and you've thoroughly convinced me that PE is the way to go for that task! I can absolutely get behind "the right tool for the job!" Can't go wrong carrying backup knives for various tasks either!

[Wartstein]

.

....

Late last year, however, I switched to a different department, where the strap-to-cardboard cutting ratio is reversed (90% cardboard to 10% straps). And this isn't regular cardboard, either. This is thick, multilayer industrial cardboard that is frequently very damp and very prone to bunching up into dense little crenulations when I put my SE blades to them.

What was happening was perhaps similar to Michael Janich's observation when using SE blades when he was conducting his legendary "Porkman" tests: the points on the SE knives were holding onto and displacing the top layer of material (loose clothing in the case of the Porkman, the first couple of layers of wet cardboard in my case) instead of going through the rest of the material (which makes sense from a physics standpoint, less resistance, etc.).

Additionally (and perhaps more significantly), a lot of gunk and residue was sticking to the scallops in my SE blade—significantly more than what sticks to a PE blade—which would then find their way to the inside of the handle when I closed the knife. On at least one occasion, this accumulated gunk & residue prevented my knife from properly locking open.

.....

Thanks for posting this specific experience with Spydercos SE!! :)
Actually, from my own experience I got pretty convinced lately that Sypdercos SE almost always works better than PE for me personally.
Might sound funny, but since I still love my PE Spydies I am actually almost looking deliberately for tasks where PE might still outperform the spyderedge...

Anyway: MY personal Rock Jumper will certainly come in SE

[TkoK83Spy]

Late last year, however, I switched to a different department, where the strap-to-cardboard cutting ratio is reversed (90% cardboard to 10% straps). And this isn't regular cardboard, either. This is thick, multilayer industrial cardboard that is frequently very damp and very prone to bunching up into dense little crenulations when I put my SE blades to them.

What was happening was perhaps similar to Michael Janich's observation when using SE blades when he was conducting his legendary "Porkman" tests: the points on the SE knives were holding onto and displacing the top layer of material (loose clothing in the case of the Porkman, the first couple of layers of wet cardboard in my case) instead of going through the rest of the material (which makes sense from a physics standpoint, less resistance, etc.).

Additionally (and perhaps more significantly), a lot of gunk and residue was sticking to the scallops in my SE blade—significantly more than what sticks to a PE blade—which would then find their way to the inside of the handle when I closed the knife. On at least one occasion, this accumulated gunk & residue prevented my knife from properly locking open.

Given the very fast-paced nature of my job, I'd rather not spend any extra time picking gunk out of my work knife—at least with a PE blade, I can get rid of most of the gunk on the blade with a quick wipe on my work pants. I'm not exaggerating when I say that a few seconds saved here and there can make the difference between finishing on time & doing overtime.

Nice little review you've got going on here so far! You and I share very similar cutting tasks when it comes to work, and I couldn't agree with you more here when talking about the job and using SE knives. I've got the SE Wharnie Delica, got it for a great price and figured now is the time to really give SE a try at work. Thus far, my results have been kind of underwhelming overall. The issue of cardboard bunching up when damp, constantly having to clean tape and gunk out of the serrations really slows me down compared to a PE knife a lot of the time.

I know the serrations patterns/scallops seem to differ a little here and there on certain models, or where they are manufactured so that could always play into this as well. The serrations on my knife are quite pointy and snag at the tips.

I've been following this sharpening thread pretty closely lately viewtopic.php?f=2&t=84678
I believe within the last page or two, Vivi and BBturbo have reprofiled their SE knives, which in turn had rounded those snag points a bit and they seem to be having great results with slicing and especially with cardboard. If I can find the time while at home, I plan on giving that try with my knife and see how things turn out. I can definitely understand your frustrations! Maybe give a reprofile a chance on those SE's and see how it performs? I, like you, really expected it to be great work knife...so hopefully that SE potential is there!

[Evil D]

I have no idea how well one can sharpen serrations with slip stones or round files. Maybe I could do better if I really learned how to work that system. But as I mentioned at the top, learning a new sharpening method was the obstacle to me getting a SE knife in the first place. And honestly, I have no reason to believe that I could improve on these results.

If people are getting sharper edges on SE with some other method I'd sure like to see how they do it. Maybe a paper wheel on a bench grinder or something like that may do a crazy good job? The edges I get on SE from my Sharpmaker rival any that I've felt regardless of edge type.

[dj moonbat]

I have no idea how well one can sharpen serrations with slip stones or round files. Maybe I could do better if I really learned how to work that system. But as I mentioned at the top, learning a new sharpening method was the obstacle to me getting a SE knife in the first place. And honestly, I have no reason to believe that I could improve on these results.

If people are getting sharper edges on SE with some other method I'd sure like to see how they do it. Maybe a paper wheel on a bench grinder or something like that may do a crazy good job? The edges I get on SE from my Sharpmaker rival any that I've felt regardless of edge type.

Yeah, even after years of practice it’s rare for me to get a PE knife sharper on stones than I’ve been getting SE on the Sharpmaker with no practice at all. And on the Sharpmaker, which I’ve also had for years, I’ve never gotten a PE knife sharper than SE. That’s probably just because I worry so much about dubbing the tips that my pull stroke is jacked up, but still it’s true: It’s EASIER to sharpen all those serrations somehow than it is to sharpen a simple bevel.

I didn’t really understand the Sharpmaker hype until getting an SE knife. Now I get it.

So, uh, to circle back to the Rockjumper: in SE, it’s a great knife. Properly sharpened—which is surprisingly easy to do—it could easily become your go-to EDC. It did for me.

[zuludelta]

I always enjoy your posts and sharing of your experiences, zuludelta.

Jim

Thanks!

But I definitely understand your point regarding snagging and heavy-duty cardboard cutting and you've thoroughly convinced me that PE is the way to go for that task! I can absolutely get behind "the right tool for the job!" Can't go wrong carrying backup knives for various tasks either!

I encourage you to try an extended SE vs. PE comparison for youself, though, especially now that you have an SE RockJumper. Your experience might significantly differ from mine (see Wartstein's post above). Personal technique plays a big role in cutting and also, any observations I gathered from cutting massive amounts of damp, filthy cardboard on a daily basis may have limited applicability to other people's more general use cases.

The issue of cardboard bunching up when damp, constantly having to clean tape and gunk out of the serrations really slows me down compared to a PE knife a lot of the time.

I know the serrations patterns/scallops seem to differ a little here and there on certain models, or where they are manufactured so that could always play into this as well. The serrations on my knife are quite pointy and snag at the tips.

I do think the issue of wet cardboard bunching up with SE can be alleviated somewhat with a re-profile based on what I've read in these forums, but I think the problem of tape/glue residue and assorted gunk finding their way into SE scallops and eventually gumming up the locking surfaces is just inherent to the design. And this is exacerbated with the closed-back design of a mid-backlock folder like the RockJumper, it just tends to hold on to more gunk. It's less of an issue with a "flow-through" design such as in my Compression Lock SE Li'l Native.

I don't think it's as much of a hindrance for, say, 99.9% of the knife-using population, though. I think in many other jobs, people will have time to clean the gunk off their folder's blade before closing it—and outside of my relatively recent work, I'm actually very impressed with Spyderco's serrations and have been for years. I EDC a combo edge Delica 4 (or Endura 4) outside of work on the days when I'm not carrying a Yojimbo 2 or a Li'l Temperance 3.

But what this all really underlines for me is that there's more to consider about a work knife than just pure cutting performance. And it's only when a model is put through its paces in one's specific work context that all these other design factors reveal themselves to be important.

[carrot]

I ended up buying this one in SE and I’m so glad I didn’t pass it up. This has got the best action of any lockback I’ve used and stellar ergos to go with it.

I’ll be snapping up one of these in PE in any upgrade steel, fingers crossed for K390 or at least SPY27.

I can also imagine a scaled up and scaled down version of this doing amazingly. The handles are awesome, Sal has really outdone himself.