JRinFL wrote: ↑
Mon Aug 10, 2020 10:48 am
Ankerson wrote: ↑
Sun Aug 09, 2020 4:27 pm
Baron Mind wrote: ↑
Sun Aug 09, 2020 3:57 pm
If you're looking for a steels ability to resist edge deformation of any kind, not just chipping, edge stability and edge strength are more important than toughness.
Edge stability and edge strength are controlled by grain structure, carbide volume, carbide size, and hardness.
Unfortunately, stainless steels do not excel in those areas. Chromium carbides are relatively large, and chromium tends to limit a steels maximum attainable working hardness.
That being said, with targeted heat treat protocols, something AEB-L, SG2, or even the likes of s35vn, m390, or cpm154 could all do well.
Actually, not really and this is something I have been saying now for a very long time.
Edge stability is not what people seem to think it is and nor are the reasons for it or what has the real effect on it. Edge geometry and hardness have the most effect on this far beyond what type of steel it is.
All steels will fail one of two ways, they will chip or they will roll once the point of failure is reached.
Chromium carbides actually don't have that much effect on the overall working hardness, a lot of stainless steels have a high working hardness equal to or surpassing some carbon steels. With the PM steels the carbides are kept in check along with different HT protocols that can help refine the grain structure.
In short it really doesn't matter what the steel is as long as the overall design, HT and geometry suit the tasks at hand.
There really isn't that much of a difference in the steels overall when it comes to the edge holding up. The edge is so thin at the apex, the part that really matters here
it doesn't matter what the steel is. How it's prepared has much more effect on that overall like I said.
Now if you want to talk about blade strength/toughness for something like choppers, swords etc. that's a whole different topic.
There is a ton of misinformation out there, mostly marketing and urban legends are complete BS.
As long as the knife is sharpened correctly... That's a HUGE ONE
... And the edge geometry is set correctly for the task it's fine.
I'm likely missing something, but it would seem then that the selling of "Super Steel de-jour" is like selling snake oil. The most important part of the blade is in how it is made, not from what it is made of.
It's this whole edge stability idea has been taken so far out of context and overblown over the years it's to the point that it's nothing more than a joke now. Most of it has been marketing and other assorted "opinions" about it that never have been true from the start.
MOSTLY talking about folders here..... It just doesn't matter... Sharpen the knife correctly
for the use that's intended and go with it.
For fixed blades, choppers etc.... Yes, it does matter much more depending. Most of as in almost all fixed blades that are made for harder use are very thick behind the edge. I have personally seen .045" and thicker.....
"WOW this X knife in Y steel is just awesome, I can do yadda, yadda, yadda"
Well yeah, it's .045" behind the edge...
NOW, there are fixed blades that are MUCH thinner and still designed for field use
, something like .020" to .025" or so.....
Yeah, that's equal to your folder measurements behind the edge for the most part.
And I am not talking about CPM 3V either..... MOST of those are in the .035" or thicker range.....
But then with the fixed blades they see a lot more heavy use so there is also heavier blade stock too normally.
BOTTOM line here is there isn't a one size fits all cookie cutter answer to it.
I would hope people wouldn't take their tomato slicer that's .005" behind the edge and go out and chop down a oak tree with it... Likely wouldn't go very well....
Basic common since plays a big part with knife use, something that tends to be ignored more so than not...
If someone needs to use a knife as a screwdriver grab a butter knife out of the kitchen drawer and leave the folder in their pocket.