I looked at the ones with replaceable blades, but have decided to give it a go sharpening it myself, even though I might look like Bloke for a while
I had it in mind to go with non stainless, but was curious about specific alloys. It kinda bugs me not knowing exactly what it is.
This is how I got started:
Somehow I read right past this tidbit. Would this be for the purpose of toughening up a high carbide steel?Mike Blue wrote: ↑Fri Jan 24, 2020 6:41 pmThat's a great question jpm2. Honing a razor will always be a balance of hard vs less hard, abrasion resistance and the rest of the variables. It will have to be a compromise no matter what. I'm looking forward to the Bainite blade, but this won't stop the discussion of other equally viable steels. Spyderco is one of the few companies with the kind of education and experience to shorten that learning curve.
My Hart Steel razor is O-1. My Red Imp is made of ???? steel. I honestly prefer the ???? blade. The steel does not need to be super steel to give you a super shave.KingRat wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 8:46 pmI'm in for one.
I sometimes shave with a straight, depending on my mood. (Shaving with a straight is not for the tired, or the inebriated for that matter. The more you know...) I have one of those newer Hart Steel razors, and an older Case Red Imp. Both are wedges, which is my preference.
The Hart Steel uses hex screw hardware, so you can take it apart for maintenance. The Case has older, more traditional pin construction. I'd be fine with either. I imagine you could use one of the many torx fasteners you have in supply. I'd probably never take it apart if I was reasonably confident there was no rust around the pivot. I have to take the Hart Steel apart regularly to remove/prevent rust, whereas this is never a problem with the Case, provided I do a good job drying it between uses, and occasionally oil the pivot/blade.
I have it down to where I pretty much just use an ultra fine bench stone (the Spyderco Black Box) and an inexpensive strop for sharpening.
I will try that. Thanks!Mike Blue wrote: ↑Fri Feb 14, 2020 11:38 amStraight razor traditionalists seem to prefer a pinned assembly. I'm on the fence for the reasons you have mentioned.
The majority of old, turn of the century razors that were available had very common shared steels. Mostly Sheffield crucible steel. In this day and age, the razor users want to try the modern super steels, but there are not many custom razor makers out there willing to.
O-1 is old school and highly under rated compared to the modern alloys. It does produce the desired structure in the heat treatment and that's what I was after. I might suggest, the next time your Hart is due for a bit of hone touch up, use a piece of electrical tape over the spine and see if a minor degree of angle change helps. Otherwise, as i learned the hard way, sometimes it's the razor-wet computer interface and shaving technique needs to change a bit.
I haven't noticed any good reason to take a razor apart -- the handle is already open and shallow so if you needed to clean it, it's all right there without disassembling. Plus you don't carry these in your pocket, it's possibly the cleanest thing I own.
This is where I want to be... not there yet. After the UF, I'm doing a hard black Arkansas, then 1 micron diamond paste on hard backed linen before the naked leather hanging strop.