.TomAiello wrote: ↑Tue Aug 25, 2020 8:25 amYes. You can buy it in single scale size, or in (roughly 8.5 x 11) sheets. (example of source for single scale size: https://usaknifemaker.com/terotuf-od-gr ... erial.html)
I'mr really digging the blue demin TeroTuf I have. I might try to pair it with a light colored wood.
I really like the split material style scales, so I am trying to figure out what material to pair with TeroTuf. I'm thinking maybe a natural wood, but I'm not sure yet.
This is my first attempt ever to post photos, but here are some shots of my first attempts at scales. They're still pretty rough, but I'm in the steep part of the learning curve, so they're getting better with each iteration. No TeroTuf here yet, though. I've been working on cheap blanks in an effort to improve before working on my Mules.
Nice! Looking forward to the finished product!legOFwhat? wrote: ↑Wed Sep 02, 2020 9:06 amFinally got to order some TeroTuf and hopefully if I can get a couple of the SPY27 mules, then maybe do a set of terotuf/blue shred carbon fiber combo if I can make a design I like. It's quite fuzzy
Grabbed some jade G-10 and Burlap OD Micarta for another project...
I was thinking of TeroTuf with stabilized wood. I don't have any CF to use...maybe I need to order some. Could go all out and get GITD CF Shred...
I've only worked with CF twice and didn't care for the experiences. It's nasty and toxic and nastyTomAiello wrote: ↑Wed Sep 02, 2020 3:50 pmI was thinking of TeroTuf with stabilized wood. I don't have any CF to use...maybe I need to order some. Could go all out and get GITD CF Shred...
I've got my first two removable mule scales in process now--Wenge/stabilized spalted Maple and Brown Canvas Micarta/Python Micarta. Hopefully they'll go well and I'll get to refine my mule process. I bought 4 of the PD#1 Mule before they went out of stock, so I'm hoping to get my technique down for the Spy27.
I drill out them separately as well, I'll drill out the holes with a 3/16" drill bit then I use the Rivet tool (1/4" head (0.1875) 3/16") to countersink these https://knifemaking.com/products/cp861- ... 0256298120 along with the depth gauge on my drill press. I clamp the scale material to one side of the knife blank and use the holes in the mule to align the drill bit, then go back and countersink for the screw heads without the mule, just the handle material. To me that's been the most consistent way I've found and there is less chance to damage the Rivet bit on the hard steel of the mule. You can get a half dozen 3/16" drill bits for what you pay for 1 of the Rivet drill countersinks.
From what I understand neither is good for you. I use a respirator as both "dust up" something awful, I also run my shopvac w/ the catch bag (so it don't clog up the more expensive filter) right beside what I'm working on so it catches most of the dust coming off the sander. Maybe one day I'll get or make a downdraft table..TomAiello wrote: ↑Thu Sep 03, 2020 8:04 amHow much worse than G10 is the CF? I live in the middle of town and I'm at the point of moving my shop stuff to a vacant building in another part of town, because I worry about disturbing my neighbors with the smells when I sand G10 and epoxy in the back yard. I'm also not sure I want to be throwing the plastic dust around where my children and pets play. At least N95 masks are available again now.
I'm also having a bit of new learning curve using the (low end) tools I've bought for my house. I started in my Dad's shop and he's been doing high end custom woodwork for 50 years. I grew up with his tools, so I've never really appreciated how good they are. His vintage 1940s drill press is about a thousand times better than the low end model I bought from Lowes last week. And after having caught thousands of pieces of wood coming off his table saw as a teenager (that was a regular chore at our house) I'm only now starting to appreciate it. At least he gave me a nice sander to do the rough contour sanding--he literally just pulled it out of a cabinet and said 'here, take this one, I haven't used it since the 70s."
I roughed out some TeroTuf/Wood designs last night, and if I still like them tonight I'll start gluing them.
What are you using for liners? I've tried both G-10 and the cheaper fiber/paper stuff, and I find the cheaper stuff easier to work with. Is there a reason to use the G-10? Is it more durable in the long run?
Normally I'm a G-10 man most of the time. But I do like that one on the right with the nuclear teal color. I would even like to have a serrated C-60 Ayoob with that type of scales on it.
None from mine. I carry it a few times a week, take it out of my pocket a good 20+ times each day it's carried, no issues yet!
Funny you ask since I happen to have mine in my pocket today! Looking at it, I've got a tiny bit of side to side play. Looks like I just need to tighten my pivot a smidge and maybe add a dab of loctite.