Community Sharpening Journal

[Pelagic]

Thanks for the detailed rundown, Pelagic - yeah I run a similar edge on S30V at the moment - a coarse edge, finished with a very light touch, then a few passes each on 3, 1, 0.25 and 0.1 um diamond and CBN strops.

Am I right in thinking that you don't tend to take your Shaman out to work on the boat? It'd be interesting to compare the stropped edge on the abrasive materials you cut out there, compared to a straight 325 grit edge without stropping.

I like that kind if edge for all s###v steels. I do take the Shaman out there currently. Since losing my Pacific Salt, I am mostly cutting rope with my little SE Dexter Russell fixed blade. It's thin and walks right through it and is surprisingly capable of achieving high sharpness. The Shaman gets used for random tasks though. I do try to minimize stropping GENERALLY, but I'm most concerned with minimizing stropping when I'll he cutting rope (regardless, I try to get any knife as sharp as possible before moving on). Since I have a SE knife I'm fine with my PE knife having a finer edge. Another issue is that my DMT stones are past their prime. They work, but they do not cut as efficiently as before, and are beginning to burnish the edge. I find it's more difficult to whittle hairs now straight off my 325 grit, and is difficult to even CATCH hairs off my 220 grit reprofiling stone, which is more worn out than the others. I've even recently been using it to flatten a SiC Norton Cristolon and it needs to be replaced (I'm leaning towards an Atoma plate - possibly a set). So unfortunately I halfway use brief stropping as a crutch for the last bit of sharpness when 220 or 325 grit apex teeth are desired. I believe my 600 grit stone can achieve hair whittling sharpness without stropping though, so that is an option as well. DMT stones technically last half a lifetime under light use, but they do get ever so slightly worse with every sharpening. They will remove steel and absolutely get a blade sharp, but someone hellbent on achieving hair whittling sharpness will notice the drop in performance and feel the need to use something else for the finishing touch. You want the stone to cut the steel effortlessly, leaving absolutely fresh unfatigued steel at the apex.

[vivi]

This is my current project:



Got my buddy a Cara Cara a while back. Today is going to be its first sharpening. PE area is dull and chipped, so is the tip. Serrations are in pretty good shape.

Plan to use my DMT stones freehand on the PE part, then once the damage is repaired, use the sharpmaker along the entire edge.

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

Should be an easy fix for you. I had to do the same for a coworker's Benchmade in the same steel. It is very easy steel to work with I like 8CR

[ferider]

Anybody else use Spyderco ceramic benchstones ?

[Pelagic]

Anybody else use Spyderco ceramic benchstones ?

I plan on getting a medium one day. I wish they made all three stones in 8x3". I think only the UF stone comes in that size.

[ferider]

I plan on getting a medium one day. I wish they made all three stones in 8x3". I think only the UF stone comes in that size.

Just FYI, my medium and fine ones are 8x2. Feels plenty, for a 3.5" folder as above. Wider would be nicer for - say - Military or longer.

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

Spyderco makes all three in 8 X2 Medium , Fine and Ultra Fine. I have both the medium and the fine but have held off on the UF because the two of these work so well.

To answer the question yes I do use these stones I found it very useful taking the chips out of a Cold Steel Recon Tanto unscrupulous seller sold to me on eBay.

I have also been using these stones teaching myself how to free hand and so far have brought both a Delica Cruwear and Delica Hap40 Wharncliffe to a very nice degree of sharpness.

Great stones highly recommend them the case is very practical even has silicone feet to keep the unit from sliding while sharpening

[The Meat man]

Recently went through my first sharpening experience with LC200N.

My Autonomy 2 wasn't really dull, but it had lost the super sharp edge it came with from the factory. It was more of a touch up than a full reprofile.
I used my small DMT sharpening card (fine) I keep in my wallet, holding it in my left hand and sharpening with my right, keeping to the factory edge angle which is probably around 30 dps.
It took maybe 15 minutes or so to get the factory scratches sharpened out. I deburred as best I could before moving to a 14 micron strop, then finished on a 3 micron strop. Here I discovered that there was still a tiny burr along a portion of the blade and it took me a little while to work it off with the strop, but in the end the edge polished up very nicely and took a very sharp edge.
So far I like how this steel responds to sharpening. Eventually I may lower the edge angle, but for now I am content to use and sharpen it as is. Great knife.

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

Recently went through my first sharpening experience with LC200N.

My Autonomy 2 wasn't really dull, but it had lost the super sharp edge it came with from the factory. It was more of a touch up than a full reprofile.
I used my small DMT sharpening card (fine) I keep in my wallet, holding it in my left hand and sharpening with my right, keeping to the factory edge angle which is probably around 30 dps.
It took maybe 15 minutes or so to get the factory scratches sharpened out. I deburred as best I could before moving to a 14 micron strop, then finished on a 3 micron strop. Here I discovered that there was still a tiny burr along a portion of the blade and it took me a little while to work it off with the strop, but in the end the edge polished up very nicely and took a very sharp edge.
So far I like how this steel responds to sharpening. Eventually I may lower the edge angle, but for now I am content to use and sharpen it as is. Great knife.

Looks very nice indeed.

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

I have narrowed down my next purchase to one of two stone sets.

The Vanev Bonded ( With new bonding agent that is not so hard that the finer grits fail to perform) 8 inch Splash and go double sided 3 stone set that Michael Christy reviewed with both Hap 40 and S90V Spyderco's.

The second set is the Atoma diamond plates.

Who among us have experience with both?

Which would you choose and why?

[JD Spydo]

Anybody else use Spyderco ceramic benchstones ?

Oh yeah!! I use my Spyderco 302 Benchstones quite often. I just used them yesterday sharpening my C-60 Ayoob model. It seems like those blades with a nice belly do really well on those Spyderco 302 ceramic sharpening stones. I have two sets of them and even the medium/gray stones have held up and not dished out on my at all like some say.

I also love them for sharpening longer fixed blades too.

[The Meat man]

Looks very nice indeed.

Thanks!

[Cambertree]

I like that kind if edge for all s###v steels. I do take the Shaman out there currently. Since losing my Pacific Salt, I am mostly cutting rope with my little SE Dexter Russell fixed blade. It's thin and walks right through it and is surprisingly capable of achieving high sharpness. The Shaman gets used for random tasks though. I do try to minimize stropping GENERALLY, but I'm most concerned with minimizing stropping when I'll he cutting rope (regardless, I try to get any knife as sharp as possible before moving on). Since I have a SE knife I'm fine with my PE knife having a finer edge. Another issue is that my DMT stones are past their prime. They work, but they do not cut as efficiently as before, and are beginning to burnish the edge. I find it's more difficult to whittle hairs now straight off my 325 grit, and is difficult to even CATCH hairs off my 220 grit reprofiling stone, which is more worn out than the others. I've even recently been using it to flatten a SiC Norton Cristolon and it needs to be replaced (I'm leaning towards an Atoma plate - possibly a set). So unfortunately I halfway use brief stropping as a crutch for the last bit of sharpness when 220 or 325 grit apex teeth are desired. I believe my 600 grit stone can achieve hair whittling sharpness without stropping though, so that is an option as well. DMT stones technically last half a lifetime under light use, but they do get ever so slightly worse with every sharpening. They will remove steel and absolutely get a blade sharp, but someone hellbent on achieving hair whittling sharpness will notice the drop in performance and feel the need to use something else for the finishing touch. You want the stone to cut the steel effortlessly, leaving absolutely fresh unfatigued steel at the apex.

Thanks Pelagic.

Yeah, if I was to start again with a fresh set of diamond plates, I think I’d avoid using them to lap other stones flat, so as to retain that sharp bite a bit longer after breaking them in.

At the moment, I just use SiC powder on a piece of glass to do that job.

My guess, considering the different ways the diamond abrasive is bonded to the plates with the DMT and Atomas, is that the Atomas might last a bit longer.

I went through a phase of using either no stropping or only a couple of passes to finish with, in order to retain that crisp edge straight off the stones. But at the moment I’ve been experimenting with using diamond and CBN spray emulsions on different homemade stropping substrates to refine the edges of high vanadium/tungsten steels.

Ferider: yeah I use the Spyderco UF 3”x 8” ceramic as a finishing stone. I got it based on Michael Christy and BBB’s recommendations.

Mine came with machining striations on it and rough edges, so it needed a bit more lapping and chamfering of the edges before use.

I was a bit surprised at that, although I admit I hold Spyderco to a higher standard than most other manufacturers.

In use, I’ve really been enjoying it. It leaves a very nice polished finish and a highly refined, crisp feeling edge. The size is great too.

Depending on the steel, it’s often my last finishing stone in my initial sharpening progression.

Meatman: that edge looks great, thanks for the detailed account. I’ve recently had my first experience with thinning out and resharpening LC200N on my Waterway and Caribbean too.

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

Decision made. You guys might wantlook at Big Brown Bears YouTube channel, by mistake I stumbled on one of his videos that pretty much explains it all. https://youtu.be/cYx7jsen5e4

Long story short ordering the diamond bench stones from Gritomatic.

[Chris_P_Bacon]

I have narrowed down my next purchase to one of two stone sets.

The Vanev Bonded ( With new bonding agent that is not so hard that the finer grits fail to perform) 8 inch Splash and go double sided 3 stone set that Michael Christy reviewed with both Hap 40 and S90V Spyderco's.

The second set is the Atoma diamond plates.

Who among us have experience with both?

Which would you choose and why?

The USA distributor of the Russian made Venev stones website is Gritomatic, as I'm sure you're probably already aware. But their website descriptions could use a little more clarity. So I Emailed the man behind the site, Konstantine.

As it turns out, the only Grits to get the newer bonding called OCB is the 800 and 1200. The harder bonding on the lower grits wasn't really causing any issues, and therefore wasn't changed.

Also these are not rated with the same scale most Americans are used too. So the 800/1200 combo stone is actually much finer than it's rating would suggest.

With all that somewhat cleared up. I chose both. Atoma's for several reasons, they last longer than DMT. Also, for Re-profiling quickly, without worry of dishing. Toothy edges, etc. The diamonds are raised, and can leave deep scratches. But if you want toothy, that's a good thing.

Went with Venev diamond (and Naniwa diamond) because with some steel types, I just want a razor sharp slicer (with no teeth) laid down thin. These stones do that, and they do it well, and they do it with very little effort. Re-profiling takes a bit longer here however, so Atoma's are good to have laying around also. Goes back to that old "Right tool for the right job" thang.

So if you're not going to get both, ask yourself what your goals are, and choose based on that.

[Chris_P_Bacon]

By the time I typed all that, you already decided :D

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

I have narrowed down my next purchase to one of two stone sets.

The Vanev Bonded ( With new bonding agent that is not so hard that the finer grits fail to perform) 8 inch Splash and go double sided 3 stone set that Michael Christy reviewed with both Hap 40 and S90V Spyderco's.

The second set is the Atoma diamond plates.

Who among us have experience with both?

Which would you choose and why?

The USA distributor of the Russian made Venev stones website is Gritomatic, as I'm sure you're probably already aware. But their website descriptions could use a little more clarity. So I Emailed the man behind the site, Konstantine.

As it turns out, the only Grits to get the newer bonding called OCB is the 800 and 1200. The harder bonding on the lower grits wasn't really causing any issues, and therefore wasn't changed.

Also these are not rated with the same scale most Americans are used too. So the 800/1200 combo stone is actually much finer than it's rating would suggest.

With all that somewhat cleared up. I chose both. Atoma's for several reasons, they last longer than DMT. Also, for Re-profiling quickly, without worry of dishing. Toothy edges, etc. The diamonds are raised, and can leave deep scratches. But if you want toothy, that's a good thing.

Went with Venev diamond (and Naniwa diamond) because with some steel types, I just want a razor sharp slicer (with no teeth) laid down thin. These stones do that, and they do it well, and they do it with very little effort. Re-profiling takes a bit longer here however, so Atoma's are good to have laying around also. Goes back to that old "Right tool for the right job" thang.

So if you're not going to get both, ask yourself what your goals are, and choose based on that.

Thank for sharing your experience.

Might want to check the site again the changed the bonding (OCB) on the 400 /600 as well.

https://www.gritomatic.com/products/ven ... 8456031341

As for re-profiling I learned early on using the Hapstone 7 with the older Venev diamonds they could not cut S90V as aggressively as my Wicked Edge Pro 3 Plated stones could but I also learned how fast I could wear out plated stones as well.

I took a Military in S90V down to 10 degrees and that takes some doing and I am not talking sharp point thin bevels either it is still a work in progress I stopped deciding I needed more education before going any further and it still needs allot of work.

I bought it used on ebay and the bevels were really screwed up by the previous owner. Hence the the need to take it down uniformly to 10 degrees. Aww shucks hold on taking a picture...

Here we go 100 Grit scratched up ugly. Will have to sand it out.








S90V is no joke.

When It comes to heavy re-profiling I will probably use my Ken Onion with blade grinder attachment with the belt held tight and run it very slowly and keep the blade cool. Then follow up with the venev stones.

I just learned last week from both Michael Christy and Big Brown Bear videos that the Venev load up and you have to use a nigura stone to clean them out with water.

Pretty cool :)

After these stones I will probably use my Spyderco Bench stones and sharp-maker to maintain.

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

By the time I typed all that, you already decided :D

No effort wasted we are all educating each other and that is great. :)

[Bloke]

I just learned last week from both Michael Christy and Big Brown Bear videos that the Venev load up and you have to use a nigura stone to clean them out with water.

Hey Does, that's very interesting. I generally do everything with SiC but I do go to a Venev 1200grit diamond or CBN if a particular blade steel is frustrating me and and I'm not getting the desired results and can't say I've experienced any clogging. That said I use plenty of Windex irrespective of the abrasive and I'm anal about flat stones so always start and finish with a fresh lapped/flattened stones including bonded Venev's off loose grit SiC and water on glass. :rolleyes:

Regarding the nigura, is it "special" or just a nigura like the ones that come with Japanese Naniwa Chosera's?

[Cambertree]

Decision made. You guys might wantlook at Big Brown Bears YouTube channel, by mistake I stumbled on one of his videos that pretty much explains it all. https://youtu.be/cYx7jsen5e4

Long story short ordering the diamond bench stones from Gritomatic.

Good stuff, I was gonna recommend the Venevs along with the Atoma 140 for fast stock removal.

I have the first edition 400/800 and 1200/2000 in both benchstones and pocket stones.

I've ordered the OCB 240/400 and 800/1200 in pocket stones to check them out.

(Also have the full set of Atomas for stock removal and clean bevel setting, before progressing to the Venevs.)

One thing with the bonded diamond stones is they load up quite fast, which is why I recommend the Atoma 140 for initial thinning out.

I don't know whether you're aware, but it's a good idea to lap the Venevs flat before use. I use different grades of the Gritomatic Silicon Carbide powder on glass for each grit size - it's very economical.

Check out the universal grit comparison chart on the Gritomatic site for FEPA-F and JIS comparisons with other grit sizes and micron ranges. It's handy for working out what progressions of stones to use.

Bloke, I've used the Chosera nagura stone to scrub the Venevs, but currently I use a rather soft natural nagura stone, as I figure it removes less of the binder material, and extends stone life, as the diamonds only extend to about 1mm depth.