Rock Jumper comparison thread + general info
Rock Jumper comparison thread + general info
Here's all that I have that I thought was comparable. Feel free to share yours here. I have a few others that I didn't compare (Yojimbo 2, Southard, Rock Lobster...mostly models that aren't very similar) but if you really want I'll throw them in too.
I took two pics of each comparison, one lined up at the front end of the handle and one lined up at the beginning of the edge.
*The Para 2 and Caly 3 have both been sharpened a good bit, so they're probably a teeny bit shorter than a brand new knife*
I took two pics of each comparison, one lined up at the front end of the handle and one lined up at the beginning of the edge.
*The Para 2 and Caly 3 have both been sharpened a good bit, so they're probably a teeny bit shorter than a brand new knife*
Last edited by Evil D on Mon Sep 28, 2020 5:57 pm, edited 2 times in total.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
- dj moonbat
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Re: Rock Jumper comparison thread
Nice. Thanks a ton.
It looks like it’s got very similar dimensions to the Sage.
It looks like it’s got very similar dimensions to the Sage.
Re: Rock Jumper comparison thread
this really looks perfect. and the leaf jumper will be even perfecterer. thanks for the pics!
keep your knife sharp and your focus sharper.
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
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Re: Rock Jumper comparison thread
Thank you Evil D.
Could you compare Delica 4 also please?
Could you compare Delica 4 also please?
Re: Rock Jumper comparison thread
Few more grip pics.
For those who were unhappy about the blade being over 3 inches, it looks like they could have easily squeezed another 1/4 inch into this handle :confused:
And for those who are concerned, yes the blade still has a ricasso that falls into your index finger when closing. I don't need to reposition my grip back at all to get the effect, but the further back your finger is the further it allows the blade to close. You sorta need to reach down a bit to get to the lock bar anyway, and this naturally moves your hand down the handle a little bit anyway. I found myself closing the knife completely second nature and the ricasso fell into place like any other back lock I have.
The ergonomics are everything I could have asked for. The only way I could be happier is with a blade shape that doesn't have a thumb ramp (ala Shaman), if that's even possible with this lock/edge to handle configuration. I'm not crazy about thumb ramps these days and this one is quite pronounced. Those who dislike the lack of jimping, I can press my thumb into the thump ramp pretty hard before it starts to slip upward but obviously it doesn't have the traction that jimping provides. It reminds me a lot of my Spyderhawk which also lacks thumb ramp jimping. Also remember there is still jimping molded into the FRN on the back of the handle just behind the thumb ramp, and that does provide a bit of extra traction for your thumb. There is still a teeny bit of ricasso sticking out from the handle, and the OCD in me does wish even that wee bit was hidden, but I can live with it. It probably gives you enough clearance to sharpen on the Sharpmaker without the shoulder of the handle hitting the rods.
For those who were unhappy about the blade being over 3 inches, it looks like they could have easily squeezed another 1/4 inch into this handle :confused:
And for those who are concerned, yes the blade still has a ricasso that falls into your index finger when closing. I don't need to reposition my grip back at all to get the effect, but the further back your finger is the further it allows the blade to close. You sorta need to reach down a bit to get to the lock bar anyway, and this naturally moves your hand down the handle a little bit anyway. I found myself closing the knife completely second nature and the ricasso fell into place like any other back lock I have.
The ergonomics are everything I could have asked for. The only way I could be happier is with a blade shape that doesn't have a thumb ramp (ala Shaman), if that's even possible with this lock/edge to handle configuration. I'm not crazy about thumb ramps these days and this one is quite pronounced. Those who dislike the lack of jimping, I can press my thumb into the thump ramp pretty hard before it starts to slip upward but obviously it doesn't have the traction that jimping provides. It reminds me a lot of my Spyderhawk which also lacks thumb ramp jimping. Also remember there is still jimping molded into the FRN on the back of the handle just behind the thumb ramp, and that does provide a bit of extra traction for your thumb. There is still a teeny bit of ricasso sticking out from the handle, and the OCD in me does wish even that wee bit was hidden, but I can live with it. It probably gives you enough clearance to sharpen on the Sharpmaker without the shoulder of the handle hitting the rods.
Last edited by Evil D on Mon Sep 28, 2020 6:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Re: Rock Jumper comparison thread
pantagana23 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 28, 2020 4:59 pmThank you Evil D.
Could you compare Delica 4 also please?
I don't have a Delica
The Mantra is very close to the Delica in overall size, but it does have a good bit more edge length since it's a frame lock and doesn't have the ricasso at the tang of the blade.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
- kennethsime
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Re: Rock Jumper comparison thread
Looks great David, thanks for sharing!
I'm happiest with Micarta and Tool Steel.
Top four in rotation: K390 + GCM PM2, ZCarta Shaman, Crucarta PM2, K390 + GCM Straight Spine Stretch.
Top four in rotation: K390 + GCM PM2, ZCarta Shaman, Crucarta PM2, K390 + GCM Straight Spine Stretch.
Re: Rock Jumper comparison thread
Wow! Great lineup of comparisons! Thank you for doing all that for us! Looks as though I will like it after seeing it next to the stretch. I was one of those who was thinking it would be more Delica-like, and wasn’t as interested. Thanks again! :spyder:
Re: Rock Jumper comparison thread + general info
Couldn't resist taking it apart to see what's going on inside (sorry Sal :o ).
My advice is, unless you've got experience taking apart back locks, leave it alone. This was by far the trickiest Spyderco reassembly I've done.
First off, it's a little odd that they used the lanyard hole clip on this knife isn't it? :confused:
The pivot screw was basically not tight at all, not even finger tight. This may be something Spyderco should look into, I could imagine the screw vibrating out during shipping and someone receiving a knife with the pivot screw loose in the box. The screw itself has no thread locker of any kind, just a clean screw.
The clip screws did have blue thread locker on them as did the body screws, though the body screws didn't have nearly as much (again, probably should be looked into).
Taking off the first scale we see a liberal amount of lubricant all over the place, and some very well skeletonized liners. I don't know if it's been mentioned, but this knife is quite light for it's size at an advertised 3.0oz, compared to the Delica at 2.5oz and the Stretch 2 at 3.7oz.
PB washers.
Now on to reassembly.....insert expletives here. The problem all stems from this little plastic pin fella here.
He seats into a hole on the liners and supports the bottom floor of the back spacer while under load from the lock spring. On some back locks I've been able to basically assemble the whole knife onto one side of the handle and then lay the second liner on top and all the holes line up and then you just drop the screws in....but NO this little guy isn't having any of that because if you put the lock spring in place it presses down on the bottom "fork" of the back spacer and this little nub won't line up with the hole in the liner. So, you have to put the second liner in place and get the nub into his hole, spin the lock bar around and slip the lock spring in, and then carefully slip the blade (with washers) into the handle and slip the pivot pin in all while holding the lock bar down. Basically you need a third hand, so best of luck lol.
Here's the nub fella seated properly
It REALLY helps to use grease on the washers to hold them into place, hopefully lined up with the pivot hole of the blade.
Remember that the pivot pin is the D shaped kind so it only goes in one way. It may also help if you put a body screw back in at the lock bar and one back at the back spacer (after you put the second liner back on and get the back spacer nubs into their holes). This will help to keep the liner from slipping off the body screw pins and the whole thing falling apart in your hands, and since the second scale isn't on yet (leave that out until the blade/pivot pin are in) these two body screws won't tighten all the way down and you'll be able to pry open the liner a little to give you room to slide the blade in.
My advice is, unless you've got experience taking apart back locks, leave it alone. This was by far the trickiest Spyderco reassembly I've done.
First off, it's a little odd that they used the lanyard hole clip on this knife isn't it? :confused:
The pivot screw was basically not tight at all, not even finger tight. This may be something Spyderco should look into, I could imagine the screw vibrating out during shipping and someone receiving a knife with the pivot screw loose in the box. The screw itself has no thread locker of any kind, just a clean screw.
The clip screws did have blue thread locker on them as did the body screws, though the body screws didn't have nearly as much (again, probably should be looked into).
Taking off the first scale we see a liberal amount of lubricant all over the place, and some very well skeletonized liners. I don't know if it's been mentioned, but this knife is quite light for it's size at an advertised 3.0oz, compared to the Delica at 2.5oz and the Stretch 2 at 3.7oz.
PB washers.
NOT a bushing pivotthewoodpecker wrote: ↑Mon Sep 28, 2020 1:03 pmQuick question: do you (or anyone else) know if this model has a bushing pivot?
Now on to reassembly.....insert expletives here. The problem all stems from this little plastic pin fella here.
He seats into a hole on the liners and supports the bottom floor of the back spacer while under load from the lock spring. On some back locks I've been able to basically assemble the whole knife onto one side of the handle and then lay the second liner on top and all the holes line up and then you just drop the screws in....but NO this little guy isn't having any of that because if you put the lock spring in place it presses down on the bottom "fork" of the back spacer and this little nub won't line up with the hole in the liner. So, you have to put the second liner in place and get the nub into his hole, spin the lock bar around and slip the lock spring in, and then carefully slip the blade (with washers) into the handle and slip the pivot pin in all while holding the lock bar down. Basically you need a third hand, so best of luck lol.
Here's the nub fella seated properly
It REALLY helps to use grease on the washers to hold them into place, hopefully lined up with the pivot hole of the blade.
Remember that the pivot pin is the D shaped kind so it only goes in one way. It may also help if you put a body screw back in at the lock bar and one back at the back spacer (after you put the second liner back on and get the back spacer nubs into their holes). This will help to keep the liner from slipping off the body screw pins and the whole thing falling apart in your hands, and since the second scale isn't on yet (leave that out until the blade/pivot pin are in) these two body screws won't tighten all the way down and you'll be able to pry open the liner a little to give you room to slide the blade in.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Re: Rock Jumper comparison thread + general info
the hole in the clip is in case you carry tip down so you can still access the pivot screw.
keep your knife sharp and your focus sharper.
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
- cabfrank
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- Location: Northern California, USA, Earth
Re: Rock Jumper comparison thread + general info
Nice pics man, thanks. I didn't want to get into the fray regarding jimping, especially before the knife was even in anyone's hand, but I'm glad you brought up the Spyderhawk . I've had the same thoughts about how it feels good even without it.
- cabfrank
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- Posts: 2881
- Joined: Sun May 08, 2011 9:07 pm
- Location: Northern California, USA, Earth
Re: Rock Jumper comparison thread + general info
I can't believe you took it apart already. Nevermind, of course I can.
Re: Rock Jumper comparison thread + general info
I can just see this selling like crazy, especially in sprint runs with different steels and colors. But I want the RockSalt version in LC200N and the green scales!
Re: Rock Jumper comparison thread + general info
I have a Delica sitting in a ziplock in the garage, for whatever reason I just cannot get that particular lock spring to stay in long enough to get it together. Thanks for enduring the suffering for our benefit on this one.
Re: Rock Jumper comparison thread + general info
Oh dang. Can't believe I missed that.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Re: Rock Jumper comparison thread + general info
Doesn't everyone take apart and sharpen brand new knives? :confused:
Actually I haven't sharpened it just yet, because it's VERY sharp. It'll almost tree top hair and easily push cuts phone book paper.
Oh and on another note, the thumb hole has very crisp edges. I rather like a sharp thumb hole but I know some don't care for it.
I'm also somewhat undecided on the whole Boye dent debate. I have to admit I immediately expected it to be there, from literally years of using Spyderco back locks that had them. At the same time I really don't have an issue finding the lock, it's easy enough to feel for the lock well along the scales. Aesthetically I do think it looks better without the dent, and at least those who want it can easily add one with a Dremel.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Re: Rock Jumper comparison thread + general info
Handle looks roomier than I imagined. Seems to have as much grip area as the Stretch, Para 2 and even Millie do behind the choil. I think people that prefer knives of this size will find this design to be a home run, it looks very well executed.
Re: Rock Jumper comparison thread + general info
Can't believe it's almost parallel to the Sage (Sage 3 for the matter) in handle size. Thank you for the comparison pics, nice job!
8Cr13MoV:N690Co:VG10:S30V:S35VN:S45VN:Elmax:SPY27:H1:LC200N:4V:MagnaCut:CTS-XHP:204P:M390:20CV:Cru-Wear:Z-Wear:M4:Rex-45:10V:K390:15V:S90V:Z-Max:Maxamet
Re: Rock Jumper comparison thread + general info
It's a bit wider than a Stretch or Para 2 behind the choil, even a bit more than a Manix 2. Maybe more important than actual length is that the hook on the end of the handle and the guard on the front are both shallow enough to allow the meat of your hand to flex outward when gripping hard. On those other knives (excluding the Military) I can get my hand onto the grip behind the choil but when I bear down on it my hand wants to expand beyond the size of the grip. Overall I'd say this knife is like a roomier Stretch handle without the choil with a Manix 2 sized blade without the choil.
I'm wondering why they chose to stop the blade length where they did, even with the wharnie blade shape it looks like there's more room for more blade length. Maybe the leaf blade will be a bit longer.
Now we need to start the campaign for a Rock Jumper XL.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David