Do you prefer Plain edge, Serrated edge, or both?

[Evil D]

PS blade = best of both worlds

PS = Properly Serrated

[Cambertree]

I voted plain edge, as I prefer that high level sharpness straight off the strop and stone. Using my knives for work, I usually do some touch up honing or stropping at the end of each day, whatever the blade steel is. So long 'working edge' retention is kinda just a theoretical advantage to me.

I like how serrations behave in certain situations, but when they start to wear a little over the course of the day, I find it's usually a small portion of the edge which rolls, or flattens and then causes hangups in the cut. I don't really like that temporary hangup feeling of worn SE in the cut. As I think Evil D might have said before, often your best bet regarding SE technique is to cut vigorously. It's good advice, but I guess my personal preference is for precise, gliding PE cuts.

I like how the Team SE :D here have opened my eyes to a blade configuration I wouldn't otherwise have tried. Properly sharpened SE is an amazing cutter. I often use a backup SE, and out in the garden I probably prefer SE, but it's still a more specialised blade type I'm glad to have in the toolbox, rather than an all round EDC.

[SpyderEdgeForever]

I have an important question on this very topic: When it comes to hard use such as batoning and other bushcraft type cutting uses, would a serrated blade be weaker because of the serrations acting as stress points, or not? In other words, would you use a serrated-edge blade for batoning or not?

[Cambertree]

I have an important question on this very topic: When it comes to hard use such as batoning and other bushcraft type cutting uses, would a serrated blade be weaker because of the serrations acting as stress points, or not? In other words, would you use a serrated-edge blade for batoning or not?

It depends on the knife the SE is in, I suppose, but to answer your question, no I haven't done it, and don't intend to do it.

Oh I'm sure a SE blade could handle the task in a pinch, but why take a blade type which is designed to shine in a particular application (draw cuts, and to a lesser extent push cuts) and use it in a way that doesn't play to its strengths?

If I only had a SE blade in that situation, I guess I'd just use it to make a more appropriate tool to the task at hand, like a couple of wooden splitting wedges and a mallet.

[The Mastiff]

I haven't carried one of my serrated spydercos in years.

[vivi]

I have an important question on this very topic: When it comes to hard use such as batoning and other bushcraft type cutting uses, would a serrated blade be weaker because of the serrations acting as stress points, or not? In other words, would you use a serrated-edge blade for batoning or not?

Serrated edges are weaker because they are ground much thinner. My Pacific Salt is ground at 15 degrees on one side, not ground on the back. In comparison my plain edged ones were ground at about 20 degrees per side - over twice as thick.

That being said I've batoned small stuff with my Pacific Salts, and I've batoned big stuff with combo edged rat 7's and 9's in 1095. Never had an issue.

I did, however, chip a 154cm CE Manix 2 slicing through some thick plastic, so the steel used definitely makes a difference.

I routinely chop through foliage with my serrated Pacific Salt and it handles it just fine.

I plan on buying a SE Aqua Salt this fall, and when I do, it'll certainly get batoned withiut second thought.

[vvdkvv]

I've never had a SE. They look a little bit aggressive where I live :-)
I voted plain edge.

[Evil D]

The video I posted cutting stuff with that Caribbean...I was shocked to find the edge had chipped in several places after doing only the cutting you see in that video. I'm blaming it on the factory edge, since I haven't had that issue with my other well sharpened Caribbean.

[PeaceInOurTime]

I've already posted here stating my preference is PE and also carry SE. It's not very often that I need SE, but sometimes it really makes certain tasks easier. I really like my SE Byrd Rescue 2, but so far, I haven't needed a long SE blade.

I would love to see a PE larger size blade, at least 3.5", with a secondary SE Ladybug/Roadie size blade on board. Make it a wharncliffe or hawkbill and you'd have the perfect all in one knife.

[VashHash]

I usually carry both daily. Usually have 2 SE knives on me at work. I like having options. I often sharpen my PE knives pretty coarse but for some task SE is just more efficient.

[lonerider1013]

Most of my knives are plain edge. But serrations are growing on me, tho my only serrated knife right now is a combo edge native5.
Lonerider.

....Ironically it is often the knife I carry most.

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

PS blade = best of both worlds

PS = Properly Serrated

Indeed and for the sake of clarity I prefer the Combo Edge, it truly is the best of both worlds two that I own and love are a combo edge Stretch in VG-10 and a Comboe Edge MIlitary in S30V I wish the PM2 was available as a combo edge without 52100 Steel it just rusts too easy with me. S30V by the way is excellent in serrations.

Has there ever been any serrated blades in Cruwear? For that matter any DLC Cruwear? I have noticed the Coating on my Salts Titanium Nitrate I think it is called is the best for resisting the Gum from tape and labels and glue. A satin blade just collects that filthy stuff.

[Evil D]

PS blade = best of both worlds

PS = Properly Serrated

Indeed and for the sake of clarity I prefer the Combo Edge, it truly is the best of both worlds two that I own and love are a combo edge Stretch in VG-10 and a Comboe Edge MIlitary in S30V I wish the PM2 was available as a combo edge without 52100 Steel it just rusts too easy with me. S30V by the way is excellent in serrations.

Has there ever been any serrated blades in Cruwear? For that matter any DLC Cruwear? I have noticed the Coating on my Salts Titanium Nitrate I think it is called is the best for resisting the Gum from tape and labels and glue. A satin blade just collects that filthy stuff.

Not that I'm aware of. The saddest part of the SE topic is how many great steels there are and wanting to try them out with serrations.

[wrdwrght]

The video I posted cutting stuff with that Caribbean...I was shocked to find the edge had chipped in several places after doing only the cutting you see in that video. I'm blaming it on the factory edge, since I haven't had that issue with my other well sharpened Caribbean.

This report gives me pause. I’m now wondering what the HRC along the LC200N’s serrations might be. We know the serrations on H1 are a work-hardened HRC68, if I remember Sal correctly. Can LC200N go this high with available heat treatments?

[Pelagic]

I don't think LC200N is capable of hardness like that. H1 is just a unique beast.

[vivi]

The video I posted cutting stuff with that Caribbean...I was shocked to find the edge had chipped in several places after doing only the cutting you see in that video. I'm blaming it on the factory edge, since I haven't had that issue with my other well sharpened Caribbean.

This report gives me pause. I’m now wondering what the HRC along the LC200N’s serrations might be. We know the serrations on H1 are a work-hardened HRC68, if I remember Sal correctly. Can LC200N go this high with available heat treatments?

As far as I'm aware, Sal has never mentioned using different RC's intentionally when it comes to PE vs SE in the same model. What happens with H1 from what I've read is a by product of the process of grinding serrations. I'd imagine LC200N doesn't do this or we'd have heard about it by now.

[wrdwrght]

The video I posted cutting stuff with that Caribbean...I was shocked to find the edge had chipped in several places after doing only the cutting you see in that video. I'm blaming it on the factory edge, since I haven't had that issue with my other well sharpened Caribbean.

This report gives me pause. I’m now wondering what the HRC along the LC200N’s serrations might be. We know the serrations on H1 are a work-hardened HRC68, if I remember Sal correctly. Can LC200N go this high with available heat treatments?

As far as I'm aware, Sal has never mentioned using different RC's intentionally when it comes to PE vs SE in the same model. What happens with H1 from what I've read is a by product of the process of grinding serrations. I'd imagine LC200N doesn't do this or we'd have heard about it by now.

My suspicion, too.

H1 has amazing properties. And not to belittle LC200N in any way, work-hardened serrations seal the deal for H1’s future at Spyderco, I would think.

[Evil D]

I'm still not convinced that work hardening can't be sharpened away over time. Nobody knows how deep the hardening goes. Hopefully it's deep enough to not wear off with use and sharpening. I understand how it happens from grinding the serrations in but I just don't see how further sharpening makes any difference. Maybe when they recondition the serrations at Golden during a spa treatment it also adds to the hardening.

[JRinFL]

I have both edges, but plain gets 90% of carry time. Spyderedge continues to vex me on sharpening and it takes much longer for me to get decent edge. However, I have two old school favorites in SE because to buy in PE would have doubled or tripled the cost, so SE does not keep me from buying something I really like.

[JRinFL]

H1 has amazing properties. And not to belittle LC200N in any way, work-hardened serrations seal the deal for H1’s future at Spyderco, I would think.

I wish I could say my experience has proven this, but I find in my use in the garden that SE H1 knives dull very quickly. More quickly than my VG-10 SE Delica edge. My LC200 Native Salt is far superior in edge holding. Again, in my use.