Bill1170 wrote: ↑Sat Oct 10, 2020 9:38 amIt feels to me like the Spyderedge is waking from a long slumber in obscurity, starting with a small group of performance enthusiasts here on this forum, and spreading outward from there.
It may have taken this long to grow a “quorum” of users who are sufficiently knowledgeable about knife technologies to support the conversation occurring here on this and other threads. Sal may have felt like a voice crying in the wilderness with regard to serrations for many of the 38 years since the first Spyderedge model was sold.
For many years the conversation about serrations was framed one-dimensionally as “PE vs SE.” Exploring the differences between subtle aspects of SE geometry is a more recent phenomenon only made possible by greater education as provided here on this forum (and to a lesser extent on other online forums).
We owe much to Evil D for supplying those “special glasses” Sal mentions. His unflagging enthusiasm for, and commitment to using serrated folders has propelled the conversation to places it really needed to go.
40mm wrote: ↑Sat Oct 10, 2020 9:56 amThis thread has inspired me to go back to maybe my all time favorite knife. I carried a serrated D'fly Salt as my only pocket knife for quite a while and was very happy with it so think it's time to go back. Does anyone know where I can find one with the "old" uncoated hardware? I prefer the look over the newer black coated stuff. I picked up a Pac Salt SE in yellow and it's a stout beast, but the D'fly always did everything I needed in a much smaller package.
40mm wrote: ↑Mon Oct 12, 2020 12:04 pmCan anyone tell me the difference performance wise between a D'fly in serrated VG10 vs H1? Started thinking that I typically dye my H1 salts black and I've never had a rust issue even with a Aus8 blade when worn in waistband running, mountain biking, soaked in sweat, so I'm not sure why my mind has always gone to H1 over serrated VG10.
Wartstein wrote: ↑Mon Oct 12, 2020 12:11 pm40mm wrote: ↑Mon Oct 12, 2020 12:04 pmCan anyone tell me the difference performance wise between a D'fly in serrated VG10 vs H1? Started thinking that I typically dye my H1 salts black and I've never had a rust issue even with a Aus8 blade when worn in waistband running, mountain biking, soaked in sweat, so I'm not sure why my mind has always gone to H1 over serrated VG10.
I can´t speak to the difference concerning particularly the DFly (don´t have either the VG10 SE or the H1 SE), but in general:
- The H1 is in sabre hollow grind, the VG10 in ffg. That of course would make a difference anyway (regardless if in SE or PE). But just judging from my Endela SE (ffg) and Pac Salt SE (sabre hollow), the ffg model has less aggressive and shallower serrations (which is a good thing in my book).
Just looking at pics of the DFly, I think it will be the same there (ffg SE less aggressive and shallower than sabre hollow SE).
I’m no expert at serrations, but the 40° setting would certainly apex the points quicker, but it’ll leave a more obtuse edge.
Holland wrote: ↑Tue Oct 13, 2020 2:02 pmI've never reprofiled serrations... if I wanted to make the serrations less deep / more shallow, would I just use the sharpmaker at 30 degrees and go? Or would 40 degrees cut the tips off faster?
I want my dfly salt to be similar to my dfly salt hawkbill
dj moonbat wrote: ↑Tue Oct 13, 2020 12:29 pmI just did a minor tooth sculpting on my new Rockjumper, and yeah, the difference in snags was immediate and significant.
I think this is the first Spyderco I’ve ever bought that I actually improved with my first sharpening. Not that I made it sharper; but it’s similarly sharp and cuts more easily.
Thanks for the tips, D.
Can the RJ push cut that? My Pacific 2 can push cut those onceI start the cut with a tiny slicingmovement.Evil D wrote: ↑Fri Oct 16, 2020 2:01 pmI got a package today in a bubble envelope. I pulled out my Rock Jumper expecting to slice it open but...not so much. This is the difference between sharp teeth and rounder teeth:
Let me tell ya, that RJ is screaming sharp. It will pluck hair off my arm without touching skin and push cut phone book paper no problem, so this isn't a sharpness issue, at least not sharpness of the actual edges. I have touched up the edge on my RJ but only a micro bevel at 40 inclusive. I plan on reprofiling it soon and we'll see how it does.
What really sucks is thinking about this sort of experience being a person's first time using SE. I can see how it would be a major turnoff. I hate telling people you have to reprofile them to make them perform better because not everyone is willing to put in that kind of work when their PE knife cuts it just fine without snagging.
I'll have to cut some more stuff with this RJ before I reprofile it and see how it handles other materials.