Ate my Bradley 2

[Tomj0000]

Doubt anyone else would ever do this but never use ph up as a acid to force patina. It ate my blade and no longer comes close to the original size. I'm a naturally sweaty guy and after years of daily use, i noticed some rust spots, didn't want it spreading figured I'd force patina. Bad bad bad idea, as the only acid i had was from a old fish tank. I have stomach issues so no apples here. Was one my favorites as they all are, but definitely most used and pretty sure my third spyderco. Just still sad about it and been months

[Wartstein]

Welcome to the forum! :)

Man, that sounds terrible! That stuff actually really dissolved parts of the blade?! An if, in thickness, just in some spots, or even in length / width?!

One thing that is really aggressive concerning Patina / tool steel actually is denture cleanser... not kidding, I found that out by accident:
Luckily I still have my natural teeth , but I use denture cleanser tabs for cleaning my hydration pack or plastic bike bottles (works great and kills all bacteria).
Accidently I put a tool steel blade for just a little while in a bike bottle filled with water and a cleansing tab... man, did that steel react!! :eek:

[jdw]

I would suggest letting a patina form naturally??

[Wartstein]

I would suggest letting a patina form naturally??

+1

I have very little experience with tool steels, but fellow forum member "Pancake" gifted an amazing, very slicey O1 fixed blade to me.
It is in the process of developing a beautiful Patina just by cutting various foods.

[JustinB]

Yeah, letting the patina form naturally is best way. I have a few traditional knives in 1095 that I use to cut fruit and stuff and let the patina form naturally

[The Meat man]

That's too bad!

Pictures?

[cabfrank]

Sorry, that is a shame. Yes, please post pictures if possible.

[Evil D]

I did the same with my first Para 2 with ferric chloride. If you leave it soaking for too long it'll etch off enough steel to ruin the lock and pivot tolerances and it did. It would still lock but the lock bar was totally bottomed out and it had a lot of blade play in every direction. I sold it cheap to a guy who wanted a beater.

[abbazaba]

Pics!

pH up is usually sodium carbonate, which is alkaline.

[Sumdumguy]

I agree, you can't come in with a story like this and not show us. I wanna see some carnage!

:p

[Tomj0000]

The entire thing! I'll see about posting it, even though ruined I'll still keep it.

I know natural patina wound have been best, but i saw rust. Wanted to end that, or slow. I even had layers of tuff glide and tuff cloth. But I'm a very hot person and sweat alot, even around 180lbs it sucks badly at times. I think is why the m4 spotted up.

Didn't expect anyone to respond to this. So I'm going to go back and read what everyone wrote.

[Tomj0000]

Welcome to the forum! :)

Man, that sounds terrible! That stuff actually really dissolved parts of the blade?! An if, in thickness, just in some spots, or even in length / width?!

One thing that is really aggressive concerning Patina / tool steel actually is denture cleanser... not kidding, I found that out by accident:
Luckily I still have my natural teeth , but I use denture cleanser tabs for cleaning my hydration pack or plastic bike bottles (works great and kills all bacteria).
Accidently I put a tool steel blade for just a little while in a bike bottle filled with water and a cleansing tab... man, did that steel react!! :eek:

Yup, it went from full solid lock up to beyond the most play ever see, floppy is the best word that comes to mind. It's sad, being my most used at the time for years! Thinking cause how i sweat, even being around 180lbs.

Thanks for the heads up on denture tab cleaners, i have also used some, also still have my own teeth. Still good to know.

[Tomj0000]

I would suggest letting a patina form naturally??

I would have, and actually stopped applying the tuff glide and cloth right before. Jist once i saw actual rust, that's when i started reading online. Had no other acid.

I want to replace it one day, just won't stop applying blade protection. For some terrible reason i sweat like a beast, yet not even close. I can only assume having the m4 tool steel on me almost all the time did it. Was looking great with the natiral patina till i saw brownish red and saw the pits under my loupe!

I also have a air, had a leather slip made for it and i apply tuff on it regularly! Love that one even more so!

[Tomj0000]

I did the same with my first Para 2 with ferric chloride. If you leave it soaking for too long it'll etch off enough steel to ruin the lock and pivot tolerances and it did. It would still lock but the lock bar was totally bottomed out and it had a lot of blade play in every direction. I sold it cheap to a guy who wanted a beater.

Heck yeah, Evil D responded to my first post! Thank you for that, sir. Haha. I've read alot from you, is just cool to me that you wrote.

Also yes, thank you for relating! Sounds quite like almost the same thing.

Just my body projects so much heat combats with sweat, i hate it ever so. Stopped protecting my blade, spotted some rust. Was the only way to slow, learned a lesson.

Was my old nice beater, now can be my **** beater with nice-ish scales. I scratched that blade up, used it for all kinds of terrible ideas. Kept razor sharp so much i ground that m4 down! Got a strop block since. Even hit bone once, deformed my finger for life, no real cares now. So I definitely got my use out it. Still kinda want another to have that m4 cutting edge again.

But yeah, thanks again!

[Tomj0000]

Pics!

pH up is usually sodium carbonate, which is alkaline.

Yea, yr right.

Was ph down, my bad obviously. I soaked it over a month ago and got them mixed. I checked, was the only ph fluid i still have.

[SpyderGrill]

I did the same with my first Para 2 with ferric chloride. If you leave it soaking for too long it'll etch off enough steel to ruin the lock and pivot tolerances and it did. It would still lock but the lock bar was totally bottomed out and it had a lot of blade play in every direction. I sold it cheap to a guy who wanted a beater.

Did you paint a couple coats of finger nail polish on the pivot area and where the blade makes contact with the lock before you put it into the acid?

I have done 2 knives so far, a liner lock, and a frame lock. Both had zero blade play before and after

[Evil D]

I did the same with my first Para 2 with ferric chloride. If you leave it soaking for too long it'll etch off enough steel to ruin the lock and pivot tolerances and it did. It would still lock but the lock bar was totally bottomed out and it had a lot of blade play in every direction. I sold it cheap to a guy who wanted a beater.

Did you paint a couple coats of finger nail polish on the pivot area and where the blade makes contact with the lock before you put it into the acid?

I have done 2 knives so far, a liner lock, and a frame lock. Both had zero blade play before and after

Nope, didn't know that was necessary at the time.

[sal]

Hi Tom,

Welcome to our forum.

sal

[Bloke]

Luckily I still have my natural teeth

[Sumdumguy]

Luckily I still have my natural teeth

Hey! They are still plural... for now.