>30 degree factory bevels

[Doc Dan]

Forgive me for asking, but will all steels perform well at much less than 30* inclusive?

[Evil D]

Forgive me for asking, but will all steels perform well at much less than 30* inclusive?

I think so. There are people who run their bevels significantly thinner and have no problems (check out any of Cliff Stamp's videos). The problem Spyderco may have are the people who expect to do unrealistic things with their knife and then damage the edge, but I think those people will also damage 30 inclusive edges too. The edge will also get stronger with every sharpening.

All in all I have zero expectations that this change will happen. I'm sure Sal and the gang have done their homework on what the "safest" edge angle is. It's just a bummer for some new users and I was trying to think of ways to ease the learning curve.

[TkoK83Spy]

I guess I lied, I know for sure 3 of my 20 Spyderco's work perfectly at the 40 degree settings. But for many of the others I used to go through all the paces. I would sharpie the bevel, use the loupe, etc. 30 degree seems to hit the edge or even shoulder area of the bevel on most of my knives. Sometimes 40 is close, but would take some time to actually get that apex. Or as others have said, sometimes 40 works fine on one side, but doesn't quite hit right on the other. I'm at the point now that I can determine if I'm hitting the apex or not based strictly on sound and feel.

I just hold the rod in hand and adjust the angle of the knife until I get that perfect sound/resistance. Touch ups have been extremely fast and easy since I've began doing this. I'll occasionally take the loupe to the finished edge to make sure it's not just a burr that feels sharp. My KP strop has been a great final touch as well.

[Jazz]

I sharpen all my knives to around 15 per side, unless they come that way. Then I leave them until touchup time. 20 per side is crappy for whittling wood. You have to push too hard. I wish they all came at 30 degrees (15 per side). I don't care about microbevels. I guess I make them when I lightly get rid of the wire, but don't plan for them.

[bearfacedkiller]

I have zero use for an edge over 30 degrees. Even my large knives/choppers and my axes are not over 30 degrees. I have one hatchet that I use to chop roots that is very obtuse and a maul that is certainly well over 30. Knives have no business being that thick in my uses.

I would like to see 30 max. If they all came a hair under 30 I would be a happy camper.

Honestly, obtuse bevels and weak detents have almost stopped all purchases from Taichung for me.

[Doc Dan]

I use 15 per side using my Sharpmaker, but on some steels I’ve gone much lower. Some steels will begin to chip out or roll once the edge gets thinner.

[prndltech]

For the record this is really not a complaint thread. The angle thing is an honest question...at least on models sharpened by a robot, why is there a variance? Is it not capable of exact angles? I literally don't know so I'm curious.

The second part is more a suggestion. I started the thread because it seems like I've read about people having this problem a few times lately, and while it's less of a big deal with something like VG10 I can't imagine what a new user would do of they run into this with Maxamet.

I don't think dropping the goal angle from 30 to 25 inclusive is a big enough drop in edge thickness to spark a big edge damage ordeal but it may be enough to remedy the Sharpmaker angle woes.

I do agree with you. That is a really good question. It seems like if a robot does the job it should be a little more precise. If a new user purchased s90v, m390, s110v, Maxamet or any “super steels” then they would indeed be almost set up for failure with only being able to use the 40° setting for touch ups (micro bevel). I sort of forgot to include that in my post, maybe one should not be able to hit submit after a few adult beverages.

[sok]

I am trying to keep my knife footprint small. Here is my minimalist’s box of knives and knife repair tools. When I do have to reprofile, I take it to 30 degrees, or whatever the setup below gets me using the 30 degree slots. I don’t get too wound up about things not being exactly 30 degrees. Anywhere between 28ish to 32ish inclusive and I am good.



Edited to add*** Most of those knives pictured have never seen more than just brown stones at 40 degrees. All hair popping sharp with maybe the exception of the serrated edges.

I have reprofiled dozens of edges but ninety percent of them were knives over a thirty plus years period when steels weren’t so hard. I actually enjoyed sitting out on the porch, while a storm approaches, sharpening my different knives. They all got profiled every time they were sharpened. I just don’t find that same enjoyment reprofiling these new hard steels. But I do enjoy maintaining them on the Sharpmaker and I love sharp knives.

I do understand the need for a more acute edge for things like woodworking. But for my needs, I have fallen right into Spyderco’s wheelhouse. And it is so easy. Well... except for the reprofiling thing.

Getting back to beginners being frustrated with the Sharpmaker because they can’t take a dull or obtuse edge and miraculously make it sharp. I think it is due to improper instruction and it took me a while to get around it.

[sal]

Edge angle is a tough subject that we've been dealing with for many years. Our goal is always to hit that 30 degrees inclusive on everything but with so many makers and so many steels it's always challenging.

I'm watching the discussion.

sal

[DOUBLE D]

I agree that to drop it down to a factory 25 degrees inclusive might be the best option.

Although, in the sharpmaker instructions, Spyderco rightly states to start with the 40 degree setting, and use the 30 degree for the back bevel only. So expecting to hit the apex on 30 degrees isn't always a fair expectation given those instructions. I read instructions though, unlike a lot of people lol!

I would personally prefer the 25 degree factory inclusive, for the same reason as a newbie. To be able to use the 30 degree with ease and assurances of good results quickly.

[prndltech]

As always,I feel behind the edge thickness matter more than the sharpening angle. I have some knives that are thinner behind the edge than a military, pm2 or delica but are sharpened with a 20 dps edge angle, no micro bevel, and they cut as good or better than a .020 BTE mili, pm2, or delica sharpened to 30 dps. So in all fairness I can’t say that it really matter to me and as someone else stated, it just takes time to learn how to sharpen knives and how to use the sharpmaker. While it would be nice, I feel like Spyderco does a pretty good job overall for a production knife.