Serrated H-1 vs. Serrated LC200N?

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Evil D
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Re: Serrated H-1 vs. Serrated LC200N?

#21

Post by Evil D »

ladybug93 wrote:
Fri Jan 17, 2020 3:13 pm
i recently had a small chip in my native salt. not sure what i did, but nothing extreme at all. i was surprised to see it there. mine isn’t se, but it still chipped instead of rolled for what that’s worth.


My Caribbean showed both chips and rolling, but cutting the exact same material did the same thing to H1 too.
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Re: Serrated H-1 vs. Serrated LC200N?

#22

Post by ladybug93 »

Evil D wrote:
Fri Jan 17, 2020 4:33 pm
ladybug93 wrote:
Fri Jan 17, 2020 3:13 pm
i recently had a small chip in my native salt. not sure what i did, but nothing extreme at all. i was surprised to see it there. mine isn’t se, but it still chipped instead of rolled for what that’s worth.


My Caribbean showed both chips and rolling, but cutting the exact same material did the same thing to H1 too.
i'm definitely not complaining. i'm the one that wants a salt version of all my favorites. :)
keep your knife sharp and your focus sharper.
current collection:
C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
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CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
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Re: Serrated H-1 vs. Serrated LC200N?

#23

Post by zuludelta »

ladybug93 wrote:
Fri Jan 17, 2020 3:13 pm
i recently had a small chip in my native salt. not sure what i did, but nothing extreme at all. i was surprised to see it there. mine isn’t se, but it still chipped instead of rolled for what that’s worth.
I've seen this happen in my Native 5 Salt PE (LC200N), Dragonfly 2 SE (VG-10), and Alcyone (CTS-BD1).

After repairing the small chips, however, they never occurred again, even when cutting much harder material than the ones that originally caused the chipping. This leads me to think that there was probably "fatigued steel" on the factory edge from when the blade was being ground & sharpened (perhaps a bit too aggressively) at the factory & by repairing/reprofiling the edge, I had removed that fatigued steel.
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Evil D
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Re: Serrated H-1 vs. Serrated LC200N?

#24

Post by Evil D »

ladybug93 wrote:
Fri Jan 17, 2020 6:12 pm
Evil D wrote:
Fri Jan 17, 2020 4:33 pm
ladybug93 wrote:
Fri Jan 17, 2020 3:13 pm
i recently had a small chip in my native salt. not sure what i did, but nothing extreme at all. i was surprised to see it there. mine isn’t se, but it still chipped instead of rolled for what that’s worth.


My Caribbean showed both chips and rolling, but cutting the exact same material did the same thing to H1 too.
i'm definitely not complaining. i'm the one that wants a salt version of all my favorites. :)


Oh not trying to correct you or anything, just sharing info.
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Re: Serrated H-1 vs. Serrated LC200N?

#25

Post by JD Spydo »

Again it just goes without saying that most of the blade steels that Spyderco has used over the years that do well in Serrated or Spyderedge are steels that are more noted for their toughness properties as well as their corrosion resistant properties.

Why corrosion resistant steels seem to do well with serrated/Spyderedges is kind of a mystery of sorts but it does seem that way.

To this day I would never turn down a serrated/Spyderedged folder of fixed blade in many of the older steels like 440V, ATS-55, ATS-34, AUS-8, AUS-10, GIN-1 and VG-10. The harder steels that tend to make a great plain edged folder seem to not do well in SE>> with XHP and VG-10 being two exceptions.
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Re: Serrated H-1 vs. Serrated LC200N?

#26

Post by Evil D »

JD Spydo wrote:
Sat Jan 18, 2020 12:58 am


Why corrosion resistant steels seem to do well with serrated/Spyderedges is kind of a mystery of sorts but it does seem that way.


I think it has to do with those steels just also being more on the tough side than a steel like ZDP for example. As I've said before though, my priorities with SE are a little different than most, I want the toughness above all else because it's so much more difficult to fix edge damage and the risk of totally breaking off a tooth is a concern. I will gladly sacrifice edge retention for more toughness and peace of mind knowing I can use my SE knife hard without fear of breaking the teeth off and knowing I can fix any edge damage and easily bring back the edge on the Sharpmaker.

I've honestly been a little resistant to give some of my opinions of LC and H1 because I feel like they may give the wrong idea since what I want seems to be opposite of what most folks are asking about, so sometimes if I say LC is better than H1 I'm talking about different ways of being better than the next guy may think about. There are some budget end steels that I would love to try in SE but will probably never happen because people don't see them as high end steels and they don't have the hype needed to get the support to get them into production.
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fixall
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Re: Serrated H-1 vs. Serrated LC200N?

#27

Post by fixall »

At 2:12 of this video... Eric states that serrated H1 holds an edge longer than serrated LC200N.

https://youtu.be/0c_D_A4ho5Q

That's good enough for me.


*edit
I just realized that this thread is from January 2020... Not January 2021, lol! In any case, this mystery is put to rest at least.
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Re: Serrated H-1 vs. Serrated LC200N?

#28

Post by JD Spydo »

fixall wrote:
Wed Jan 20, 2021 3:21 pm
At 2:12 of this video... Eric states that serrated H1 holds an edge longer than serrated LC200N.

https://youtu.be/0c_D_A4ho5Q

That's good enough for me.


*edit
I just realized that this thread is from January 2020... Not January 2021, lol! In any case, this mystery is put to rest at least.
And I believe that too. Wouldn't argue it for a second. However with both of them being Nitrogen based blade steels with incredible anti-corrosion properties I'm wondering if it's even enough to make a big deal over?

Now I would always take an LC200N in PE over H-1>> that one isn't even close. But in SE I bet you're going to be sharpening them about equally as much.
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Re: Serrated H-1 vs. Serrated LC200N?

#29

Post by skeeg11 »

My question would be which cuts better? FFG LC200N vs low hollow/sabre ground H1?
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Re: Serrated H-1 vs. Serrated LC200N?

#30

Post by Cl1ff »

skeeg11 wrote:
Wed Jan 20, 2021 3:38 pm
My question would be which cuts better? FFG LC200N vs low hollow/sabre ground H1?
My answer would be that it depends on what you want to cut. My saber-ground SE Spyderco performs really well with rope, meat, woods, and shallow cuts into material deeper than the height of the blade.
A Hollow Grind would likely improve upon performance in those uses, but a Full Flat Grind will be better for very dense and/or material taller than the height of the blade that might require long slices (like cardboard).
The thinner the stock and edges, the better those Saber and Hollow grinds will work for those extra long slices and dense material like cheese or plastic, in my experiences (the non-flat grinds will be better at releasing food like cheese).
rex121 is the king of steel, but nature’s teeth have been cutting for hundreds of millions of years and counting :cool:
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Re: Serrated H-1 vs. Serrated LC200N?

#31

Post by ladybug93 »

after my experience with both, i trust my pac salt to be more robust. i'm kind of sad to say that because the construction of the caribbean is way stronger, but the h1 steel is bombproof, especially in the thicker spine and hollow grind. i like both and they'll both get the job done, but if it's hard work, i'm probably reaching for the pacific salt over the caribbean.
keep your knife sharp and your focus sharper.
current collection:
C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
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Re: Serrated H-1 vs. Serrated LC200N?

#32

Post by Bemo »

Just saw a YouTube video from BladeHQ interviewing Eric about the new LC200N Salts coming out. Eric said the H-1 SE was tougher than the LC200N (https://youtu.be/0c_D_A4ho5Q). So color me even more confused....
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Re: Serrated H-1 vs. Serrated LC200N?

#33

Post by StuntZombie »

I've found that LC200N in SE holds an edge a bit better than serrated H1. The plain edge portions at the tips seem to be equally soft in both steels, but the teeth on my Pac Salt 2 seem to handle cutting harder and more abrasive materials better than my H1 Wharncliffe Salt did.
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Re: Serrated H-1 vs. Serrated LC200N?

#34

Post by araneae »

I am still not certain what large advantage SE LC200N offers aside from the ability to be flat ground. If LC200N outcut SE H1 I think Spyderco would be talking about it; but as previously mentioned in the thread, it seems the video says otherwise. I guess for how I use my SE salt knives, FFG isn't a big enough advantage to trade off edge retention and corrosion resistance. PE LC200N offers better slicing vs H1, but apparently less edge holding than vg-10.

At the price premium, I'm not sure an LC200N Salt is in my future even in PE. But I will keep beating on my SE H1 knives and put them away dirty.
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Re: Serrated H-1 vs. Serrated LC200N?

#35

Post by Bill1170 »

For me the benefits of a FFG blade outweigh the (theoretical to me) advantages of SE H-1 over SE LC200N. So much depends on what is being cut. The other design elements of the Caribbean made it a moot point for me, since it only comes in LC200N.
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Re: Serrated H-1 vs. Serrated LC200N?

#36

Post by skeeg11 »

In order to compare apples to apples in a meaningful way, the grind would have to be the same. Would be interested to hear Vivi's and Surfingringo's thoughts on the matter.

Eric stated that H 1's serrated edge was superior to LC200N's serrated edge retention but he didn't say to what degree. One also has to wonder that after repeated sharpenings make the points less prominent does the "edge" shift to LC200N? (pun intended.) :)
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