Community Sharpening Journal

[Brock O Lee]

That is a good thin grind to have such a narrow bevel at 10 dps.

[Ranger_Ike]

I go all the way to the apex on my coarsest stones when setting an edge, whether it'll be the final stone I use or I give the apex a full polish.

that said, you don't have to form a burr to know you've set the edge, but it does make it easier to tell.

you have a double bevel. a microbevel is about the size of a burr for comparison. you can microbevel with a 600 grit stone after using the 50. You can do 1-3 strokes per side and keep some of the teeth the coarse stones leave, or 5-10 and fully polish the apex.

whichever route you take, the idea with microbevels is to use the smallest number of strokes to achieve the polish / sharpness desired. for example if I set an edge to 10 dps on a 200 grit diamond stone, then microbevel with the spyderco medium rods at 15 dps, it takes fewer than 10 strokes per side in my experience to clean up the apex on a middle of the road steel like s30v or vg10.

i hope this feedback is constructive and helpful. good to see some reprofiled chiefs - they have amazing out of box geometry, and with a little tweaking of the bevel they have incredible cutting performance. Recently took one of my M4 Chiefs a little thinner myself.

Thank you for the input. Nice to learn the proper terminology. I didn’t realize the difference in the two bevels. I think I’m going to purchase some cheaper knives and practice the different techniques. I am thinking of getting a few Byrd line knives, since I still want a quality knife with a good heat treatment.

Thanks again.

[ZrowsN1s]

Native 5 LW, 10DPS mirror finish, .027" BTE., 86 BESS (measured twice).

Sharpened on a WE130, Diamond Stones, 100, 200, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2200, 3000. Diamond lapping films, 6, 3, 1, .1 micron.

Was careful to stop using the 100 grit as soon as I got close to the apex, then let appexing occur as I refined the scratches. I've had an issue of the low grits making big notches in the apex that then have to be worked out later, so I figured don't make them in the first place.

This took FOREVER to reprofile. Maxamet does not like to give up steel. Pleased with the results. Easily the best edge I've ever done, and yet, I want better. I like the WE, but they're abrasive selection is holding me back a little. I feel like this is as good as I'm ever going to get with their stones.

I feel like I won't get the edges I want until I move to freehand sharpening and start using the better abrasives available to free handers. I really like the guided systems though, that edge is dead 10DPS I doubt I could do that free hand no matter how much I practice. And yes Edgepro is an option, but even they have limited abrasives compared to freehand.

[Wandering_About]

Native 5 LW, 10DPS mirror finish, .027" BTE., 86 BESS (measured twice).

Sharpened on a WE130, Diamond Stones, 100, 200, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2200, 3000. Diamond lapping films, 6, 3, 1, .1 micron.

Was careful to stop using the 100 grit as soon as I got close to the apex, then let appexing occur as I refined the scratches. I've had an issue of the low grits making big notches in the apex that then have to be worked out later, so I figured don't make them in the first place.

This took FOREVER to reprofile. Maxamet does not like to give up steel. Pleased with the results. Easily the best edge I've ever done, and yet, I want better. I like the WE, but they're abrasive selection is holding me back a little. I feel like this is as good as I'm ever going to get with their stones.

I feel like I won't get the edges I want until I move to freehand sharpening and start using the better abrasives available to free handers. I really like the guided systems though, that edge is dead 10DPS I doubt I could do that free hand no matter how much I practice. And yes Edgepro is an option, but even they have limited abrasives compared to freehand.

Nice work! Maxamet takes lots of patience to reprofile, but I'm always impressed with how well it comes up SHARP at the end of the process. Deburrs like a dream. Been busy carrying other steels lately, but I'll have to get some Maxamet out for a little love at some point soon.

Will be interested to hear how it does for you at 10dps, I always finish it off with maybe 15-18ish dps for durability.

[ZrowsN1s]

Ya, it is SLOW to sharpen, yet also EASY to sharpen (at least on a guided system). Very interesting mix.

I sharpened my K390 Wharncliffe Delica the same way. Plan on using the Galley V to maintain.

[Wandering_About]

My beloved K390 Para 3 took a little incidental contact with concrete, so I took it as an opportunity to give it a second reprofile. The first reprofile I did on it was when I had first gotten back into sharpening, and was way steeper than what I usually do now, so I took it down to current specs. Figured while I was at it, I'd reprofile my smurf blue M390 Para 3, to complete a reprofiling of two rather overpriced Para 3s! For the record, K390 deburrs better than M390, which is no surprise given M390's chromium carbide content.

Atoma 140 then 400 plates, then super vitrified 1000 grit to put the edge/microbevel on, and finally stropped on smooth hard leather with 1 micron diamond spray.

[WilliamMunny]

I just got the new REC Manix and so of course now looking sharpening system. I had a guided Lansky system back in the day (25 years ago) but never really liked it. Felt there was too much play in the rods and getting a good clamp on a flat ground knife was hard. Currently I use a Worksharp guided system with diamond stones. Works well, can take a ton of steel off even hard steels, but I find it still a bit crude as I am only okay free hand and tends to round the tip over time. I can get knives pretty sharp but not factory sharp. I also use some King whetstones for hand planes and chisels.

I am highly considering getting the Sharpmaker, but I have read it’s really only good for touch ups. Will the basic rods work on harder steels (z-max, S90V, etc) or would I need to spend more on a diamond rod? Is this worth getting to up my sharpening game or is there something better sub $100?

I just don’t want to waste $100 on something that won’t do much better than what I already have. Thanks.

[TkoK83Spy]

WorkSharp guided system, as in the Precision Adjust?

[WilliamMunny]

WorkSharp guided system, as in the Precision Adjust?

No the guided / freehand system. I also have the expansion that includes the course and ultra fine plates.

[TkoK83Spy]

WorkSharp guided system, as in the Precision Adjust?

No the guided / freehand system. I also have the expansion that includes the course and ultra fine plates.
B26C153A-08AF-47F6-9CCF-9F028DFBEAA9.jpeg

Take a look at the Precision Adjust, I've had mine for I'm guessing around a year...for the money, I don't think there's anything else that can beat it for under $100. I've posted quite a bit about it and my results, I believe a lot in this thread actually.

[RustyIron]

I just don’t want to waste $100 on something that won’t do much better than what I already have. Thanks.

You can have cheap, or you can have good.
Rarely can you have both.

My recommendation if you're trying to save money is to get an Edge Pro Apex system, and then the Edge Pro branded diamond matrix stones, from 80 through 1200. It's going to cost you more than your target price point.

If you're a baller, get the Edge Pro Professional and the full set of diamond matrix stones.

[vivi]

I just got the new REC Manix and so of course now looking sharpening system. I had a guided Lansky system back in the day (25 years ago) but never really liked it. Felt there was too much play in the rods and getting a good clamp on a flat ground knife was hard. Currently I use a Worksharp guided system with diamond stones. Works well, can take a ton of steel off even hard steels, but I find it still a bit crude as I am only okay free hand and tends to round the tip over time. I can get knives pretty sharp but not factory sharp. I also use some King whetstones for hand planes and chisels.

I am highly considering getting the Sharpmaker, but I have read it’s really only good for touch ups. Will the basic rods work on harder steels (z-max, S90V, etc) or would I need to spend more on a diamond rod? Is this worth getting to up my sharpening game or is there something better sub $100?

I just don’t want to waste $100 on something that won’t do much better than what I already have. Thanks.

I use a sharpmaker with standard rods paired with the $12 harbor freight 4 sided stones. aside from things I'd use a belt sander for, that combo handles all my sharpening needs.

i'd work on getting freehand edges at least factory sharp. being proficient at freehand gives you many more options in a wider price range.

sharpmaker stones work fine for all steels in my experience. Though these days I like to finish my edges with something coarser than the ceramics.

I like to set thin bevels freehand on coarse diamond stones, then microbevel with the sharpmaker. This is faster than trying to take the whole bevel to a fine polish and maintaining it by sharpening the full bevel.

Diamond rods are nice to have, but not essential if you already have coarse diamond stones. They're great for applying a toothy apex, reprofiling PE if you don't trust yourself free hand, reprofiling SE, and repairing damage. If you maintain your edges frequently and don't chip your edge, you can do without. But I prefer keeping diamond rods and fine rods in my kit rather than fine and medium - much more versatile of a setup.

[JRinFL]

I just touched up two LC200N Salts tonight. That stuff really is easy to work with, especially with a Sharpmaker. Feels similar to Bd1n.

[ZrowsN1s]

WorkSharp guided system, as in the Precision Adjust?

No the guided / freehand system. I also have the expansion that includes the course and ultra fine plates.
B26C153A-08AF-47F6-9CCF-9F028DFBEAA9.jpeg

Depends on what you want to do. If you're cool with a 20DPS micro bevel, and slowly working down the shoulders at 15dps over SEVERAL sharpening sessions, the sharpmaker is all you need.

Reprofiling is a different story. It's a slow process on anything except a belt grinder or a large and aggressive free hand stone. Very slow on the sharpmaker. But for maintenance or basic sharpening like I described, it's perfect. The ceramic stones are hard enough to cut anything Spyderco makes.

You can also use the sharpmaker to set two stones flat and free hand sharpen with them.

[Soanso McMasters]

WorkSharp guided system, as in the Precision Adjust?

No the guided / freehand system. I also have the expansion that includes the course and ultra fine plates.
B26C153A-08AF-47F6-9CCF-9F028DFBEAA9.jpeg

Depends on what you want to do. If you're cool with a 20DPS micro bevel, and slowly working down the shoulders at 15dps over SEVERAL sharpening sessions, the sharpmaker is all you need.

Reprofiling is a different story. It's a slow process on anything except a belt grinder or a large and aggressive free hand stone. Very slow on the sharpmaker. But for maintenance or basic sharpening like I described, it's perfect. The ceramic stones are hard enough to cut anything Spyderco makes.

You can also use the sharpmaker to set two stones flat and free hand sharpen with them.

I would add guided systems like the KME or Wicked Edge to the “easy” list for reprofiling. Both of those systems make the job quick and easy.

[ZrowsN1s]

118, 128, 130 for an average of 125 BESS (I had one 100 result but I think it was an outlier, you have to be careful not to make any lateral movement or it skews the numbers lower).

An even 15DPS measured by the goniometer. .029" BTE.

Sharpened on WE 130, sharpened to 1000 grit diamond, then about 20 passes each with, 1500, 2200, and 3000. Then 6 and 3 micron lapping film on glass, stropped with 1 and .5 micron cbn paste on kangaroo leather, then 1 and .1 micron lapping film on glass.

Adding the stropping in between lapping film grits not only helped the mirror polish, but also noticeably improved the edge.

[Wandering_About]

Nice edge. I have to admit that every time I read what people go through for mirror polished edges, I'm glad I don't like them

[vivi]

Nice edge. I have to admit that every time I read what people go through for mirror polished edges, I'm glad I don't like them

hah, you and me both. I can touch up my pocket knife before most people setup their sharpening equipment.

I use polished apexes on my kitchen knives but I still keep the bevels with a 200 grit finish. Doesn't seem to affect performance vs sharpening a full bevel.

[ZrowsN1s]

Nice edge. I have to admit that every time I read what people go through for mirror polished edges, I'm glad I don't like them

hah, you and me both. I can touch up my pocket knife before most people setup their sharpening equipment.

I use polished apexes on my kitchen knives but I still keep the bevels with a 200 grit finish. Doesn't seem to affect performance vs sharpening a full bevel.

With WE system the mirror polish is the fastest part of the process. Then you just need a strop to touch it up if you stay on top of it.

It takes probably 10 strokes with the 6 micron lapping film to take a 1000 grit finish to a dull mirror. 10-15 with a 3 micron film and you're there. Everything after that is just making the mirror shinier.

*95% of my sharpening time is reprofiling with a 200 grit diamond stone. Once you're apexed and sharp there, the rest is just icing on the cake.

2% of my sharpening time IS getting the knife taped, clamped, and setting the angle. But my angles are pretty dead on, they're the angle I want them to be, and without even a hint of convexity.

It may not be 'necessary' to have perfect angles, but if you're into that sort of thing I doubt many people could do this free hand if you gave them all the time in the world.

[Wandering_About]

Touch up on the Stretch 2 in K390. 1000 grit super vitrified diamond stone and strop with 1 micron diamond.