Spyderco Forums

Some call it rust, some call it oxidation. I clean mine using this weird sponge looking thing called "Sandflex Hand Block". It works well enough, but Im curious as to how you do it.

Depends... If you’re talking about the black pepper spots (Fe3O4), I don’t. I just let them happen on my high carbon knives. The black oxide won’t hurt the blade. If you’re talking about red rust (Fe2O3), I’ve used a pencil eraser type remover and it worked but it smudged the finish too much to my liking. I try my best to prevent rust ever forming, but on the rare occasion I find it, I use #0000 steel wool and it works pretty well. It also doesn’t alter the finish nearly as much as the eraser.

I use a loaded strop, or fine sandpaper in severe cases.

I don’t mind patina, but I avoid leaving concentrated pepper spots that may initiate pitting sites.

Usually flitz if for not other reason than to prevent more, but gotta be careful or you'll have a shiney spot and the rest will be satin lol

For the rust in the below picture, I'll use Flitz

I know its rust because an oiled paper towel removes orange color from the blade.

That's a Lil Native in REX-45 with the clip removed. I carry it deep pocket in thin dress pants and then end up sweating through my clothing while working.

The salt in my sweat is what causes those spots.

It'll be fine!

SubMicron wrote: For the rust in the below picture, I'll use Flitz

I know its rust because an oiled paper towel removes orange color from the blade.

Screenshot_20200701-112134_Gallery.jpg

That's a Lil Native in REX-45 with the clip removed. I carry it deep pocket in thin dress pants and then end up sweating through my clothing while working.

The salt in my sweat is what causes those spots.

It'll be fine!

Interesting. I just ordered one of those and it will be the first non-Stainless knife I carry.

How do you prevent that? Light oil?

atv223 wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 01, 2020 10:34 am

SubMicron wrote: For the rust in the below picture, I'll use Flitz

I know its rust because an oiled paper towel removes orange color from the blade.


Screenshot_20200701-112134_Gallery.jpg

That's a Lil Native in REX-45 with the clip removed. I carry it deep pocket in thin dress pants and then end up sweating through my clothing while working.

The salt in my sweat is what causes those spots.

It'll be fine!

Interesting. I just ordered one of those and it will be the first non-Stainless knife I carry.

How do you prevent that? Light oil?

Any penetrating oil will work as do various corrosion inhibitors on the market.

In this case, that blade was covered in oil. However if you look at the pic, the rust spots are on the exposed top half of the blade. My theory is that my cloths wipe the oil off in my pocket, exposing the top of the blade to the salt in my sweat.

Really its irrelevant if you stay on top of it. Letting it go and not removing it will lead to pitting eventually. What matters is the pivot so I keep that lubbed well.

Most oils used on knife pivots are very light. So far I'm happy using 85 weight NanoOil and feel that it sticks around better than the 10 weight NanoOil along with KPL.

Stop thinking of corrosion spots as your enemy. They are your friend and are the early indicator that your knife needs some TLC.

If your going to sweat through your cloths, nothing will stop the spots on your blade. Just make sure the pivot is always wet with oil and chase after the spots with Flitz as needed.

I coat any of my carbon stuff with some sort of oil. Was using Fireclean but swapped to Boeshield as it's easier to find here.

If I have to clean a blade I use blue scotchbrite pads followed up with Flitz on a soft cloth.

Anything that's carbon I will force a patina prior to regular carry.

I would use flitz to remove, and a very thin layer of mineral oil to prevent, I use mineral oil on all my tool steels, it's cheap, easy to find, and food safe... works great.

JMM wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 01, 2020 2:50 pm

I would use flitz to remove, and a very thin layer of mineral oil to prevent, I use mineral oil on all my tool steels, it's cheap, easy to find, and food safe... works great.

I second this.

Others on the forum have also recommended Vasoline or Carmex for rust prone steels. Both are food safe and both will stay put on your blade.

Strop with non-diamond buffing compound.

JRinFL wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 01, 2020 4:45 pm

Others on the forum have also recommended Vasoline or Carmex for rust prone steels. Both are food safe and both will stay put on your blade.

Vasoline is edible?

No thanks!

For prevention, I use tsubaki/camellia oil since I already had a big bottle of it for my kitchen knives and I have had excellent results with it. If you don't need it to be food safe, Tuf-Cloth works wonders.

I use the powdered version of Bar Keepers Friend. I put a bit on a towel, wet it, and rub the rust off. Then I apply a thin coat of oil on the blade to help prevent further corrosion.

For protection I use a thin layer of mineral oil or tsubaki oil on non stainless knives that will touch food. Ballistol and a lanolin based spray oil called Lanox have also worked well for me on non food contact knives.

fixall wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 01, 2020 6:31 pm

For prevention, I use tsubaki/camellia oil since I already had a big bottle of it for my kitchen knives and I have had excellent results with it.

Great stuff, fixall ... always have a bottle handy!

It doesn’t go rancid and it’s lovely on your skin. A bit like coconut oil but lighter and without a fragrance. :)

JuPaul wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 01, 2020 3:05 pm

I second this.

I usually coat all of my corrosion prone blades in tuff glide. I've never had a problem with a knife oxidizing when carefully maintained with tuff glide. But I also don't tend to carry my non stainless blades in the summer. I know that's a bit finicky but blade oxidation drives me crazy!

Bloke wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 01, 2020 8:56 pm

fixall wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 01, 2020 6:31 pm

For prevention, I use tsubaki/camellia oil since I already had a big bottle of it for my kitchen knives and I have had excellent results with it.

Great stuff, fixall ... always have a bottle handy!

It doesn’t go rancid and it’s lovely on your skin. A bit like coconut oil but lighter and without a fragrance. :)

We use the same brand! :D

Really great stuff. I live in the same city as Bob Kramer (Master Bladesmith) and I took a tour of his shop and he suggested I use it on my kitchen knives and I haven’t looked back. :)