First Spyderco: Manix 2 LW, pivot tightness/blade play issue. Is this normal for the model?

[metaphoricalsimile]

I bought my first Spyderco and did quite a bit of research before settling on the Manix 2 LW. It fell within my budget and had a locking mechanism that looked pretty ideal, and a blade size and shape that was what I was looking for, since my EDC is a tiny knife and I wanted something bigger for a lot of the handy-man work I've been doing lately.

So the good thing is that I love how light it is, and the blade shape is indeed very ideal, and the CTS-BD1N steel has been seeing some pretty heavy use without chipping or rolling (although I am careful not to abuse my pocket knives, they are a cutting tool only). Other than a burr it had out of the box that I was able to remove very easily with a stone, it has stayed quite sharp and I am more impressed by the steel than I would expect to be.

My big problem with the knife, however, is that I can't tune the action such that it is both easy and smooth without blade play. If I tune the screw tightness to have a very free-swinging blade with the lock disengaged, it has a very significant amount of blade play. If I tune the blade to have no side-to-side play the blade is way too stiff to flick open or closed. I have thus far settled for *some* blade play, and a blade that requires some wrist action to one-hand open reliably.

Am I doing something wrong, or is this how they are supposed to be, or should I actually look at sending this knife back to spyderco?

[Wartstein]

Welcome to the forum and congrats on the Manix 2 LW, it is a great choice! :)

I second what you say about the BD1N steel in this model, I am impressed with its performance too. Clearly better than I´d have expected.

Now concerning your issue: The Manix 2 LW I got quite recently, was also rather stiff out of the box concerning the action (had a Manix 2 LW before, this first one was a lot smoother when I got it).
I personally don´t need and want a "very free swinging blade" (to quote you), but sure be able to flick the knife open rather easily.
I just can give you the advice: Give your Manix time to break in! Mine did eventually, but it took quite some time (more than I am used to with my backlock knives). Good luck, and enjoy the knife! :)

[Red]

I second what Warstein said. I recently had a new Manix 2 that was also similar to what your stating and after some break in time, it was perfect. I am in the minority here, but when breaking in a new knife, I dont use oil. Let the metal polish on metal at first, then clean and use a little oil. At least, thats always worked for me.

Congrats on your Manix, I love mine as an edc!

[TomAiello]

Welcome to the forum!

Have you put any lubrication on the pivot?

I generally don't care if my Manii can "free swing" or not. Having zero blade play is a lot more important to me. I can always open/close one handed, of course, and they all "wrist flick" closed when the lock is disengaged.

In general, when new they have not swung freely, and over time they break in to that point. It also seems like the G-10 models get there more quickly than the lightweights. I think the only Manix I've had that was free swinging out of the box was a G-10/s30v hollow grind.

I'm not sure what your definition of a free swinging blade is, but I just grabbed the three examples that were in easy arms reach (I'm a bit of a Manix freak);

4v (St Nicks) is 100% free swinging. From closed the blade swings freely when the lock is opened, and from open the blade swings all the way to the closed position from gravity when held horizontal to the ground.

s90v (was originally CF, now after market g-10) blade falls free to about 80 degrees from closed when lock is disengaged but does not swing freely after that point. From open the blade falls to about 145 degrees (so about 45 degrees from fully closed) when the knife is held horizontal to the ground. If the lock is disengaged with the knife in a 45 degree point high position, the blade falls all the way back to closed.

Maxamet LW blade falls free to about 60 degrees from closed when lock is disengaged but does not swing freely after that point. If the lock is disengaged with the knife in a point high position, the blade falls to about 90 degrees (halfway between open and closed).

My guess is that you'd call my 4v Manix 'free swinging' and my s90v and Maxamet 'not free swinging'.

As I said (above) all three are smooth enough that I can flick them open and close them by disengaging the lock and flicking my wrist (without touching the blade).

[JuPaul]

All of my g10 Manixes have been more or less free swinging out of the box (with maybe only a very slight tweak to the pivot). The one Manix lw that I currently own was definitely not. Much stiffer out of the box no matter how much I adjusted the pivot. However it has "improved" a lot with use. Now after a month or two of carrying it and fidgeting with it regularly, it still won't drop freely, but I can easily swing it shut. That works for me, and I think it'll get even better, but I still prefer the action on the g10 Manixes.

[metaphoricalsimile]

Welcome to the forum!
I can always open/close one handed, of course, and they all "wrist flick" closed when the lock is disengaged.

Ok, so that's the issue. If I tighten the pivot enough to eliminate blade play entirely it absolutely does *not* wrist flick closed when the lock is disengaged. It is tight enough that I can only two-hand open or close it.

I know some people think blade play is no big deal but in my experience a mechanical pivot or bearing that has play in it is a sign of a part that will wear faster than one that does not have play, and as I intend this knife to be used for more heavy-duty cutting tasks than envelopes and cardboard boxes I definitely want to make sure it is going to be rugged and long-lasting.

[VooDooChild]

Manix 2 lightweights do take time to break in.

However, even when new and "tight", if the blade play is eliminated (as it should be), they should still be able to be operated with one hand.

Especially opening, that pivot should not have to be so tight that the knife still does not open easily. If its that tight to eliminate blade play it sounds like you might have to send it in.

[bdblue]

I don't care if it free swings or not, I think I prefer a little friction.
I just got back from an offroad trip in Colorado where I carried my Manix 2 S110V version so it is setting right here on my desk. When I pull the lock tab the blade drops almost 1/4 turn then stops. This is just right for me, I turn the handle over and finish closing it with my thumb. And for the record I typically do not adjust pivot tension in my knives nor do I add lubrication unless they become too stiff for me.

[TomAiello]

Welcome to the forum!
I can always open/close one handed, of course, and they all "wrist flick" closed when the lock is disengaged.

Ok, so that's the issue. If I tighten the pivot enough to eliminate blade play entirely it absolutely does *not* wrist flick closed when the lock is disengaged. It is tight enough that I can only two-hand open or close it.

I don't think I've ever had one that tight, even out of the box--and I've had _a lot_ of Manii. I can pretty much always wrist flick them closed (or open) with the lock disengaged.

Have you put any lubricant on the pivot?

[MichaelScott]

Seems to me like a solution looking for a problem. What credible difference can it it make it if a knife blade swings to close yet have no blade play when open and locked?

It is just a knife, a folding knife, and like other pieces of machinery will change its is action over time. Personally, I would not bother with it nor send it in since it is obviously not a defect of materials or workmanship. Use it, love it, or move it on.

[metaphoricalsimile]

Seems to me like a solution looking for a problem. What credible difference can it it make it if a knife blade swings to close yet have no blade play when open and locked?

It is just a knife, a folding knife, and like other pieces of machinery will change its is action over time. Personally, I would not bother with it nor send it in since it is obviously not a defect of materials or workmanship. Use it, love it, or move it on.

It *does* have blade play when open and locked.

[MichaelScott]

Seems to me like a solution looking for a problem. What credible difference can it it make it if a knife blade swings to close yet have no blade play when open and locked?

It is just a knife, a folding knife, and like other pieces of machinery will change its is action over time. Personally, I would not bother with it nor send it in since it is obviously not a defect of materials or workmanship. Use it, love it, or move it on.

It *does* have blade play when open and locked.

Does it still open and close reasonably well?

[Wartstein]

It *does* have blade play when open and locked.

Just to give you some perspective / comparison:

- My Manix 2 LW, now that it has broken in rather nicely has no blade play when open and locked.
- When I hold the knife horizontally (so edge facing to the ground) and fully disengage the lock, the blade drops rather slowly to I´d say 30 to 40% percent closed.
- That´s fine with me, cause I can easily flick the knife open with the thumb, and when doing so with index, middle or ring finger I have to add perhaps just a tiny bit of wrist motion
- I can for example also easily disengage the lock with just the thumb and then "guide" the blade to the closed position with my index finger.
- It is not a "free dropper" (like my first Manix LW and every comp. lock knife I handled was), but I like it the way it is. I never even bothered to play with the pivot screw.

I´d say: If after a good amount of breaking in and maybe a drop of oil YOUR Manix has real blade play and can still not do what I described above, than there could potentially be an issue.
But, as said: Give it some time! :)

[metaphoricalsimile]

It looks like the inside of my pivot has some of the FRN material. Is this normal? This could be causing my problem if it is not.

[metaphoricalsimile]

How do you actually get lube down into the washers?

[Wartstein]

It looks like the inside of my pivot has some of the FRN material. Is this normal? This could be causing my problem if it is not.

I don´t fully get what you mean by that?
And I am afraid the pic is too blurry for me to really see what could be the issue... :o

[MichaelScott]

Clean it out and see.

[metaphoricalsimile]

Clean it out and see.

It's plastic inside my pivot bushing, cleaning it out would involve drilling and if it's supposed to be there I don't want to remove the material.