How are they? I have been looking at their 3 stone kit for awhile now, seems like a lot of product for $100.
Community Sharpening Journal
- WilliamMunny
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Re: Community Sharpening Journal
Endura AUS-8, Manix 2 S30V, Alcyone BD1N, PM2 Micarta Cruwear, Native 5 Maxamet (2nd), Para 3 Maxamet (2nd), Magnacut Mule, Z-Wear Mule, BBB 15V Manix 2, REC PM3 10V Satin, Dragonfly Salt 2, GB2 M4.
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id avoid those and go with continuous. they work faster than the ones with holes.
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everyone here needs to try one of these. 1mm stock, extremely thin bte, steel takes a razor edge effortlessly. folks out there cutting up food with your 3-4mm thick folders, you're missing out.
I've got a few of these scattered around the house and my restaurant. This one I did a few strokes on the diamond rods at 15 degrees, then medium then fine at 20 degrees. The steel is kind of soft so I use 20 instead of 15 with this brand to help avoid having the edge roll.
Crazy high performance for $5. Really shows off how much geometry matters.
I've got a few of these scattered around the house and my restaurant. This one I did a few strokes on the diamond rods at 15 degrees, then medium then fine at 20 degrees. The steel is kind of soft so I use 20 instead of 15 with this brand to help avoid having the edge roll.
Crazy high performance for $5. Really shows off how much geometry matters.
Re: Community Sharpening Journal
I bet that's a lot of fun to work with, that's silly thin.
15 's in 10 different steels
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
-Rick
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
-Rick
- WilliamMunny
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Re: Community Sharpening Journal
I feel like you could turn that knife over and still cut things with the back.
Endura AUS-8, Manix 2 S30V, Alcyone BD1N, PM2 Micarta Cruwear, Native 5 Maxamet (2nd), Para 3 Maxamet (2nd), Magnacut Mule, Z-Wear Mule, BBB 15V Manix 2, REC PM3 10V Satin, Dragonfly Salt 2, GB2 M4.
Re: Community Sharpening Journal
I think it's easier with bigger stones. I have two DMT duosharp 8" - an extra coarse/coarse and a fine/extra fine. They have seen a lot of use but still cut quite well. If I was buying again I would just get one coarse/fine 8" duo sharp. When I get a new knife I generally start by reprofiling to about 15 dps. The coarse is good for this and I think you only really need a coarser grit for major reprofiling or regrinding. It is not hard to get a shaving edge off the coarse which I then refine with a few passes on a leather strop with 1 micron diamond paste. The trouble with this is that I am an obsessive sharpener and end up removing too much steel. Lately I have been sharpening with the fine DMT which leaves a bit of tooth and then maintaining the edge with the strop until it the real hair popping edge stops coming back. Then I hit it with the DMT fine again and the edge is usually back in under a minute.WilliamMunny wrote: ↑Mon Oct 24, 2022 4:28 pmHow are they? I have been looking at their 3 stone kit for awhile now, seems like a lot of product for $100.
471F578F-E9E1-4386-95A4-4BCC955A6703.png
Having said all this I have become keen to try a bonded diamond stone and have been looking at a Venev Phoenix 400/800 grit as an affordable starting point. I do like to use different edges on different steels and I think the advantage of the bonded stone for me would be less danger of damaging the edge as I reach the apex with coarse grits. I have had some problems with this with high carbide steels like S110V and have learned to be very gentle at the apex but the bonded stones would probably be better. I am only a journeyman sharpener.
Dan
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I enjoy that Duosharp stone as well. Typically go freehand on that when removing a lot of steel, then set it up on the Precision Adjust to refine it a bit if I feel the need. Nice combo for not that much money.
15 's in 10 different steels
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
-Rick
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
-Rick
- WilliamMunny
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Re: Community Sharpening Journal
Anyone use the Atoma diamond stones? The posted video said they were pretty good and were used to flatten Whetstones. Figure if you had a nice big surface to set an edge and to flatten whetstones it’s a win win.
Endura AUS-8, Manix 2 S30V, Alcyone BD1N, PM2 Micarta Cruwear, Native 5 Maxamet (2nd), Para 3 Maxamet (2nd), Magnacut Mule, Z-Wear Mule, BBB 15V Manix 2, REC PM3 10V Satin, Dragonfly Salt 2, GB2 M4.
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I've heard nothing but good things about them and would have 100% confidence buying any of their stones. They're very popular with folks into high end kitchen knives for flattening water stones and setting bevels.
chefknivestogo also carries some very affordable diamond flattening stones if you're interested in a cheaper alternative.
chefknivestogo also carries some very affordable diamond flattening stones if you're interested in a cheaper alternative.
- Librarian
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Re: Community Sharpening Journal
This is not a good idea. This will cause premature wear of the diamond insert. Either level stones or sharpen knives.WilliamMunny wrote: ↑Tue Oct 25, 2022 5:06 amFigure if you had a nice big surface to set an edge and to flatten whetstones it’s a win win.
It is better to use either very cheap diamond plates for this, or to level the surface of the stone on glass with silicon carbide powders.
Soft water stones such as king can be leveled on their own slurry which will exude from the stone.
You can renew the surface of the stone during work simply with a piece of ceramics, for example.
- WilliamMunny
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Can you level a King water stones with glass and wet/dry sandpaper? I use that when I am doing furniture building, but obviously to flatten small pieces of wood.Librarian wrote: ↑Tue Oct 25, 2022 7:30 amThis is not a good idea. This will cause premature wear of the diamond insert. Either level stones or sharpen knives.WilliamMunny wrote: ↑Tue Oct 25, 2022 5:06 amFigure if you had a nice big surface to set an edge and to flatten whetstones it’s a win win.
It is better to use either very cheap diamond plates for this, or to level the surface of the stone on glass with silicon carbide powders.
Soft water stones such as king can be leveled on their own slurry which will exude from the stone.
You can renew the surface of the stone during work simply with a piece of ceramics, for example.
Endura AUS-8, Manix 2 S30V, Alcyone BD1N, PM2 Micarta Cruwear, Native 5 Maxamet (2nd), Para 3 Maxamet (2nd), Magnacut Mule, Z-Wear Mule, BBB 15V Manix 2, REC PM3 10V Satin, Dragonfly Salt 2, GB2 M4.
- Librarian
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Re: Community Sharpening Journal
If you are so comfortable, then why not?WilliamMunny wrote: ↑Tue Oct 25, 2022 7:36 amCan you level a King water stones with glass and wet/dry sandpaper? I use that when I am doing furniture building, but obviously to flatten small pieces of wood.
I just don't think this stone needs sandpaper, it's a soft stone and an abrasive that comes off the stone easily can be used to smooth the stone.
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Do you do the diamond and medium at 15 and the fine at 20?vivi wrote: ↑Mon Oct 24, 2022 4:59 pmeveryone here needs to try one of these. 1mm stock, extremely thin bte, steel takes a razor edge effortlessly. folks out there cutting up food with your 3-4mm thick folders, you're missing out.
I've got a few of these scattered around the house and my restaurant. This one I did a few strokes on the diamond rods at 15 degrees, then medium then fine at 20 degrees. The steel is kind of soft so I use 20 instead of 15 with this brand to help avoid having the edge roll.
Crazy high performance for $5. Really shows off how much geometry matters.
--Pete
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Nope, set the edge at 15 withh diamonds, then refine at 20 with the ceramics. The whole process only took about five minutes. polishing full bevels is a waste of time IMO, only the apex needs polished for good push cutting.
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I have a serrated Police (VG10) coming. I'm probably going to get a sharpmaker to upkeep it. Should I get diamond or CBN rods to go with it? Does one last longer than the other? It's too costly to get both here.
My current other Spyderco's have K390, M4, S30V. Thanks.
My current other Spyderco's have K390, M4, S30V. Thanks.
Andrew
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Don't need diamonds / cbn to maintain SE, only to reprofile or repair chips. Stock sharpmaker is all you need to maintain serrated edges.
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Re: Community Sharpening Journal
VG10 is fine to sharpen without diamonds or CBN.
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Thank you.JRinFL wrote:VG10 is fine to sharpen without diamonds or CBN.
Andrew
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Just a quick edge I put on my rex45 pm2. I dulled the edge mostly cutting up some old carpet. Put a 400 grit edge with my sharp pebble silicon carbide stone. The edge is cutting papertowel quite effortlessly right now. Rex45 is probably my favorite steel of all time. Just a real joy to sharpen.
"Nothing is built on stone; all is built on sand, but we must build as if the sand were stone."