Best steels for serrations?

[JuPaul]

This question has come up in another thread, but I thought the topic deserved its own thread. What factors make a steel ideal for taking and holding serrations?

Obviously the ease of grinding the serrations would have to be considered, so hardness and carbide content would be factors in machinability, right? And how about holding serrations? Does toughness matter? Super tough H1 seems to be the king of serrations, but steels like s30v get teeth all the time, and it's not especially tough.

So what determines which steels get teeth?

[Red]

I am so gonna be watching this....

[Wartstein]

This question has come up in another thread, but I thought the topic deserved its own thread. What factors make a steel ideal for taking and holding serrations?

Obviously the ease of grinding the serrations would have to be considered, so hardness and carbide content would be factors in machinability, right? And how about holding serrations? Does toughness matter? Super tough H1 seems to be the king of serrations, but steels like s30v get teeth all the time, and it's not especially tough.

So what determines which steels get teeth?

I am so NOT an expert on this, since I know Spyderco serrations solely in VG10 and H1

Concerning H1: Is it really (only) the toughness that makes it so good for serrations, or partly also that magical "work hardening" that comes a lot more in SE than on PE as far as I can recall?!

[Evil D]

I seem to want the opposite of most people...while I certainly would try steels with higher edge retention and wear resistance, I really don't prefer them for SE (or at least since I don't have them I don't THINK I want them). My logic is, I want a steel that is easier to sharpen, resists edge damage, and is easier to fix if edge damage happens. There's obviously a low end limit, I don't want a steel that barely holds an edge and goes dull within the first 20 cuts, but I touch up after every use so I need about one hard day's worth of edge retention and I'm ok with that. So far I have done some pretty stupid jobs with LC200N and it hasn't gone dull yet, and in most cases it'll even still shave. LC seems to be a perfect middle ground for these qualities, and the rust resistance is just an added bonus that allows me to maybe neglect it a bit more than I would with other steels.

H1 is obviously an awesome choice too. Not much more needs to be said here.

S30V, I dunno. I feel like it's a bit on the higher end of what I want to deal with, and seems more likely to chip than I want.


Everything is a compromise. You could add serrations to S110V and get a combo where it will probably never go full to the point where it won't cut things, but if you chip the edge (or break off a tooth) you'll be in for a long sharpening session to fix it. Since I'm maintaining my edges more routinely, I just don't have a need for steels like that. I keep them sharp and I spend more time with a sharper edge than the next guy who relies on a working edge and edge retention.

With serrations the enjoyment factor tends to drop right along with sharpness for me. I know that sounds like I'd really want a steel that holds an edge longer, it seems like reverse logic but 30 strokes on my Sharpmaker isn't exactly a hassle to deal with at the end of the day.

[prndltech]

I seem to want the opposite of most people...while I certainly would try steels with higher edge retention and wear resistance, I really don't prefer them for SE (or at least since I don't have them I don't THINK I want them). My logic is, I want a steel that is easier to sharpen, resists edge damage, and is easier to fix if edge damage happens. There's obviously a low end limit, I don't want a steel that barely holds an edge and goes dull within the first 20 cuts, but I touch up after every use so I need about one hard day's worth of edge retention and I'm ok with that. So far I have done some pretty stupid jobs with LC200N and it hasn't gone dull yet, and in most cases it'll even still shave. LC seems to be a perfect middle ground for these qualities, and the rust resistance is just an added bonus that allows me to maybe neglect it a bit more than I would with other steels.

H1 is obviously an awesome choice too. Not much more needs to be said here.

S30V, I dunno. I feel like it's a bit on the higher end of what I want to deal with, and seems more likely to chip than I want.


Everything is a compromise. You could add serrations to S110V and get a combo where it will probably never go full to the point where it won't cut things, but if you chip the edge (or break off a tooth) you'll be in for a long sharpening session to fix it. Since I'm maintaining my edges more routinely, I just don't have a need for steels like that. I keep them sharp and I spend more time with a sharper edge than the next guy who relies on a working edge and edge retention.

With serrations the enjoyment factor tends to drop right along with sharpness for me. I know that sounds like I'd really want a steel that holds an edge longer, it seems like reverse logic but 30 strokes on my Sharpmaker isn't exactly a hassle to deal with at the end of the day.

I’ve come full circle on this as well... sometimes learning lessons costs you lots of money!!!

[soulspy]

VG10 works great. Seems to not chip and it sharpens very easily. My first Spydercos (around 1992) were the Rescue models as I was an avid river rat. I abused them believing at the time that I had spent good money on a knife and it should withstand anything. My logic was off, but the knives did hold up. Only ever saw a tiny spot of orange rust after years of living in wet gear. I learned of the sharpmaker when I saw it at a friends. I would touch up that VG10 serrated Rescue and I was always amazed at how well it would sharpen back up.

In our exciting world of newish super steels, sometimes we forget that we have had very good options for almost 40 years.

[Giygas]

Id have to say my ZDP189 Endura has been the best SE knife ive used.

Generally, i like SE on lower wear resistance steels for obvious reasons, but im pretty sure that knife could survive the apocalypse and still cut just fine.

Ive recently been comparing BD1N in SE and PE and im really surprised by both edges, and the steel in general. I had ignorantly dismissed it due to my disappointment with BD1, but that was definitely a mistake!

Great topic. Looking forward to hearing other peoples experiences.

[prndltech]

Thanks guys. This thread made me finally pull the trigger on an SE endela.

[Wartstein]

Thanks guys. This thread made me finally pull the trigger on an SE endela.

Great!! :)

Please report how you like it!

[Sumdumguy]

Gin1 had the sharpest serrations I've ever seen, but VG-10 is my personal favorite/benchmark. H1 didn't wow me, but I'm going to try it again once I find a Salt 1 SE. I found that it took damage too quick, but again, I'm going to give it another shake soon.

I really wish we could get some more models in LC200N SE. Perhaps some small ones.

My Micro Dyad would look great as a hunk of LC! Throw on a CF inlay or something and that would be allllright in my book.

As of now, my next SE will be the Rockjumper in VG-10.(unless I find a deal on a Salt 1)

[prndltech]

Thanks guys. This thread made me finally pull the trigger on an SE endela.

Great!! :)

Please report how you like it!

I’d been toying with the idea since they came out. I had always picked up something else and would forget about it. But then I came across a great deal for $60 for a new one so I couldn’t resist. The time was right, finally. I love the pacific salt in SE, and I love FFG blades.... I’m sure I won’t have anything but good to say.

[JonLeBlanc]

I’ll second the nod for BDN1, it’s performing great on my serrated Z-Cut. And that is one THIN blade whooo nelly

[Wartstein]

I’ll second the nod for BDN1, it’s performing great on my serrated Z-Cut. And that is one THIN blade whooo nelly

... So... Manix 2 LW SE, where are you... :rolleyes: :D

[JonLeBlanc]

I’m so far away from the Manix that the light from the Manix would take a million years to reach me Just kidding, it’s a cool knife of course, and I’m glad it’s a hit for Spyderco, it just doesn’t really push my buttons. I’m not a fan of leaf shaped blades in general. But again, cool knife.

[Wartstein]

I’m so far away from the Manix that the light from the Manix would take a million years to reach me Just kidding, it’s a cool knife of course, and I’m glad it’s a hit for Spyderco, it just doesn’t really push my buttons. I’m not a fan of leaf shaped blades in general. But again, cool knife.

:p
Manix 2 LW Se would just be an option in BD1N with teeth (besides the kitchen Spydies there is only the Para 3 LW in this configuration, right?!)

[JonLeBlanc]

I’m so far away from the Manix that the light from the Manix would take a million years to reach me Just kidding, it’s a cool knife of course, and I’m glad it’s a hit for Spyderco, it just doesn’t really push my buttons. I’m not a fan of leaf shaped blades in general. But again, cool knife.

:p
Manix 2 LW Se would just be an option in BD1N with teeth (besides the kitchen Spydies there is only the Para 3 LW in this configuration, right?!)

I could’ve sworn there were maybe a couple more, but you could be right. And yes I’m sure a SE BDN1 Manix would make many people happy! I don’t consider myself a great student of Hume, but maximizing happiness seems alright lol.

[James Y]

I can’t answer which steels are best for serrations, but I have the most personal experience with SE Spydercos in VG-10 and H1. I also have some in ATS-55, AUS-8 and AUS-6, but I like the former-mentioned steels better than the latter.

I haven’t had any problems with SE VG-10 or H1. I have had H1 serrations roll on me pretty easily at times. I’ve never experienced teeth in those steels chipping. TBH, depending on the knife model and how the teeth are ground, I often prefer SE VG-10 over H1. I know that, according to Spyderco’s testing, that SE H1 holds an edge longer than all others. But I’ve found that for me, the SE VG-10 just feels a bit ‘harder’ or more stable than the H1, while still being easy to work with.

Someday, I would like to try FFG SE LC200N.

Jim

[Sonorum]

I have felt underwhelmed by SE H1 and perfectly happy with VG10.
I do like my serrations fairly easily maintained so I'm not sure that I would like some steel that's over the top.

[JD Spydo]

When it comes to favorite blade steels for serrated blades I've found the following to work well for me: ATS-36, ATS-55, GIN-1, AUS-8 to name a few of the old generation Spyderco blade steels. I ended up buying several VG-10 models and I found that it to be one steel that I liked in PE & SE both

Recently I've discovered XHP to also be good in SE & PE both. I've put all of these blade steels through hard use and discovered them by trial and error. All of these I mentioned have worked well for me.

[Theldraskien]

I’d like to try Rex45 with teeth. Low carbide volume. Not chippy. Great sharpening response. Seems like it would be a winner. Sal mentioned testing K390, Rex45 seems like a gimme.