Spyderco Forums

By profession, I am a Mariner - I work on boats.

Knives are **** important, not a trend.

I've sworn by shieth blades.... Hultafor for straight shieth and victorynox for serrated.

I decided that for general society I should start using a folding knife, as I feel naked without a knife on my person, and folding knifes are more accepted by society at large.


Anyway... I bought a SpiderCo H-1 straight blade, salt spray for something.....

I LOVE the design. Overall.... its a very lightweight knife. The handle is slim, and the blade is a good dimension to be an ideal tool for all sorts jobs....

I heard these H-1 blades would get harder with time with sharpening.....

...I travel with a diamond stone on my person.... I pretty much HAVE to sharpen this knife EACH time I use it.

This steel is WAY softer than even the cheapest carbon steel hultafor knife I own.

I've owned this knife for two years now..... I sharpen it all the time....but the blade hardly keeps.

Overall....it was an expensive knife for a low quality blade.


I work on Boats professionally...... I'd say, who gives a crap if the steel rusts a bit....as long as it cuts when your life/ship depends on it....


So I guess I'm still on the hunt for a good folding knife............

Should have done a little more searching on line in your h1 research. Ill keep it short and sweet.

Plain edge h1 is not that good.
Serrated h1 is pretty amazing.
If you are getting h1 get it serrated.
If you want a rustproof knife with a plain edge get lc200n steel.
Finally, while h1 does work harden, its generally agreed that regular sharpening will not "stress" the steel enough in order to recieve the benefits of work hardening.

If you sharpen your H1 PE knife with a very coarse stone using feather light strokes to work the burr off, that will give you a longer lasting edge.

If you're using a carbon steel on the ocean I would think the edge would degrade enough from corrosion that you'd be sharpening it just as much. LC200N is noticeably better but there may be other steels that aren't totally rust proof but are very high stain resistant that you'd like better, especially if a little spot rust is something you can live with.

H1 SE and LC200n PE are great choices.

S110v is super stain resistant too. I don't have any, but so I've read.

VooDooChild wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 05, 2019 9:21 am

Should have done a little more searching on line in your h1 research. Ill keep it short and sweet.

Plain edge h1 is not that good.
Serrated h1 is pretty amazing.
If you are getting h1 get it serrated.
If you want a rustproof knife with a plain edge get lc200n steel.
Finally, while h1 does work harden, its generally agreed that regular sharpening will not "stress" the steel enough in order to recieve the benefits of work hardening.

I totally and completely agree with everything that "VooDooChild" just said. He truly hit the nail directly on the head with everything he stated

Something I would like to ask the OP ( wankywank)??? Have you ever heard of a Mariner's knife Company known as "Myerchin"?? I'm in no way, shape or form trying to say that they are better than Spyderco's great Salt Series knives but I've heard that they have a lot of Specialty type knives for the fishing/marine industry.

But VooDooChild is spot on about LC200N being a great nitrogen based, rust/corrosion resistant steel ideal for work in harsh/wet conditions>> and that is the blade steel you want for plain edges by the way. H-1 steel is superb for serrated edges but I myself no longer own any H-1 blades in PE. And by the way Spyderco is truly the "KING OF SERRATED EDGED KNIVES" with no close second place competitor.

LC200N is far better than H1 in all categories that matter to me.

I have no use for H1(especially PE). SE is okay, but even then I would still choose LC200N if it was available.

wankywank wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 04, 2019 9:56 pm

.....

...I travel with a diamond stone on my person.... I pretty much HAVE to sharpen this knife EACH time I use it.

For what are you using the knife? What are the tasks? Is the bevel wide or have you thinned it out/reprofiled to more acute angle? Do you cut against hard surfaces?

I have a carbon steel hultafors that I used extensively on home improvement works. It's a good knife for the price, it takes abuse without a problem. I've also used PE H1 Dragonfly to cut plenty of wall plugs and other materials with a relatively good edge retention, but clearly not as good as other modern steels. If kept away from hard surfaces, on my experience, PE H1 holds a reasonable good edge, noticable better than cheap knives. Some
YouTube garage science tests:

https://youtu.be/htcB5U-USuw

https://youtu.be/vI3PTj20rgs

Not extraordinary edge retention, but not as bad as it's reported every now and then...

Sumdumguy wrote: LC200N is far better than H1 in all categories that matter to me.

I have no use for H1(especially PE). SE is okay, but even then I would still choose LC200N if it was available.

Might not matter to you but h1 is tougher. There are pics somewhere of h1 salts bent to 90 degrees. Also h1 is japanese steel only with the exception of the autonomy if anyone cared about that.

VooDooChild wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 05, 2019 3:28 pm

Sumdumguy wrote: LC200N is far better than H1 in all categories that matter to me.

I have no use for H1(especially PE). SE is okay, but even then I would still choose LC200N if it was available.

Might not matter to you but h1 is tougher. There are pics somewhere of h1 salts bent to 90 degrees. Also h1 is japanese steel only with the exception of the autonomy if anyone cared about that.

Yes, I know it is "tougher". However, LC200N is also ridiculously tough and it performs better in every other metric than H1.

Sumdumguy wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 05, 2019 3:39 pm

VooDooChild wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 05, 2019 3:28 pm

Sumdumguy wrote: LC200N is far better than H1 in all categories that matter to me.

I have no use for H1(especially PE). SE is okay, but even then I would still choose LC200N if it was available.

Might not matter to you but h1 is tougher. There are pics somewhere of h1 salts bent to 90 degrees. Also h1 is japanese steel only with the exception of the autonomy if anyone cared about that.

Yes, I know it is "tougher". However, LC200N is also ridiculously tough and it performs better in every other metric than H1.

Except being offered in a Delica handle :D

Welcome to the forum, wankywank!

No experience with H1 in PE, but in SE it is as great concerning edge retention as people on this forum always say.
My Pac Salt SE (in fact two, I have a backup) is 100% a keeper for ever (the backup might have to go, IF the Pac Salt 2 will feature the Endura 4 handle)

tonijedi wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 05, 2019 3:42 pm

Sumdumguy wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 05, 2019 3:39 pm

VooDooChild wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 05, 2019 3:28 pm

Sumdumguy wrote: LC200N is far better than H1 in all categories that matter to me.

I have no use for H1(especially PE). SE is okay, but even then I would still choose LC200N if it was available.

Might not matter to you but h1 is tougher. There are pics somewhere of h1 salts bent to 90 degrees. Also h1 is japanese steel only with the exception of the autonomy if anyone cared about that.

Yes, I know it is "tougher". However, LC200N is also ridiculously tough and it performs better in every other metric than H1.

Except being offered in a Delica handle :D

For now.

I can't imagine it will be too long till there is an LC200N variant of the Salt 2. The day they release an LC200N Salt 2, will be the day(week) I swap my GITD Delica scales over!

tonijedi wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 05, 2019 3:42 pm

Sumdumguy wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 05, 2019 3:39 pm

VooDooChild wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 05, 2019 3:28 pm

Sumdumguy wrote: LC200N is far better than H1 in all categories that matter to me.

I have no use for H1(especially PE). SE is okay, but even then I would still choose LC200N if it was available.

Might not matter to you but h1 is tougher. There are pics somewhere of h1 salts bent to 90 degrees. Also h1 is japanese steel only with the exception of the autonomy if anyone cared about that.

Yes, I know it is "tougher". However, LC200N is also ridiculously tough and it performs better in every other metric than H1.

Except being offered in a Delica handle :D

Some of us consider that a drawback

Hi Wankywank,

Welcome to our forum.

If edge retention is very important, I would suggest that you get a serrated H1 folder like the Pacific Salt. Edge retention on the serrated version is exceptional.

sal

I could well be wrong but I think ole mate is likely pranking us.

Google: “Wank meaning” and you’ll know what I’m trying say. :)

Ah, hahaha, ah, hahaha, ah, hahaha! :rolleyes:

SE Tasman 2

Sumdumguy.
We could probably argue thet serrated h1 will have a higher hrc at the edge than serrated lc200n, but I have never seen serrated lc200n hrc numbers so Im not certain on that. We could also say that due to work hardening serrated h1 has differential hardening when compared to lc200n. We could also say that most h1 models are generally cheaper than lc200n models. None of this really matters though. They both make their claim to faim on corrosion resistance so use whichever you like. We are really getting sidetracked here though.

As far as wankywank should be concerned you just heard from sal that serrated h1 is the way to go. So I would suggest that as well.

sal wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 05, 2019 3:49 pm

Hi Wankywank,

Welcome to our forum.

If edge retention is very important, I would suggest that you get a serrated H1 folder like the Pacific Salt. Edge retention on the serrated version is exceptional.

sal

+1

Bloke wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 05, 2019 3:54 pm

I could well be wrong but I think ole mate is likely pranking us.

Google: “Wank meaning” and you’ll know what I’m trying say. :)

Ah, hahaha, ah, hahaha, ah, hahaha! :rolleyes:

Heh, I didn't even look at the name... what a tosser! :p