I use in my shop for carbon knives I make
Since I wet grind knives, My blanks can get rusty when I grind a pile of them and they wait between steps. So, I give em a little coat between stages, does the job great.
I haven't felt the need to use on my Police 4 but it works if I need to.
I use marine grade Tuff-Glide, applied via their Tuff-Cloth application.
Thanks Tom :) I've been preaching the virtues and advantages of using Sentry Solutions products for almost 10 years now. Just about everything they sell is a great and useful product. I really like their BP-2000 dry lube for many applications as well.
Also I've talked a lot over the years about a FLITZ product that I've just had great results with. FLITZ who is a well known German maker of great metal polishes and other great metal maintenance products. The FLITZ metal wax is a great corrosion protector and has a wide range of viable uses.
But Tom's recommendation of the Marine Grade TUF CLOTH is a really good one. Also I've found products made by Militec to be excellent as well. Very interesting thread.
I'll tell you guys a trick I never thought about for knives. An old guy told this one to my dad way back in the day and he forwarded it on to me at some point long ago.
"If you don't want your tools to rust, stick them in the dirt"
That's it, just push the metal you want to protect into the ground and "VOILA!", no more orange tools.
I use it on my hammers, nailsets and stuff. If they get rusty they can discolor my finish work and that's no fun. I'm going to have to test it out and see if it affects the edge too much to be viable.
"If a law is unjust, a man is not only right to disobey it, he is obligated to do so."
I'll tell you guys a trick I never thought about for knives. An old guy told this one to my dad way back in the day and he forwarded it on to me at some point long ago.
"If you don't want your tools to rust, stick them in the dirt"
That's it, just push the metal you want to protect into the ground and "VOILA!", no more orange tools.
I use it on my hammers, nailsets and stuff. If they get rusty they can discolor my finish work and that's no fun. I'm going to have to test it out and see if it affects the edge too much to be viable.
Wait what??? :confused:
Please don't stick your knife into the ground, it will dull your edge in a second.
In the pocket: Chaparral FRN, Native Chief, Police 4 K390, Pacific Salt SE, Manix 2 G10 REX45
I'll tell you guys a trick I never thought about for knives. An old guy told this one to my dad way back in the day and he forwarded it on to me at some point long ago.
"If you don't want your tools to rust, stick them in the dirt"
That's it, just push the metal you want to protect into the ground and "VOILA!", no more orange tools.
I use it on my hammers, nailsets and stuff. If they get rusty they can discolor my finish work and that's no fun. I'm going to have to test it out and see if it affects the edge too much to be viable.
Wait what??? :confused:
Please don't stick your knife into the ground, it will dull your edge in a second.
Yea, hence the last sentence of my post. I will be using my Mantra 1 for this test. :p
I'll see how much it messes with the edge. If it is fixable with a few passes on the whites, it's viable(not that I'll use it).
Either way, it's still a piece of information that most people probably don't know. Enjoy the knowledge :D
"If a law is unjust, a man is not only right to disobey it, he is obligated to do so."
I do not force patinas and I keep mine rust free. When I get new knives in non stainless I clean them, apply tuff glide and let dry for a day. I wipe everything off then wax the blade with a paste wax. I use Renaissance wax in particular. This pretty much keeps the blade oxygen free so rust will not build up. The wax also micro polishes the blade when applying so it helps clean the blade and really makes it look good. If I scratch or scrape the blade I reapply as needed. If I get salts/blood/acids etc on my knife I wash it off with soap and water and reapply. I also use dry aerosol teflon lubes on the pivot and bearing surfaces. It takes a lot longer to write about it than do it and this care keeps much rustier steel than K390 looking rust free and shiny.
Joe
Hmm, I have always wondered about putting wax on a blade. Whilst I had my new Para 3 K390 apart, I decided to put some Liquid Glass on the blade. None went on the pivot area. I should have about Five coats on before the end of the day.
Sok, I'm curious how the Liquid Glass is working out for you. Do you have any updates to share? Thanks in advance.
No problems whatsoever. I use the Para 3 most every day lately. I was stripping some 6 gauge wire yesterday and some other menial tasks and got some stuff on it that required me to give it a good scrubbing so I could give it a good look. I don’t see a lick of corrosion on it.
I meant to give it equal time with my K390 PM2, that isn’t treated with the Liquid Glass, to see if there would be a difference but I have mostly been carrying the Para 3. I just compared the two and they look the same as far as corrosion or discoloring.
I also treated my Para 3 DLC M4 blade out of curiosity but haven’t carried it much. I like it though, as it keeps the DLC darker and a little glossier.
On the treated blades, I see no signs of flaking or scratches. So far so good.
I'll tell you guys a trick I never thought about for knives. An old guy told this one to my dad way back in the day and he forwarded it on to me at some point long ago.
"If you don't want your tools to rust, stick them in the dirt"
That's it, just push the metal you want to protect into the ground and "VOILA!", no more orange tools.
I use it on my hammers, nailsets and stuff. If they get rusty they can discolor my finish work and that's no fun. I'm going to have to test it out and see if it affects the edge too much to be viable.
I can't see how this makes any sense chemically. Maybe he was assuming a place where dirt doesn't hold water (sand) and where it's hot and dry most of the time. I've never seen one piece of metal come out of dirt that wasn't covered in rust. Ever seen buried iron pipes?
I prefer to let my K390 patina. If I see a spot of rust I remove it. My A11 has been more challenging and now gets some Vaseline on it. I suspect it matters less what you use and more that you use something that keeps moisture off the surface.
I'll tell you guys a trick I never thought about for knives. An old guy told this one to my dad way back in the day and he forwarded it on to me at some point long ago.
"If you don't want your tools to rust, stick them in the dirt"
That's it, just push the metal you want to protect into the ground and "VOILA!", no more orange tools.
I use it on my hammers, nailsets and stuff. If they get rusty they can discolor my finish work and that's no fun. I'm going to have to test it out and see if it affects the edge too much to be viable.
I dug a cat hole with my mora garberg when I forgot my poop shovel camping in the Hoh Rainforest. I can confirm it definitely effects the edge.
I'll tell you guys a trick I never thought about for knives. An old guy told this one to my dad way back in the day and he forwarded it on to me at some point long ago.
"If you don't want your tools to rust, stick them in the dirt"
That's it, just push the metal you want to protect into the ground and "VOILA!", no more orange tools.
I use it on my hammers, nailsets and stuff. If they get rusty they can discolor my finish work and that's no fun. I'm going to have to test it out and see if it affects the edge too much to be viable.
I can't see how this makes any sense chemically. Maybe he was assuming a place where dirt doesn't hold water (sand) and where it's hot and dry most of the time. I've never seen one piece of metal come out of dirt that wasn't covered in rust. Ever seen buried iron pipes?
I prefer to let my K390 patina. If I see a spot of rust I remove it. My A11 has been more challenging and now gets some Vaseline on it. I suspect it matters less what you use and more that you use something that keeps moisture off the surface.
This isn't about burying it. It's literally, smack hammer head/claw into dirt and pull out. I do it to all of my hammers, chisels and punches. I can't explain it, I just know that it does infact prevent rust from forming on my tools.(Northern GA soil)
And no, it doesn't play nice with the edge. Although it wasn't hard to return the m4 to it's former sharpness, It's not a vaible method for blades.
Bad for knives, great for hammers and stuff!
"If a law is unjust, a man is not only right to disobey it, he is obligated to do so."
When I first went camping several decades ago we would scour our pots and pans with dirt to "clean" them with the abrasive in the soil.
The last time I plunged any of my blades into the soil was at the Custer Battlefield in Montana where I was baptizing a couple of blades received from my late friend Rob Simonich, back in 2000 after we had stayed with him during Independence Day weekend.
That sandy soil took the edge right off those knives lickety split.
Seems pretty unlikely that dirt is offering any lasting protection. More likely a coincidence. Have you bought identical items put one in the dirt and compared it against a non dirt treated item? That I'd be interested in.
So many knives, so few pockets... :)
-Nick
Last in: N5 Magnacut The "Spirit" of the design does not come through unless used. -Sal
I'll tell you guys a trick I never thought about for knives. An old guy told this one to my dad way back in the day and he forwarded it on to me at some point long ago.
"If you don't want your tools to rust, stick them in the dirt"
That's it, just push the metal you want to protect into the ground and "VOILA!", no more orange tools.
I use it on my hammers, nailsets and stuff. If they get rusty they can discolor my finish work and that's no fun. I'm going to have to test it out and see if it affects the edge too much to be viable.
I can't see how this makes any sense chemically. Maybe he was assuming a place where dirt doesn't hold water (sand) and where it's hot and dry most of the time. I've never seen one piece of metal come out of dirt that wasn't covered in rust. Ever seen buried iron pipes?
I prefer to let my K390 patina. If I see a spot of rust I remove it. My A11 has been more challenging and now gets some Vaseline on it. I suspect it matters less what you use and more that you use something that keeps moisture off the surface.
This isn't about burying it. It's literally, smack hammer head/claw into dirt and pull out. I do it to all of my hammers, chisels and punches. I can't explain it, I just know that it does infact prevent rust from forming on my tools.(Northern GA soil)
And no, it doesn't play nice with the edge. Although it wasn't hard to return the m4 to it's former sharpness, It's not a vaible method for blades.
Well, two years later and my Golden K390 blades are still in great shape. I was doing a scale swap today so took a look at the pivot area. No pitting, no corrosion, and no special treatment.
My Seki K390 is developing patina. I have both the Stretch and the Dragonfly, and they both have some light spotting. Maybe it’s in the heat treat, maybe it’s in the ocean voyage - either way, not a big deal.
None of my Rex 45 has developed patina. All of my cruwear has a light shadow, kind of reminds me of ZDP.
I'm happiest with Micarta and Tool Steel.
Top four in rotation: K390 + GCM PM2, ZCarta Shaman, Crucarta PM2, K390 + GCM Straight Spine Stretch.
I use in my shop for carbon knives I make
Since I wet grind knives, My blanks can get rusty when I grind a pile of them and they wait between steps. So, I give em a little coat between stages, does the job great.
I haven't felt the need to use on my Police 4 but it works if I need to.
Good to know. I’ve been using it for the last few months on tool steels.
Long hiatus from the knife game, but I'm back in with a K390 PM2 from BBS (and now a Para3 on the way). It's a fantastic knife, and I couldn't be happier.
I've carried knives in VG-10, ZDP-189, and S30V (ok and cheap stuff), never a tool steel. I know that K390 is a powdered tool steel, and that it's more likely to corrode than anything I've carried before. I also know that some people go out of their way to "force" a patina on their M4 knives. I should mention that I'm a user - I don't own a safe, and hold no safe queens.
My question is: How many of you are actually oiling your K390 blades, or doing something else to inhibit corrosion? I've been carrying & using mine every day for the better part of a month now and there's no sign of any corrosion yet.
I usually oil the pivot and liners with 3-in-1 or some sort of bike chain lubricant (whatever is close at hand really). I'll usually apply either vasaline or carmex lip balm to the blade for something inexpensive and food safe. The carmex is tackier than the vasaline and sticks a little better. I recently noticed some red rust near the pivot of a k390 delica -- first time I had any corrosion on k390. I bring this knife everywhere (even fishing) and haven't oiled it in months so that was my bad. Even then, it may have been the liner that was developing rust. Not really sure. Other than that, I haven't even formed a patina on the k390 blade.
