Best Spydie for kayaking and canoeing...

[Pelagic]

Sorry for the off topic responses, but I'll have something on topic in every post. I have a question about serrated H1. I often use my byrd in situations where edge damage is inevitable. The teeth can occasionally chip out in my byrd. I know H1 is far from chippy, but how does it handle damage (contact with steel during a draw cut/slice? Just a minor roll or bunting? Toughness is very high, but how is the strength/stability of the teeth/serrations?

I have found that serrated H-1 is great but not invincible. I've rolled the edge on my Pacific Salt quite badly a couple times, when cutting through very thick, hard plastic pallet banding. I can't say whether or not 8Cr13MoV would have done any better though; probably not.
If I had to guess, I'd bet that H-1 would be more resilient in your situation than 8Cr13MoV.

Here's an interesting thread on the subject:

viewtopic.php?t=81297

Thank you. Interesting stuff. I wonder if anyone has ever tested the HRC of a SE H1 blade near the serrations versus the spine, or if testing the serrations is even possible.

[Mick]

In freshwater I use a PM2 or Para 3, and just make sure I clean and lubricate them after every trip. Have had zero problems with rust or staining.

[BigGrove]

When we kayak, I carry an LC200N Mule. I want something in a sheath that's instantly accessible and ready to use.

[wrdwrght]

Sorry for the off topic responses, but I'll have something on topic in every post. I have a question about serrated H1. I often use my byrd in situations where edge damage is inevitable. The teeth can occasionally chip out in my byrd. I know H1 is far from chippy, but how does it handle damage (contact with steel during a draw cut/slice? Just a minor roll or bunting? Toughness is very high, but how is the strength/stability of the teeth/serrations?

I have found that serrated H-1 is great but not invincible. I've rolled the edge on my Pacific Salt quite badly a couple times, when cutting through very thick, hard plastic pallet banding. I can't say whether or not 8Cr13MoV would have done any better though; probably not.
If I had to guess, I'd bet that H-1 would be more resilient in your situation than 8Cr13MoV.

Here's an interesting thread on the subject:

viewtopic.php?t=81297

Thank you. Interesting stuff. I wonder if anyone has ever tested the HRC of a SE H1 blade near the serrations versus the spine, or if testing the serrations is even possible.

Responding in BladeForums (post #16 in https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/h1- ... ost4484958), Sal said:

“When the foundry rolls the H1, they roll to two different hardness, we end up with 58 for the blade material and considerably lower spec for the lock material. Not meaning to be disrespectful, but the two hardnesses are controlled by the rolling process.

Dick Barber, metallurgist for Crucible steels was curious as to why the H1 steel was testing so well and wanted to do metallurgical testing on the material. We sent them samples and they did their tests. In their micro hardness testing, they found the H1 was differentially hardening. Their explanation was as I described.

The were getting over 60 (64/65 as I remembber the report) at the edge of the blade, 58 at the spine and various hardness in between as they went from the spine to the edge.

The serrted edge version was higher (68 as I remember) which Mr. Barber attributed to the extra "work" (heat) required to serrate the edge over just sharpening as on the plain edge.”

So, on serrated H1 blades 58 at the spine, 68 at the serration... Magic stuff, H1. I suspect serrated VG10 and LC200N don’t have this differential.

[91bravo]

[anycal]

Was that you I saw earlier, lol

[91bravo]

Was that you I saw earlier, lol

Not unless you were on Terrapin Creek!

[Pelagic]

WOW, thank you for showing me that wrdwrght.

[atv223]

I carry my SE pacific salt or my SE Dragonfly Salt (at least I did before I lost 2 of them!). I wish they still made the Caspian. I’ve been contemplating the salt enuff, just wondering how secure the sheath is?

[C99c]

I generally carry a combo edge Endura on the water, whether swimming or boating.

[Tims]

I’m expecting the upcoming Swick 5 in LC200N to be my go to kayak blade.

-Light.
-Finger ring for secure grip over water.
-Rust resistant.
-Short wharncliffe for powerful controlled cuts
-Mount anywhere sheath with thumb pushoff for quick/easy deployment

[Enactive]

Native Salt is my main paddling knife.

[Water Bug]

Have you considered the Spyderco Snap-It Salt...?

https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/detail ... Kraton/975

...It has a snap shackle that allows you to clip the closed knife to a D-ring, carabiner, belt loop, etc., to hang in a position where you can easily get to it. If the life vest you wear while kayaking or canoeing has a D-ring on it, the Snap-It Salt can be clipped to it.

[johnjake]

I never really did white water kayaking, just "sea"-kayaking on lakes.
Honestly, like in any other fresh- (as opposed to salt-) water scenarios, I never had rust problems on VG10 blades whatsoever. I like solo canoe. So I just carried an Endura 4 or my CE Delica. Now that I have an SE Endela, I guess that will become my kayaking knife.

I also kayaking in river not in clear water so what kind of spydie i need colorful water can you explain Endura 4 features and uses....? I read about it that this is really sharp how we use in no clear waterlike river....?

[prndltech]

Was pacific salt exclusively... will be either that or Tasman or dragonfly hawkbill now.

[Wartstein]

I never really did white water kayaking, just "sea"-kayaking on lakes.
Honestly, like in any other fresh- (as opposed to salt-) water scenarios, I never had rust problems on VG10 blades whatsoever. I like solo canoe. So I just carried an Endura 4 or my CE Delica. Now that I have an SE Endela, I guess that will become my kayaking knife.

I also kayaking in river not in clear water so what kind of spydie i need colorful water can you explain Endura 4 features and uses....? I read about it that this is really sharp how we use in no clear waterlike river....?

Hi johnjake, welcome to the forum!

Firstly: In my post that you quoted there suddenly is a link to a solo canoe site (linked in the sentence "I like solocanoe"). I never wrote this, no idea how it got there, and actually I know almost nothing about solo canoeing, just do very occasionally some kayaking on lakes and rivers (no real white water)

Regardless: I am not sure if I fully understand your question. I just can say: Like every Spyderco I got the Endura indeed is "really sharp", its VG10 steel makes it easy to KEEP it sharp and its rather thin, full flat grind blade makes for a very good slicer. Also, in my experience it is easily rustproof enough in a NON (!) salty / saltwater enviroment.

If you have further or more precise questions feel free to ask!

[Brackish]

I don't kayak or canoe, but I do spend quite a bit of time on my paddleboard. When I do, I carry my Dragonfly Salt 2 IWB. I also carry it any time I'm going to the beach and/or fishing.

[Surfingringo]

Waterway and either a Salt 2 or Pacific Salt are always ready to go on my kayak.