Spyderco Forums

First off, long time lurker and just learned I never registered as a member. Happy to be official.

Been a big fan of the Manix 2 model, both Standard and LW variants. Recently acquired the 4v Radon exclusive and switched out the blade into some G10 scales from the DLT 20cv. 4v in red G10 is flawless. However, the 20cv in the marbled CF scales has a clicking that can be heard at the beginning of the opening blade swing. I’ve done my share of Manix swaps, but this is the first time I’ve encountered this. Seems that others have this problem, too. Pretty sure the sound is coming from the ball cage/bearing.

Has anyone had this problem and successfully corrected the issue?

It's something about the cage that causes the clicking noise. A Flytanium cage caused an otherwise perfect knife to click really loud. Plastic cage went back in and the click was gone.

Try swapping the cage between the two, maybe?

Welcome!

I get clicking on my Manixes when I swap out the steel ball bearing for a ceramic one. It wears in and goes away with use, at least on my knives.

Hi Riggz, welcome to the forum!

I have only one Manix 2, a lightweight model, and mine has the same click you describe. I don't know how to get rid of it. It doesn't bother me, though.

Of my 6 CBBL knives, 2 have that click. I haven’t seen or read anything about the clicking causing any problems, so I don’t worry about it. If anything, I kinda like it because it might provide a warning on the off chance that the knife opens in my pocket.

My new BHQ M4 Manix2 XL has the click, as does my G10 XHP Manix2, both have a mild case of it though, doesn't bother me.

None of mine click, but I have not done a blade swap.

JMM wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 19, 2020 8:32 pm

My new BHQ M4 Manix2 XL has the click, as does my G10 XHP Manix2, both have a mild case of it though, doesn't bother me.

Worth noting I guess: My new XL did it out of the box. My XHP was second hand so I don't know the history of it.

I like the clicking noise. I did add a flyti cause the plastic just didn't look right with the mable cf.

It’s normal. Most of mine either don’t have it or aren’t noticeable. The g10 s110v Manix I gave my dad Year’s ago clicks pretty good but I know he uses it pretty hard. As long as the blade functions and locks up solid the click doesn’t bother me.

My M4 Manix XL also does it. Not a big deal.

My regular manix 2 does it, and my m4 xl. Doesn't affect function at all.

Thanks for the responses, everyone.

Interesting feedback on how some click from the factory. If anyone ever figures out a way to reduce/eliminate the click, please post it up. I don’t mind it that much, but wouldn’t mind it gone.

Thanks again

I’ve got a handful of Manix 2s and none of them have it, but my new M4 XL does. I’ll be doing a scale swap on it today so I’ll let yous know if it’s cured.

ETA: Got the scales swapped, but the XL still clicks. I’m going to give it some time to see if it breaks in with use. I had my Manix 2s on the table and noticed the 20CV DLT model clicks too...shrugs...as long as I don’t find performance is being compromised I’ll let them go as is for now.
Time to get them in the rotation!

Titanium is a horrible cage material, it's galling. You need lots of good lubrication.

I have multiple manixes as well, two of them have a faint click, one has a pretty noticeable click. Two of these have all original scales, cages, etc. I never even noticed it until another member mentioned "the click" in another thread a few weeks ago. Hasn't ever been a problem for me.

My regular manix 2 does it, and my m4 xl. Doesn't affect function at all.

interesting
gonna try them out

Wanimator wrote: ↑

Sun Jun 21, 2020 2:32 pm

Titanium is a horrible cage material, it's galling. You need lots of good lubrication.

Is there a lubricant you would recommend to prevent galling? I don't like the look of the black plastic ball cage and want to keep my titanium ball cage. But, it's just not as smooth. Thanks!

It's a problem with the lock that happens very often when you disassemble/reassemble. Nobody has yet to figure out the exact cause, whether it's the spring or cage or whatever.

Spyderco needs to post their method of assembly so we know how to fix it/avoid it.

I personally don't buy Manix's anymore because of it, and everyone excited about the lightweights having screws instead of rivets will now have to deal with it as well. It's a great lock if they would fix this/explain it, but if not then I hope they change it to a compression lock.

joeyviner wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 21, 2022 4:44 pm

It's a problem with the lock that happens very often when you disassemble/reassemble. Nobody has yet to figure out the exact cause, whether it's the spring or cage or whatever.

Spyderco needs to post their method of assembly so we know how to fix it/avoid it.

I personally don't buy Manix's anymore because of it, and everyone excited about the lightweights having screws instead of rivets will now have to deal with it as well. It's a great lock if they would fix this/explain it, but if not then I hope they change it to a compression lock.

This would be a bad idea imho!

Not because the comp.lock is a bad lock, but :

For one there are so much more comp.lock than CBBL knives out there already, it would be sad to loose the only real choice here.

And then the comp.lock would transform the Manix into a really different model:

- Not ambidextrous any more
- No longer that self close bias and safety in the pocket
- Different ergos (for me "comp.lock cutout-hotspot")

This is also true for a linerlock, but not so much for a backlock, which has more similarities to the CBBL in several aspects.