Community Sharpening Journal

[ThomC]

Welp, I did it. I finally put my PM2 to the stone yesterday, after some idiot I lent it to used it to cut something and managed to slip and bump the blade into furniture.
So, lo and behold, a dent in my blade. Three weeks in.
Since I haven't received my DMT yet, and I purchased one a month ago, I broke out the Worksharp Field sharpener instead of the Spydie medium I usually use for the rest of my knives.
As my angle consistency isn't quite there yet, I was happy to have the guides on the WGS.
Went 20 passes on the coarse diamond plus a couple on the strop to check for a burr, did that twice. That took care of the dent but it was a little too toothy for my taste : the edge looked like it had micro serrations on it.
Followed up with 10 passes on the fine (I guess) diamond plate of the Worksharp, which made the edge a little less aggressive but more even.
Finished with a few passes on the medium stone, and it was all better. Sure was longer than any other steel I have, but for my first S30V I was pleasantly surprised with the result and the overall ease of the process.
The only issue I have is that I can't quite get up to the choil when I sharpen, which leaves that area a bit rougher than the rest. Upon cutting paper, it turns it into small curly ribbons.

Here's the end result !


And here are the cuts. Rightmost one is the edge itself, and on the left it what the millimiter close to choil does.


I expect my process to become easier once I get an easier and wider surface to work with.

[geronm042]

Decided that the factory edge was really not doing justice to my sheepfoot Caribbean and put a new edge at 17 dps.

Went with my edgepro from 220 up to 1000 grit and then a few pass on my leather strop.

Extremely fast process with such an easy blade profile. That thing is so easy to sharpen and takes a screaming sharp edge, splitting hairs literally. What a beautiful steel.

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

I'm new to sharpening and I need some advice on sharpening my PM2 (S35vn). I use a KME with the diamond stones, followed by lapping films and leather strops. My question has to do with that characteristic bit of unsharpened material at the heel of the edge at the ricasso. Some people grind that out so that the cutting edge extends all the way down. I did this to another PM2 and an Endura. It worked but I'm not skilled enough to make it pretty. I don't want to muck this one up, so I'd rather avoid that approach. However, my concern is that my KME stones won't stay flat against the edge when they hit that little bump. I know most of you guys are free handers, but I'm not on your level (yet). Anyone have any suggestions, apart from just being careful?

Thanks

I have no idea why spyderco does not remove that it is present on so many models to a greater or lesser degree.

I assume it is to cut down on belt wear. Like yourself I try to get in there as close as possible even modified my Wicked edge pro paddles to fit in snug.

You are going to have a hard time taking that down with those little stones. And a hard time not digging into the blade trying to hold the stones to the high point to work them down.

It is allot more material than one might think and tools such as yours are not ideal for re-grinding they are more for very limited contact at the apex of the blade very little surface area to remove there by comparison plus you are going to wear out your stones this way.

If you really want to get rid of it you probably need a belt grinder like on the Ken onion with grinder attachments.

For a few knives it should be more than adequate. Just remember to keep a bucket of water nearby to keep things cool wear a respirator and eye protection.

[vivi]

I had a few knives I worked on yesterday. Police LW, an Opinel, Manix XL and a Queen stockman.

They had all been sharpened on my medium stone, and I wasn't happy with their slicing ability.

Dropped them all down to a DMT XC finish, and now I'm much happier.

I also added a new sharpness test to my routine.

In addition to checking for shaving sharpness and slicing receipt paper to make sure the entire edge is cleanly apexed, I've started slicing jute twine as well. I make a loop and try to slice it with an incredibly light draw cut.

I try to avoid pushing the blade through the cut and let the micro-serrations grab the material.

It's a pretty eye opening test comparing a sharp SE, and sharp extra coarse edged PE, and a sharp PE finished on the fine sharpmaker stones. All three will slice the rope, but the way the cut feels is completely different.



Does anyone else like to test for slicing aggression? What test do you use?

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

I had a few knives I worked on yesterday. Police LW, an Opinel, Manix XL and a Queen stockman.

They had all been sharpened on my medium stone, and I wasn't happy with their slicing ability.

Dropped them all down to a DMT XC finish, and now I'm much happier.

I also added a new sharpness test to my routine.

In addition to checking for shaving sharpness and slicing receipt paper to make sure the entire edge is cleanly apexed, I've started slicing jute twine as well. I make a loop and try to slice it with an incredibly light draw cut.

I try to avoid pushing the blade through the cut and let the micro-serrations grab the material.

It's a pretty eye opening test comparing a sharp SE, and sharp extra coarse edged PE, and a sharp PE finished on the fine sharpmaker stones. All three will slice the rope, but the way the cut feels is completely different.



Does anyone else like to test for slicing aggression? What test do you use?

I start with magazine paper usually then move on to receipt paper then telephone book paper. As for slicing aggressiveness I like to use para-cord as a test and plastic bottles. When I get through para-cord with light pressure and no sliding that is a good indication.

Did you ever pick up your continuous diamond stone from DMT or have you changed your mind and sticking with the polka dot stones they seem to give excellent results.

EDIT: Lol and funny that you post with the Manix XL I am carrying that same knife today.

[vivi]

I've been putting it off because I want to pick out a new strop to go with my new DMT. May end up with two new DMT's too....XXC like I used to have for reprofiling, and C for finishing edges.

Lately I've been stropping between sharpenings instead of using my medium Spyderco stone, and it gives me better results. Never been a huge fan of stropping but I like it for these edges because the microserrations don't get ground off as fast as they do on the medium stone.

Whenever I decide which strop to try out, I'll be getting those DMT's.

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

I am glad you brought this up I have a Green Chromium Oxide Strop they sell At knives Plus they sell it preloaded and it is of very good quality and size.

https://www.knivesplus.com/KP-STROP8-STROPBLOCK.html

I also just discovered Sean / Big Brown Bear AKA Deadboxhero is selling a premium strop here and have to admit I am seriously considering it. https://www.triplebhandmade.com/shop/co ... uice-ps5zh

EDIT: It is a bit pricey with the 1 Micron Spray and shipping comes to $110.00. Still considering buying it if nothing else than to support Sean.

[vivi]

I am glad you brought this up I have a Green Chromium Oxide Strop they sell At knives Plus they sell it preloaded and it is of very good quality and size.

https://www.knivesplus.com/KP-STROP8-STROPBLOCK.html

I also just discovered Sean / Big Brown Bear AKA Deadboxhero is selling a premium strop here and have to admit I am seriously considering it. https://www.triplebhandmade.com/shop/co ... uice-ps5zh

EDIT: It is a bit pricey with the 1 Micron Spray and shipping comes to $110.00. Still considering buying it if nothing else than to support Sean.

I'm still on my first strop. I made it a long time ago, thin strip of leather glued to a wood block. Been using green chromium oxide compound the entire time. I think I have $15 invested in it :D

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

Oh okay I thought when you wrote whenever you decide which strop to try out that you were in the market for some strops.

[vivi]

I'm planning to buy a new one and try out a new compound to go with my new DMT's. Maybe some kind of diamond compound.

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

I have diamond compounds paste that I purchased years ago with my wicked edge pro 3 as follows: 15, 14, 10, 5, 3.5, 1.0, .5 Micron

They have been used on Balsa wood and they do work better than Green Chromium Oxide mostly I think because they are larger Micron sizes and when you are getting into the green it is more of a polish job. Once you get beneath 3.5 Micron in diamond paste it is really about mirror finishes.

For your use though I think you want a coarser compound like the 5 micron or even the 10 micron Chromium Oxide is under 1 micron as I recall.

I have used the 3.5 Micron diamond paste and been okay with it but prefer 5 micron. 5 Micron leaves the edge more toothy I have not tried the 10 but might now that I am thinking of it.

[u.w.]

I had a few knives I worked on yesterday. Police LW, an Opinel, Manix XL and a Queen stockman.

They had all been sharpened on my medium stone, and I wasn't happy with their slicing ability.

Dropped them all down to a DMT XC finish, and now I'm much happier.

I also added a new sharpness test to my routine.

In addition to checking for shaving sharpness and slicing receipt paper to make sure the entire edge is cleanly apexed, I've started slicing jute twine as well. I make a loop and try to slice it with an incredibly light draw cut.

I try to avoid pushing the blade through the cut and let the micro-serrations grab the material.

It's a pretty eye opening test comparing a sharp SE, and sharp extra coarse edged PE, and a sharp PE finished on the fine sharpmaker stones. All three will slice the rope, but the way the cut feels is completely different.

Does anyone else like to test for slicing aggression? What test do you use?

For my "sharpness test" I feel the edge grind with my fingers checking for burr, then the edge proper to feel how "sticky", then see if it shaves hair left handed and right handed (another way to check for burr on one side or the other), then see if it'll effortlessly push cut (fall through) phone book paper with and against the grain. As for slicing, I haven't yet thought to test that part - though I do sharpen at 600 or lower grits (DMT).
What I'd say I see most for "slicing" after sharpening, is when I slice through portabella mushrooms (decent sized ones) that I eat in at least one meal six out of seven days a week. While not a hard or difficult material to cut, a nice sharp, low grit, properly deburred edge, is oh-so nice going through them. Grabs and cuts So Nice.

Is there a benefit to doing a "slice test" with the jute twine? Other than to see the difference in how each different finished edge grabs and cuts it?

u.w.

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

When it comes to Jute Twine with low pressure I think I know what he is going after and have to agree with him it is a good test medium.

I have created mirror edges easily with guided systems and while they will shave and drop through telephone book paper they would not slice something like Jute Twine as well which is pretty organic and not over the top like synthetics so makes a good material to represent a wide variety of things we will encounter with our blades.

I just happen to have allot of para-cord so it is what I use, need to pick up some twine now. :) thanks Vivi

[vivi]

I had a few knives I worked on yesterday. Police LW, an Opinel, Manix XL and a Queen stockman.

They had all been sharpened on my medium stone, and I wasn't happy with their slicing ability.

Dropped them all down to a DMT XC finish, and now I'm much happier.

I also added a new sharpness test to my routine.

In addition to checking for shaving sharpness and slicing receipt paper to make sure the entire edge is cleanly apexed, I've started slicing jute twine as well. I make a loop and try to slice it with an incredibly light draw cut.

I try to avoid pushing the blade through the cut and let the micro-serrations grab the material.

It's a pretty eye opening test comparing a sharp SE, and sharp extra coarse edged PE, and a sharp PE finished on the fine sharpmaker stones. All three will slice the rope, but the way the cut feels is completely different.

Does anyone else like to test for slicing aggression? What test do you use?

For my "sharpness test" I feel the edge grind with my fingers checking for burr, then the edge proper to feel how "sticky", then see if it shaves hair left handed and right handed (another way to check for burr on one side or the other), then see if it'll effortlessly push cut (fall through) phone book paper with and against the grain. As for slicing, I haven't yet thought to test that part - though I do sharpen at 600 or lower grits (DMT).
What I'd say I see most for "slicing" after sharpening, is when I slice through portabella mushrooms (decent sized ones) that I eat in at least one meal six out of seven days a week. While not a hard or difficult material to cut, a nice sharp, low grit, properly deburred edge, is oh-so nice going through them. Grabs and cuts So Nice.

Is there a benefit to doing a "slice test" with the jute twine? Other than to see the difference in how each different finished edge grabs and cuts it?

u.w.

The test is to make sure I have the edge the way I want it. Often times I'll set an edge on my DMT XC then do touch ups on a spyderco medium stone, and after a few touch-ups the slicing aggression is lacking.

I'm a big fan of serrated spydercos, and going with the coarser, toothy finish was partially an attempt to get a plain edge slicing more aggressively like the SE.

As I mentioned a few posts back I've been getting away from my medium stone and stropping in place of it. This disturbs the micro serrations less while still refreshing the edge a bit.

When it comes to Jute Twine with low pressure I think I know what he is going after and have to agree with him it is a good test medium.

I have created mirror edges easily with guided systems and while they will shave and drop through telephone book paper they would not slice something like Jute Twine as well which is pretty organic and not over the top like synthetics so makes a good material to represent a wide variety of things we will encounter with our blades.

I just happen to have allot of para-cord so it is what I use, need to pick up some twine now. :) thanks Vivi

Twine is nice because its really cheap and its a good thing to have while hiking and camping. I save the sliced up pieces to use as fire starters. Paracord works good for this test too.

[vivi]

https://www.worksharptools.com/product/ ... sharpener/

I was looking at one of these in a store and it seemed like it could be a good value. 400 grit diamond plates, 800 grit diamond plates, two ceramic plates and a round ceramic rod for $50.

It looks like it's possible to lay the stones flat and use the system like a benchstone.

Saw one in a local store and was tempted.

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

https://www.worksharptools.com/product/ ... sharpener/

I was looking at one of these in a store and it seemed like it could be a good value. 400 grit diamond plates, 800 grit diamond plates, two ceramic plates and a round ceramic rod for $50.

It looks like it's possible to lay the stones flat and use the system like a benchstone.

Saw one in a local store and was tempted.

I would avoid this the rods do not lock in place they remain free to rotate their are some Amazon reviews to this effect.

[vivi]

https://www.worksharptools.com/product/ ... sharpener/

I was looking at one of these in a store and it seemed like it could be a good value. 400 grit diamond plates, 800 grit diamond plates, two ceramic plates and a round ceramic rod for $50.

It looks like it's possible to lay the stones flat and use the system like a benchstone.

Saw one in a local store and was tempted.

I would avoid this the rods do not lock in place they remain free to rotate their are some Amazon reviews to this effect.

Thanks for letting me know.

[PStone]

https://www.worksharptools.com/product/ ... sharpener/

I was looking at one of these in a store and it seemed like it could be a good value. 400 grit diamond plates, 800 grit diamond plates, two ceramic plates and a round ceramic rod for $50.

It looks like it's possible to lay the stones flat and use the system like a benchstone.

Saw one in a local store and was tempted.

I would avoid this the rods do not lock in place they remain free to rotate their are some Amazon reviews to this effect.

Thanks for letting me know.

I think they are designed that way. This is from their description on their webpage:

“The Angle Set Tri-Brasive Rods were designed to rotate 360 degrees so you aren’t locked in (pun intended) to a single position of approach for sharpening. It allows for moving quickly between abrasive surfaces and creating perfectly comfortable ergonomics when sharpening. Adjust one side in a little, and the other out – make it most comfortable for you knowing it won’t affect the sharpening angle.”

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

Sorry I read this and think backfill for a missed design feature, if you are going for fixed angle system then by goodness please fix your bloody angle!!

Sharpmaker still owns this space, this thing a great idea yes but lock your position otherwise???

Really who looked at this and thought wow great? some dork in a suit at a aboard meeting that never sharpened a knife?

Who was the person who never sharpened a knife and said Hey let’s develop this and market this?

Seriously WOW! All I have to say is the idea starts off good but is an epic fail.

Back to the drawing board and you better ask the ones who approved this what part of a fixed sharpening system escapes the basics of fixed how dare you rip us knife folks off for a system allowing for random rotation.

C’mon this is not good.

[Pelagic]

Whenever I test a knife's sharpness, I simply thumb the edge one handed and test on hair. The hair test reveals true sharpness, and I can tell how aggressive the edge will be for slicing simply by pressing my thumb into the apex lightly and moving my thumb away laterally. I have never come close to cutting myself in 25 years and this tells me all I need to know.

Unfortunately I haven't sharpened many knives lately. With my current job position knives don't get used nearly as much and stay sharp for long periods of time. I have coworkers in awe at how sharp my knives are and often ask me to sharpen theirs, but it's been a while since someone remembered to bring me a knife to sharpen. I'm still sporting the factory edge on my Maxamet pm2, which I have been carrying for about 2 weeks. It's still very sharp.