Pm2 S110V

[Dwight K Shrute]

Welcome to the sickness! You picked a beauty for the first spyderco! I'm carrying the same one right now. Enjoy. It wont be your last.

Hey Albert. Thank you! It isn’t my first Spyderco it’s it’s going to be my fifth! It’s my first pm2 though. I have a para 3 LW, Manix 2XL, Manix 2 LW, and a tenacious (my first Spyderco). I have only been collecting knives for the last couple months but I was instantly hooked on Spyderco! Spyderco makes up the majority of my small collection.

[Big50]

It’s the only PM2 I own.
I found the factory edge chipped real easy.
I reprofiled it with a 17°convex (and later with an 18° KME). Never any problems after the first sharpening.

It’s my go-to work knife and I use it hard. Holds a great edge.

[JonLeBlanc]

That is a wonderful piece. It’s essentially sprint/exclusive level at production availability. As long as you aren’t torquing through hard plastic etc you don’t have much to worry about on the edge, just keep it current as other have suggested.

Hey jonleblanc, thank you! As far as touch ups go I have a Lansky angle guided system. I should be okay just doing touch ups at 20degrees on this knife?

Sure man, any angle you like! Well maybe not ANY angle lol. Your Lansky setup should make it super easy.

[Sumdumguy]

Beware of zipties!

Seriously.

[JustinB]

Beware of zipties!

Seriously.

Also beware of cutting threads wound around a high speed steel drill bit. That's what made me need to completely reprofile my chipped out S110v Para :rolleyes:

I've never claimed to be a smart man :p

[Dwight K Shrute]

Beware of zipties!

Seriously.

Hey sumdumguy! It chipped on zip ties?

[Ankerson]

Hi Dwight,

Welcome to our forum.

I think the knife will serve you well. S110V is a very special steel. Don't let it get too dull. The best way to maintain these "Exotic" steels is to touch up often. Sharpmaker works fine.

sal

Thanks sal! It’s so cool to hear from the man himself! I don’t have a sharpmaker. I do have the Lansky angle system. What angle should I do touch ups at? 20degrees? And is that the standard angle for most factory Spyderco edges?

Not Sal but the edge bevels are around 15 DPS out of the box.


I highly recommend sharpening it before you use it the 1st time.

Since you have a Lansky set it to 15 DPS and raise a good bur on each side using the coarse stone. That means raise a bur on one side then flip the blade and raise a bur again. Then sharpen as normal from there to what finish you like.

I recommend between 400 and 600 grit for best results.

Touch ups every now and then depending would be fine on a ceramic rod or Sharpmaker...

As far as use goes, just use as you would any other steel really, like S30V as an example and it will be fine.



Here is mine, just use it for cutting down cardboard, I keep it in a cup with pens etc.

I actually just cleaned up the blade after I took the photo, got the glue off (WD-40) then made 2 passes total on my Strop loaded with DMT #6q Compound and hair was flying off my arm again... Doesn't take much at all to maintain S110V really.





Photo after....

Hey ankerson! My Landry only goes to 17 degrees. I have a diamond coarse, the standard coarse 120, the standard medium, standard fine 600, and the strop attachment. So you recommend sharpening it as soon as I get it? I’ve spent the last two weeks practicing burr sharpening (I’ve sharpened a lot of my buddies cheap knives lol) mostly in CTS bd1n and 8cr. I know s110v is going to be a completely different animal. I don’t have a sharpmaker. But touching it up with my fine stone at 17degrees on the Lansky s should be ok right? I’m assuming you want me to sharpen it right away to set my own angle that I can touch up easily without having to remove material?

17 Degrees is fine.

The reason is to make sure you get the best performance and no issues like poor edge retention and or chipping. Same for any steel and or knife that has been machine sharpened.

Basically getting down to the new steel by removing the factory edge.

I recommend getting a Sharpmaker, can't be beat for quick touchups.

[Sumdumguy]

Beware of zipties!

Seriously.

Hey sumdumguy! It chipped on zip ties?

Yes. There was a zip tie holding a coax cable outside of a house. I had to stick it in and pop the tie.

I guess there was a bit of torque during the cut and it chipped the heck out of it. Never did get it sharpened all the way out.

[Dwight K Shrute]

Ok thank you! This advice helps a lot! The sharpmaker goes to 15degrees. Will sharpening it in my Lansky to 17 and then touching it up as needed on the 15 degree sharpmaker mess it up? Or are the angles close enough?

Also do you recommend that diamond strop paste? I want to get some kind of compound for my little Lansky strop


Not Sal but the edge bevels are around 15 DPS out of the box.


I highly recommend sharpening it before you use it the 1st time.

Since you have a Lansky set it to 15 DPS and raise a good bur on each side using the coarse stone. That means raise a bur on one side then flip the blade and raise a bur again. Then sharpen as normal from there to what finish you like.

I recommend between 400 and 600 grit for best results.

Touch ups every now and then depending would be fine on a ceramic rod or Sharpmaker...

As far as use goes, just use as you would any other steel really, like S30V as an example and it will be fine.



Here is mine, just use it for cutting down cardboard, I keep it in a cup with pens etc.

I actually just cleaned up the blade after I took the photo, got the glue off (WD-40) then made 2 passes total on my Strop loaded with DMT #6q Compound and hair was flying off my arm again... Doesn't take much at all to maintain S110V really.





Photo after....

Hey ankerson! My Landry only goes to 17 degrees. I have a diamond coarse, the standard coarse 120, the standard medium, standard fine 600, and the strop attachment. So you recommend sharpening it as soon as I get it? I’ve spent the last two weeks practicing burr sharpening (I’ve sharpened a lot of my buddies cheap knives lol) mostly in CTS bd1n and 8cr. I know s110v is going to be a completely different animal. I don’t have a sharpmaker. But touching it up with my fine stone at 17degrees on the Lansky s should be ok right? I’m assuming you want me to sharpen it right away to set my own angle that I can touch up easily without having to remove material?

17 Degrees is fine.

The reason is to make sure you get the best performance and no issues like poor edge retention and or chipping. Same for any steel and or knife that has been machine sharpened.

Basically getting down to the new steel by removing the factory edge.

I recommend getting a Sharpmaker, can't be beat for quick touchups.

[Dwight K Shrute]

Ok thank you! This advice helps a lot! The sharpmaker goes to 15degrees. Will sharpening it in my Lansky to 17 and then touching it up as needed on the 15 degree sharpmaker mess it up? Or are the angles close enough?

Also do you recommend that diamond strop paste? I want to get some kind of compound for my little Lansky strop


Not Sal but the edge bevels are around 15 DPS out of the box.


I highly recommend sharpening it before you use it the 1st time.

Since you have a Lansky set it to 15 DPS and raise a good bur on each side using the coarse stone. That means raise a bur on one side then flip the blade and raise a bur again. Then sharpen as normal from there to what finish you like.

I recommend between 400 and 600 grit for best results.

Touch ups every now and then depending would be fine on a ceramic rod or Sharpmaker...

As far as use goes, just use as you would any other steel really, like S30V as an example and it will be fine.



Here is mine, just use it for cutting down cardboard, I keep it in a cup with pens etc.

I actually just cleaned up the blade after I took the photo, got the glue off (WD-40) then made 2 passes total on my Strop loaded with DMT #6q Compound and hair was flying off my arm again... Doesn't take much at all to maintain S110V really.





Photo after....

Hey ankerson! My Landry only goes to 17 degrees. I have a diamond coarse, the standard coarse 120, the standard medium, standard fine 600, and the strop attachment. So you recommend sharpening it as soon as I get it? I’ve spent the last two weeks practicing burr sharpening (I’ve sharpened a lot of my buddies cheap knives lol) mostly in CTS bd1n and 8cr. I know s110v is going to be a completely different animal. I don’t have a sharpmaker. But touching it up with my fine stone at 17degrees on the Lansky s should be ok right? I’m assuming you want me to sharpen it right away to set my own angle that I can touch up easily without having to remove material?

17 Degrees is fine.

The reason is to make sure you get the best performance and no issues like poor edge retention and or chipping. Same for any steel and or knife that has been machine sharpened.

Basically getting down to the new steel by removing the factory edge.

I recommend getting a Sharpmaker, can't be beat for quick touchups.

Ok thank you! This advice helps a lot! The sharpmaker goes to 15degrees. Will sharpening it in my Lansky to 17 and then touching it up as needed on the 15 degree sharpmaker mess it up? Or are the angles close enough?

Also do you recommend that diamond strop paste? I want to get some kind of compound for my little Lansky strop

[Ankerson]

Hey ankerson! My Landry only goes to 17 degrees. I have a diamond coarse, the standard coarse 120, the standard medium, standard fine 600, and the strop attachment. So you recommend sharpening it as soon as I get it? I’ve spent the last two weeks practicing burr sharpening (I’ve sharpened a lot of my buddies cheap knives lol) mostly in CTS bd1n and 8cr. I know s110v is going to be a completely different animal. I don’t have a sharpmaker. But touching it up with my fine stone at 17degrees on the Lansky s should be ok right? I’m assuming you want me to sharpen it right away to set my own angle that I can touch up easily without having to remove material?

17 Degrees is fine.

The reason is to make sure you get the best performance and no issues like poor edge retention and or chipping. Same for any steel and or knife that has been machine sharpened.

Basically getting down to the new steel by removing the factory edge.

I recommend getting a Sharpmaker, can't be beat for quick touchups.

Ok thank you! This advice helps a lot! The sharpmaker goes to 15degrees. Will sharpening it in my Lansky to 17 and then touching it up as needed on the 15 degree sharpmaker mess it up? Or are the angles close enough?

Also do you recommend that diamond strop paste? I want to get some kind of compound for my little Lansky strop

Yes, the DMT paste is good.

Yes, 17 to 20 degrees on the Sharpmaker is the way to go for touchups. 17 to 15 won't do anything....

Only takes a few passes to touch it up.

[Dwight K Shrute]

17 Degrees is fine.

The reason is to make sure you get the best performance and no issues like poor edge retention and or chipping. Same for any steel and or knife that has been machine sharpened.

Basically getting down to the new steel by removing the factory edge.

I recommend getting a Sharpmaker, can't be beat for quick touchups.

Ok thank you! This advice helps a lot! The sharpmaker goes to 15degrees. Will sharpening it in my Lansky to 17 and then touching it up as needed on the 15 degree sharpmaker mess it up? Or are the angles close enough?

Also do you recommend that diamond strop paste? I want to get some kind of compound for my little Lansky strop

Yes, the DMT paste is good.

Yes, 17 to 20 degrees on the Sharpmaker is the way to go for touchups. 17 to 15 won't do anything....

Only takes a few passes to touch it up.

Ok so just to clarify you’re saying full sharpen at 17degrees on Lansky and do touch ups at 20degrees on the sharpmaker? Sorry I want to make sure I understand right. And again thank you so much! One of the best things about getting into knives is discovering this awesome community!

[Ankerson]

Ok thank you! This advice helps a lot! The sharpmaker goes to 15degrees. Will sharpening it in my Lansky to 17 and then touching it up as needed on the 15 degree sharpmaker mess it up? Or are the angles close enough?

Also do you recommend that diamond strop paste? I want to get some kind of compound for my little Lansky strop

Yes, the DMT paste is good.

Yes, 17 to 20 degrees on the Sharpmaker is the way to go for touchups. 17 to 15 won't do anything....

Only takes a few passes to touch it up.

Ok so just to clarify you’re saying full sharpen at 17degrees on Lansky and do touch ups at 20degrees on the sharpmaker? Sorry I want to make sure I understand right. And again thank you so much! One of the best things about getting into knives is discovering this awesome community!

Yes exactly.

Will only take a few light passes with the brown stones to touch up.

[Ankerson]

The biggest thing with S110V is not to overthink it when sharpening.

Normally it's at a good hardness level with the Spyderco models so it will not be very difficult to remove the bur.

Just treat it like most of the other steels like S30V etc. when sharpening and you won't have much difficulty with it.

The other biggest thing is as with most knives set the bevels were you want them then it's mostly touchups after that. Makes things relatively simple really, if you don't let the blade get completely dull it's easier to touch up quickly.

Was just a few things to try and help based on what I have seen over the years with S110V in a pretty large variety of knives in the steel.

Never found S110V to be difficult to sharpen or even that much different than a lot of other steels have been personally so it's not really that big of a deal IMO.

[johnson]

I Bought mine in 2016. I Used it every now and then for the first two years but for the last two years it's been my EDC at least five days of the week. You can take Jim's advice, I agree with everything he said. I Sharpen mine with a Lansky using the 17 degree setting and only go up to the medium stone (280 grit I think). I Then put a micro bevel on it with the Sharpmaker at 20 degrees using the brown rods. I Also do the touch ups with the brown rods once a week and it comes of easily shaving hair. I Did try the white rods as well but it feels as if the brown ones gets it sharper and more aggressive.

[Dwight K Shrute]

I Bought mine in 2016. I Used it every now and then for the first two years but for the last two years it's been my EDC at least five days of the week. You can take Jim's advice, I agree with everything he said. I Sharpen mine with a Lansky using the 17 degree setting and only go up to the medium stone (280 grit I think). I Then put a micro bevel on it with the Sharpmaker at 20 degrees using the brown rods. I Also do the touch ups with the brown rods once a week and it comes of easily shaving hair. I Did try the white rods as well but it feels as if the brown ones gets it sharper and more aggressive.pm2(1).jpeg pm2(2).jpeg

Hey Johnson! I haven’t tried putting a micro bevel on any of my knives yet. What are the benefits to adding one to the edge? I just sharpen all my knives at 20degrees through all my stones and then strop.

[Dwight K Shrute]

The biggest thing with S110V is not to overthink it when sharpening.

Normally it's at a good hardness level with the Spyderco models so it will not be very difficult to remove the bur.

Just treat it like most of the other steels like S30V etc. when sharpening and you won't have much difficulty with it.

The other biggest thing is as with most knives set the bevels were you want them then it's mostly touchups after that. Makes things relatively simple really, if you don't let the blade get completely dull it's easier to touch up quickly.

Was just a few things to try and help based on what I have seen over the years with S110V in a pretty large variety of knives in the steel.

Never found S110V to be difficult to sharpen or even that much different than a lot of other steels have been personally so it's not really that big of a deal IMO.

Ok that’s great info man! Thanks for the help. I got the knife in the mail today. It’s perfect, the action was drop shut out of the box, no blade play, perfect centering. I’m really impressed with this knife and I’m wondering why it took 3 months to grab a PM2.

[Ankerson]

The biggest thing with S110V is not to overthink it when sharpening.

Normally it's at a good hardness level with the Spyderco models so it will not be very difficult to remove the bur.

Just treat it like most of the other steels like S30V etc. when sharpening and you won't have much difficulty with it.

The other biggest thing is as with most knives set the bevels were you want them then it's mostly touchups after that. Makes things relatively simple really, if you don't let the blade get completely dull it's easier to touch up quickly.

Was just a few things to try and help based on what I have seen over the years with S110V in a pretty large variety of knives in the steel.

Never found S110V to be difficult to sharpen or even that much different than a lot of other steels have been personally so it's not really that big of a deal IMO.

Ok that’s great info man! Thanks for the help. I got the knife in the mail today. It’s perfect, the action was drop shut out of the box, no blade play, perfect centering. I’m really impressed with this knife and I’m wondering why it took 3 months to grab a PM2.

Great, have fun. :D :spyder: