Community Sharpening Journal

Discuss Spyderco's products and history.
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jpm2
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Location: TX - in the sticks

Re: Community Sharpening Journal

Postby jpm2 » Sat Feb 08, 2020 10:22 am

Coarse through EEF diamond plate for repair and initial edge setting, a finely lapped and flattened doublestuff, lapped and flattened hard black Arkansas stone, bare hanging leather strop. I have a new 3x8 spyderco uf, but it's in the process of being flattened. Except for it, just stuff I already had. I might add other stuff, but for now I'll see how this works out.

So far I've achieved edges that will whittle hair, pop hanging hair all along the edge from both sides, but when it comes to the hair falling straight down when touched to the blade (which I understand is what you ultimately want), it rarely happens, and when it does, it's only on 1 or 2 spots on the blade.

I've been experimenting with shaving straight off the DS, ARK, also with stropping after each. So far the best progression is DS, ARK, strop.
All will shave, but the quality difference between them is noticeable.
I thought tree top hair popping and whittling was pretty sharp, but I'm learning it's not enough to give a good shave, at least I don't think so.

As I'm just starting to get my feet wet, it seems the basics are similar to my normal knife sharpening, but technique is different enough to result in a fairly steep learning curve, which I'm near the bottom of. If I learn to do this repeatable, it will be another tool in my arsenal. Either way, I feel it's a good learning experience.

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Ankerson
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Re: Community Sharpening Journal

Postby Ankerson » Sat Feb 22, 2020 11:22 am

Well, finally had to cave in and sharpen that PM2 in S110V that I have been using with the factory edge long term.

Reprofiled and sharpened it today, just couldn't take it anymore... :eek:

Edge retention with the factory edge was lets say horrendous and that's an understatement.

No matter how many times I touched it up, still the same.

All I did was cut cardboard with it since I had it, breaking down boxes etc.

As we know it's best to sharpen any knife out of the box to get the best performance, this was just a test for me to see what some people have been talking about. I don't use factory edges as a rule normally.

I can see were some people are coming from, it's best to tell them to sharpen the knife as we all have been telling them all along.
Last edited by Ankerson on Sat Feb 22, 2020 11:31 am, edited 2 times in total.

Doeswhateveraspidercan
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Re: Community Sharpening Journal

Postby Doeswhateveraspidercan » Sat Feb 22, 2020 11:25 am

Ankerson wrote:
Sat Feb 22, 2020 11:22 am
Well, finally had to cave in and sharpen that PM2 in S110V that I have been using with the factory edge long term.

Reprofiled and sharpened it today.

Edge retention with the factory edge was lets say horrendous and that's an understatement.

No matter how many times I touched it up, still the same.

All I did was cut cardboard with it since I had it, breaking down boxes etc.

As we know it's best to sharpen any knife out of the box to get the best performance, this was just a test for me to see what some people have been talking about. I don't use factory edges as a rule normally.

I can see were some people are coming from, it's best to tell them to sharpen the knife as we all have been telling them all along.
Which tools did you decide on to get the job done?

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Ankerson
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Re: Community Sharpening Journal

Postby Ankerson » Sat Feb 22, 2020 11:27 am

Doeswhateveraspidercan wrote:
Sat Feb 22, 2020 11:25 am
Ankerson wrote:
Sat Feb 22, 2020 11:22 am
Well, finally had to cave in and sharpen that PM2 in S110V that I have been using with the factory edge long term.

Reprofiled and sharpened it today.

Edge retention with the factory edge was lets say horrendous and that's an understatement.

No matter how many times I touched it up, still the same.

All I did was cut cardboard with it since I had it, breaking down boxes etc.

As we know it's best to sharpen any knife out of the box to get the best performance, this was just a test for me to see what some people have been talking about. I don't use factory edges as a rule normally.

I can see were some people are coming from, it's best to tell them to sharpen the knife as we all have been telling them all along.
Which tools did you decide on to get the job done?

What I always use, the Edge Pro with the SIC 320 and 400 grits stones I always use.

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TkoK83Spy
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Location: Syracuse, NY

Re: Community Sharpening Journal

Postby TkoK83Spy » Sun Feb 23, 2020 4:48 pm

Has anybody else noticed, that ever since Vivi left us... sharpening threads have really taken a nose dive? The community lost a lot of knowledge and experience.
20 :spyder:'s in 11 different steels
2 - ZT's - 0460 and 0470
1 - Microtech Ultratech DE OTF
1 - Civivi Elementum

-Rick

Theldraskien
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Location: Ontario, Canada

Re: Community Sharpening Journal

Postby Theldraskien » Sun Feb 23, 2020 6:43 pm

Yes. He was very active when I first joined last year and I enjoyed reading his posts and learned a lot from them.

Doeswhateveraspidercan
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Re: Community Sharpening Journal

Postby Doeswhateveraspidercan » Sun Feb 23, 2020 7:42 pm

I was wondering about Pelagic also he seems to have disappeared at the same time.

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kennethsime
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Re: Community Sharpening Journal

Postby kennethsime » Sun Mar 01, 2020 9:44 pm

Image

Touched up the whole family today. Brown rods on the back bevel, brown + white on the edge. The S30V Para 3 took more time than the others; the left-hand bevel may have been off? It sounded more like a scraping than a rubbing. After about 20 passes per side they're all slicing through glossy magazine paper like nothing.

Not pictured: The Opinel No. 08, the Trango Piranha (climbing knife), and a friend's CTSBD1N Chef Knife which was a major pain. They had several major chips in the blade, and I really wish I had had the CBN or Diamond rods (they're on the list). Started by just scraping the edge against the rod to remove weak old material, then went about the back bevel, and finally edge. I stopped counting, but I think it was something like 150 passes per side on the brown rods before it started cutting the glossy magazine paper. I think I got it to about 75%, which is fine for chopping vegetables.
Lost to the Ages: C90GRE Stretch 1 ZDP-189 British Racing Green | C28GRE2 Dragonfly 2 ZDP-189 British Racing Green
C12BK2W Matriarch 2 VG-10 Emerson Open | C81G2 Para Military 2 S30V

Currently Rotating: C81GPRGR2 Para Military 2 K390 Ranger Green | C223GPRGR Para 3 K390 Ranger Green
C90FPIV2 Stretch 2 Straight Spine, VG-10 Rit Dye'd Dark Apple Green | C223GP Para 3 S30V Green Canvas Micarta
C41BORE5 Native 5 Lightweight REX 45 Burnt Orange | C223BORE Para 3 Lightweight REX 45 Burnt Orange
C101GY2 Manix 2 Lightweight Maxamet Gray | C28GFG Dragonfly VG-10 Foliage Green
MT27 Mule Team 27 Micro-Melt PD#1 Ranger Green | C36GPGR Military 204p Dark Green

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TkoK83Spy
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Re: Community Sharpening Journal

Postby TkoK83Spy » Sun Mar 01, 2020 9:53 pm

Major chips removed after only 150 or so passes on the browns, that must have been some soft steel!
20 :spyder:'s in 11 different steels
2 - ZT's - 0460 and 0470
1 - Microtech Ultratech DE OTF
1 - Civivi Elementum

-Rick

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kennethsime
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Location: California

Re: Community Sharpening Journal

Postby kennethsime » Mon Mar 02, 2020 12:41 am

TkoK83Spy wrote:
Sun Mar 01, 2020 9:53 pm
Major chips removed after only 150 or so passes on the browns, that must have been some soft steel!
Two remained that I didn't have the patience for actually; that's why I felt I got it to "75%." They won't notice slicing vegetables, but I still know they're there.
Lost to the Ages: C90GRE Stretch 1 ZDP-189 British Racing Green | C28GRE2 Dragonfly 2 ZDP-189 British Racing Green
C12BK2W Matriarch 2 VG-10 Emerson Open | C81G2 Para Military 2 S30V

Currently Rotating: C81GPRGR2 Para Military 2 K390 Ranger Green | C223GPRGR Para 3 K390 Ranger Green
C90FPIV2 Stretch 2 Straight Spine, VG-10 Rit Dye'd Dark Apple Green | C223GP Para 3 S30V Green Canvas Micarta
C41BORE5 Native 5 Lightweight REX 45 Burnt Orange | C223BORE Para 3 Lightweight REX 45 Burnt Orange
C101GY2 Manix 2 Lightweight Maxamet Gray | C28GFG Dragonfly VG-10 Foliage Green
MT27 Mule Team 27 Micro-Melt PD#1 Ranger Green | C36GPGR Military 204p Dark Green

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TkoK83Spy
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Location: Syracuse, NY

Re: Community Sharpening Journal

Postby TkoK83Spy » Fri Mar 06, 2020 9:36 am

I'm thinking of getting this stone to be my reprofiling stone...after 5 reprofilings with my CBN rods, they feel like they are beginning to lose a bit of their bite. Not terribly, but I can feel the difference. They've been used on one of each of these steels - 8cr13mov, AEB-L, S30V, M390 and 20CV. So a couple that took some time.

https://www.knifecenter.com/item/DMTW6C ... lastic-Box


Has anybody used this stone before? I'm also looking at this one... https://www.knifecenter.com/item/SMIDBS ... one-Coarse

I'm leaning towards the DMT at the moment, based on all the good things I see about their products
20 :spyder:'s in 11 different steels
2 - ZT's - 0460 and 0470
1 - Microtech Ultratech DE OTF
1 - Civivi Elementum

-Rick

Doeswhateveraspidercan
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Re: Community Sharpening Journal

Postby Doeswhateveraspidercan » Fri Mar 06, 2020 9:56 am

Hey spy,

Have not used either but the first thing that comes to mind is they are both only 6 inches.

Can’t recommend either of these but can say get a 140 grit Atoma I have all of these in different grits and they work fantastic!

https://www.chefknivestogo.com/at14dipl.html

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TkoK83Spy
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Location: Syracuse, NY

Re: Community Sharpening Journal

Postby TkoK83Spy » Fri Mar 06, 2020 10:16 am

Thanks, I'll take a look into those as well!
20 :spyder:'s in 11 different steels
2 - ZT's - 0460 and 0470
1 - Microtech Ultratech DE OTF
1 - Civivi Elementum

-Rick

ekastanis
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Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2018 6:05 pm

Re: Community Sharpening Journal

Postby ekastanis » Fri Mar 06, 2020 1:00 pm

TkoK83Spy wrote:
Fri Mar 06, 2020 9:36 am
I'm thinking of getting this stone to be my reprofiling stone...
I don't have that stone but I have the DMT D8C (the 8" coarse uninterrupted surface stone), and I wouldn't recommend it for reprofiling. It's good for putting a toothy edge on hard steels, but it would be relatively slow for reprofiling (although not compared to using the Sharpmaker). If you can find a good price on it, the D8XX extra coarse stone is very fast and requires very little pressure. If cost is more of a concern, a Norton Crystolon coarse is cheap and effective for reprofiling.

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RustyIron
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Re: Community Sharpening Journal

Postby RustyIron » Fri Mar 06, 2020 1:17 pm

Here's a nice bit of kit that I didn't want to spend money on, but now that I have, I'm really pleased. Recently I came to the conclusion that I needed to be more precise in my techniques and tools if I was to improve my sharpening. My stones have always been reasonably flat through the use of a flattening stone. Reasonably flat. But you can't make a perfect edge with "reasonably flat."

So I threw down on a sheet of glass, some silicon carbide, and some aluminum oxide. Dude! Why did I wait so long? It's quick, it makes the stones as flat as I can imagine, and the unexpected benefit is that it breaks the glaze. Stones that I never liked from the factory are now a pleasure to use.

This isn't my picture, but you get the idea.
Attachments
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Theldraskien
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Location: Ontario, Canada

Re: Community Sharpening Journal

Postby Theldraskien » Fri Mar 06, 2020 1:29 pm

I’ve been a little reluctant to do this because it sounds super messy and I don’t have a solid grasp of what grit loose carbide to use compared to the grit of the stone(s).

Advice appreciated!

Doeswhateveraspidercan
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Re: Community Sharpening Journal

Postby Doeswhateveraspidercan » Fri Mar 06, 2020 4:13 pm

Theldraskien wrote:
Fri Mar 06, 2020 1:29 pm
I’ve been a little reluctant to do this because it sounds super messy and I don’t have a solid grasp of what grit loose carbide to use compared to the grit of the stone(s).

Advice appreciated!
This should help I have their kit which is not in stock but it will tell you what to use with what.

https://www.gritomatic.com/collections/ ... r-full-set

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RustyIron
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Re: Community Sharpening Journal

Postby RustyIron » Fri Mar 06, 2020 5:01 pm

Theldraskien wrote:
Fri Mar 06, 2020 1:29 pm
I’ve been a little reluctant to do this because it sounds super messy and I don’t have a solid grasp of what grit loose carbide to use compared to the grit of the stone(s).

Advice appreciated!
I just bought what EdgePro recommended on their web page. I got 240 grit aluminum oxide for their diamond matrix stones, and 60 grit silicon carbide for everything else. It wasn't at all messy. The rubber around the edge of the plate keeps everything neat.

The 60 grit seemed coarse, but I started with my coarse stones. The abrasive degrades through use, so by the time I got to the really fine stones, the silicon carbide was pretty spent. I was having so much fun I did all my good stones, probably 15-20 total.

The abrasives I got will last a LONG time.

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Cambertree
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Location: Victoria, Australia

Re: Community Sharpening Journal

Postby Cambertree » Sat Mar 07, 2020 11:20 pm

Theldraskien wrote:
Fri Mar 06, 2020 1:29 pm
I’ve been a little reluctant to do this because it sounds super messy and I don’t have a solid grasp of what grit loose carbide to use compared to the grit of the stone(s).

Advice appreciated!
Generally just use a slightly coarser grit powder for lapping than the benchstone grit.

If you happen to use the Venev silicon carbide or alumina powder, just remember the grit size is expressed according to the FEPA-F scale which is different to the usual Japanese and US grit scales.

There’s a comparative universal grit chart on the Gritomatic website you can use as a reference tool:

https://www.gritomatic.com/pages/grit-chart

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Ankerson
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Location: Raleigh, NC

Re: Community Sharpening Journal

Postby Ankerson » Sun Mar 15, 2020 9:57 am

Follow up on the PM2 in S110V that I was using with the factory edge for months and then went ahead sharpened it.

YUP, it's performing like S110V now that I raised a good bur and sharpened it.

It's like a completely different knife now, massive difference, actually holds an edge now like S110V should.

All I use that knife for is opening and cutting down boxes.

So yeah I can see what some people have been talking about now that I did it myself.

I just don't use factory edges as a rule, I normally always sharpen any knife I am going to use right out of the box.


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