Spyderco Forums

PM2. I'm trying to completely disassemble because I have some new scales arriving tomorrow. I hear it was a pita so I started a day early. I really dont want to scratch or distort the tube so I would love to know the best way to remove it. Currently the knife is disassembled except for 1 liner sandwiched between the tube and G10. I haven't found a video that has helped too much. Thanks

I stick the handle of a toothbrush in between the liners to pop the lanyard tube out. It has always worked for me.

Plastic/nylon prybar after wiggling the G10 around the lanyard tube a little. I have even used a plastic putty knife. It just takes a bit of time.

There are a number of useful videos on YouTube that go into better depth than I ever could. However, the real pits is getting the tube back in place. I use those light Irwin clamps to carefully put pressure on it.
Makes me wonder about those flytanium replacements...gonna have to pick one up.
May the Schwartz be with you

Whatever you do, don’t try spinning the liner separate from the scale. It will tear up the inside of the g10 around the nesting for the liner. And resist all urges to use pliers to grab the tube. SG88’s toothbrush method has worked for me. Just be careful not to bend the liner. A little shot of wd40 around the tube never hurts either.

I use my multitool pliers with the jaws wrapped in a towel so it doesn't chew up the tube, and gently twist the tube as you pull on the scale.

I have something you could try. It just worked for a Military with a stubborn tube. Granted it doesn’t have a liner, but I think this could work for a pm2. I just don’t have one with a tube that hasn’t been pulled before. Anyways, get some qtips, and start putting them through the tube. I used 4, but ymmv, if it even works.


Make sure they are lined up evenly, and pull them all back through at the same time, so they all wedge into the tube.


That will give you something to hold onto so you can start to wiggle back and forth as you start pulling.


Hopefully the qtips have wedged tight enough and push the tube through like this.


Again, I know this a different model, but what could it hurt to try? I wish I had a factory fresh tube to try this with. But let me know if you try and it does work. And if you’re skeptical I understand. But know that I once pulled a tube from a manix 2 with just some string :D :spyder:

I've not removed a lanyard tube but I'd be inclined to use a bit of suede, rubber or similar to wrap around the tube in order to protect it from marring and chuck it in a battery drill. Perhaps add a little lubricant like Ballistol to G10 scales and screw it out slowly with care at very low revs (?). :)

To get the tube back in, I chuck my lanyard tube in my drill press and used a small mill file to straighten the flared ends of the tube. Worked great! Then I bought a blue ti tube from xxxadrenalinxxx on eBay. Smaller hole in tube, more visible blue! Shipping from Aus took a bit but I was happy with the product.

I keep saying I'm going to make punch that fits inside the tube and has a shoulder on it to catch the od so you can push it out. I haven't had to take one apart lately so I guess I forgot. Time to fire up the CAD software and 3D printer.

I'm confused...if your just swapping scales, why did you totally dissemble the knife?? I just swapped scales on my Manix earlier tonight, first scale swap ever and it took about 15 minutes.

I did one side at a time, removing all the screws and then prying the scale off the lanyard, install new scale, tighten up and switch to the other side. No need to remove the liners or the lanyard tube itself. Sounds like a lot more work than necessary :confused:

TkoK83Spy wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 05, 2019 9:01 pm

I'm confused...if your just swapping scales, why did you totally dissemble the knife?? I just swapped scales on my Manix earlier tonight, first scale swap ever and it took about 15 minutes.

I did one side at a time, removing all the screws and then prying the scale off the lanyard, install new scale, tighten up and switch to the other side. No need to remove the liners or the lanyard tube itself. Sounds like a lot more work than necessary :confused:

Manix liners aren't nested into the G10, so you can spin the scales independently of the liners, plus the liners are stout enough to pry against without any danger of damage...

How about popping it in the freezer for a while? The metal may contract sufficiently to be a looser fit.

Might also work for rebuilding.

awa54 wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 05, 2019 11:12 pm

TkoK83Spy wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 05, 2019 9:01 pm

I'm confused...if your just swapping scales, why did you totally dissemble the knife?? I just swapped scales on my Manix earlier tonight, first scale swap ever and it took about 15 minutes.

I did one side at a time, removing all the screws and then prying the scale off the lanyard, install new scale, tighten up and switch to the other side. No need to remove the liners or the lanyard tube itself. Sounds like a lot more work than necessary :confused:

Manix liners aren't nested into the G10, so you can spin the scales independently of the liners, plus the liners are stout enough to pry against without any danger of damage...

Ohhh, I wasn't aware of that. Thanks for the heads up! As I was doing it and thinking to myself "this scale swapping stuff is easy, I'm surprised more people don't do it" I guess I'll have to give it a little more thought with some Para 3 swaps that crossed my mind haha.

I posted the below on a different thread. That said, my newest PM2, KW 204P, the tube came out without needing to do any of this. Not sure if Spyderco changed something?




Lanyard tube - you should be able to remove one side without any issue, gently prying them apart, or even pulling them apart. Hold both sides close to the tube and wiggle them apart.

Once you have one side off, place the other side, lanyard tube down, between an opening like partially opened jaws of a vise. Or two pieces of wood. Then use a socket (my Craftsman 4mm fits perfect) and hammer to tap out the tube. Make sure everything is squared off, and the tube should come out easy. If you don't have a socket, you can use a screw or a nail with the right sized head, and tap it out.

For easier reassembly and future ease of removal, you can sand down the tube ends. Place the tube into a drill chuck, and hold the other side with 400 grit sandpaper. Spin it. Repeat on the other side. Once sanded down, the tube will be a lot easier to reinstall and remove.

Over the years, I have been doing this to my many PM2s and couple of Para 3s. No damage or any issues at all.

Seriously they should change the official parts name to the bastard lanyard tube

I just stick a pen or dowel in it and pry away until it comes out.

I wish they weren’t flared. My Para2 S110V wasn’t flared and many of my Taichung folders aren’t flared. I took the lanyard tube out of my k2 and put it in the box because it rattled so much. Maybe that is why they are flared? The one in my S110V Para2 didn’t rattle though. :confused:

Stew wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 06, 2019 12:00 am

How about popping it in the freezer for a while? The metal may contract sufficiently to be a looser fit.

Might also work for rebuilding.

Exactly what I did to swap out smooth scales on a Cruwear PM2. Disassembled as far as I could removing the blade froze over night used a wooden dowel held the scales in my hand pinching them closed and ran the dowel towards the tube popped off surprisingly easy.

Reassembly with new textured G-10 required Stanley padded vice and attention to centering, turned out great.

Hi Raven,

Welcome to our forum. Hope the locals were able to help you out.

sal

Evil D wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 05, 2019 8:23 am

I use my multitool pliers with the jaws wrapped in a towel so it doesn't chew up the tube, and gently twist the tube as you pull on the scale.

I do the same.