Pac salt green frn lc200n shipping to dealers!

[StuntZombie]

Well everything looks normal inside



I'll edit this post after I put it back together and can check out the action.

edit: well that's it, I'm done with this particular knife. Its going back to Golden. Even tightening the pivot so the action is so stiff the knife doesn't snap shut there's a ton of side to side play. Guess it'll be a while before I try one of these in SE.

Maybe it's just the lighting, but your pivot doesn't look right. I wonder if the "bushing" area didn't mold correctly.

[Wartstein]

......
edit: well that's it, I'm done with this particular knife. Its going back to Golden. Even tightening the pivot so the action is so stiff the knife doesn't snap shut there's a ton of side to side play. Guess it'll be a while before I try one of these in SE.

Sorry for you - seems like there´s is something that won´t let you try ffg in SE: I can recall your wharnie Endura came in PE, though you ordered it in SE, and now this.
Hope you´ll try again someday! (Also for selfish reasons, I´ve been waiting for your thoughts on ffg SE for quite some time now... )

[Wartstein]

It might be an illusion caused by the camera lens, but it sure looks like the scale is warped on on side.

Well, now that could be an explanation why seemingly with the new Pac Salt 2 there are more problems with side to side play than with the old Pac Salt 1 (my "1" does not have any whatsoever, though it has been used a lot): The somewhat "inside" sceletonized, lighter construction perhaps makes the new scales more prone to warping during production than the old, "solid" (not sceletonized) scales?!

[vivi]

......
edit: well that's it, I'm done with this particular knife. Its going back to Golden. Even tightening the pivot so the action is so stiff the knife doesn't snap shut there's a ton of side to side play. Guess it'll be a while before I try one of these in SE.

Sorry for you - seems like there´s is something that won´t let you try ffg in SE: I can recall your wharnie Endura came in PE, though you ordered it in SE, and now this.
Hope you´ll try again someday! (Also for selfish reasons, I´ve been waiting for your thoughts on ffg SE for quite some time now... )

Hah, I have had some bad luck here. Oh well, can't be mad when this is the first Spyderco I've ever needed to return in all the years I've been here.

Maybe if I feel up to it I'll take it apart again and take photos side by side with other Pacific Salt 2 handles and compare the pivots. I can't explain why there's always a big gap letting light through on this one.

[tonijedi]

It might be an illusion caused by the camera lens, but it sure looks like the scale is warped on on side.

Well, now that could be an explanation why seemingly with the new Pac Salt 2 there are more problems with side to side play than with the old Pac Salt 1 (my "1" does not have any whatsoever, though it has been used a lot): The somewhat "inside" sceletonized, lighter construction perhaps makes the new scales more prone to warping during production than the old, "solid" (not sceletonized) scales?!

It seems the problems are arising with this new green handle and not the second iteration of the Pacific.
The Salt 2 has the same handle construction and there are no known issues.

[Abyss_Fish]

I’m gonna have to unfortunately second those qc issues a few of you are having.

Finally got mine in, it’s got substantial up and down play. Plus it’s dangerously stiff, like trying to open it one handed makes me think I’m gonna throw the knife across the room. I didn’t pay much for it so I may as well keep it around, I’ll probably do a blade swap with a regular endura some time. This is a real disappointment though man. First new spyderco in a while...

EDIT: after playing around with my pivot tension and opening and closing it a bit the action has improved. The up and down play is still substantial and the opening hole is quite sharp. But at least it’s not dangerous anymore. I still think I will put it in a regular endura handle.

[Wartstein]

Well, now that could be an explanation why seemingly with the new Pac Salt 2 there are more problems with side to side play than with the old Pac Salt 1 (my "1" does not have any whatsoever, though it has been used a lot): The somewhat "inside" sceletonized, lighter construction perhaps makes the new scales more prone to warping during production than the old, "solid" (not sceletonized) scales?!

It seems the problems are arising with this new green handle and not the second iteration of the Pacific.
The Salt 2 has the same handle construction and there are no known issues.

Never had a Salt 2, so it has that "inside sceletonized" handle design too?

One thing to consider: If the shorter Salt 2 handle would warp to the exact same degree as the longer Pacific handle, the latter would result in a larger gap in the pivot area and more blade play just by geometry. Still, if the Salt 2 had "warping issues" there would still be some known side to side play issues.

The "good thing" if warped handles were responsible for side to side play in some green Pac Salts: This would mean that they are not more prone to generally develope play over time, but if one would get an "un-warped" piece (and I am sure that´d stil be the vast majority) they´d be fine (assuming that warped handles are responsible for the play issue, which is not clear at this point).

[Wartstein]

You know I may do that. Something is definitely wrong in the pivot area.

Here is the pivot on my PE swapped into a black handle:



Here is the SE with the pivot fully tightened so the blade doesn't even move:



Huge gap no matter how tight the pivot is.

Since they're easy to take apart I'm gonna pop it open and have a look.

One thing I just have to ask: Shouldn´t such a huge gap and especially the resulting severe side to side play not be something quality control should detect and thus make the knife a second? This just occured to me when I thought of how minor flaws (that furthermore don´t impair function at all) otherwise DO turn a knife into a second as could be seen in the recent sale...?

[James Y]

If the issues are to do with the scales, why are the green ones having so many issues that the black H1 PAC Salt 2’s (which must be the exact same, except for the color) don’t seem to be having? Is it the molds, or does it also have to do with the thinner FFG blade in a linerless FRN handle? Were the LC200N models a rush job, that there seems to be so many QC issues with them?

Very odd.

Jim

[tonijedi]

The Salt 2 has the skeletonized scales.

[tonijedi]

For those in EU:
https://www.coutellerie-tourangelle.com ... 42780.html

https://www.coutellerie-tourangelle.com ... 42779.html

[Monty]

I'm ready for these QC issues to be over so we can get some good LC200N vs H1 serration testing in progress.

[vivi]

......
edit: well that's it, I'm done with this particular knife. Its going back to Golden. Even tightening the pivot so the action is so stiff the knife doesn't snap shut there's a ton of side to side play. Guess it'll be a while before I try one of these in SE.

Sorry for you - seems like there´s is something that won´t let you try ffg in SE: I can recall your wharnie Endura came in PE, though you ordered it in SE, and now this.
Hope you´ll try again someday! (Also for selfish reasons, I´ve been waiting for your thoughts on ffg SE for quite some time now... )

Good news brother, the curse is over!

[StuntZombie]

I had a tiny amount of vertical blade play in mine, and discovered there was some lint on the locking notch on the back of the blade. Cleaned that out, and now I can only induce blade play if I really bare down hard on something or pull back and forth on the blade hard enough that I worry I'll slip and cut myself. I'll see if I can get some disassembled pics for you.

Lockup:



Scales




Scale gap


I've got my pivot tightened to the point where the blade is not flickable. There's some horizontal movement, but I think that can be attributed to the fact that it's a linerless FRN handle, rather than actual blade play. The scales flex a bit.

I have discovered LC200N is still a bit soft. I was cutting zip ties today, and accidentally hit a metal basket with the tip. The edge was completely blunted. The chisel ground edge is rather acute, so I might try adding a microbevel, to see if that helps.

[bobnikon]

So mine just arrived. Rock solid so far. Blade is perfectly centered. Sorry for those that have had problems, but it is at least reassuring to know it is not all of them.

Great knife! Very happy.

Now there are only two dilemma left. Do I dye it midnight blue like my N5 Salt or does it stay zombie green. And... Do I pick up the serrated....

[R100]

Hello all,
I got my SE version about 2 weeks ago now and have had time to reprofile it and use it a bit.

It's my first ffg SE and I had a month to anticipate it waiting for delivery to Australia. I am actually quite disappointed so far. It is certainly not in the same class quality-wise as my Pac Salt 1s. All the screws were loose which was easily fixed but before the pivot screw has enough tension to prevent it rattling loose the blade binds in the scales and can't be moved. It is usable now with the pivot screw glued with red loctite and has no side to side play but it is stiff to open and close like this. The lock rock is already far more than either of my well used Pac Salt 1s. While it is now usable I hate to think of one like this being bought by a non knife afi. Such a person may not even own a torx bit and an example like mine would literally have lost its screws and fallen apart within a few days. This would hurt Spyderco and is completely different from any other Spyderco knife I have ever handled.

My other issue is not a QC one but is probably personal to me. The ffg blade is beautifully ground and nicely thin but this makes it quite flexible. This all seems to make it "steer" in a cut much more than a hollow ground H1 SE blade. I have to hold it at a significantly greater angle to make a straight cut. The ffg blade cuts with a bit less effort than the hollow ground version but the advantage is lost because it is harder to get a precise cut. This is really noticeable in food preparation which is where I hoped the ffg would shine.

One thing I love about my SE Pac Salt 1 is that it feels robust and I never hesitate to use it for whatever is at hand. In a rural environment this can be quite tough and I don't think my "flimsy" new green Pac Salt 2 can be used in the same way.

On the good side is cutting effectiveness. The hollow ground H1 blade of a Pac Salt is an amazing cutter but the ffg lc200n is a step above even this. I reprofiled it to 15 degrees on the bevel side with my new CBN rods. I was paranoid about destroying my new rods so used only very light pressure and it took several thousand passes to apex the new bevel. It now bites into most media with less pressure than any other knife I own.

After the tinkering, my new lc200n ffg SE Pacific Salt has some interesting properties and will find its role in my collection. To me it is not so much an upgrade of the hollow ground H1 models as a different knife with different uses.

Dan

[Wartstein]

Sorry for you - seems like there´s is something that won´t let you try ffg in SE: I can recall your wharnie Endura came in PE, though you ordered it in SE, and now this.
Hope you´ll try again someday! (Also for selfish reasons, I´ve been waiting for your thoughts on ffg SE for quite some time now... )

Good news brother, the curse is over!

That´s good news indeed, my friend!! :)

Though I still hope you´ll also get to try a Spyderco ffg SE folder :rolleyes: in the more than twice folder blade thickness (for the Z-cut will be a better performer on various tasks just for its thin blade anyway, regardless if SE or not)
What I am actually really interested in: How you´ll like the BD1N steel! For me it performed a lot better on my Manix 2 LW than I would have expected!

[vivi]

I'm a big fan of BD1 and from what I've heard BD1N sharpens very easily too but holds an edge longer. If its anything like BD1 it should perform well in SE. I tried BD1 in a Manix LW, Ronin 2 and Cold Steel Voyagers and its among the easiestto sharpen steels for me.

I plan to mail that Pacific Salt in sometime soon, just wanted to wait a week or two for things to settle down in Golden. Whenever I get that sorted out, it'll see a lot of pocket time.

[Wartstein]

I'm a big fan of BD1 and from what I've heard BD1N sharpens very easily too but holds an edge longer. If its anything like BD1 it should perform well in SE. I tried BD1 in a Manix LW, Ronin 2 and Cold Steel Voyagers and its among the easiestto sharpen steels for me.

I plan to mail that Pacific Salt in sometime soon, just wanted to wait a week or two for things to settle down in Golden. Whenever I get that sorted out, it'll see a lot of pocket time.

While I was not really overwhelmed by the edge holding of the BD1 Manix LW I had, my current BD1N seems to be noticeable better in that regard (and both steels are a breeze to sharpen) - part of that could be due though to some improvement in my sharpening skills (so that I can give the current BD1N a "better edge" than I could back then with the BD1)

/ Great!! Thought you were done with the green Pac Salt SE! :)

[Doc Dan]

I'm a big fan of BD1 and from what I've heard BD1N sharpens very easily too but holds an edge longer. If its anything like BD1 it should perform well in SE. I tried BD1 in a Manix LW, Ronin 2 and Cold Steel Voyagers and its among the easiestto sharpen steels for me.

I plan to mail that Pacific Salt in sometime soon, just wanted to wait a week or two for things to settle down in Golden. Whenever I get that sorted out, it'll see a lot of pocket time.

You will like that little knife. I have two and they get a ton of use...almost daily use, in fact. I'd say the edge retention is at or slightly below VG-10. It is pretty close.

It is Christmas and those colored Z-Cuts make perfect Christmas gifts.