Just the brown SM flats

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BLUETYPEII
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Re: Just the brown SM flats

#81

Post by BLUETYPEII »

TkoK83Spy wrote:
Mon Aug 19, 2019 11:24 am
I've never used the diamond rods, but I've reprofiled 3 knives now with the CBN rods. 3 different steels (8cr13mov, S30V, M390) It takes some time, definitely not a sit down and do it in one session, but it can definitely be done with a bit of patience and free time. Using pretty light pressure, my stones still have plenty of grit left after reprofiling these 3 knives on the 30 degree settings.

But...seeing as you have 13 knives and want to reprofile ALL of them, maybe one of the guided systems would be better for you? They cost more, but you would save A TON of time, and have all sorts of options of stones, angles at your disposal as well. Just another thought.
Yes Reprofiling 13 knives will take quite some time using just the Sharpmaker but, I’m just going to start with one, my Native Salt. I’ll see how long it takes and if I like it at 30° inclusive better than 40° inclusive; before I go ahead and start doing this to all of my knives.
40 Spyderco knives in 11 different steels,
1 Byrd and 30 “others”
vivi
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Re: Just the brown SM flats

#82

Post by vivi »

There seems to be confusion on micro bevels.

Let's use a Native Salt as a hypothetical example.

Let's say you want a 15 degree per side (30 inclusive) edge on the Native Salt. You want a polished apex but don't feel like taking the time to polish the entire bevel.

Here's are the steps I'd take, assuming all I own is a sharpmaker and nothing else.

First, I'll setup my sharpmaker with the diamond rods in the 30 degree slots. I will stick to using flats for the entire process, never using the corners at all.

I will grind one side until the factory bevel is gone and there is a bur being raised on the opposite side.

I will repeat this process on the other side.

From this point on, I will never intentionally raise a burr, period.

I will now do one stroke per side on the diamond rods at 15 degrees. I will repeat this using feather light strokes until I cannot see or feel a burr and the knife cleanly slices phone book paper along the full cutting edge.

Only once the knife is sharp and the bevel is fully set will I change stones.

I will now setup the brown medium rods in the 40 degree slot. I will do one stroke per side, trying to avoid raising a burr by using a feather light touch. I will only do 3-4 strokes per side, max.

Now I setup my white fine rods at 40 degrees. Again I use a feather light touch and try to avoid raising a burr. I will only do up to five strokes per side.

There is no such thing as a microbevel that takes ten minutes to grind into an edge. That is a double bevel edge. Microbevels are no bigger than a burr. If you take a pencil and draw a line on a piece of paper, that line is wider than a microbevel. Microbevels are, well....micro.
:unicorn
mpgtsm
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Re: Just the brown SM flats

#83

Post by mpgtsm »

Regarding the post above, would it be bad, or a waste of time, to use the med rods at 30 degrees and then go to 40?
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Wartstein
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Re: Just the brown SM flats

#84

Post by Wartstein »

mpgtsm wrote:
Wed Feb 26, 2020 8:59 am
Regarding the post above, would it be bad, or a waste of time, to use the med rods at 30 degrees and then go to 40?
Regarding the post above yours: He is talking about actually reprofiling the knife to 30 incl. starting from a less acute angle, or at least get rid of the factory grind, and when your´re there, set a microbevel at 40 degress incl.

In that scenario using the brown / med rods for reprofiling would not be "bad", as in detrimental, it would absolutely work out eventually. BUT: It certainly WOULD be a "waste of time" if you had diamond or CBN rods. Both could do the job a lot faster.
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
mpgtsm
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Re: Just the brown SM flats

#85

Post by mpgtsm »

Wartstein wrote:
Wed Feb 26, 2020 9:09 am

Regarding the post above yours: He is talking about actually reprofiling the knife to 30 incl. starting from a less acute angle, or at least get rid of the factory grind, and when your´re there, set a microbevel at 40 degress incl.

In that scenario using the brown / med rods for reprofiling would not be "bad", as in detrimental, it would absolutely work out eventually. BUT: It certainly WOULD be a "waste of time" if you had diamond or CBN rods. Both could do the job a lot faster.
I meant after 30 degrees on the CBN, Go 30 on the med to smooth it some. Probably not necessary.
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Wartstein
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Re: Just the brown SM flats

#86

Post by Wartstein »

mpgtsm wrote:
Wed Feb 26, 2020 11:41 am
Wartstein wrote:
Wed Feb 26, 2020 9:09 am

Regarding the post above yours: He is talking about actually reprofiling the knife to 30 incl. starting from a less acute angle, or at least get rid of the factory grind, and when your´re there, set a microbevel at 40 degress incl.

In that scenario using the brown / med rods for reprofiling would not be "bad", as in detrimental, it would absolutely work out eventually. BUT: It certainly WOULD be a "waste of time" if you had diamond or CBN rods. Both could do the job a lot faster.
I meant after 30 degrees on the CBN, Go 30 on the med to smooth it some. Probably not necessary.

Ok, I got you wrong then... :o

/ Don know the answer to your question (others will). Whenever I reprofiled to 30 degrees, I did NOT apply a 40 degree microbevel afterwards but kept the apex at 30, and in THAT case of course went from the CBN to the brownrods on the 30 degree setting when reprofiling was finished..
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
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