Spyderco's Designated "Beaters"

[kobold]

I don't have any fixed spydercos, but the Native 5 Salt LC200N and the Tasman Salt 2 H1 (both SE), are the ones I use in the garden and water. With their yellow handles, they can't even hide how dirty they are.

Next in line are the Native 5 in Rex45, the Caribbean SE, the PM2 in S30V, the Manix 2 in S110V and the Para 3 in Maxamet, sorted by (mine) perceived toughness.

The rest of my Spydercos are 'just' users, if a knife is on PB, it's good to go.

Soon, I will have a Shaman - will see how things change.

[ugaarguy]

My two beaters are a Native 5 Salt SE, and an otherwise regular S30V Native 5 LW with the KBPI logo on the blade, that I got for a stupidly low price. I think any SE Salt, and many of the LW models, qualify as beaters.

[Abyss_Fish]

I got my g10 native salt which I know without a doubt will not fail me. Goes anywhere I don’t trust the rest of my collection. Then of course my waterway is my all around outdoors knife. And whatever my current work knife is gets sent through the ringer, right now it’s a pe leaf caribbean.

Most of my collection are beaters. Really my only knife that isn’t is my watu, since the blade is likely to snap under any significant pressure.

[Halfneck]

My beater is a fully serrated ZDP-189 Delica. I used it hard while working at a rural urgent care clinic. Opened boxes of medical supplies, popped seals on x-ray fluid, even used it to saw through wet-to-dry cast material to help shape it. Doesn't see as much use at my current job. Some of the serration scallops have chips, but it's still serviceable. Rides in the center console of my car now.

[The Meat man]

Of the Spyderco knives I have owned, I'd say the Pacific Salt SE takes the top. It is a knife designed to be neglected and abused.

[JD Spydo]

I don't have any fixed spydercos, but the Native 5 Salt LC200N and the Tasman Salt 2 H1 (both SE), are the ones I use in the garden and water. With their yellow handles, they can't even hide how dirty they are.

Next in line are the Native 5 in Rex45, the Caribbean SE, the PM2 in S30V, the Manix 2 in S110V and the Para 3 in Maxamet, sorted by (mine) perceived toughness.

You're preaching to a very devout choir when you're talking to me about the NATIVE model. Like I said earlier I had a really bad job where I had to cut so much wire of all different types and a lot of sheet metal as well. I used my 440V, SE Native which I thought for sure was going to be completely destroyed>>> but I still have that knife and it's still capable of doing more rough jobs.

Truly the NATIVE model is Spyderco's "pitbull folder".

[JD Spydo]

My beater is a fully serrated ZDP-189 Delica. I used it hard while working at a rural urgent care clinic. Opened boxes of medical supplies, popped seals on x-ray fluid, even used it to saw through wet-to-dry cast material to help shape it. Doesn't see as much use at my current job. Some of the serration scallops have chips, but it's still serviceable. Rides in the center console of my car now.

Now I find that really interesting especially since Spyderco quit making any serrated knives in ZDP-189. I had heard that the teeth chipped really easy on ZDP-189 blades ( so I heard anyway). And you using a full SE Delica model at that with ZDP189?

It just goes to show that what works well in PE doesn't always work well in SE>> especially in a "beater". I find your success most interesting.

[Halfneck]

Now I find that really interesting especially since Spyderco quit making any serrated knives in ZDP-189. I had heard that the teeth chipped really easy on ZDP-189 blades ( so I heard anyway). And you using a full SE Delica model at that with ZDP189?

It just goes to show that what works well in PE doesn't always work well in SE>> especially in a "beater". I find your success most interesting.

Yup I bought a fully serrated ZDP-189 Delica in British Racing Green when they 1st came out. At the time I use to cut those plastic packing strips on boxes by sliding the blade under them, then twisting it sideways. I'd previously done that with my blue handled serrated Rescue with no issues. A couple weeks later with the serrated ZDP-189 Delica and I noticed chipping in the serrations - serrations within serrations. So I stopped doing that and no more chipping.

[JD Spydo]

Now I find that really interesting especially since Spyderco quit making any serrated knives in ZDP-189. I had heard that the teeth chipped really easy on ZDP-189 blades ( so I heard anyway). And you using a full SE Delica model at that with ZDP189?

It just goes to show that what works well in PE doesn't always work well in SE>> especially in a "beater". I find your success most interesting.

Yup I bought a fully serrated ZDP-189 Delica in British Racing Green when they 1st came out. At the time I use to cut those plastic packing strips on boxes by sliding the blade under them, then twisting it sideways. I'd previously done that with my blue handled serrated Rescue with no issues. A couple weeks later with the serrated ZDP-189 Delica and I noticed chipping in the serrations - serrations within serrations. So I stopped doing that and no more chipping.

Yeah I would be hesitant to use any Spyderco model with a ZDP-189 blade as a "user-beater" because of the properties of that steel. There is a big trade off when you go with a steel that has that high of a Rockwell rating. Albeit there are a lot of jobs you could do with a ZDP-189 blade>> anyone in the meat cutting trade would be mind-blown if they knew how good a ZDP-189 blade would hold an edge.

That's why most of my serrated Spyders have one of my favorite steels for serrated blades. And most steels that excel in SE for the most part don't have that much fanfare in PE. And there are just very few blade steels that seem to do well in both edge types. Two that come to mind quickly are VG-10 and CTS-XHP. But you can almost count them on one hand.

[bdblue]

My beater, or should I say hard use, knive is an old Manix 2 in M4 steel. I bought it used, it had black G10 scales on it and quite a bit of patina. Its action is like a new one, and it will probably last forever. I've used it to carve wood, plastic pipe, cut steel wire, things like that.
At my house I have lots of old knives, utility knives, wood chisels, so I never feel like I have a job that will sacrifice the knife. I can always choose something else to use for the job. Away from my house I feel like I could use it pretty hard without damaging it.
My newest work around the house knife is a Manix 2 LW in Rex45, but the old M4 version is always nearby.

[Halfneck]

Yeah I would be hesitant to use any Spyderco model with a ZDP-189 blade as a "user-beater" because of the properties of that steel. There is a big trade off when you go with a steel that has that high of a Rockwell rating. Albeit there are a lot of jobs you could do with a ZDP-189 blade>> anyone in the meat cutting trade would be mind-blown if they knew how good a ZDP-189 blade would hold an edge.

That's why most of my serrated Spyders have one of my favorite steels for serrated blades. And most steels that excel in SE for the most part don't have that much fanfare in PE. And there are just very few blade steels that seem to do well in both edge types. Two that come to mind quickly are VG-10 and CTS-XHP. But you can almost count them on one hand.

At this point it's a beater, no point in coddling it. If it breaks beyond repair I'm pretty sure I have an extra knife laying around somewhere :)

[Surfingringo]

Whatever knives I am using for my day to day fishing work always become my beaters. Conditions are rough out there and the knives see a ton of wear from sun, salt, fish teeth, blood, bile, etc. They get dirty and beat up but these two don’t even bat an eye at the daily abuse they receive.

[JD Spydo]

Whatever knives I am using for my day to day fishing work always become my beaters. Conditions are rough out there and the knives see a ton of wear from sun, salt, fish teeth, blood, bile, etc. They get dirty and beat up but these two don’t even bat an eye at the daily abuse they receive.

Hey Mr. Lance you've got my curiosity going. You are undoubtedly the well established "King of H-1" and the "Ambassador of the Salt Series" and you've enlightened me more than anyone has in the area of corrosion free cutlery. Which seems to be growing by the way.

But my question is this: Are there any knives you use in your fishing/marine activities that are not H-1 or LC200N? In other words do you have any VG-10, S30V or any conventional type steel blades you use as "beaters" in your fishing/marine activities? Are there cutting jobs that these nitrogen based steels don't do as good as the other blade steels in that area of work?

Just curious because I've actually wondered if these nitrogen based blade steels are eventually going to make most of the other blade steels obsolete in due time? That is obsolete for working in harsh environments?

Always enjoy and learn from your input :)

[JD Spydo]

Yeah I would be hesitant to use any Spyderco model with a ZDP-189 blade as a "user-beater" because of the properties of that steel. There is a big trade off when you go with a steel that has that high of a Rockwell rating. Albeit there are a lot of jobs you could do with a ZDP-189 blade>> anyone in the meat cutting trade would be mind-blown if they knew how good a ZDP-189 blade would hold an edge.

That's why most of my serrated Spyders have one of my favorite steels for serrated blades. And most steels that excel in SE for the most part don't have that much fanfare in PE. And there are just very few blade steels that seem to do well in both edge types. Two that come to mind quickly are VG-10 and CTS-XHP. But you can almost count them on one hand.

At this point it's a beater, no point in coddling it. If it breaks beyond repair I'm pretty sure I have an extra knife laying around somewhere :)

I'm sure you've got way more than one extra knife laying around :D If you're like me you've probably got them in various places all over your home. I truly keep knives of some sort in every room in my home.

After doing a carefful analysis last night I've now determined my favorite SE blade steels are AUS-8 and VG-10. Although I'll give ATS-55, ATS-34, GIN-1, AUS-8, AUS-10 and 440V all honorable mention for serrated blades.

But I still do like using ZDP-189 PE blades for several types of meat cutting. Because ZDP-189 takes such a fine, wicked edge that will penetrate meat like a laser :cool:

[Surfingringo]

Whatever knives I am using for my day to day fishing work always become my beaters. Conditions are rough out there and the knives see a ton of wear from sun, salt, fish teeth, blood, bile, etc. They get dirty and beat up but these two don’t even bat an eye at the daily abuse they receive.

Hey Mr. Lance you've got my curiosity going. You are undoubtedly the well established "King of H-1" and the "Ambassador of the Salt Series" and you've enlightened me more than anyone has in the area of corrosion free cutlery. Which seems to be growing by the way.

But my question is this: Are there any knives you use in your fishing/marine activities that are not H-1 or LC200N? In other words do you have any VG-10, S30V or any conventional type steel blades you use as "beaters" in your fishing/marine activities? Are there cutting jobs that these nitrogen based steels don't do as good as the other blade steels in that area of work?

Just curious because I've actually wondered if these nitrogen based blade steels are eventually going to make most of the other blade steels obsolete in due time? That is obsolete for working in harsh environments?

Always enjoy and learn from your input :)

Hey JD, I don’t use ANY other steels on the water. The exposure level out there is just too high and anything other than the Nitrogen steels succumb to rust and corrosion quickly. Many of those steels have better edge performance than the rust proof options but in my experience the edge degradation caused by corrosion outweighs any advantage you would otherwise see from the higher wear resistance. On dry land I have a much wider range of steels I enjoy using but the advantages of the nitrogen steels on Saltwater are just too great to bother trying to fool with those other steels in that environment.

[JD Spydo]

Whatever knives I am using for my day to day fishing work always become my beaters. Conditions are rough out there and the knives see a ton of wear from sun, salt, fish teeth, blood, bile, etc. They get dirty and beat up but these two don’t even bat an eye at the daily abuse they receive.

Hey Mr. Lance you've got my curiosity going. You are undoubtedly the well established "King of H-1" and the "Ambassador of the Salt Series" and you've enlightened me more than anyone has in the area of corrosion free cutlery. Which seems to be growing by the way.

But my question is this: Are there any knives you use in your fishing/marine activities that are not H-1 or LC200N? In other words do you have any VG-10, S30V or any conventional type steel blades you use as "beaters" in your fishing/marine activities? Are there cutting jobs that these nitrogen based steels don't do as good as the other blade steels in that area of work?

Just curious because I've actually wondered if these nitrogen based blade steels are eventually going to make most of the other blade steels obsolete in due time? That is obsolete for working in harsh environments?

Always enjoy and learn from your input :)

Hey JD, I don’t use ANY other steels on the water. The exposure level out there is just too high and anything other than the Nitrogen steels succumb to rust and corrosion quickly. Many of those steels have better edge performance than the rust proof options but in my experience the edge degradation caused by corrosion outweighs any advantage you would otherwise see from the higher wear resistance. On dry land I have a much wider range of steels I enjoy using but the advantages of the nitrogen steels on Saltwater are just too great to bother trying to fool with those other steels in that environment.

Yeah that makes perfect sense. And if I get down to see my friends at Ft. Walton Beach FL this next summer the H-1 and LC200n models I have are probably what I'll use as well.

Hey I got one more question to pick your brain with. Have you ever used any knife with X-15 TN blade steel? The reason I ask is because before Spyderco or Benchmade ever used H-1 steel the Boker company had a Gemini series of folders made with X-15 TN stainless and it was touted as a "rust proof" stainless before H-1 or LC200N either one ever gained their popularity.

Well I had a couple of those Boker Gemini models with the X-15 TN stainless and I used it doing a lot of snorkeling down there in the gulf in the Florida panhandle. I would even use it digging in the sand looking for stuff. It had great anti-corrosion properties too. However the edge holding for plain edges wasn't very much better than it is for plain edged H-1 blades.

But before any of these newer nitrogen based blade steels were available I did find that X-15 TN wasn't bad at all. And I just wondered if you ever ran across it before. I don't think Spyderco ever made a model with that steel that I know of. But Boker had a few models with it and they sold well. Just wondering?

[JonLeBlanc]

My BBS S90V Military gets thrashed (and takes it).

[Surfingringo]

Whatever knives I am using for my day to day fishing work always become my beaters. Conditions are rough out there and the knives see a ton of wear from sun, salt, fish teeth, blood, bile, etc. They get dirty and beat up but these two don’t even bat an eye at the daily abuse they receive.

Hey Mr. Lance you've got my curiosity going. You are undoubtedly the well established "King of H-1" and the "Ambassador of the Salt Series" and you've enlightened me more than anyone has in the area of corrosion free cutlery. Which seems to be growing by the way.

But my question is this: Are there any knives you use in your fishing/marine activities that are not H-1 or LC200N? In other words do you have any VG-10, S30V or any conventional type steel blades you use as "beaters" in your fishing/marine activities? Are there cutting jobs that these nitrogen based steels don't do as good as the other blade steels in that area of work?

Just curious because I've actually wondered if these nitrogen based blade steels are eventually going to make most of the other blade steels obsolete in due time? That is obsolete for working in harsh environments?

Always enjoy and learn from your input :)

Hey JD, I don’t use ANY other steels on the water. The exposure level out there is just too high and anything other than the Nitrogen steels succumb to rust and corrosion quickly. Many of those steels have better edge performance than the rust proof options but in my experience the edge degradation caused by corrosion outweighs any advantage you would otherwise see from the higher wear resistance. On dry land I have a much wider range of steels I enjoy using but the advantages of the nitrogen steels on Saltwater are just too great to bother trying to fool with those other steels in that environment.

Yeah that makes perfect sense. And if I get down to see my friends at Ft. Walton Beach FL this next summer the H-1 and LC200n models I have are probably what I'll use as well.

Hey I got one more question to pick your brain with. Have you ever used any knife with X-15 TN blade steel? The reason I ask is because before Spyderco or Benchmade ever used H-1 steel the Boker company had a Gemini series of folders made with X-15 TN stainless and it was touted as a "rust proof" stainless before H-1 or LC200N either one ever gained their popularity.

Well I had a couple of those Boker Gemini models with the X-15 TN stainless and I used it doing a lot of snorkeling down there in the gulf in the Florida panhandle. I would even use it digging in the sand looking for stuff. It had great anti-corrosion properties too. However the edge holding for plain edges wasn't very much better than it is for plain edged H-1 blades.

But before any of these newer nitrogen based blade steels were available I did find that X-15 TN wasn't bad at all. And I just wondered if you ever ran across it before. I don't think Spyderco ever made a model with that steel that I know of. But Boker had a few models with it and they sold well. Just wondering?

Hey JD, no I’ve never used that steel but I’m familiar with the name. Didn’t Benchmade make a “H2O” model with that steel years ago. I seem to recall when I was first getting into Spyderco I was having a hard time deciding between that Benchmade and a Spyderco Pacific Salt. Glad I took the right fork in that road! Haha

[zozo]

My PM2 does hard work and is remarkably useful for duck hunting and processing. But my go to beaters are my frn Cara Cara 2 and G10 Crossbill.

[Airlsee]

For me it's an S30V Native 5 for most tasks around the house, and a GB1 for doing actual work. Both absolutely rock solid models in my opinion.