Absofreakinlutely. LW and G10. Might as well give the base model g10 skeletonised liners too.
This.
Some won´t understand that, but I guess one of the main reasons why I´d prefer the sprint models (REX 45..) over the "base" model is the reduced weightof the former due to the skel. liners.
Skeletonized G10 Manix: Feels "pm2-ish" in weight, but I prefer the Manix design over the PM2
Full liners G10 Manix: Feels "shamanish" in weight and I´d I´d strongly consider taking a Shaman instead...
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
It been suggested before but we need a Salt Manix so if it’s going to be SE let’s make LC200
Sure. As long as it also comes in full SE...
I'd rather have the SE model in H-1 and the PE model in LC200n. If we only get one steel (likely) I'd rather have LC200n, but I'm unlikely to buy the SE in LC200n.
That´s surprising... which steel does your CE Manix have?! S30V?
No such problems with my VG10 Endela SE (ffg, 3mm stock) whatsoever, even in hard use
H1 SE is uber-though anyway
And if you read Davids ongoing thread about all the things he puts his Caribbean SE through, LC200N also seems to be almost indestructible in SE...
Mine are both 154CM. I had to break down some wood into kindling in a pinch. Might have hit a nail or experienced some lateral force.
I had really bad luck with my 154CM Manix. The blade wouldn't hold an edge, and seemed very soft. It didn't chip, but it rolled all the time. How has your experience been aside from the chipped teeth?
Absofreakinlutely. LW and G10. Might as well give the base model g10 skeletonised liners too.
This.
Some won´t understand that, but I guess one of the main reasons why I´d prefer the sprint models (REX 45..) over the "base" model is the reduced weightof the former due to the skel. liners.
Is it a cost issue?
I drilled out the liners of my s30v Manix on my dad's drill press and the weight of those liners is now basically the same as the skeletonized ones.
Absofreakinlutely. LW and G10. Might as well give the base model g10 skeletonised liners too.
This.
Some won´t understand that, but I guess one of the main reasons why I´d prefer the sprint models (REX 45..) over the "base" model is the reduced weightof the former due to the skel. liners.
Is it a cost issue?
I drilled out the liners of my s30v Manix on my dad's drill press and the weight of those liners is now basically the same as the skeletonized ones.
Yes, that would be an option! And the should be easy to do since the Manix liners are not recessed and the knife easy to disassemble due to that?! (I never disassembled a Manix..obviously, since I only had the pinned together LW..)
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
It been suggested before but we need a Salt Manix so if it’s going to be SE let’s make LC200
Sure. As long as it also comes in full SE...
I'd rather have the SE model in H-1 and the PE model in LC200n. If we only get one steel (likely) I'd rather have LC200n, but I'm unlikely to buy the SE in LC200n.
I´d totally grant you a Manix SE in H1, but that would mean hollow sabre grind. What I´d wish for is SE in an ffg blade. As much as I like the performance of my hollow sabre SE Pac Salt, I still think SE in ffg is even better. Or let´s say: More versatile when it comes to "regular", average knife tasks...
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
After the amazing cutting experiences I've had with the SE Shaman I got a month or so ago, I would 100% be in for a SE Manix2. :)
Cheers,
John
Glad you "found your way to SE"... I just now read the pm you sent me about this, it was on hold since my inbox was full... :o
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
I had really bad luck with my 154CM Manix. The blade wouldn't hold an edge, and seemed very soft. It didn't chip, but it rolled all the time. How has your experience been aside from the chipped teeth?
Fine, except the first couple goes sharpening it I had trouble with it forming a wire edge that would roll as soon as I used it. Advice I received here indicated that was common. It was just a matter of sharpening it a bit more to grind that off.
That´s surprising... which steel does your CE Manix have?! S30V?
No such problems with my VG10 Endela SE (ffg, 3mm stock) whatsoever, even in hard use
H1 SE is uber-though anyway
And if you read Davids ongoing thread about all the things he puts his Caribbean SE through, LC200N also seems to be almost indestructible in SE...
Mine are both 154CM. I had to break down some wood into kindling in a pinch. Might have hit a nail or experienced some lateral force.
I had really bad luck with my 154CM Manix. The blade wouldn't hold an edge, and seemed very soft. It didn't chip, but it rolled all the time. How has your experience been aside from the chipped teeth?
The Sabre (Saber) ground 154CM Manix2 was the very first Manix I ever owned, I still own it in fact -- I loved the feel & mechanics of the knife, the CBBL in particular... I didn't really know anything about steels at the time, but I definitely knew I had to sharpen it way more than I expected I would... now I understand why I had what sounds like a very similar experience to yours... 154CM doesn't have much to offer in terms of edge retention or or toughness, and all of the sharpening sills in the world won't make up for that. Just my 2c. :)
Sal, should you happen to read this: Maybe you´d like to give a perspective if there are any plans to bring out a Manix in full SE?
I´d really appreciate that.
Especially the CTS BD1N of the Manix LW should be a great steel for serrations as far as I can tell.
Really, I realized what´s holding me back from getting a Manix (or any Spyderco "just" available in PE or CE): Since I discovered SE in ffg (in the Endela SE) I´d want at least 80 % of my Spyderco folders to be full SE. But at the moment it is just around 20 %, of my collection, so I´d like to get any NEW Spydie in full SE if it is somehow possible...
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
Love me some SE blades and I’ve wondered more than once why there wasn’t a SE manix available? I’d love the manix even more!
I don't remember a full SE model but there were definitely combo edges back when they were hollow grinds.
There is at least one vid on youtube of a (regular production) hollow ground G10 Manix in full SE.
And here is a pic I found:
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
Love me some SE blades and I’ve wondered more than once why there wasn’t a SE manix available? I’d love the manix even more!
I don't remember a full SE model but there were definitely combo edges back when they were hollow grinds.
There is at least one vid on youtube of a (regular production) hollow ground G10 Manix in full SE.
And here is a pic I found:
At the time it was two things I had no interest in... SE and hollow grinds. I still don't care for hollow grinds but I do wish I had bought some old SE options.
At the time it was two things I had no interest in... SE and hollow grinds. I still don't care for hollow grinds but I do wish I had bought some old SE options.
Old SE, new SE... regardless, MORE SE would be cool! :D
Would really like to know if Spyderco has any plans for that (more ffg SE): Manix and Endura would be my first choices..
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
Absolutely no interest in a fully serrated Manix 2.
That's fine of course, but may I ask:
Ever tried Spydercos SE in ffg? In my experience it works better in many tasks than PE and at least not worse in almost all...
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
This is the most interesting thread. I know there are SE proponents here but they seem to be in the minority. I am getting more interested in SE but of course reluctant to spend money on a feature that I might not like. Other than special circumstances such as use with lines, seatbelts and so forth it is difficult for me to imagine how SE ground blades would be as precise as a sharp plain edge blade in the same or similar steel.
These days which I spent mostly around the house and a bit in the neighborhood, I carry a small slip joint and one of my para three knives. I can’t really see carrying a SE blade also just in case I might need one. That need has never arisen so far.
I also suspect that the market for SE knives is relatively small since Spyderco tends to make more plain edge blades overall.
Overheard at the end of the ice age, “We’ve been having such unnatural weather.”
