On some knives they play a pretty big role in the construction of the knife. I removed one on an Ouroboros and Paul informed me that the back spacer could rotate out of the knife as a result (which I failed to noice). On the Manix 2 for example the lanyard tube is pretty much the only thing holding the butt of the knife together since there aren't any screws back there. I've taken a few of those apart and when you take the scales off, if the hole gets loose around the lanyard tube the scale can lift up off of the liner. Other knives like the Sliverax and Caribbean (Taichung, as you point out) have screws near the lanyard tube so the tube isn't playing much part in the construction, and I've even taken them out on a few knives.
First off I personally never had a reason to remove a "lanyard tube" >> I use lanyards on certain outdoor activities>> I also use one anytime I'm boating, fishing or even near a body of water. I lost one Spyder on a river once and I'm not going to let that happen again.
If these lanyard tubes are part of the integral construction of the knife and it appears EVIL is right about that>> then what advantage is there in removing it? And please I'm not trying to be a "wise guy" but what would the advantage be in doing that :confused: ?
Also I wish Spyderco would look into using different materials for their lanyard hole assemblies. I'm thinking that Titanium would be a good choice for that? Because those lanyard holes when used take a lot more friction that we realize.
On some knives they play a pretty big role in the construction of the knife. I removed one on an Ouroboros and Paul informed me that the back spacer could rotate out of the knife as a result (which I failed to noice). On the Manix 2 for example the lanyard tube is pretty much the only thing holding the butt of the knife together since there aren't any screws back there. I've taken a few of those apart and when you take the scales off, if the hole gets loose around the lanyard tube the scale can lift up off of the liner. Other knives like the Sliverax and Caribbean (Taichung, as you point out) have screws near the lanyard tube so the tube isn't playing much part in the construction, and I've even taken them out on a few knives.
First off I personally never had a reason to remove a "lanyard tube" >> I use lanyards on certain outdoor activities>> I also use one anytime I'm boating, fishing or even near a body of water. I lost one Spyder on a river once and I'm not going to let that happen again.
If these lanyard tubes are part of the integral construction of the knife and it appears EVIL is right about that>> then what advantage is there in removing it? And please I'm not trying to be a "wise guy" but what would the advantage be in doing that :confused: ?
Also I wish Spyderco would look into using different materials for their lanyard hole assemblies. I'm thinking that Titanium would be a good choice for that? Because those lanyard holes when used take a lot more friction that we realize.
If it's part of the construction, it needs to stay. On a lot of knives they're basically just for looks, and I think it's a nice touch and does make the knife look nicer/fancier. It's interesting because I just noticed last night that my new Shaman doesn't have a lanyard tube at all and I was wondering if it was intentional or maybe someone missed a step during assembly.
I personally like the lanyard tube construction on my PM2, Para and Military CQI.
They are an integral part of the design,,,, the tube is flared into the scales and holds them firmly onto the lanyard tube.
Replacing the factory tube with aftermarket is fine but does weaken the overall original design.
I did purchase the newly released lanyard removal tube from Sharp Dressed Knives,,, very simple and inexpensive little tool.
On some knives they play a pretty big role in the construction of the knife. I removed one on an Ouroboros and Paul informed me that the back spacer could rotate out of the knife as a result (which I failed to noice). On the Manix 2 for example the lanyard tube is pretty much the only thing holding the butt of the knife together since there aren't any screws back there. I've taken a few of those apart and when you take the scales off, if the hole gets loose around the lanyard tube the scale can lift up off of the liner. Other knives like the Sliverax and Caribbean (Taichung, as you point out) have screws near the lanyard tube so the tube isn't playing much part in the construction, and I've even taken them out on a few knives.
First off I personally never had a reason to remove a "lanyard tube" >> I use lanyards on certain outdoor activities>> I also use one anytime I'm boating, fishing or even near a body of water. I lost one Spyder on a river once and I'm not going to let that happen again.
If these lanyard tubes are part of the integral construction of the knife and it appears EVIL is right about that>> then what advantage is there in removing it? And please I'm not trying to be a "wise guy" but what would the advantage be in doing that :confused: ?
Also I wish Spyderco would look into using different materials for their lanyard hole assemblies. I'm thinking that Titanium would be a good choice for that? Because those lanyard holes when used take a lot more friction that we realize.
If it's part of the construction, it needs to stay. On a lot of knives they're basically just for looks, and I think it's a nice touch and does make the knife look nicer/fancier. It's interesting because I just noticed last night that my new Shaman doesn't have a lanyard tube at all and I was wondering if it was intentional or maybe someone missed a step during assembly.
David, I don't think you're Shaman is missing a lanyard tube-- AFAIK they aren't in the design. My Shaman does not have one, nor my natives nor Native Chief.
David, I don't think you're Shaman is missing a lanyard tube-- AFAIK they aren't in the design. My Shaman does not have one, nor my natives nor Native Chief.
Maybe they've noticed people remove them anyway. If it saves even a little cost then I'm ok with it. I like not having an extra tube through the handle especially when there are already a couple other standoffs next to it. On models where the tube is part of the structure it doesn't look so cluttered (Manix 2 for example).
David, I don't think you're Shaman is missing a lanyard tube-- AFAIK they aren't in the design. My Shaman does not have one, nor my natives nor Native Chief.
Maybe they've noticed people remove them anyway. If it saves even a little cost then I'm ok with it. I like not having an extra tube through the handle especially when there are already a couple other standoffs next to it. On models where the tube is part of the structure it doesn't look so cluttered (Manix 2 for example).
On the linerless G10 Native 5 and the Chief, the backspacer has a complete lanyard tunnel, whereas the Shaman doesn't have a completely enclosed tunnel in the backspacer.
People aren’t just removing their lanyard tube as a tubectomy, they’re changing scales. The flared tube is difficult to remove and to reinstall, and there are many aftermarket lanyard tube options. If you have a drill press you can chuck the old tube up and file the flare out enough to reinstall, then a conical device can re-flare the old tube. The Lee universal case mouth expander would work like a champ for re-flaring.
Came in earlier this week and finally got around to trying it. It's fine, and it works, but you can see it's just a bolt with the end still threaded. It does push the tube out, but if you try and push it all the way out, the threads will start to bite into the scales. You have to push the tube out halfway, then jiggle the rest of the way out. Also because it's just threaded, it doesn't center in the lanyard tube before pushing. This may scratch black lanyard tubes. It works though, and better than me trying to jam and pry various objects inbetween the liners.
Came in earlier this week and finally got around to trying it. It's fine, and it works, but you can see it's just a bolt with the end still threaded. It does push the tube out, but if you try and push it all the way out, the threads will start to bite into the scales. You have to push the tube out halfway, then jiggle the rest of the way out. Also because it's just threaded, it doesn't center in the lanyard tube before pushing. This may scratch black lanyard tubes. It works though, and better than me trying to jam and pry various objects inbetween the liners.
Thanks for the update, I kinda figured that by looking at it but definitely still better than the alternative. Maybe someday they will do a version 2 with a rounded bolt. Or maybe you can take the bolt into HD or Lowe’s and see if they have one that will work.
Dane
“Stop buying your kids what you never had and start teaching them what you never knew!”
Came in earlier this week and finally got around to trying it. It's fine, and it works, but you can see it's just a bolt with the end still threaded. It does push the tube out, but if you try and push it all the way out, the threads will start to bite into the scales. You have to push the tube out halfway, then jiggle the rest of the way out. Also because it's just threaded, it doesn't center in the lanyard tube before pushing. This may scratch black lanyard tubes. It works though, and better than me trying to jam and pry various objects inbetween the liners.
Thanks for the update, I kinda figured that by looking at it but definitely still better than the alternative. Maybe someday they will do a version 2 with a rounded bolt. Or maybe you can take the bolt into HD or Lowe’s and see if they have one that will work.
Oh definitely better than the alternative. I've scratched a few scales trying to get the tube out before. I don't care if my lanyard tubes get scratched. Would have been better though if the end was free spinning and centered in the tube before pressing, and I could press it all the way out.
But it went from 30 minutes of screaming at the sky to 5 seconds and some grumbling. Still a win.
